791 xv 2000 jeep grand cherokee

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104059
Printed Date: July 06, 2025 at 4:22 PM

Topic: 791 xv 2000 jeep grand cherokee

Posted By: faberry1
Subject: 791 xv 2000 jeep grand cherokee
Date Posted: April 17, 2008 at 12:46 AM

Hi all,

I just want to say thanks in the past for the help. Maybe someone can help me with installing the same alarm into a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I want everyone who reads this know I'm not a professional. I'm in the United States Army stationed in Korea and the Koreans won't touch a Jeep. Says parts are to difficult to get and only work on foreign not domestic. I can't afford to have this alarm installed just like the last on They want to charge me $350.00. My Inlaws' liked their's alarm so much and said I had to have one. They bought me one after I installed theirs. So, I have the alarm, install manual, owner's manual and a little knowledge about installing my own alarms. Anyway's, I've been researching this website, and bulldog security. I think this is going to be more painful than installing in an 1996 honda civic. ie transponder, tearing the truck apart to get to wires that I really do not want to do. On the expresskits.com by directed says I could use I believe the XK01 bypass would work, but the 791xv doesn't have a dataport, or is it saying to hook this cable to the factory alarm system? Also it says it will do several jobs, but I only see a 10 pin wire set. I'm just so confused can anyone help? If you need more info I will.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Replies:

Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: April 17, 2008 at 6:37 AM

You need to get a bypass if you have gray keys. The DEI bypass is the 555CW and runs about 25 bucks online. You will need two keys if i remember correctly to program it. Also you will need a 455JW. This unit runs about 35 bucks and will make this install a LOT easier. It will provide you with lock wires, door trigger and also control the factory alarm. Without it you will need 4 relays and have to access both front doors, weel worth the money. With the 455JW the truck is pretty easy. You will need some resistors for parking lights, but even that is easy....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 17, 2008 at 7:12 PM

Just wondering, Yep Curiosity killed cat not my intentions but the xk01 says it provides wires for all doors, door triggers, all lights (dome, and parking), defogger, entry point status, and much more. You don't think this will be better? I found one online for about 44.95 I believe. Maybe the data 2 data cable has to be hooked up, or just the wire 2 wire can be hooked up. Any I want to thank you for posting a repl, I have read some replies from nubees that didn't sound too good. Anyways whatever you say I will do, got to get the parts first but I want to exhaust my options first to get the best, bucause I plan on getting the most out of this alarm, but just can't afford over 350.00 in parts. Again thank you and I'm looking foward to your opinion.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: dtk1
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 12:23 AM

xk01 for your door looks and dome light door trigger and a couple of more little thing and use a 556u (made by DEI) for you immobilizer bypass not need to look for any wires all you need is an aditional key that you will lose once you put it in the module or a 555c but you still need 2 keys to program it just read everything carefully and make sure that you have the right firmware on the xk01. for the parking lights MUST used a relay and is a negative trigger thru a 1300 ohm resistor

Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 6:30 AM

XK01 needs programming while the 455JW is good right out of the box. Niether will do Parking lights on a Jeep. Like DTK, i prefer a 556UW for the bypass but it will need it's own key. The 555CW is a little tricky for someone that hasn;t done one before. You could get a 556UW, get a blank key on Ebay for 15 bucks, get it cut where you are now and program it yourself(provided you have two working keys already for the Jeep). The 556UW is bulletproof, works everytime with zero hassle.

As for parking lights, i have never isolated the light wire like they say to from DEI. I always simply add a resistor to the wire and it's done. Works everytime with no relay....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 8:13 AM

Sweet I appreciate the info. I will do it the basic and more cheaper way. I will order the XK01, the risitor, and the 555CW. I have two grey keys and have the directions and think I can do it. If problems arise I have ya'll to give me advice, I hope. So I'm going to order the parts and then I will install. I will keep this topic up to date if I have troubles. It may take a few weeks. I will keep responding to the advice I get on this topic. The more info the better. Another reason I chose the XK01 it has the window roll-up feature and would like to do this. It has the defrost, heater, A/C feature I would like to use this also. Anyways you catch my drift I want to install all features that the 791xv offers. Thanks.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 9:02 PM

I'm not sure about this but i don't think the XK01 will do windows and heater control features on your Jeep. You might want to check into this a little more. Also, be aware the 455JW is much more installer friendly...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 7:34 AM

You know like I said, I'm not a pro. Thank you. It's just because It says on the xpresskit.com that the XK01 has either wire 2 wire analog, which I need wires, because the viper 791xv does not have a data port, only a bitwriter port with a three pin and not a four pin like on the XK01. So I'm assuming this will not work for data only the violet wire that connects to the OBDII on the diagnostic plug in the vehicle.Not to insult your intellegence, but I will upload the manuals for these bypass kits. Thanks and let me know what you find out. posted_image

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 7:37 AM

I guess I don't know how to upload. I'm going to figure it out. Hang tight.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 7:46 AM

I can't figure out how to upload. I will have to find out. But here is the website. Just click select 200 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Yea da! Sorry to insult you.

https://www.xpresskit.com

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 8:32 AM

faberry1,

The Grand Cherokee can be a very difficult car to do without a doorlock module, or a very easy car with modules and enough research beforehand.

