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remote start 06 town and country

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104521
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 11:36 AM


Topic: remote start 06 town and country

Posted By: akwormy
Subject: remote start 06 town and country
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 4:55 PM

Hi folks - just a warning I am a DIY'er here trying to gauge this project before I tackle it.  Any help is appreciated.

Getting rid of the wife's 03 suburban due to gas prices. Picking up an 06 town and country.

I'm electrically skilled enough to tackle the job if and only if I have the right documentation - I did one in my old 01 silverado with passlock II (I think it was II) and it took me a while (slow and careful) but I managed just fine. My local installer was incredibly helpful with that - talking me through it, giving me printouts etc. I live in a different town now and I haven't talked much with the installer here. I plan to, but thought you might be able to help.

Anyway the project is to take the 2-way astrostart (unsure of model since I haven't poked my head under there yet) off the suburban and put it on the minivan.

Question 1 - anything particularly huge that I need to know in order to remove it from the 'burbon? Is it just a simple removal with some splicing back together wires that were cut to install? (passlock bypass is the only thing cut I imagine?)  If it's simple to pull off and I can get it done in the next couple of days then I can take my time with the new car (as long as it's done before winter my wife will be happy!)

Question 2 - I did some digging on this site and it looks like the mini-van install is somewhat involved. Is it something a DIYer can do and is there a way for me to get all the instructions and tech documents I would need? (I see some references to directfax docs and I understand you need a customer ID to get those) Obviously getting the right info without paying is the idea here...I'm doing the vehicle swap to save money and buying a new remote start hurts the savings...sorry for being cheap, sign of the times I guess!

A few things I don't know - will the remote start unit even "fit" the new car. I assume so but that might be me oversimplifying. (gas engine auto trans to gas engine auto trans).  I'll have to answer that once I get the model number I guess.

I wouldn't need the passlock module on the suburban, but I understand I would need a transponder bypass module for the town & country? I assume these are brand specific and I would need the proper one from astroflex for my remote starter model? The one I browsed to was a cut off key in a box type...is this the best way to go? (or maybe the only way to go?)

I think I would like to operate the minivan with only a single fob...so I'd like to have the remote start fob do the power sliding doors and liftgate - is this possible? Not worth the effort?

Is there a kit or anything that would give me everything I need for an install (relays, resistors, diodes etc)... or is it just normal radioshack stuff once you have the remote starter and bypass module?

I guess this van has knee airbags - is this a concern for the untrained during an install on this minivan? I have set a few airbanks off (used to do GM parts and we'd send back bad ones from the bodyshop etc. and had to pop them first) so I know I don't want to toy with blowing one up in my face!

I've only got a couple days to make a decision (before I hand over the suburban to the dealer) so speedy replies are greatly appreciated! Thanks!




Replies:

Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 6:04 PM

found a couple 'install guides' for astroflex models in the downloads section...anxious to get my model # info now





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 7:08 PM

wow lots of questions. i will do my best to answer them

Question 1 - its a simple removal. If you purchase a data bypass kit (recomended) you will never run into issues with your car not starting because old methods such as relays and resistors dont work too well.

Question 2 - any car can be a DIY if you have enough info.also it depends on your ability and knowlege of electrical systems; you dont need to know much, but little will go a long way. Check out the https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html section for your car and make. THe wiring is same as directfax. just directfax has images to guide you, but unless your a dealer, you wont have access to that stuff.

any remote start will wonk on any car if its auto. There are units designed specifically for manual tranny, but this is not your case. So virtually ANY unit will work on any car. It just depends on the immobilizer system it may have. heres a good read about immobilizer systems made by chriswallace. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~100917~PN~1

the van does use a RF transponder system. There are many bypass modules out there and you dont need a SPECIFIC BRAND for it to work with your astro unit. you can pick from the following companies.

