scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=103872
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 4:42 AM
Topic: scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse
Posted By: nayr747
Subject: scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 3:24 AM
Hey everyone! This is my first post but I've used this great site a couple times before. So my problem: I just installed a Scytek Galaxy 5000rs-2w (auto version) on my '99 Eclipse GSX (manual trans). I have the cluch start swith disabled, and I never leave it in gear, so I went with the auto version. Everything works fine exept about a week after installing it my car keeps dieing. Both times it has died happened after I remote started it. First time it tried to start once, failed, then was succesfull the second time. But after a minute or two of idleing it will start to drop RPMs and sputter, then die. It will not start up after dieing. Jump started it fine once, drove about 15-20 miles so the alternator would recharge the battery. No problems and remote started fine again. But after leaving it for about 2-3 hours after this drive, the same thing happened again. Wouldn't even jump start at first; Had to wait a couple seconds and try again. Also, something really wierd happened that's never happend before on the car until after jump starting it the second time: The car seemed to die-- the instrument cluster lights turned on (ABS, etc) and the RPMs dropped to zero. But right when this happened I gave it some gas to try to prevent it from dieing. Well the RPMs stayed at zero but the engine was running normal and reving as I gave it gas. I don't know if this could have anything to do with a bad connection on the tach wire from the alarm, or maybe I connected it to a wire other than the tach wire by mistake (I don't know what the wire should test as on the DMM). I haven't set up the tach learn feature yet, or the dome light delay feature. And I haven't turned off the extended parking lights or siren chirps yet. The led (which is very bright) is on constantly, so I don't know if this could be contributing at all. I soldered most connections (crimped a couple) and all the connections seemed fine. I have two ignition wires connected. I also added some extras to the alarm: A backup battery, tilt sensor, and glass break sensor. And I diode isolated the extra sensors. For the starter kill relay, I soldered a diode between the 85 and 86 poles. I made a diagram of the whole thing with all the connections, etc. So if it would help to post that, I can. My question is will a shop be able to pinpoint the problem? I am going to have them load test the battery and alternator to make sure that's not the problem. Or can I test for it myself? I have a DMM but don't know the specifics of how/what to test, and any precautions I should take when testing. Should I look for anything in particular? And yes I realize how rediculous is seems that I installed all this stuff but don't know how to test for problems. :) Any help would really be appreciated!
Replies:
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 4:58 AM
if your sure the car never had these problems before i would say it's you ignition wire on the car either has a bad connection or is incorrectly attached to the alarm( some alarms interupt the ignition wire maybe you reversed the input /output) any reputable shop should be able to trouble shoot. anything that extreme should be obious to a tech.
-------------
life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 6:26 AM
nayr747 wrote:
My question is will a shop be able to pinpoint the problem?
No shop I know of will touch this car. You should be using a system designed for a manual transmission, not an automatic transmission. Not only is this against the law it is extremely unsafe and should be removed. DEI makes an add-on piece that you could use to make it safe. ------------- Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 7:02 AM
I agree with Twelvoltz. Generally, the only thing most shops would do would be to remove everything, and start over with their own product.
We find that once we touch someone else's installation, going forward, we "own" the whole job.
A few times, I've repaired one problem for a small fee, but then a month later when something else goes wrong, the customer comes back expecting the next problem fixed for free. I learned after that.
The rules of this website don't allow us to help you do an incorrect installation on a manual-transmission car, but, as for your tach wire:
--The remote starter's tach wire only "reads," it doesn't make any sort of output. Connecting it to the wrong wire in your car might cause the remote starter not to work, but it shouldn't cause the car to die.
--However, if the tach wire was run through the firewall, or over a hot exhaust pipe, or, well.......basically anything that might accidentally short it to ground, that would make the coil, or injector, or whatever you connected to, short out as well.
Judging by what you said about the engine revving OK, but the factory tachometer not working, this is a distinct possiblitly.
I would inspect the entire length of the tach wire for any possiblity of shorting out to anything else.
