10ga remote start fuse holder what type?

My Clifford 50.5x relay satellite has 3 12v constant wires that i'm going to do a 3 into 1 setup with and take them straight to the battery using 10awg.My question is which fuse holder would be better,a ato/atc blade fuse holder which looks water proof,but not 100% sure like this https://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=070-675 or should i utilize an actual waterproof agu fuse holder in which i would step up to 8awg like this https://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=070-660 Now the three 12v lines come with 30 amp fuses in which i will switch with 15amp fuses and put an 15amp fuse in the fuse holder coming off of the battery also.

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"ole blake"

I'm not sure what kind of car you have, but I'd imagine there's probably someplace inside where you could find a strong source of constant power.

But, to answer your question, I like the first one you listed, because it's easy to find replacement fuses.

If you ever needed another fuse, even if you were out of town, or it was late at night.....even the supermarket carries that kind of fuse.

Or if your car uses the same kind of fuse, you could "borrow" the car's cigarette lighter or defroster fuse.

If you can, try to position that fuseholder upright, with the cover on top, so that any water will flow down and away, instead of collecting on the edge and getting inside.

It might not hurt to put a little petroleum jelly or non-conductive grease inside the cover too.

Ah, one more thing.

I'm not sure how you'd plan to connect that fuseholder to the wire that goes inside the car, but I've found that butt connectors aren't all that reliable under the hood.

I would either:

Solder and shrink tube,

Solder and high quality electrical tape,

Get a heat-shrink butt connector (Autozone and Home Depot should have them, although they're expensive),

Regular butt connector with shrink tubing over it.

Hey Chris i have a 07 Mercury Milan.According to my DirectWire sheet,i only have one 15amp 12v wire at the harness.Which is why i planned on taking the 3 remote start 12v wires to the battery and only the alarm 12v to the harness.

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"ole blake"

You may want to check the Smart Junction Box in the kick panel - it will definitely have a high-current feed going to it and also save you the trouble of running wire to the battery.

Also I would suggest connecting the alarm constant 12V input to the SJB or battery as well - it supplies the feed for the parking lights and the siren, and that's maybe more extra current than you want to add on to the BROWN / red feed to the ignition harness.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Thanks Chris.Right now i'm in the middle of Baghdad and my vehicle is back in the states.I'll be heading home soon so i'm doing as much pre-homework that i can do before i get back.I will def.take a look at the SJB for a main feed though.Thanks for the tip.

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"ole blake"

Good for you...hey thanks for going over there. I was there myself a couple years back.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Your welcome brother.I'm on a 15 month tour this trip,last one was 13,so i'm glad we're coming to an end.I sent you a pm.

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"ole blake"