Omega (trixlogic), Fortin, Bypasskits, iDataLink. any of those will work. checking on their websites will show what is best for your install.

www.bypasskits.com
www.ifar.ca
www.idatalink.com

put in your info about your make and model and differant kits will pop up.

this is totally possible (hoping that the unit has many aux channels) you can do anything as long as the unit has the supported aux and wire location/colour. you will end up buying a few relays unless you

there are some bypass kits such as idatalink that will do doorlocks (resistor), MUX wire (muliplex system), sliding power doors, liftgate, door/hatch triggers, and Factory alarm arm and disarm through the DATA wire. kits like these cost more but they get the job done quicker.

not sure about the airbag issue, maybe some1 can shed more light on this.

any astro units are solid units. if you ever run into problems, KarTuneMan is the man to ask questions. He deals mostly with astro units.

hope i helped.





Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 8:17 PM

thanks- that does help! (I know the number of questions got away from me - happens sometimes!)  I think it's a 4204 looking at the remotes on a website, but I'll get the model info.

Thanks for the word on a simple removal - I thought it should be straightforward. One question though - Is the "data bypass kit" comment meant to be addressed towards my removal question or does that apply to the install on the minivan? (I suspect it is on the install, just making sure). I think on the removal I'm only 'harvesting' four components - the remote start unit itself, the passlock bypass module, the antenna, and the hood switch - do I have that right? There's nothing else to resurrecting the passlock functions other than reconnecting a cut wire or two?

I looked at the vehicles page for electrical info - only found an 05 t&c and it shows 'stereo' and 'alarm' links (but the alarm link actually starts with a post for a 2004). Can anyone verify that this really is 05 info and that it would work for me on this 06?

I did read that immobilizer page - great info...unfortunately it is sounding to me like the keys for this van (we're waiting for it to be brought up from the dealer's sister store) are the expensive kind with all the fob buttons integrated with the key....so I think need to stay away from the universal bypass and stick with a no extra key required type. Also cold is a major issue here - see colder than - 50*F (yes minus 50*) so I need one unaffected by cold.  I did go the first link you suggested and after putting in make and model and year I got a fairly long list that I didn't have much luck sifting through to find the "right" unit. I will go check the other links you provided.

I am comfortable with my electrical skills (and direction following skills!)...just not my vehicle or system specific knowledge. I had a lot of info when I did my old silverado since I worked at a GM dealer at the time.





Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 3:03 AM

Well I got it out! It was a piece of cake once I got through the first five minutes...you installers bury and hide those puppies well!

I looked on the back and it's got a model number QS-2W on it - is this even an astrostart? (the remote is). Oh and it has another module/box unit that I don't know what it is! It's connected to P16 OEM Alarm Control - is this something I need on the town and country?

Of course it has a passlock module (III) that I don't need right? It would be great if it were something that might be of use at the local installer (maybe in trade for some install guides/photos/wiring info etc?!?!?)

I guess now I'd like some advice on which bypass module to pick up for it? I think I do want one that will do it all (power sliding door, liftgate, power locks, anything else like rear defrost? it doesn't have memory or heated seats so nothing there) I'm interested in professional opinions here - what do you folks recommended? I found this unit "PATS-Chrysler-04+" and it looks to be full featured as does the ADS-DLSL CH3.  (found on the IFAR and Idatalink sites respectively). Or should I just find the astro start unit?

It would be a huge help if I can get the install manual for the remote start so I can figure out what programming settings I need and how to make them. Actually I don't see how I can go on without it!  Like I said I'm going to try and visit my local installer and see if they can print me some stuff, but I'm not sure how much help they'll give me. I've bought two remote starts from them but I've never gone in with a DIY question I just don't know their attitude...some installers are a little less than accomodating on that. (which I can understand to some degree - getting boneheads out there mucking things up and associating your good name with it!)

I'd still love to hear specifics on how to install on this town and country. Wiring info for the van is still a little sketchy - the vehicle section of this site has an 05 town & country - like I said that post actually says 04...but the link says 05. Then there is an 06 caravan - I assume this should match the town & country, but I'm not sure...stranger things have been done by dealers! 

Never owned a dodge product so I'm not familiar with the odd things this manufacturer may do...

That knee bolster airbag has me concerned as well (respect the big boom!) any info on that would be great. Also anything lovey with dodge products on disconnect the battery? Just pull the negative terminal off and no worries? Won't wipe programming on the fob's or anything strange?

Thanks in advance for the help, I appreciate it!





Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 7:01 AM
The airbag will drop down after unbolting it. Just lay it on the floor unplugged during the installation....