A few thoughts:

--Use the search feature here. The Grand Cherokee was the same from 1999 to 2004, and was talked about a lot around here when it was in production. Should be lots of information to be found.

--Many of us just tap a wire into the factory parking light relay, instead of using the resistor. (Should be able to find this info with search feature.)

--The XK01 can be programmed with different firmware, for many different cars. (GM, Hyundai, etcetera.) Especially since you're overseas, make sure you buy it from someone who promises to pre-load it with the Jeep firmware for you.

--I think bypasskit.com also makes a piece that's essentially an XK01 and a 555C combined into one part. Makes for a slightly cleaner install, but it's not really necessary. I think it's a JDL-PKUCH or something like that?

--You don't need the D2D port. It's just to save you a little bit of time, and make the installation neater.

From my experience and my co-workers', D2D doesn't work right half the time anyway. So I wouldn't worry about it.

All you have to do is connect the corresponding wires from the doorlock module to those of the remote starter....... remote starter's lock wire to the module's lock wire, and so forth.

--Like others have said, the 555C can be tricky.

It's super simple to program, but the idea of playing around to locate that pellet in a spot that'll work, is one of the dumbest things I've ever seen.

But, all it takes really is patience and calmness, and you'll eventually get a spot where it'll work.

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 9:44 PM

My 2 cents on this issue...Bypasskit JDL-PK or XK531 with the JDL 1.00 firmware combine doorlock control and immobilizer bypass. I would suggest the JDL-PK since they both install the same way and you're guaranteed not to get the wrong firmware.

Also, either of those pieces don't have the disadvantage of the 555C - they have a ring which goes around the key cylinder instead of the pellet. In my experience with both, the Bypasskit pieces are much less touchy than the 555C.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 20, 2008 at 12:30 AM

For both of you thanks a bunch. You may not know how hard it is to get the right stuff. I'm always a great big fan of research before doing any electronic device out there. There are so many precautions and so on. So D2D doesn't work well. That's good to know. So that is what I thought about the lights, I never put an extra relay or resistor, just use the existing relay. I'm going to look at this bypasskit JDL-PK I looked at them before, and came accross one site on ebay and had a company say if you are going to order one to call and let them know what firmware you want on it. Thanks. Now if I purchase one of these it should already have the transponder bypass and immonilizer built in it right? I know the XK01 says it does. Chris Luongo you are saying to hook the wires of the bypass unit directly to the remote start system and your pretty much done? Anyways what my real problem is I bought a Chilton manual and the wireing diagrams and the wiring diagrams of the 12volt website don't match. Should I be worried, or dig in and find out for myself? Iknow I can install it I've done all my vehicles because I have high dollar stereo equipment and go to competitions all have done myself. So it's not all new to me just a little confusion. As I said before thaks and I will keep checking back.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 20, 2008 at 7:25 AM

Yes, JDL-PK, that's what I was thinking of. I've only installed one, but it worked very well.

To try to answer your other questions:

There aren't really that many wires to find in your Jeep. But anyway, any of the wire-color-sheets for a 99-2004 (you could probably find one searching here, I would think) should be good....but along with that, you want to test everything. Even a cheapie test light works fine, as long as you're not probing airbag wires with it.

If you go to bypasskit.com, you can read the installation instructions right on the website. Pretty much, the module needs power, ground, a bunch of connections from the module to your remote starter.......and one connection from the module to the data (computer) wire in the car.

You can do all that work with the bypass module as part of your bench prep. You could velcro or double-stick-tape the module to the back of your remote starter brain..........or leave its wires long and mount it somewhere separate, whichever you like.

But either way, basically yeah, you just connect all the corresponding wires from the doorlock module to the remote starter. I also take the module's ground and power wires, and splice them onto the remote starter's power and ground wires during my prep.

As far as a basic install on your Grand Cherokee, there aren't many wires you need to find anyway:

--Main ignition harness: When you drop down the driver's dash panel, and unbolt the metal knee brace behind it for easier access, the six heavy wires coming down the steering column are practically staring at you.

--Brake wire: I just slightly twist to the left the brake-pedal switch, which releases it from its mount and then drops down. At that point, there's enough slack to make an easy connection.

