remote start, 1994 mazda rx7

First of all, please excuse me for this questions as I beleive it was asked million of times :) But I did search and still want suggestion from pro's

I have 94 Mazda RX7 and I want to install remote start/keyless on this car. I will need trunk pop also. I think I figured all details on installation of actuators and I'm good with theory. No problem getting relays/etc working. I had bulldog remote start installed on my Civic long time ago.

This is my toy car and I do everything myself. Giving it to the pro is not an option because I won't let anybody except me to touch a car (or I have to watch) and I like to do and learn myself. Cars is my hobby. So, time spent will be ejoyable. I also have no problem installing remote start on manual car as I plan on wiring it correctly for neutral switch. I also will wire it for parking brake switch.

Ok. Now to the questions.

1. How come DIY person can't get better quality units? DEI? Or Compustar? I talked by many people and they like DEI. Reading though this forum - people like Compustar PRO. One guy that used to be installer said that Audivx Prestige is not bad cheaper alternative.

2. So far I found 2 systems I can get online and I think suit my needs. a.Audiovox Prestige APS687($65) or b. VIPER 571XV ($65)

Viper seem to be better feature-wise but size of remote worries me. It needs AAA battery! Viper 160xv is "my size" but there is none for sale. I'm looking at that price range (~$50-70) with basically start and keyless. Bigger range helps. I need reliable unit.

What do you think is good choice for me? I want higher end brand for reasonable price with smaller remote.

Thanks in advance

Good info. I will check those other brands. Remote design is important. I like something OE looking and smaller. Like that Viper I mentioned.

2-way feature seems good to me, but payback is bigger remote if I understand correctly.

Also, is there unit (no alarm) that has remote start and turbo timer?

Does Viper 571xv come with 2 different remotes? It shows so on main page but it shows 2 bigger remotes on detail page on website.

If it's got smaller remote included, what is limitation of it? I like look/feel and would get that system if they had smaller remote in box.

My RX7 (94') has "slave" door lock system. I have actuator in passenger door and none i drivers door.

When opening drivers door with a key - it mechanically shorts switch and passenger door opens.

I'm installing solenoid and will be using Viper 571 wich has wire for second unlock (progressive unlocking). If I use new solenoid I installed - it automatically shorts OE switch and passenger door unlocks via original mechanism. How can I have real progressive unlocking?

I have ideas on how to accomplish that (like disabling factory circuit while opening using remote) but I'd like to hear from people who actually did that and know all problems associated with it.

The reason for that is security and I hate to excersize passenger side mechanism when it's not needed. If it's too much work I may use that secondary output for rolling down windows or somethign.

Have bunch of questions. Please help me out here :)
It's Mazda RX7 94'

1. H1/2 (+/-) selectable light flash output.
Stupid question but how do I determine if I have + or - circuit ? How do I test it?
Where you typically look for that wire?

2. H1/3 (-) remote start activation input
What does it do? Do I need that wire? Where to connect it?

3. (-) 200mA domelight supervision output
Same question as #1. Where to look for wire and how to determine if it's + or - ?

4. H1/10 HORN (-) 200mA
Do I hook to factory relay or I need my own circuit/relay? What is typical connection for this one?

5. Purple and Red wires going to cut STARTER wire. Is it required step? I have to cut starter wire then?
Looks like this is only wire need to be cut. Correct? All other spliced?

6. RED / WHITE 12V input.
It says that if I need additional capacity to connect it. When do I need additional capacity?
Is it common to use that wire? Is it common to run separate (+) wire from battery or constant (+) from ignition plenty?

7. remote start auxiliary harness wiring diagram.
It's got 4 wires. No detail explanation included. It's got "STATUS OUTPUT", "ACCESSORY RELAY TRIGGER",
"IGNITION RELAY TRIGGER", "STARTER RELAY TRIGGER"
Do I need to hook any of that?

8. Is there any place where I would need to diode isolate?
I'm planning on placing relay to factory hood pin switch (not drilling/wiring separate one)

If you could go 1 by 1 I appreciate it. I'm sure many others will find it helpful.

Thanks!

Anyone?