Even if you don't find anything visually wrong with it, maybe disconnect it from the engine for a couple of days, drive the car around, and see if the problem goes away.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 7:49 AM
Twelvoltz wrote:
No shop I know of will touch this car. You should be using a system designed for a manual transmission, not an automatic transmission. Not only is this against the law it is extremely unsafe and should be removed. DEI makes an add-on piece that you could use to make it safe.
I completely understand what you guys are saying about the safety issue. I was hesitant about it for sure. The car does have a neutral safety wire. If anyone could tell me if I can connect that to something on the alarm so that it will only remote start if that wire shows it's in neutral that would be great. The e-brake wire is hooked up as well, so if somehow it is remote started in gear it will not move much. I actually have both the auto and manual versions of the alarm, but I chose to install the auto because you can't use both the turbo timer and remote start features of the alarm with the manual version (even with an aftermarket turbo timer).
Twelvoltz wrote:
DEI makes an add-on piece that you could use to make it safe.
Can you give me the DEI part number, or what exactly it's called?
Chris Luongo wrote:
I would inspect the entire length of the tach wire for any possiblity of shorting out to anything else.
Will do. Thanks.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 7:57 AM
Just cleaned up and tightened the battery posts. Battery tested 11.84v on the DMM (engine off, no lights on). Does that seem too low?
Well if you guys aren't allowed to give me any help then I completely understand, but I'm just trying to fix a dieing battery problem really. If you guys could give me any advice on troubleshooting electrical problems like this I'd really appreciate it. And help on making it safe/legal would be great too (other than reinstalling a new alarm).
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 10:52 AM
DEI 689M. And as for your ebrake. Your car will drag itself untill something stops it. like a kid on a bicycle, your neighbors dog, your garage door.... etc. -------------
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 11:20 AM
You may not ever leave it in gear-- but your wife, g/f, mechanic, mom, dad, whatever might--- I did my own version once- wired into e-brake, and shifter linkage mechanism- both had to be at the right spot- then and only then would it try to start- e-brake had to be fully extended and shifter had to be in neutral- no other combo would allow it to start ....and I was still nervous every time I R/S it!!!
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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 8:57 PM
Well because of what you guys said I am planning on buying that DEI thing or wiring it so that it is safe. I don't want to take it all out and do it all over again though (took about 10-15 hours). So is there any way you guys could give me any help on how to find my power drain? Like where to look, what to look for, and how to test (safely)?
KarTuneMan wrote:
DEI 689M.
And as for your ebrake. Your car will drag itself untill something stops it.
like a kid on a bicycle, your neighbors dog, your garage door.... etc.
Well won't it just stall?
brcidd wrote:
You may not ever leave it in gear-- but your wife, g/f, mechanic, mom, dad, whatever might--- I did my own version once- wired into e-brake, and shifter linkage mechanism- both had to be at the right spot- then and only then would it try to start- e-brake had to be fully extended and shifter had to be in neutral- no other combo would allow it to start ....and I was still nervous every time I R/S it!!!
Can you give me any info on how to wire it like you did? There's a neutral safety wire but I don't know how to wire it/what to connect it to on the alarm. There's no alarm wire specifically for this but I thought I might be able to connect it to another wire that the alarm needs to see before it remote starts. And how did you wire it so that the e-brake had to be fully extended? Thanks for any help!
Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 9:16 PM
if the nss wire is ground when in gear, but not in neutral than you can hook it to the hood pin input. This way if the car is in gear, the r/s will think the hood is open, not allowing it to start.
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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 10:25 PM
Well the battery is dead again today after trying to start it with the keys. I just tested the battery voltage again after sitting overnight and it's at 10.75v. It was 11.84 a few hours after turning it off last night. So it lost almost a full volt overnight. I put the DMM inline between the neg battery cable and neg post and got about 50 milliamps. From what I've read this is a very high draw. I don't know if I had the lead going to the right place on the DMM though. The neg lead went to "COM", and the pos. lead went to "VΩmA". But when I move the pos. lead to the other DMM port marked "10A DC", it read about 0.5. Both times the DMM was set to 200m Amps direct current.
Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for the remote start? I don't think there is a fuse on the alarm's remote start wiring but I could be wrong.
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 3:28 AM
as i said in my first post you should take your car to a shop and let them find what's wrong with it. it wont be cheap but depending on waht the problem is replacing vital parts of your electrical system wont be either. it might be that your battery went south on you, might try buying a new one. i hate to throw parts at a problem but from your description i cant tell you for sure what's wrong. try disconnecting your alarm all together and see if the same problems happens again. try to find a good shop that wont gouge you but be ready to buy additonal parts and pay for a full install and then some if the installer feels it's needed. the up side to this is that if something goes wrong you can take it back to that shop. ps. if you decide to change the battery make sure the car is not in gear and your hood safety switch is installled and working properly i have seen techs get ran over when reconnecting batterys in manual transmision cars with erroneously installed remote starts. ------------- life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: enice
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 6:03 AM
OK....I'm seeing a pattern here. The answer I would give you is a general answer for any aftermarket product installation. Pull the fuses on the alarm for a day or two and see if your battery still drains. If it does drain then replace the battery. It may not be able to hold the charge anymore. Even worse you may look at the alternator.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 9:58 PM
Well someone suggested I might have wired the ignition wrong. There is one ignition input and two outputs on the alarm. For the ignition input, I have it wired along with ignition output 1 to the car's main ignition wire. They are tapped in at the same location on the car's wire. Ignition output 2 is tapped into the car's second ignition wire. Is this how it should be wired?
Also, just tested the battery again and it's at 7.25v! Seems really low to me.
enice] wrote:
OK....I'm seeing a pattern here. The answer I would give you is a general answer for any aftermarket product installation. Pull the fuses on the alarm for a day or two and see if your battery still drains. If it does drain then replace the battery. It may not be able to hold the charge anymore. Even worse you may look at the alternator.
Will do. The thing is though, the battery is only about 4-5 months old. And the alternator is maybe a year old. So that is confusing me. The only thing I noticed before I installed the alarm is that after I started the car, the lights would all be more dim than normal, and they would only go to full brightness when the RPMs got up to exactly 3,000rpm.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 12, 2008 at 11:09 AM
I have a few more comments.
--I don't know what the moderator of this site will say, if he will lock this post or not...........but if your car truly does have a neutral safety wire, then it should be perfectly safe to install an automatic-transmission remote starter, as long as the safety features are connected correctly.
What neutral safety wire is this? Where did you find it? How does it rest (positive or ground?) when the car is in neutral?
--Did you add any extra relays to your installation, for extra features? (Domelight supervision, starter kill, trunk release, etcetera.)
Because, however you choose to set up your relay(s), they mustn't be allowed to stay energized (on) with the car off.
I mean, it's OK for a domelight supervision relay to stay on for 30 seconds.....but you can't have a starter kill relay that stays on overnight.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: April 12, 2008 at 7:04 PM
The only external relay on the alarm is a starter kill/anti grind relay. I don't remember if it was included with the alarm or if it was an extra provided by Alarmtek (where I bought it). I made a diagram in paint so I could visualize all the connections. It's not 100% how it's actually wired though (some wires on the alarm that it shows were cut short and not used, and some connections are not in the exact same place as the diagram shows). I will post that in a few minutes so you guys will know all the connections I made.
Also, I removed the 3 fuses from the alarm's power wires, the fuse from the tilt sensor's power wire, the parking light relay wire, and the backup battery's power wire. I then used a jump stater battery pack and left it connected to the car's battery to get the voltage from what it was at (about 5v) to normal voltage, which took about 10 minutes. I then started it, removed the jumper, and it ran for about a minute before dieing again. I tested the voltage after this and it was about 11.6v and rising. But after sitting for the night it now tests as 7.5v. So either it's not the alarm, or even with the fuses pulled it still allows a drain, or I just didn't give the alternator a chance to charge the battery enough. Very confusing!
So can anyone help me find the electrical drain? How to test, where, safety, etc? This thread has some info but I need to know more. I read that testing for a draw as in the second post of the link can cause a lead-acid battery to release explosive gases. Is this method safe?
