newbie, 04 silverado, remote starter
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=103511
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 11:56 PM
Topic: newbie, 04 silverado, remote starter
Posted By: deadtired80
Subject: newbie, 04 silverado, remote starter
Date Posted: March 29, 2008 at 10:18 PM
installing a compustar remote starter (2w900fm-as brain is a cm3000-vd) in my truck 04 chevy silverado 3500 diesel 4 door. Would like someone to go over this before i wire it in. i might have missed a few things. especially on the idatalink like ground output when running,ignition,tach output,door status and panic compustar vehicle idatalink cn1/pin1 red 12v constant (+) ignition harness red wire also to 12v red on idata link cn1/pin2 GREEN / WHITE parking light drivers kick panel brown wire cn1/pin3 RED / white 12v constant/prewired relay(+) ignition harness white wire????????????? (RED / white to pin 87a&86 purple to 85 blue to 30) cn1/pin4 white accessory ignition harness orange wire cn1pin5 violet starter kill?anti grind (pin 85 on starter relay pre wired) cn1pin6 yellow starter ignition harness yellow wire (cut pin 30 on relay to motor pin 87 to ignit switch) cn1/pin7 GREEN/ red ignition ignition harness pink wire (Also pin 86 on starter relay pre wired) cn1/pin8 black ground vehicle chassis also to idatalink black ground cn2/pin1 GREEN / WHITE 250ma light out(-) bcm gray/black wire cn2/pin2 black 250ma status out(-) idatalink door status white wire(-) cn2/pin3 green 250ma ignition out(-) cn2/pin4 WHITE/ black 250ma access out(-) cn2/pin5 RED / black 250ma starter out(-) cn3/pin1 light blue em brake sensing(-) cn3/pin2 gray/black hood pin sensing(-) under hood cn3/pin3 light blue/white brake sensing(+) brake pedal white wire cn3/pin4 violet/black trunk sensing(-) cn3/pin5 RED / white door sensing(-) cn3/pin6 red door sensing(+) cn3/pin7 BROWN / black glow plug(-) cn3/pin8 BROWN / white glow plug(+) cn3/pin9 yellow/black alt/tach sensing instrument cluster white wire pina5 cn4/pin1 not used not used cn4/pin2 violet/white 250ma trunk unlock(-) cn4/pin3 ORANGE / black 250ma 2nd pulse unlock(-) cn4/pin4 blue 250ma unlock(-) idatalink unlock/disarm blue/black(-) cn4/pin5 blue/black 250ma lock(-) idatalink lock/arm GREEN/ black(-) cn4/pin6 not used not used cn5/pin1 orange rearm(-) cn5/pin2 ORANGE / white disarm(-) cn5/pin3 violet dome light super(-) cn5/pin4 brown Siren(+) cn5/pin5 white horn(-) cn5/pin6 yellow aux1(-) cn5/pin7 yellow/white aux2(-) cn5/pin8 not used future use jumper cut for auto dip 1 on for tach dip 2 off for 25 min diesel idatalink purple wire to pin 2 on obdii under dash thanks
Replies:
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 2:28 AM
Although this is a list of the correct wires to hook up. You still MUST test each wire to be sure you have the correct one. This will prevent much headache in the future, including damage to your vehicle. Here's some of the modifications I see in your list. The RED / white wire in the ignition harness needs to be connected to a 12v constant source, not the white wire you specify above. The vehicle has two red constant wires in which I use both. You will want to use the supplied relay with the purple wire hooked to the green negative ignition output and the blue wire from the relay to the vehicles white second ignition wire in the ignition harness. If you don't power up this wire, you will have warning light issues. You will also want to build a relay using the WHITE/ black accessory negative output as a trigger to power up the vehicles brown second accessory wire. For the park lights you should either use the positive output, or the negative output; but not both. The easiest to find is the negative output, but you will probably want to use a relay. I can't check the Idatalink connections as their website is down right now for maintenance. But I don't think you have the black status output on the right wire. It should be going to the ground when running wire on the Idatalink module. IIRC it is blue. For door sensing, you can use the vehicles domelight supervision wire as a trigger, but you will have to program the open zone warning for 60 seconds to give the delayed domelight time to turn off. You will want to hook up the glow plug wire to the vehicles dk. blue wait to start wire. IIRC the Idatalink module doesn't disarm the factory alarm before remote start. So you may need to run a wire hooked up to the black status output into the door to trigger the factory alarm disarm wire.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 7:24 AM
Steven is right, but I do have a few minor differences of opinion.
