99 explorer pats bypass

Hi;

Started to install a Remote Starter in a 99 Explorer with PATS. I was trying to locate the factoy disarm wire but couldnt. Now the car wont start at all. I have 65psi of fuel and I have spark. I think the PATS anti theft system is stuck. I have checked all the fuses and they are all good. Is there a way to bypass the PATS? Where is the module located at and can I just remove it?

Thanks for any advice.

Pat

you cant remove the pats system. You can bypass it, with a resistor but what is your real problem. does it crank? or crank but does not start. the factory disarm should have nothing to do with starting.

Thanks for the help. It cranks but does not start. I believe it uses a transponder. There is a black plastic ring with a module that fits over the key cylinder. It has 4 wires that hooks up to a white connector under the steering column.

Before I ran into problems I was checking out this connector. With no key in the ignition, all four wires showed ground. When key inserted and in run position, one wire was ground and other three where hot. I attempted to jump the three wires with hot and see if the vehicle would then start without the key in the ignition. it would not. Then i put everything back together and it still would not start. I think I may have fried it so I will try to replace it and see what happens.

Any idea what type of bypass unit I will need for this vehicle?

If I have to replace the PATS module, any idea where it is located?

Thanks for any help
Pat

Replaced the transponder on the Ignition cylinder. Still wont start. Guess I will have to look for the module and see if that is what is causing me the problem.

One of them should of showed ground because it is ground.  Another one should show ignition which probably means that a fuse went out which probably cause it not to turn on the car.  The remaining two wires are the TX and RX and as far as I know you should NEVER jump these wires.  Chances were that the fuse was bad and thats why it didt turn on but now that you jumped the TX and RX im pretty sure you fried the transponder system.  You may need to replace the module and get the dealer to program new keys for system with their diagnostic tools.

I shorted one of these wires once and it was just a fuse. not sure which one but an easy enough recheck. you need a bypass or a spare key and a relay to bypass the transponder when you get it all back together working

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The greatest revenge is living well and showing it

Your the one who asked about T-Taps ....did you install this explorer with them?

For pats you need to use a bypass module such as a xk04 from DEI with PKFORD firmware. You should only need one key to program unit.

unplug harness
starting from left to right looking at plug
pin 1 of plug is ground
pin 2 of plug is ignition
pin 3 of plug is RX
pin 4 of plug is TX

You can not use resistors for pats, only vats and passlock I and passlock II in older GM vehicles yes.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

When key inserted and in run position, one wire was ground and other three where hot. I attempted to jump the three wires with hot and see if the vehicle would then start without the key in the ignition.

Not a real good way to "test" any wires for connection during an install of a  remote start. You didn't even REALLY know what you were connecting together.

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Your right...I screwed up and I learned from it. Now I am trying to fix it. It is not a customers car and I have another like vehicle to get parts from. I am just now trying to figure out where the components are located in the vehicle. According to All-Data, the module is on the right side IP. I found what I think is the module. It is white with a ten pin connector(2 rows of five) that is mounted on top of the ac/heater box. It matches what AllData shows.

I will swap out the module from the other vehicle I have. It wont match the original key, but I am thinking if I dont attach the transponder to the ignition cylinder, I can place the key for this second vehicle in the center of the loop and see if the vehicle will start. If so, then I will mount everything as it should be and have the vehicle programmed and move on.

As far as the t-taps go, I have ordered them, but have not yet received them. Thanks for the info on the bypass module I need.

I know I must sound "Not To Bright" for making this type of screw up. I have installed 5 of these remote starts over the years before and never had a problem. I also never had any help other than the instructions. I have never encountered a PATS vehicle before though. All I can say is you live and learn.

Currently we use All-Data in the shop. Is there a better online program for wiring remote starts (hopefully with pics:-))?

Thanks again for the advice
Pat

im not sure if you can just throw the parts from the other vehicle in or not. from what you saying about using the key from the other vehicle it wont work. if swapping the parts does work than when you have the 2nd key there and turn the ignition with the 1st key the module will see two keys and wont start. you can try pulling the chip out of the key that turns the ignition and swap it with the one that works with the module

I would try this myself but I cant say that it will work or not

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The greatest revenge is living well and showing it

If it crancks and won't start but all fuses are ok , did u check the fuel cut of switch it should be in the left quarter panel

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WELL?

Everything in the system must match. Replacing one module from another vehicle will not work.

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Ed

OK...vehicle up and running. I still need to bypass the PATS for the remote start.

I was told that I could take about 5 feet of 16 gauge wire and connect one end to a relay pin #30. Then wrap the wire about ten times around the head of the spare key. Then continue on with the remainder of the wire up the steering column and wrap the wire about ten times around the ignition lock cylinder. Then send the remainder of the wire back to the relay and attach it to pin 87.

Will this work?

Thanks
Pat

It will but I prefer to use a thinner gauge of wire. 18 awg to 20 awg. Wrap 7 times and hook up to relay as you described and to the ignition cylinder 7 times as well. Pin 85 will be hooked to a negative status or negative ignition output off remote start and pin 86 goes to 12v+ constant. I have done this plenty of times on different vehicles but I prefer to use a bypass like I had mentioned in a previous post.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

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WELL?

I fried the theft module. They took my second module and programmed it to work with my car. So now I am back in business:-)

As for the wire wrapping, Why must it be hooked up to a relay? If my pins are right, it doesnt look like I am passing any current through the line. Since I am not passing any current through the line, cant I just attach the two ends to each other and tape them up?

My wiring is as follows:
Pin 85 Ground to chassis
Pin 86 Positive from remote start during cranking
Pin 87 One end of 18 gauge wire wrapping key and Ignition cylinder
Pin 30 Other end of 18 gauge wire wrapping key and Ignition cylinder

Thanks for taking the time to explain it

Pat

the reason for the relay is that when its remote started the circut will be complete in a loop around the ignition and the key. now if you hook it up in a straight loop without a relay and start it with the key the module will see 2 keys and set the theft system and the light will flash. before you hook up the relay put the key in the ignition without turning it and remote start it to make sure everything is working fine 

all of the remote starts ive installed had a GWR (ground while running) or a - status output so heres how i connect them

Pin 85 Ground while running
Pin 86 Positive from ignition or constant fused power
Pin 87 One end of 18 gauge wire wrapping key and Ignition cylinder
Pin 30 Other end of 18 gauge wire wrapping key and Ignition cylinder

I wrap the key and cylinder 5 times with 28 g wire. the chip is near the shaft of the key so wrap it as close to that as you can. I do this on 20-40 fords a month in the winter and never had a problem

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The greatest revenge is living well and showing it

Thanks for the explanation. How do you get the "Ground While Running"? Do you use a relay for it?

Pat

There should be a output on the remote start brain, the most common wire is a small gauge black wire. What kind of starter are you installing?

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The greatest revenge is living well and showing it

Its a Prestige 620. I will check the instructions and see if it has it. I am glad you pointed this out because I thought this only needed to be activated during cranking.

Thanks Again
Pat

The bypass needs to be on when the ignition powers up. The PATS decoder module looks for the valid key signal at that time, and if it sees the valid key it enables fuel/cranking for that run cycle.

All Audiovox pieces will have a wire you can use for a bypass - I know the cheaper series have a light blue "ignition 3 (-)" which I've used; also some have a "transponder port" which contains 2 wires - red constant 12VDC and black GWR.

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