And thanks again to everyone that has helped me. I really appreciate it!
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 24, 2008 at 12:27 AM
I'm trying to figure out why my battery keeps going dead after I installed a Scytek 5000RS-2W in my '99 Eclipse GSX. The alarm has remote start and turbo timer, and I added a backup battery, tilt sensor and glass break sensor. I tested the Amps that were being drawn from the battery with my DMM and got these readings: -Alarm out - 35mA
-Alarm in (all fuses/connections in) - 57.2mA
-Fuses pulled
-Tilt - 56.7mA
-Backup - 60.2mA
-Alarm power 3 - 57.5mA
-Alarm power 1 - 57.6mA
-Alarm power 1,2 - 57.5mA
-Alarm power 1,2,3 - 57.4mA
-Alarm power 1,2,3; backup batt. - 37.6-38.8mA (fluctuated at ~0.5 sec. interval)
-Connections on brain pulled (all fuses in)
-Antenna - 46.6mA
-E-brake - ~53mA
-Door locks - 57.7mA
-LED - 53.4mA
-Shock sensor - 56.6mA Here is a picture I made in paint of how I wired the system: [IMG]https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/Nayr747/WiringDiagram-Accuratebiggerbrainwi.jpg[/IMG] Can anyone help?
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 24, 2008 at 12:33 AM
I guess the picture didn't work. So here it is: 
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 24, 2008 at 2:31 AM
I just tested the Amps that are being drawn from the battery with my DMM and got these readings: -Alarm brain out - 35mA
-Alarm brain in (all fuses/connections in) - 57.2mA
-Fuses pulled
-Tilt - 56.7mA
-Backup - 60.2mA
-Alarm power 3 - 57.5mA
-Alarm power 1 - 57.6mA
-Alarm power 1,2 - 57.5mA
-Alarm power 1,2,3 - 57.4mA
-Alarm power 1,2,3; backup batt. - 37.6-38.8mA (fluctuated at ~0.5 sec. interval)
-Connections on brain pulled (all fuses in)
-Antenna - 46.6mA
-E-brake - ~53mA
-Door locks - 57.7mA
-LED - 53.4mA
-Shock sensor - 56.6mA And here is a picture I made in paint of how I wired the system:
Can anyone help?
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 24, 2008 at 2:39 AM
Also forgot to mention, it IS the alarm that is doing it and NOT the battery or alternator. I pulled the alarm brain a month or so ago and the problem dissapeared. Also, the only thing about the diagram that isn't 100% correct is the fuse it shows on the backup battery's grey power output wire is not there.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 25, 2008 at 7:02 PM
Can anyone also tell me if I have a neutral safety wire. One of the wiring charts I have lists the wire, but I haven't been able to find it. Is this wire only for automatics?
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 26, 2008 at 5:34 AM
I have a manual version of the Scytek 5000RS-2W and am considering swaping it into my manual car. The only probelm is: The car needs to be turbo timed (continue running for a minute or two after stopped) as it has a turbocharger. But the method used by manual-safe alarms is to have the car shut off when you close the door, not allowing the car to be turbo timed. So my question is: Is there a way using an aftermarket turbo timer that the car can stay running? I.e. Can the immediate shutdown be bypassed for a minute or so by the turbo timer? The safety function would remain the same as far as I can tell so I don't see why they wouldn't have this option built into the unit as the 5000RS-2W and other alarms already have a turbo timer fuction (which cannot be used with the remote start function on manual versions). Any help would be appreciated!
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 26, 2008 at 7:45 AM
Set your remote start run time for a "short" run. Before getting out set the car for remote start but before you open the door hit the start button... the car "should" stay running for the pre programmed run time!
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Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: June 26, 2008 at 9:57 PM
KarTuneMan wrote:
Set your remote start run time for a "short" run. Before getting out set the car for remote start but before you open the door hit the start button... the car "should" stay running for the pre programmed run time!
Alright, I'll give this a try. Thanks!