--Not only is Steven right that you never use BOTH parking light outputs from the remote starter, but I've also found it impossible to find the positive light wire in the kick panel.
Just use your negative parking light output to the gray/black at the BCM, and cut the Compustar's postive light output and tape it off.
--Getting to the brake wire at the pedal sucks, and there's a better way.
Reach inside the driver's-side dashboard fusebox, reach up, and you'll feel a small harness running upward. It's wrapped in gray foam instead of black tape.
Pull that down, there's plenty of slack. Brake is light blue. (It runs up to the third brake light at the top of the cab.)
If needed, I think the gray/black domelight wire is in there too.
--Starter kill/anti grind relay. Your truck already has antigrind from the factory, and the PASSLock II is a pretty good theft-deterrent system.
It's totally up to you, but if the aftermarket starter kill is not desired, you could cut this relay out.
--Brown accessory wire. I prefer to leave it unpowered, as this way, the wipers can't come on during remote start, even if the wiper switch is left on.
On the other hand, it is more correct to power up ALL of the car's circuits during remote start, and many installers prefer this. It's up to you.
--Diesel stuff. Doesn't yours have the Duramax.........um, what do they call it? Instant-Fire or something like that, right?
Basically what I'm asking is, does the wait-to-start light ever come on? I don't think it does, does it?
If you (with your key) can start the truck like it has a gas engine, then I would install the remote starter as if it had a gas engine as well.
cn5/pin5 horn output: Are you installing a siren with this system, and don't care about the horn?
The horn wire is BLACK / YELLOW, in the steering column with your ignition wires. If it were me, I'd hook it up, so there's even more noise when the alarm goes off.
--idatalink stuff: Same as Steven, I can't say without reading their website (and without knowing which module you're using), but:
iDatalink (and many other manufacturers) say "ground when running," and Compustar (and DEI) say "status"...........but those are the same thing.
That is, if I'm not mistaken, the Compustar's "status" wire puts out a ground whenever the remote starter is turned on.
This wire would be connected to the iDatalink's blue/white "ground when running" wire, UNLESS you're using that special black cable that ties the Compustar directly to the iDatalink.
If you ARE using that special cable (I think they call that "iDatalink mode?"), look at the iDatalink instructions carefully.
Out of all the wires coming out of their module, some of the wires are illustrated with a dotted line, and it says something like "only if connected in wire-to-wire mode" or something like that.
Basically, if you're using the datalink cable, the cable "carries" many signals for you, like lock, unlock, door trigger and so forth........which saves you time and makes the installation neater.
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 12:27 PM
Chris Luongo wrote:
Just use your negative parking light output to the gray/black at the BCM, and cut the Compustar's postive light output and tape it off.
I've always added a relay to the negative parking light output just in case the 200ma output wasn't enough. I know the factory wire is only 18 awg, but I prefer to be safe than sorry. So have you ever had a problem wiring it directly? I'd love to be able to wire it this way if assured there wouldn't be any problems. Chris Luongo wrote:
--Getting to the brake wire at the pedal sucks, and there's a better way.
Reach inside the driver's-side dashboard fusebox, reach up, and you'll feel a small harness running upward. It's wrapped in gray foam instead of black tape.
Pull that down, there's plenty of slack. Brake is light blue. (It runs up to the third brake light at the top of the cab.)