--Door trigger wire: I forget if the doorlock module already gives you a door trigger output to use for your alarm? Even if it doesn't, most Grand Cherokees have an underdash courtesy light.....you'll see it right there while you're working.

--Factory parking light relay: Above the driver's fuse box is a bank of fuses. Touch each relay with something solid (like a screwdriver), while turning the lights on and off, until you feel which is the parking light relay. You can tap your (negative) parking light wire in there, to terminal 86 of the relay.

--Tachometer: Whether yours is a six or an eight cylinder, the fuel injectors should be right there on top of the motor. The factory hood-release cable, where it passes through the firewall, I think you can pass your tach wire through there.

That's really about all you have to find.

P.S. On the side of the driver's lower dash, visible only with the door open, is a single Philips screw. Make sure you don't forget to have a stubby screwdriver, or a right-angle screwdriver, to get that off.

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 12:13 AM

As usual Chris Luongo has given an incredible amount of detail, to which I will only add one little bit.

With the JDL-PK you don't need to worry about firmware - it's not a firmware-upgradeable part like the XK01/02/531/etc, but it still has the same functionality. So you get a simple interface module that's not possibly going to start its long journey your way with the wrong firmware programmed to it.

Also, the XK01 is primarily a doorlock and alarm interface. It only bypasses the immobilizer on select GM vehicles.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 9:09 PM

Thank you chriswallace. I will be ordering the JDL-PK. Do you know if it still has the window roll-up and defrost or HVAC feature on it. I know the XK01 does or I think it does. I believe it is a wiring thing or you have to put in a certain mode or something like that right? Anyways I found one online for about 62 bucks. I couldn't find on on ebay since they are the cheapest in my opinion. If the JDL-PK doesn't I will lean towards the XK01 since it does and it is much more cheaper 45 bucks. I know it is not necessary but I found an XK Loader there for about the same price, so this will eleminate the firmware update if I run into a problem. So thanks again and I appreciate the info. Hope to here your opinion later.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 11:29 PM

You may also want to search for a "DEI 455J" for the doorlocks. This is the first module that DEI came out with to control the doorlocks on the 1999-2003 Grand Cherokee. I used that module many times back when I was installing and it works great with no programming required.

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 2:20 PM

Actually the JDL-PK doesn't do the window roll-up/heated seats if the temp is below 32F, the XK01 does.

The XK01 won't bypass the immobilizer though...it only disarms the alarm, so you'd need a separate piece to do that(PKU-CH should work).

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 1:15 AM

Ok gentlemen. I'm still a little confused. Sorry, please bare with me. I did a little more research and the XK531 looks like the best choice for me. It does have the immobilizer, transponder bypass, window roll up on /off, defrost, and etc...Features. Now my confusion is how in the heck can you have a box with only ten wires, hooking these wires to the viper 791xv and it work all these features? I've tried to study this I am pretty good with electronics, but my guess would be, the XK531 sends the signals from the OBDII pin 2 wire in the vehicle, the other 7 wires; since PK/WT and PK wires are not used. connect these wires to the wires of the viper 791xv unit. The defrost aux output wire from the alarm will not be used, the trunck/hatch release aux output wire from the alarm will not be used, and so on; as it is recieving the signal from the XK531 unit. Am I correct or am I just not getting it. Also it says it has an RS- 2nd Start Wire Activation (Mux) wire 2 wire feature, again as I said before. I basically know the XK531 recieves the signal from the OBDII pin 2 connection from the vehicle, but where do you make these connections on the 791xv unit? Like I said just a little confused. If I don't understand something I really don't want to do something if you know what I mean. In turn I don't want to waste the alarm either. Anyways any info would help because these install manuals are't really helping. I want to do it with fewer difficulties. Thanks again to the people of 12volts.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 3:11 AM

Basically you've got it...there's a whole bunch of stuff that can be done with J1850(Class II) data on the '99-'04 Grand Cherokee. The door lock control, factory alarm arm/disarm, window roll-up/down, and climate control on your vehicle are done over the class II data line, not with conventional wires.

Trunk/hatch isn't...but obviously you don't have a remote with trunk pop, just a glass hatch that you can open with the button on the gate if the car's unlocked.

The 2nd start/mux output from the XK531 isn't used on your vehicle. That applies to some of the more recent Chrysler designs('01 minivans were the first) which don't have a conventional ignition switch.