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 10:59 AM

Thanks Mike - so I'm clear, do you unplug the airbag with the battery connected or disconnected? How about plugging it back in after install? What about testing while the airbag is out, any issues with turning the ignition on while the airbag is disconnected?

I did some searches on "knee airbag" on this site and the opinions are split close to 50/50 - half saying it's unsafe to even fart in their general direction and the other half saying just unbolt them and lay them dwon or disconnect them and lay them down.





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 6:58 PM
disconnect batt, disconnect airbag and work. when your done, connect the airbag then reconnect the battery.




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 7:40 PM

Thanks tedmond - guess I could have just said "hold my beer and watch this!"...and pulled it off and waited for the boom, but I'd rather do it the right way. Thanks for the advice.

Sounds like after some searching the BCM is the place to make most connections on this van. Is that in the left kick behind the airbag?

Any other tips on this rig?

I'm still searching for three things if anyone can help.

1) install manual for astrostart 4204 (the sticker says QS-2W is this a 4204?) at a minimum the programming levels and procedures

2) wiring diagram for an 06 t&c or can anyone confirm that the 06 caravan on the vehicles section of this site is the same for the chrysler version?

3) I can pick a bypass module, but would sure appreciate some suggestions from those of you that put these in and troubleshoot them when something goes goofy.

Thanks for all the help!





Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 09, 2008 at 4:50 PM
With regards to the airbag - I would suggest waiting at least 5 minutes after you've disconnected the battery before you disconnect the airbag.
They have a backup power supply built into the airbag control module which needs to discharge.

That wiring info looks good as far as I can figure.

I would recommend an XK532 with firmware CHDL6 from Bypasskit - it does doorlock control, doorpin status, transponder bypass, and power sliding doors and liftgate if the van has those features and the Astrostart has 2 auxiliary channels.
The only kind of bypass that is impervious to cold would be one that overrides the transponder via data, and no one makes that kind for Chrysler. However I haven't had any issues with insufficient Bypasskit transponder strength on a Chrysler. In the event that would happen in your area at 50 below, you could always create a transponder heater with a light bulb and a pulse timer relay.

FYI, this isn't really related to your install but you can get regular gray head blank SentryKeys programmed to your car if you want an extra emergency key...you can even do that yourself easily if you've already got 2 working keys.

BCM is kind of a pain to reach - it's behind the dash with about 5 connectors. I think it might only have 2 bolts IIRC but I don't remember it pulling down easily with bolts removed. Ignition connections can be made at the switch. If you use the XK 532 the only wire left at the BCM would probably be the parking lights, which can be made at that switch also.

I prefer to run an 18-gauge wire to the battery for my constant power since the ign. switch has a low current supply. Fuse it at the battery.



-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: May 12, 2008 at 3:16 AM

Thanks for the airbag tip Chris. Just a clarification - which wiring looked ok? The 06 caravan page or that funky 05 t&c? (thanks)

I got the cold weather tip from your document on bypasses - So the bypass you recommended (X532) is an RF specific bypass not a data bypass since I guess they don't make a data kit for this vehicle? So while I won't need to cut up a key I may still find a transponder issue in cold weather - ok guess that's as good as I can do!

Is the procedure to program a gray key instead of the expensive key with the FOB in the owners manual or can you post it for me easily? (I might find it with the search tool, but I haven't looked yet) I do have two working keys.

Ok so I'm fine to get most of the connections at a normal spot (near the appropriate switch - ignition, headlamp, brake, etc) with the exception of a simple plus 12v that I can run a small gauge wire straight to the battery. Perfect!

So now I've know what to do with the airbag, have a bypass to order, found the right wiring diagram (06 caravan on the vehicle page of this site sounds like the right one), and now all I need is an install guide. My local installer closes before I get off work so I haven't made it there yet to see if they can get it for me.

So does anyone have an install manual for me? (oh and is my "QS-2W" really an astro 4204?)  A post here or an email or a pm - I could even give you a fax number for something from you or from faxback....I just can't even attempt this install without the documentation since I have no idea on the program settings and all that...thanks!