Thanks for that tip! Chris Luongo wrote:
--Diesel stuff. Doesn't yours have the Duramax.........um, what do they call it? Instant-Fire or something like that, right?
Basically what I'm asking is, does the wait-to-start light ever come on? I don't think it does, does it?
If you (with your key) can start the truck like it has a gas engine, then I would install the remote starter as if it had a gas engine as well.
I haven't done too many of the diesels. But IIRC the wait to start wire is almost impossible to find in that vehicle anyway. I believe I've always used a programmed delayed start in the past instead.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 1:23 PM
Just for future referance. The wait to start on this truck can be found in 2 spots. Under the underhood fuse box. It's blue in a black plug with purple guts. It's also behind the guage cluster.... same color. Negative. The tach is in the same 2 spots. White 4 cylinder reading. -------------
Posted By: deadtired80
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 6:31 PM
thanks for the help so far everyone i'm using a idatalink solo series ads-gm, have to hard wire the unit because there is no rs232 port on compustar Q1. What does idata link 2-way mode mean? my next 2 questions depend on this. Q2. door status(-)output white wire on the idatalink does this go tocn3/pin5 door sensing(-) on the compustar? Q3 tach output(ac)BLACK/ white wire does this go to cn3/pin9 alt/tach sensing on compustar so i shouldn't have to go tothe instrument cluster white wire Q4 ignition(+) input green wire on idatalink not sure were this goes on compustar(maybe cn2/pin3 on compustar) thanks again
Posted By: deadtired80
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 6:35 PM
i do have the duramax engine and its like 3 seconds for the glow plugs
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 7:30 PM
Brake wire is right there at the switch, right in the open. I think you are thinking of 92-2002 where the switch was waaaayyyy up high and hard to get to. On those ones, the brake wire is also in the column harness. Light blue.
Set your remote start for a 5 second wait to start, don't need the wait to start wire on those trucks.
Tach from iData box goes to tach on Compustar.
Door trigger output of iData box to -ve door input of Compustar
Ignition of iData box goes to ignition output of Compustar, yes.
2way mode means that the bypass will communicate with the Compustar. One cable takes care of a lot of connections.
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: deadtired80
Date Posted: March 30, 2008 at 8:39 PM
so my cn2/pin3 (-)250ma 2nd ignition output on the compustar and my ignition(+) input on my idatalink both go to my relay on pin85
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: March 31, 2008 at 2:59 AM
deadtired80 wrote:
so my cn2/pin3 (-)250ma 2nd ignition output on the compustar and my ignition(+) input on my idatalink both go to my relay on pin85
No, the Idatalink module wants a positive ignition source. You will want to connect it to the large awg green wire on the Compustar unit.
Posted By: deadtired80
Date Posted: April 09, 2008 at 1:35 AM
ok i have it installed 1st problem is remote start only works when truck is not alarmed. if it is alarmed and i press the remote start, the lights come on on the dash as if it were getting ready to start but the engine doesnt crank over. also the heated seats dont come on when its below 0 degress (i thought they were to come on automaticly) i never hooked anything up to the Brown accessory wire on the colum. everything else seems to work fine.
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: April 09, 2008 at 2:54 PM
I always wire into the negative parking lite wire- mainly because with trucks- there is a chance of a trailer being attached- and I want the vehicle to power all those extra trailer lights- not the R/S unit- so with the negative input- it tell the BCM to turn on its own lights- and all those amps are handled through the vehicle's circuits- if you wire it through the brown wire and use 12v positive- now all those amps go through your 10 amp parking light fuse or through your relay- then who gets the call when it fails--- you do--
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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: deadtired80
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 1:36 PM
still looking for some info to my last post about truck not starting with remote while in alarm set mode and heated seats not turning on when its cold
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 2:06 PM
sounds like you have your starter wire on the wrong side of your starter interrupt relay. It needs to be on the starter side, not the ignition switch side...... as far as heated seats- the truck OAT sensors has to think it is below freezing- not a real good way to test this until it gets well below freezing...... ------------- Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
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