The ground-when-running output to the XK531 enables multiple functions as does the lock output.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 4:13 AM

Thank You Chriswallace187. Ok great let me see if I got this right. On the ground when running output of the XK531 brown wire I can eliminate the Factory alarm arm/disarm, defogger, wires of the (791xv) unit? It already bypasses the immobilizer and transponder with programming. Connect the (-) green wire (XK531) to the lock output to (-) green of the (791xv) unit. Same for the (-) blue wire (XK531) to the unlock output to (-) blue of the (791xv) unit. Voilet/white wire (XK531) to (-) green door trigger input, zone 3 of the (791xv) unit. Violet wire (XK531) to the OBII pin 2 of the vehicle. Eliminate orange wire (XK531) as this is an optional connection. Of course constant 12v red (XK531) to vehicle 12v constant source, and ground (XK531) to chassis ground and that is it other than the programming right? As for the rest of the wires of the 791xv pretty self explanitery to me. Just the confusing part was the bypass module. Just let me know what you think. Thanks again.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 5:48 AM

Also with the (XK531) brown wire I found that I can eliminate the (791xv) domelight supervision, RPM or tachometer status wires.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 3:26 PM

You can eliminate dome supervision, since the module sends lock and unlock signals as though it were the factory remote sending them - however the manual for the XK531, firmware JDL 1.0 doesn't say it supplies a tach status output, so you'll still need to run a tach wire.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 8:02 PM

So I'm assuming RPM Status Wire 2 Wire function on the xk531is different than Tac status for the 791xv. How about earlier when I went throught the wire connections from the xk531 to the 791xv you think those were the right connections? Anyways great this is a big help. Also I've been researching this tach, I know you can get this from more than one place in the vehicle, ie computer, behind the instrument panel, the coil itself and so on. What do you reccomend? I would use the wire to the RPM guage there is ususlly a wire to the guage itself that I would normally use and is located behind the instrument panel. Hopefully my last question before I dive in, parts should be here in about two weeks, is do you recommend any other modules, relays, resistors, and so on for this installation? Thanks.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 9:53 PM

I'm not sure which manual you're getting your info on what the XK531 will and won't do on the '00 JGC. I would suggest you read the manual for the JDL firmware, which specifically states what it will and won't output. The functionality of the XK series modules varies depending on what vehicle and what firmware they are used on.

I see the note at the bottom where it mentions that alarm/RS systems designed with ClearCode Vehicle Interface Protocol can get more data through the XK module...I'm not familiar with ClearCode but I know the 791xv is definitely NOT a system that has it - the 791's got strictly analog inputs and outputs.

Also - I don't think you're going to find a tach at the inst. cluster(
it's also sent via data from the BCM or PCM). I've always used a fuel injector or coil wire; they are easy to get to and you'll have to run a wire underhood for your hoodpin and siren anyway.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 25, 2008 at 1:14 AM

From what I can gather in the ClearCode VIP is strictly Data 2 Data only. What I was referinf is on the features on what the unit does is offers a data 2 data signal from the JGC OBII connection that in turns into an analog wire 2 wire signal gets to the 791xv some how and provides an RPM status. If you look at the features before you download the manual it has a series of features and x's and checks and it lists an output wire 2 wire for RPM status. What do you make of this. I got to go I will send another post in a little while. Thanks

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 26, 2008 at 7:08 PM

Ok I'm still not seeing where you're reading this...can you copy the exact link you're viewing when reading about the tach signal output?

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 26, 2008 at 10:48 PM

Programmable Platform#531:Door Lock Control + RF Override (XK531)

1st Generation Sentry Key RF transponder bypass + door lock control

XK531 Programmable Combo Door Lock & Alarm Control Interface w/integrated 1st gen. (97-04)Sentry Key RF Transponder Bypass. XK531 preloaded with upgradeable firmware (JDL) for 99-04 Jeep Cherokee. Primary control functions incl.: door locks, factory alarm, trunk/hatch release, door pin status output(-) & 2nd starter activation. Transponder chip included to bypass via RF induction using loop antenna. *Programmable interface control firmwares available for all Chrylser, Dodge & Jeep model years.

Functions supported

PK-Transponder & Immobilizer Override	D2D	W2W
- PK- Bypass Transponder RF: NKR

DL- OE Door Lock & Alarm Controls	D2D	W2W
- DL- Arm factory security
- DL- Disarm Factory Security
- DL- Door Lock Control
- DL- Door Unlock ALL doors
- DL- Door Unlock Driver Priority
- DL- Sliding Door Control Driver
- DL- Sliding Door Control Passenger
- DL- Trunk / Hatch Release

CC- Comfort & Convenience Controls	D2D	W2W
- CC- Heated Mirrors
- CC- Heated Seats
- CC- Power mirror memory
- CC- Power seats memory
- CC- Radio channel memory

AV - Horn & Lights Control	D2D	W2W
- AV- Domelight Activation
- AV- Domelight Bypass
- AV- Horn Chirp
- Panic mode

SS- Entry Point Status -Security	D2D	W2W
- SS- Entry Status ALL Door Pins
- SS- Entry Status Drivers Door Pin
- SS- Entry Status Front Door Pins
- SS- Entry Status Hood Pin
- SS- Entry Status Trunk/Hatch Pin

