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viper 5900 remote start problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104098
Printed Date: May 27, 2022 at 5:38 PM


Topic: viper 5900 remote start problem

Posted By: npatzke
Subject: viper 5900 remote start problem
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 8:40 PM

I have a 1999 Honda Accord that I am installing a Viper 5900 in myself. I have all the security functions hooked up, and working. This includes: H1, Remote Start, LED, Vallet Button, Door Lock, H3, Shock Sensor, Antenna Receiver.

On the H1 harness I did not attatch "(-)activation input" to anything.

The Remote start doesn't do anything - as far as i'm concerned.

Everything is hooked up properly - as far as i know. The manual says the parking lights will flash when i push the * twice to activate R/S - they do not.

All the satellite relay constant 12V wire's are all powered and getting enough juice.

I'm trying to play stupid here get all the possible answers...

What could BE any problem for the Remote Start not work?!



Replies:

Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 9:18 PM
What did you connect the BLACK/ white wire on the 5 pin harness to? It needs to see a ground (for neutral safety switch)

I am assuming automatic transmission.

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: another-kelly
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 9:48 PM
like gus1 said about the small BLACK/ white wire, it needs to see ground. also, disconnect your small gray wire. many people don't adjust it so it just sees ground which will keep the RS from working. the hood pin needs to be open circuit to work, ground to shut down/not work




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 12:36 AM
Thanks for the input guys!

Yes, the BLACK/ White wire IS indeed connected to ground. I will double check of that ASAP. I have a feeling Zone 1 is being tripped and stopping the RS from triggering.

Sometimes when I unlock the car, the hood and door blink and tell me they're "open/opened."

Grey I disconnect the hood pin, well just cut it hahah. Still nothing, when i unlock, it occasionaly tells me the hood/door was opened/is open...




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 8:35 AM
It's best to verify everything with your test light or meter, instead of just visually.

Since the doorlocks work, you know your remote and antenna must be both good.

There should be only three things that would prevent the remote starter from activating:

1. Hood open. Even though you already cut the wire, put your tester to the grey wire right where it enters the brain, and test that it doesn't have ground.

2. Safety switch is off. Put your tester to the BLACK/ white wire where it enters the brain, and make sure it has ground.

3. Brake on. Put your tester to the small brown wire where it enters the brain, and make sure it's NOT getting power with the brake pedal off.




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 11:40 AM
Thanks, Chris. I'm going to try that, right now.

My door trigger wire is connected the dome light power, which turns on with any door open. It JUMPS on, but fades out... I think this might be a problem, for some reason. Should I find a better door trigger?

If so, what? I will check that the safeties are not being tripped, right now.




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 11:59 AM

If you have the door trigger hooked up to the dome light then you need to turn off the bypass chirp.  It should be in the second menu of your programming, option five.  that might be the reason your getting the notification that your door is open. 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 12:03 PM
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS.

I love you guys, i dont even know you. :) Man, i'm STUPID!

I did have the neutral safety see ground! Man i'm an IDIOT!!!

Great call Chris, i knew it was something stupid like that! :)

Remote start works, and my starter engages. Engine does not start. i may have the wrong ignition wire attatched. Will research now. :)

Another question. :)

Is it important that the Factory Arm and Disarm is connected? Or is that for people that JUST install remote start.




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 12:29 PM
Sorry about having so many posts:

Remote start engages, powers starter, but does not start the vehicle.

The vehicle DOES start with the keys in the run position. This tells me that my ignition wire is hooked up wrong/improperly.

Should I have Ignition 2 hooked up in my 99 Honda Accord?

The Wiring diagram from here claims it's ignition 3!

Ignition 3      WHITE/ Black        Power this or ABS Light on Remote Starter





Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 12:52 PM
Hahah sorry again for another post but update:

Car starts with the KEY in the vehicle, in the "pull out" position. So all the way back, where i'm able to pull the key out, is where it will allow the car to start.

The Car will NOT start without thinking the key is in the ignition.

I must now find THIS wire that shows 12V when the keys in the ignition, and hook that up to ignition 2, am i correct?

Thank you guys so much in advance for your help, you're life savers. :)




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 9:55 PM
You don't mention using a bypass module for the immobilizer - all Accords '98 and up have transponder keys. Check out BypassKit.

If the green key light on the dash is flashing while it's trying and failing to remote start, your problem is that you don't have a bypass or it isn't connected/programmed correctly.

If you've properly installed a bypass module(i.e. the key light comes on solid for a second when the ignition powers up and then goes out), your issue is most likely tach/voltage sensing not working properly.

Provided that your pink ignition wire from the DEI piece is connected to the BLACK / YELLOW on the car, you can rule that out as the cause; also you can probably ignore the keysense wire, I've never done a Honda where it mattered.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 20, 2008 at 2:33 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:

You don't mention using a bypass module for the immobilizer - all Accords '98 and up have transponder keys. Check out BypassKit.

If the green key light on the dash is flashing while it's trying and failing to remote start, your problem is that you don't have a bypass or it isn't connected/programmed correctly.

If you've properly installed a bypass module(i.e. the key light comes on solid for a second when the ignition powers up and then goes out), your issue is most likely tach/voltage sensing not working properly.

Provided that your pink ignition wire from the DEI piece is connected to the BLACK / YELLOW on the car, you can rule that out as the cause; also you can probably ignore the keysense wire, I've never done a Honda where it mattered.