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 02, 2008 at 1:59 AM
Can anyone tell me how many milliamps an alarm should typically draw when not armed and the car off, and how many milliamps the alarm's antenna should be drawing? Does 25 mA for the whole alarm and about 10 mA for the antenna alone seem normal? Total draw is around 57mA. Alarm is a 2-way paging, remote start, etc. unit. From the other posts I've read total draw should be ideally under 30mA. Is that right?
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 02, 2008 at 5:36 AM
Should my anti-grind relay be wired like this? The diagram in the alarm's manual is slightly different, the only difference being (I think) the 85 pole is going to the ignition wire on the alarm instead of being tied into the starter wire.  Or should it be wired like this?  I have it wired like this. My diode is also facing the opposite direction as the diagram above. Is that how it should be? 
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: July 02, 2008 at 6:38 AM
The diode is backwards in your picture. The band of the diode has to be on the positive wire.
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: July 02, 2008 at 9:35 AM
I don't like to see the current draw above 50mA. Ideally, from the factory a car, at idle, will draw less then 35mA so that gives you about a 15mA buffer for an alarm system.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 02, 2008 at 6:52 PM
Alright, thanks for the help. Well can anyone tell me if 10mA for the alarm's antenna alone seems high? Without that draw, the alarm would be pulling 15mA just like you said it should KPierson. Which would put the total draw at under 50mA. So does that seem like a short on the antenna wiring or just a badly designed antenna?
Also, does this draw (57mA) sound like something that would drain a battery pretty quickly? I have only tested the draw with the alarm unarmed and car off. So I don't know what it is drawing if it is armed or the r/s has been activated. Can I test this the same way with my DMM?
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 02, 2008 at 7:08 PM
KarTuneMan wrote:
Set your remote start run time for a "short" run. Before getting out set the car for remote start but before you open the door hit the start button... the car "should" stay running for the pre programmed run time!
From the manual, it looks like it only has two r/s run times: 15 min and 25 min. Would the car turbo time for this long, or is there something I'm missing? The only other thing I can think of is that the alarm has a port for connecting to a computer to modify its settings, but I don't know what options are available.
Posted By: noobie4life
Date Posted: July 03, 2008 at 9:50 PM
I have the same alarm but I dont have the anti grind relay installed. Is that relay just to prevent the "person" from grinding the starter when turning the key too far when going to disable RS?
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 08, 2008 at 3:04 AM
Alright, some new developments. Apparently the (stock) hood pin being pressed is important for some reason. If it is not pressed, all the readings are double what they would be if it was pressed, regardless of it the alarm is in. So all my readings so far are higher than they would normally be with the hood closed.
Alarm out
-Pin not pressed ~35mA
-Pin pressed ~11.7mA
Alarm in
-Pin not pressed ~57mA
-Pin pressed ~35mA
I also tried testing the R/S relay. The draw was a lot higher after remote starting it, with no change after taking the neg. battery cable off, and after removing the relay. I'm really confused about this. Why wouldn't taking out the relay make the draw go back down?
After R/S
-Hood pin not pressed ~111.7mA
-Pin pressed ~69.5mA
-R/S relay out (pin not pressed) ~113mA
Also tested when locking & unlocking:
-Locking - at first over 200mA (for less than 1 sec), then ~150mA for ~10 sec, ~35mA after ~15 sec. total.
-Unlocking - from my memory I think it did about the same as locking but took much less time to drop to ~35mA
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 08, 2008 at 3:22 AM
Still wondering about a couple things:
The antenna draw is about 10mA. Does that seem too high?
And for the anti-grind relay, the way mine is wired is different from the one on this site and the one in my manual. Mine has the ground when armed going to 86 instead of 85 as in the12volt's diagram, as well as a few other differences (the pics are on page 3). Is that ok? I also re-soldered the diode the other way as was suggested.
Posted By: nayr747
Date Posted: July 12, 2008 at 12:09 AM
After pulling the relay to try to get the draw back down after the r/s, I tried pulling the alarm altogether. Normally this will make it go back down to ~35mA (with the hood open). But it was at like 70mA instead. Anybody have any ideas? I really don't know what to do at this point. Help!
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