RTFM confirm with a multimeter . alot of th DEI stuff requires an input /output  starter  interface since it may have a built-in start relay . if you dont have a high amp start wire , use the remote start output put wire to set off the starter relay or anything else that you want turned on during the remote start sequence. check &double check with a DMM. I'd go with seperate actuaters as well. RED / white may be necessary if your start wont turn over with just the main power input.

good luck

her's for the window

left front window      red  - green  type A

right front window    blk/wht  blac / YELLOW type A  both in driver's door

disarm

has also been known to be pale yellow and red in driver kick

Not to be annoying, but what you posted I know. So far you clearly answered only #6...

All what's in table you posted I already found. I need specific answers to #1-#5 and #7-#8

Why would you go with separate actuators? I got factory actuator in right door and it functions..

I have an idea and read manual (plus factory diagrams) many times. Thats why I posted detailed questions on where I'm confused.

Can you got one by one and answer those questions?

1. the light flash is usaully at fuse or light switch and controls the parking light flash when you press the "lock unlock buttond" usually this is positve but confirm with a DMM. to switchthe polarity of the alrm output oft his wire use the jumper or other provision IAW the manual.

2.usually a type of switch for emrgency shut doen of remote start in case brake switch malfunctions I believe . on some DEI's and all ungo's this would usually be a black and white wire about 18ga or so \9bot the one on the main harness for a different purpose) dont quote on that though. this is some times the "on/off switch wire"

3 this wire activates the interior wire via the provision in the car sometimes this conected the the door trigge. I dont think it pertains to this vehicle but its used to activate the map light when you activate remote start or open th e car.

4 no its negative trigger and should be strong enough to set off factory relay careful though your cuttting aroud the CPU or the airbag either way you go about interfacing it ( i'd go with the column)

5 should be labeled input(ignition side) and output(starterside) usually have to cut the wire as it also acts as a starter kill.

7 thse are all the outputs to different relays that control accessories or parts of the cars when the car is in remote mode( window roll dwn  ignition relay etc)

8 not on this car unless you plan on putting multiple sensors on the system for the alrm section the stater sytem shoud be solated if its the one im thinking off the top of my head.

if you haev factory power locks (many did not) just find the  negative pulse wire that sets the lock and unlock off.(you may be able to do this via the factory arm and disarm but dont quote me) I dont usually come across FD's with power locks so a factory diagram should help.

If you dont know how to test for wire polarity I suggest you read up on it before you attempt this install. again the data should be correct but better safe then sorry.

good luck

also if you have the 13bTT make sure you program the tubo timer if you dont already have one . I have an fc TT and it works great .

PS you dont need the turbo timer provision if you already have a trbo timer(greddy or the like) I have an ungo sr9000 it seems to work pretty good

Great! I think I'm all set. Just need to clarify on how to detect (-) or (+) circuit :)

I had Greddy turbo-timer which I sold in favor of this new system. Paid $70 shipped for Viper and Greddy was $50 :)

FD doors use "slave" system. I think all FD's like that. Drivers door does not have actuator and passenger door does. Passenger door automatically opens when you open driver door with a key. Driver door won't open if you open passenger door with a key. Weird, but this is what it is. People just put 1 actuator on drivers door and it trips factory switch which actuates passenger door. So, for progressive - some modifications to OEM stuff will be needed. Not additions.

For #2 from instruction:

System has valet switch push button. This is something else. Not sure what it means with all those pulses.

I also have on/off toggle switch in a package with loose wires and no mentioning where to connect it.

thats for the main activaton wire I believe its bla and white on the harness w/ the tach sense and brake switch input this is for something else it just shows that valet type switch is necessary to allow pulsaing of the ground

Yes, I got it. That on-off switch for BLACK/ white neutral switch. So, I don't need it as I will use neutral switch for that.

Do you think this input for pulsating necessary for system operation? If they didn't include button and didn't provide any more details - then maybe I don't need it? Kind of optional feature?

After reading through description of this wire again - I finally got it. Doesn't make much sense to me. I will have

1. Hood pin switch (can pull hood lever open)

2. Neutral switch

3. Brake switch.

All those should shut down car.