FOB Factory Remote Status Control	D2D	W2W
- FOB Door Lock/Unlock Activation
- FOB Door Lock/Unlock Status

Miscellaneous	D2D	W2W
- RAP Shut Off

This is where it say RPM Status

RS- Engine Start & Status	D2D	W2W
- RPM Status
- RS- 2nd Start Wire Activation (Mux)
- RS- Tach Output

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 27, 2008 at 11:55 AM

That chart definitely doesn't apply to the 2000 Grand Cherokee. The 2nd start(mux) activation wasn't necessary for Grand Cherokees till 2005.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 27, 2008 at 2:34 PM

I guess false advertisment gets the best of us.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 27, 2008 at 5:09 PM

Ehh...their functionality documentation is a bit screwy at times. I'm sure that the XK531 actually does that stuff with different firmware on cars other than a Grand Cherokee. Basically you have to read the exact guide for your car and firmware.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 28, 2008 at 11:28 AM

OOOPS didn't mean to offend anyone if I did. Anyways I'm just getting frustrated, if I were in the states I at this point I would just save the time and the headache to just have it professionally done. I'm going to put in my stereo equipment in a couple of weeks and trying to get this in ASAP. Funds are tight right now expecting them soon to order the right parts and knowing what I'm doing. It's just this remote start and bypass kits that's getting me right now. I know once I start I can ask questions I have and someone if not chriswallac187 will I know. So I got an idea of what I need and how to do the install but if there is anything else I should know please let me know before I buy these parts. If not I shall let this topic close and I will open a different topic should I run into problems. Thank to the people of 12v's especially chriswallace187

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 28, 2008 at 3:27 PM

Shouldn't be any problem...XK531 with JDL 1.0 firmware is all you'll need. Feel free to PM me if you want.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: April 30, 2008 at 5:23 AM

Thank you. I will. I appriciate all the help chris and the people of 12v's

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 22, 2008 at 1:35 AM

I just wanted everyone to know I finally got the parts last week and will be starting my installation tonight. If I have any questions I will make a comment.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 22, 2008 at 8:18 AM

Now, correct me if I'm wrong. Do you connect the brown wire( (-) ground when running)of the xk531 to the orange wire( (-) ground when armed) of the (RCS)/viper 791xv?

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 22, 2008 at 4:25 PM

Negative on that(no pun intended)...the brown GWR should be connected to the blue (-) status out from the 791.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 23, 2008 at 6:16 PM

Thanks, I appreciate that. I will let you know how it turns out, I'm actually starting today, Saturday. If I have a question I'll ask.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 24, 2008 at 8:42 AM

Just a couple of things. Do you recommend an easier way to get to the park/neutral position switch other than removing the transmission. Also I have this toggle switch for the park/nuetral switch and was wondering if you knew which way I need to hook this up. The 791xv installation book says there are two ways to hook it up. 12volts says the yellow wire in the ignition switch harness is the park/neutral safety switch. I've already determined the yellow wire is the starter wire. It says it is a BROWN / Yellow wire, and I don't know where to locate this wire. Any sugestions? The other is the tach wire. As said before just tap into one of the fuel injector Tan wires, it is a little more difficult to connect to the BCM or PCM or something like that. Any other suggestions? Also what is the easiest way to tap into the park light relay? I found the relay but I think I will have to drop the fuse panel to get to the back where the wires are. Any suggestions? That is all I have left. Then I test and program the XK531. Now is there any problems if I have the alarm, xk531 all hooked up when I program the xk531, or do I need to leave the 791xv disconnected while doing this? One more and I will close. Now the starter wire. I cut the yellow wire in half, from the ignition switch plug I hooked the key side wire of the alarm to that. The other half of the wire I hooked the start side of the alarm. Is this right? Anyways hope you read this soon. Thanks.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 24, 2008 at 9:32 PM

faberry1 wrote:

Just a couple of things. Do you recommend an easier way to get to the park/neutral position switch other than removing the transmission. Also I have this toggle switch for the park/nuetral switch and was wondering if you knew which way I need to hook this up.

Connect it to one wire from the toggle switch, and the other wire from toggle switch to ground. Your car has a starter interrupt built into the park/neutral switch on the transmission, so actually connecting that to the car is unnecessary.

faberry1 wrote:

The other is the tach wire. As said before just tap into one of the fuel injector Tan wires, it is a little more difficult to connect to the BCM or PCM or something like that. Any other suggestions?