Pink wire from the Remote Start satilite? So you're saying instead of trying to hunt down the keysense wire, just spend the 3.99+shipping on ebay for the bypass module?

Will the 555i be sufficient?




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 20, 2008 at 2:36 AM
Ooops, premature post:

I do not have a bypass module. I plan on ordering the 555i




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 12:04 AM

Hopefully you haven't ordered yet...AFAIK the 555H is the correct older DEI piece and the 555I won't work for your car - I think it worked on Civics or TLs. Boy are they cheap on eBay! Probably b/c DEI has phased them out in favor of the Bypasskit pieces - however that works out for you b/c you can get a cheap bypass.

The immobilizer has nothing to do with the keysense wire - the keysense wire only has effect on the reminder chime and the power locks(it won't let you lock the doors if they're open and the key's in the ignition).

If you want a detailed explanation you can read my sticky about immobilizers, but the long and short of it is that you'd need a bypass module regardless.



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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 1:10 PM
thank you chris. :)

I did not order the 555i instead I ordered the 555h. I read through the PDF filesfrom directed before perchasing. 555h was 5$ more unfortunetly. So for 10+5S&H, I got me an immobilized bypass. I then ordered two piezo sirens for fun. :)

I will be installing a starter kill relay once I figure out exactly how they work. Does the "ground when armed" wire DEGROUND when the remote start I'd activeted?

My fear is that I will have a functional starter kill, but it will disable/not allow the remote start to function normaly. What is the remedy for this, if one?

Thank you so much everyone.




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 1:26 PM

Just a reminder...you do know that the 5900 does have a starter kill!  Don't see why you would need two!  Unless it's just your preference to have two!



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 21, 2008 at 8:07 PM
As joch1314 mentions - the 5900 has a starter kill/anti-grind feature built into the relay satellite, and an extra starter kill relay is completely pointless. The starter wire should be interrupted by the relay satellite and nothing else.

An external starter kill relay could be connected on the key side of where the remote start output is connected, but...again, it's completely pointless with this alarm.


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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 2:54 AM
Oh! Wow! Really?

Didn't realize this! :)

Thanks!!

There is no other Relay that i have to add in anywhere to have the anti-grind/starterkill to work? That confuses me, because the starter output from the ignition is never interupted...

I"ll think it though, see if i can figure it out... haha

Thanks!



I want to make my own window-roll-up-when-armed "module" I have a few drawings on how i want to do this. I'll post a picture/schematic soon. I plan on using channel 4 (up) and 5 (down) outputs to control relays to control the window motors.




Posted By: crvz
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 10:02 AM
do you have a theft-bypass unit on this car? if so, you'll need some sort of transponder that mimics the theft security feature in the key to enable the car to start without a key in the cylinder?




Posted By: crvz
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 10:07 AM
crvz] wrote:

do you have a theft-bypass unit on this car? if so, you'll need some sort of transponder that mimics the theft security feature in the key to enable the car to start without a key in the cylinder?


Oops! didnt see the second page. Clearly folks have beat me to the answer. I've got an 06 accord and ordered stuff from bypasskits.com, which helped me quite a bit, but looks like you're on the right track. good luck with the rest of the install!!




Posted By: crvz
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 10:14 AM
npatzke wrote:

I want to make my own window-roll-up-when-armed "module" I have a few drawings on how i want to do this. I'll post a picture/schematic soon. I plan on using channel 4 (up) and 5 (down) outputs to control relays to control the window motors.


Well third time's a charm, I guess. Why would you make your own module? The DEI 530T is not that expensive, and its safety features have surely got to be more reliable than something that you make yourself. I believe it measures load resistance to determine when the window is up or down, with changeable settings. Maybe you've got something up your sleeve to determine this, but setting up a timer is not the best of choices. I guess your other option is just to have the window move only while holding down the remote button, but the $30-$40 for a 530T is well worth it in my limited experience.




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 11:00 AM

Just Curious...what did you do with the purple and the green wires, because you do interrupt the starter wire with those two.  That's the way you get the starter kill hooked up.  Cut the starter wire...in this case you cut it after the fuse box as stated in the tech info, then go about hooking up the purple wire to the starter side of the wire and the green wire to the key side(fuse box in this case) of the wire.  Test the wire, but it should be the BLACK/ white wire.  if this is incorrect, somebody will correct it but i'm pretty sure that's what you need to do.

StarterBLACK/ White Cut after Fuse Panel, not at Ignition Switch 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 1:50 PM
Nothing personal, but the wiring info in the previous post is wrong. The BLACK/ white starter wire should be cut BETWEEN the key switch and the fusebox, not fusebox and starter(this causes a check engine light).

Directwire and my personal experience verify that.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: npatzke
Date Posted: April 24, 2008 at 1:00 AM
Chris:

I have to double check the way I have things wired. But right now, i do not know which color from the Remote Start relay i have attatched to the starter wire but the starter wire is NEVER interupted... it was cut, but spliced back together, just with another wire from the relay...

I think i understand what you're saying though. I'll look into that..

crvz:

Yeah, thats true. I enjoy the good feeling after accomplishing something like that. I may/probly will end up just buying the module... :( :)




I tested the Viper 5900's range this afternoon on the Airpark's runway. I was able to get .6 mi... not bad, but not what's advertised. The runway had a bump in it, killing my line of sight, but still, i feel that I should be able to get a mile out of it. :) I'm gonna play with antenna positions.





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