This button can be used as a "START" button in a car  I guess. Put key in ON position, push button and go :). The problem with it is that I like 2 pulse (default) setting for additional safety and this button work exactly as remote, so I can't start car from 1 push. So. I will just skip on it.

Results so far...

I got door solenoid and trunk pop working. Used disarm wire to disable factory alarm and everything works just fine in regards to keyless.

Few things that I would like answer:

1. I can't program this system. Basically, I can't activate programming menu. Manual says to cycle ingnition ON and then OFF. I don't have "OFF" position and I just cycle it back to the position where I can take key off(LOCK). After that I press valet button and wait. Nothing happens :( What could be the reason? How long should I push button for? I kept it pressed for like 20 seconds

I hate those automatic door lock/unlock with ignition on/off. I will cure it if I can get to programming.

2. I do like idea of horn honk but I hate how it sounds with my horn. Is there any way to make it sound like my BMW? Like "pheeew" instead of "honk". For now I may even disable it.

3. I did not connect tach wire or brake wire or hood. I only hooked up newtral switch to the ground for testing of remote start. I get some action in terms of blinking, relay clicking, fuel pump buzz but no starter! Can it be related to factory starter switch? What else? I would check error code, but again, no action from vallet switch..

4. Factory alarm. It disarms it automatically (I used disarm wire). It's very nice that Viper also sends(-) to disarm when I use trunk pop(validity channel). But if I try to close door after opening using remote (without physically opening door) - factory alarm wouldn't arm. I beleive it wants door to be opened and then closed. Then it will arm. How do I cure this situation and is it common issue?

Thanks a lot in advance!

katit] wrote:

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Results so far...

I got door solenoid and trunk pop working. Used disarm wire to disable factory alarm and everything works just fine in regards to keyless.

Few things that I would like answer:

1. I can't program this system. Basically, I can't activate programming menu. Manual says to cycle ingnition ON and then OFF. I don't have "OFF" position and I just cycle it back to the position where I can take key off(LOCK). After that I press valet button and wait. Nothing happens :( What could be the reason? How long should I push button for? I kept it pressed for like 20 seconds

I hate those automatic door lock/unlock with ignition on/off. I will cure it if I can get to programming.

2. I do like idea of horn honk but I hate how it sounds with my horn. Is there any way to make it sound like my BMW? Like "pheeew" instead of "honk". For now I may even disable it.

3. I did not connect tach wire or brake wire or hood. I only hooked up newtral switch to the ground for testing of remote start. I get some action in terms of blinking, relay clicking, fuel pump buzz but no starter! Can it be related to factory starter switch? What else? I would check error code, but again, no action from vallet switch..

4. Factory alarm. It disarms it automatically (I used disarm wire). It's very nice that Viper also sends(-) to disarm when I use trunk pop(validity channel). But if I try to close door after opening using remote (without physically opening door) - factory alarm wouldn't arm. I beleive it wants door to be opened and then closed. Then it will arm. How do I cure this situation and is it common issue?

Thanks a lot in advance!

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skee-weezy wrote:

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oh yeah.. im amazed no one mentioned code-alarm too... they are pretty easy to install too.... and oh yeah.. for those of u that may have never worked with the two recently.....CODE and AUDIOVOX are now virtually identical on most models... kinda like the viper and python brands for DEI

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code alarm is owned by audiovox. I wouldn't recomend either. Stick with dei products. They have the lifetime warrenty on them, code and audivox doesn't . I install the audiovox alarms for a while, I have at least 10 years of experince in this feild and i hate yhe audiovox remote starts with a passion. Most of the one only lasted a year tops.  I have a old viper from 1992  installed and have never touched it since then, of couse i have had to buy a new remote but thats it.  If you want range get the newer 160xvl, has a smaller remote, one mile range, it does remote start and keyless entry.  Really the two remotes aren't that big. My wife has one and has no prblems with the size of it.

mrgoetz wrote:

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Stick with dei products. They have the lifetime warrenty on them, code and audivox doesn't . I install the audiovox alarms for a while, I have at least 10 years of experince in this feild and i hate yhe audiovox remote starts with a passion. Most of the one only lasted a year tops. 

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Since I installed Viper myself - I beleive I don't have any warranty. So..