I've found that the injectors are the easiest to get to, so I'd go with them.

faberry1 wrote:

Also what is the easiest way to tap into the park light relay? I found the relay but I think I will have to drop the fuse panel to get to the back where the wires are. Any suggestions? That is all I have left. Then I test and program the XK531. Now is there any problems if I have the alarm, xk531 all hooked up when I program the xk531, or do I need to leave the 791xv disconnected while doing this? One more and I will close. Now the starter wire. I cut the yellow wire in half, from the ignition switch plug I hooked the key side wire of the alarm to that. The other half of the wire I hooked the start side of the alarm. Is this right? Anyways hope you read this soon. Thanks.

The easiest way at the parklight relay is to connect directly to the relay prong. I'm not certain whether 85 or 86 is switched, so pull it out slightly to meter it and see which one changes when the lights are turned on. Connect to that terminal.

Starter wire you have correct.

I believe the XK531 is supposed to be held directly in front of the key cylinder in order to program it(unplugged at this time). The alarm can be left plugged in. More info on programming to come later, but I've got a game to watch. I'll get back to you.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 24, 2008 at 11:52 PM

chriswallace187

so your saying on the park/nutral switch you don't need to hook this up? I won't if I don't have too. That's all I have left. Everything else is hooked up.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 12:32 AM

another question, in step 5 it says "with the help of a jumper wire, power up the vehicles ignition" do you know what this means? Why not use the key?

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 12:33 AM

That was on the xk531 module

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 8:53 AM

Here's my problem. While testing the alarm and bypass kit, my remote start won't work at all. I tested all the wires for 12 volts and amps. They all chack out, I'm getting the readings as I should according to the install book. The xk531 will not sense the doors being open. I arm the system and you can enter the vehicle, and start the vehicle. This should not happen. When I close the doors it does not arm, and it will not arm automatically. Also when I put the xk531 in mode 5 option 2 windows roll-up on, it will not roll up the windows. Here are the connections I made from start to almost finished:

Primary Harness (H1), 12-Pin Connector
H1/1 RED / white to (none)
H1/2 Red to Red (IG switch)
H1/3 Brown to Siren
H1/4 Empty
H1/5 Black to chassis Ground
H1/6 Violet to (none)
H1/7 Blue to (none)
H1/8 Green to violet/white (xk531)
H1/9 BLACK/ white to (none)
H1/10 WHITE/ blue to provided push pin switch (grounded to chassis ground)
H1/11 White to park lamp relay (pin 86)
H1/12 Orange to none
Auxiliary Harness (H2), 6-Pin Connector
H2/1 Light/blue to (none)
H2/2 WHITE/ black to (none)
H2/3 Violet/black to (none)
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE to (none)
H2/5 Gray/black to (none)
H2/6 Light GREEN/ black to (none)
Door Lock Harness, 3-Pin Connector
1 Light Blue to green (xk531)
2 Empty
3 Green to green (xk531)
Heavy Guage Inline Connector Key Switch Interface
1 Purple to Star side of yellow wire (IG Switch)
2 Green to key side of yellow wire (IG Switch)
3 Red to Red wire (IG Switch)
4 Orange to RED / Black wire (IG Switch)
5 Pink to Dark Blue wire (IG Switch)
6 Red to Pink/Black wire (IG Switch)
7 Pink/White to (none)
8 RED / White to Pink/Black wire (IG Switch)
Remote Start Harness (H3), 5-Pin Connector
H3/1 BLACK/ White to (none)
H3/2 Violet/White to Tan wire on second fuel injector
H3/3 Brown to WHITE/ Tan of brake pedal switch
H3/4 Gray to Black wire (-) of the hood lamp
H3/5 Blue/White to (none)
Horn, Channel 6 (H4), 2-Pin Connector
H4/1 to (none)
H4/2 Brown to (none)
Relay Satellite 4-Pin Connector
1 Blue to Brown (xk531)
2 Orange to (none)
3 Violet to (none)
4 Pink to (none)
XK531 Rest Of The Wires
1 Orange (Panic) to (none)
2 Violet to OBDII Data Connector (Pin-2)
4 Red to Red wire (IG Switch)
3 Black to chassis ground

Hopefully you can help, and it won't take too much time from you. I know you are there and I'm here and you can't be here to check it out. I only have two days left as I have my vehicle in the motorpool and is not allowed in there at all. I can't do it here in housing because there is no electric to solder wires, run a drill and so on. Anything will be greatly appreciated. Almost done. Thanks again for your support. I couldn't have done it without chriswallace187 and several others at 12 volts.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 10:04 AM

To confirm again, you don't need to connect the neutral safety to any wire on the vehicle. If you look at pages 26 and 27 of the install manual, it describes the vehicles you would need to connect it on, namely older model GMs, Dodge Dakotas.

