window and sunroof wiring info ’06 accord
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104194
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 12:00 AM
Topic: window and sunroof wiring info ’06 accord
Posted By: crvz
Subject: window and sunroof wiring info ’06 accord
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 6:43 PM
Hey folks, I've found the alarm info for a 2006 honda accord, but I'm hoping to add a pair of 530Ts for the windows and a 529T for the sunroof. Does anyone have the wiring info? I imagine I'll get the windows in the drivers door at the switch, but the switch for the sunroof does not have motor wires available, and I've not bothered to go hunting yet. Any pointers would be great! Thanks.
Replies:
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: April 22, 2008 at 10:46 PM
What do you mean by "the switch does not have motor wires available"? Open is grey Tilt is lt.green Close or tilt down is green These are found at the switch, they are negative trigger. My notes do not say latched, or pulsed. So test them. -------------
Posted By: crvz
Date Posted: April 23, 2008 at 7:33 AM
KarTuneMan wrote:
What do you mean by "the switch does not have motor wires available"?
Open is grey
Tilt is lt.green
Close or tilt down is green These are found at the switch, they are negative trigger. My notes do not say latched, or pulsed. So test them.
I havent gotten that far to testing them, it's my wife's car and I havent spent a ton of time pulling it apart yet, but the 529T instructions indicate that it should be hooked up at the motor, not at the switch. If you know better, I'm all ears!
But knowing that I have to hold the button down during sunroof travel in any direction, does this indicates the switch is validity (per DEI definition) as opposed to latched? I assumed, based on my weak understanding of how the 529T works, that I'd want to utilize the safety shutoff capability built into the module to operate the sunroof, which would require hooking it up to the sunroof motor and not the switch.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 23, 2008 at 3:12 PM
It depends on what exactly you're trying to do here. Do you want to open and close the windows/sunroof with one press of the remote? Or do you want to be able to hold the remote and release it with windows/sunroof partially open?
In the first case - the 529T/530T needs connected at all the motor wires. I don't have info on the sunroof; however the wires should be available at the sunroof motor under the headliner. Windows will need to be connected in each door - this car uses data signals from the master window switch to the 3 other door switches.
If you want to operate the windows manually via remote, you can probably do without the modules...you will need to have 2 validity channels available (validity meaning the output lasts as long as you're holding the button on the remote). The outputs will need to be connected to the driver's door key cylinder wires, and also to the sunroof switch. Additionally you'll need a relay to supply power or ground to the sunroof switch and possibly the sunroof control module.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: crvz
Date Posted: April 23, 2008 at 9:28 PM
Ah, thanks Chris! That will complicate things, as I want to use just pulse triggers to roll the windows up and down, but it's good to know ahead of time. Maybe now I'll have to drop the head liner and soundproof the roof... don't give me ideas like that! So another question... has anyone used the prox sensor to be another trigger to roll windows up? I hooked everything up on the bench, and it seemed to work, but here's what I've got. First, I use the door lock trigger to roll the windows up when armed (though I don't know if it was necessary, I turned on the Comfort Control option on the Viper 5900, which sends a ground signal on the lock wire for 20 seconds after the last lock pulse). I diode isolated the door lock output, and then tied the blue wire coming out of the 508D to the same input on the 529T. When I got close, the relays in the 529T would click, but not having it hooked up I'm not certain how well it would work. It'll surely be something I'll be testing a lot, though! Anybody have insight into that?
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