The purpose of the jumper wire has to do with the nature of transponder programming. The XK531(and every other bypass I've ever seen for Chryslers) programs to the car as though it were a new key being added. When the vehicle sees the 2 existing keys in sequence and the ignition is left on for 10 seconds, it goes into programming mode and will learn a new transponder(in a key or a bypass module), if it sees that new transponder for 10 seconds with the ignition on and the car off.

When you're adding a new key it's pretty simple to power the ignition on if you have the key cut beforehand. With a bypass it's a bit more complicated because if you use a key to power the ignition, the car will see that key and the bypass, get confused, and not learn the bypass's transponder.

There are 3 ways you can power the ignition while you're programming the XK531.
1. Use the jumper wire as the manual states.
2. Ground the wait to start wire on the 791XV and activate remote start.
3. After you've used the 2 existing keys to get it into programming mode, wrap the head of one with aluminum foil and turn the ignition on with it.

As far as the issues from your last post - try going through the programming steps again and confirming all the indicators that the XK531 has programmed. Also recheck connections. I'm assuming that your connection of the lt. blue (-) unlock from the 791 is a typo and that you meant that you connected it to the lt. blue wire on the 531 as well.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 11:14 AM

Thanks again chriswallace187. Your a life saver. Ok, I know I programmed the xk531 to the T, after going through a painful experience. If I knew it was going to be that easy, I would have waited before doing it the way I did. I jumped from the red,and pink/black wire to the blue, RED / black to power up accessory and ignition without starting the vehicle and was able to successfully program the xk531. I like option 3 very quick and easy. I don't believe their is a lt blue wire on the xk531, it is a blue wire. I connected the lt blue wire to the door lock harness 791XV to the green wire of the xk531. I'm going to go through the programming steps again tomorrow to make sure it is not the wiring. Now do you need to disarm the vehicle to remote start? I believe one of my problems with arming is that two of my lock and unlock switch are broke. They will not lock automatically. I have to manually lock them. The back liftgate and the front passenger door. I will try to manually lock them and see if that helps. Something that was bothering me was when I armed the system, the remote control flashe the hood and left side door while arming. Now I connected the gray wire to the black (-) of the hood lamp under the hood. Is this sufficiant? This will not cause it to not remote start the system will it? I have read both the install guide and the user manual and did not find how to activate and de-activate the remote start. The blue/white wire on the push-pin. Anyways I will let you know tomorrow the outcome of this. Again thanks a lot for the info.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 11:36 AM

I just found this updated vehicle wiring diagram. Do I need to hook this ORANGE / black wire to make my remote start to work?

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information
Constant 12V+	Pink/Black or Red	Ignition Switch Harness
Starter	Yellow or Yellow/Blue	Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition	Dark Blue	Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3	BLACK/ Orange	Ignition Switch Harness 2nd Accessory.
Accessory	RED / Black	Ignition Switch Harness
Tach	Tan	PCM right Rear Connector Engine (1 Cylinder Setting)
Neutral Safety Wire	Yellow (+)	Ignition Switch
Brake Switch	WHITE/ Tan	Brake Switch
Parking Lights	Yellow (-)	1K Ohm Resistor Negative
Head Lamp	Yellow (-)	Head Light Switch 330 Ohm RES.
Factory Disarm	Light GREEN/ Orange(-)	Driver's Door Lock Switch 463 Ohm Resistor
Door Trigger	Yellow (-)	Courtesy Light under Dash
Door Lock	ORANGE / Black Driver's.	ORANGE / Purple Passenger's in each Front Door
Door Unlock	Pink/Black Driver's.	Pink/Purple Passenger's Reverse Polarity
Driver's Lock	ORANGE / Black	In Driver's Door
Driver's Unlock	Pink/Black	In Driver's Door
Passenger Unlock	Pink/Purple	Right Kick Panel
Horn Wire	Gray/Orange (-)	52 Pin Connector POS 1 behind left Side of DAS
Windows Up	LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown, LR=Dark Blue, RR=Gray
Windows Down	LF=White, RF=Purple, LR=RED / White, RR=Dark Green

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 5:34 PM

The BLACK/ orange is an accessory - it may be necessary to get the blower working. It certainly won't stop the car from remote starting.

The green (-) lock from the 791 should go to the green wire on the 531, and lt. blue (-) unlock should go to blue on the 531. Arm and disarm may not work the way you have it setup there.

Specify what's wrong with your locks. Just those 2 door actuators don't work with the switch? or the switches don't work?

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 6:25 PM

Lock and unlock work fine. Its the arm and disarm thats the problem. When I close the doors, push the arm button on the transmitter to arm it only locks and unlocks the doors. It doesn't arm. Because I can get in the vehicle while it is armed and start the car. When the system is armed you shouldn't be able to enter thew vehicle when armed the siren should go off, and starterkill should activate.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 25, 2008 at 9:33 PM

Ok here is another problem. Before I hooked up the remote start relay, I cut the yellow wire in half on the jeep. Outcome was it would not start. so I continued to hook up the remote start relay and done. the vehicle starts. no fuses or power to the yellow wire. That should engage the starter kill on the relay. Still the vehicle starts with no fuses and so on.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 2:56 AM

Check to make sure you aren't in valet mode(LED on solid is valet mode)...also give it some time(1 minute should be enough) after you arm in order for it to set.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 10:05 AM

Sorry to put you through such a headache. I got a big one from this. On the comment before about the door locks, the actual door-lock switch on the back lift gate, and the passenger front door are stripped or something. The back lift gate will not lock or unlock, I have to manually lock and unlock it. The passenger side door, will unlock, but will not lock, again I have to lock it manually. The alarm could be sensing that the passenger door is not locked since they are electronically sensed through the information system. When I arm the system the door will flash on the transnitter, almost like it is detecting a door unlocked or something. Sort of like I seen before when I was trying to get the system to army and it wouldn't. The reason that was, it was because when I hooked up the hood pin switch wire to the underhood lamp, it was seeing ground constantly detecting the hood was open. So I used the push-pin switch supplied with the alarm and made a hood pin myself. Using the toggle switch that was for the nuetral safety switch, I used that for the blue/white for remote start activation and de-activation. Simply turn it to on or off.

So I got everything to work right except the remote start activation. I know I have to have everything hooked up right, because the starterkill works right. So, the only other thing has to be the programming. When I did that honda a while back, when I transmitted the remote start (*+*) It would show me on the transmitter it was going to remote start, and a few seconds later it remotely started. I get nothing on my transmitter. You know the tail pipe and the little puff of smoke comming out of it? Not to insult your intellegence. But like I said earlier, all voltage, and mA's are good on the satellite relay, the brain and everything else. Darn it it just won't remotly start. By the way, It's not in valet. But when I turn the ignition on then off, the lights flash twice. Is this normal? Also when I arm it the LED will flash 3 times, then 3 times again and so on. Sometimes it will flash twice, then sometimes it will flash one time. If any programming thoughts or suggestions please let me know. Thanks again for the info.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 12:41 PM

I'm 99.9% certain that the screwed-up door lock actuators won't cause problems with the door sensing. Chrysler to my knowledge has never used any kind of position sensing in their lock actuators, and even if they did it would only sense that the door was unlocked, not that it was opened.

The door switches are built into the door latches at the back of each respective door. If you want to rule them out as a problem, watch the domelight after you shut all doors(don't try to arm the alarm at that time)...it should stay on for a few seconds and then fade out like normal.

Also for now...disconnect that toggle switch until you have the r/s working properly. That WHITE/ blue (-) activation input is designed to receive momentary pulses to ground...it may not hurt to have it constantly there but just do this to make sure that it's not causing problems.

Make sure again that the neutral safety BLACK/ white wire is connected to ground. If it's not the remote start's likely to not do anything.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 9:29 PM

You mentioned using the toggle switch on the WHITE/ blue activation input. That switch is supposed to be on the BLACK/ white neutral safety input. The other side of the switch goes to ground, then you need to put it in the ON position. That is probably why it won't try to remote start. The WHITE/ blue wire does NOT need to be connected to anything.

I have my doubts about the XK531 being able to detect a door trigger. I would connect the yellow (-) wire at the underdash light directly to the green (-) door trigger input of the Viper. If the domelight doesn't shut off immediately when arming, then you will need to turn off the error notification in programming.

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 27, 2008 at 1:21 AM

Shoot! I misunderstood in the earlier post. I was thinking you did not have to connect the neutral safety wire up at all. I already reconnected the green (-) door trigger to the courtesy light's yellow wire. I'm going to try to hook up that neutral safety switch wire up now. Thanks for the info. Catch you in the next post. Hopefully it will be good and not another bad one.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 1:35 AM

Ok Chriswallace187. I hooked the wire up and at first it would spin the starter for a split second. Then I tried again and again. Walked away and tried one more time and it started. Then I shut it down and then it did it again. Start for a split second and have not tried again. The white blue/wire is not hooked to any switch or ground. But everything else seems to work fine. It flashes the lights before remote start, turns on the accessories and then a split second start. Maybe you will know what this is. It seems to have the same problem as It did before on that honda I did. But on the honda I never used a bypass kit. Or maybe I did not need one for the honda. They took it to a professional and I never knew what the problem was, nor did they. Hopefully you could help. Thanks.

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: faberry1
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 1:40 AM

Now I just walked out there again and it started again. Do you know what this might mean. Is something might just be over loading something, or is that just remoter start?

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Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 11:21 AM