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: May 12, 2008 at 6:25 AM

well an RF transponder system is basically data. Info is in the key and it is read by the cars transponder ring. when you purchase a bypass, the bypass you get will learn the transponder code from the key. When you start it, the DATA from the bypass will go to the cars computer and voila, it works.  it will always start 100% in cold weather.

you must have two valid keys (with fobs) the gray one is the valet key. that key works if you willing to stash it away in your dash. this is the older style method known as KEY-IN-BOX.

look up the driver side, there is a small firewall hole there enough for yowu to run a 12 - 16 gague wire through for your alarm/rs.

bypasses, there are up and downs to how you purchase them. if you get it at a shop, they can flash it for you and if you run into problms they can always exchange it. If you get it on ebay, its cheaper, but if something goes wrong, your stuck.

if you need astro information, your best bet would be to PM KarTuneMan. He deals with astro alot and should be able to get you some documents.





Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: May 12, 2008 at 9:28 AM

Use the PURPLE / red at the top plug of the BCM for 12v. Plenty strong. Fuse as close to this connection as you can.

If you want the install guide PM me your email address.

What ever "bypass module" you get, get one that does everything, not just transponder bypass.



-------------




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 22, 2008 at 11:00 PM

well I'm going with the xk532 bypass module - still looking for a vendor and may end up going with crutchfield if I can't find a cheaper place with a good reputation. But that's another issue!

Question - Do the lock, unlock, trunk release, and door sense trigger wires on the bypass have to be connected or does that 'data' wire run all of that without messing with individual wires.

If I have to hook them up I've got more quesitons! Like what I do with the door sense trigger? The instructions show the trigger wire on the bypass going to the RS. I'm just confused because the bypass instructions show the trigger wire going from the bypass to the remote start and I don't have a trigger wire listed on the remote start.





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: July 23, 2008 at 9:15 AM
maybe if you tell us where you live, you might have a local shop member here that can help you get the bypass you need for a decent price.




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 23, 2008 at 11:48 AM

I hate to have two threads going, but I'm in Fairbanks AK...main installer here just does the RF bypass and then as needed tackles the rest of the functions with relays, resistors, diodes etc...they don't stock or order the fully featured bypass unit. (my guess is most people don't go for the extra expense of having all the remote doors work etc...)

I did find out that crutchfield will sell me the bypass and let me order, use, and then return the loader so I can flash it. Pretty good deal compared to having to buy a loader for a one time use. Of course the bypass itself isn't a good deal but...

Still hoping for an idea how the bypass actually works - I've looked at the install guide for it and it shows wires hooked up for lock, unlock, door sense trigger, trunk release, etc...do these get hooked up or is all of that done through the data wire?

Thanks all - I've gotten some really good help on this forum and it's much appreciated.





Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: July 23, 2008 at 12:29 PM
The unlock/lock/door trigger/trunk just get connected from the XK532 to the remote starter's respective wires. Not a whole lot to it. The data wire sends that info back and forth from the XK532 to the car.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 23, 2008 at 2:48 PM

thanks again chris - that's kind of my issue though, I don't see door trigger or lock unlock wires on this astro 4204...

it has internal relays for lock unlock - do I connect the bypass wires to one pin (87, 87A, or 30?) and then connect the vehicle lock/unlock wire (it's the same wire) to another pin (87, 87A, or 30?)  Or do I have to use one of the programmable leads on the RS? (would that then be pulse before, after, or one of the other settings?)

same for door sense trigger - there is one on the vehicle and one on the bypass but no door sense trigger on the 4204...another programmable lead? (what type of programming?)

sorry if these are strange questions....just a little more help and I'll be all over it!





Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: July 24, 2008 at 2:46 PM
I've never installed Astro but after reading their manuals that have been uploaded to the12volt.com I'm a bit confused about the door trigger.
If the one you're installing isn't an alarm, however, it may just not have a door trigger input in which case you can ignore that wire from the bypass module. Door trigger isn't really necessary for keyless or RS.

As far as the lock/unlock - 87's to ground, 87a's to nothing, and 30's to the respective wires on the bypass.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 24, 2008 at 2:50 PM

terrific info - I'm starting to get it, thanks!

So bypass lock wire goes to 30 on the internal lock relay on the RS  -

But I'm not seeing a complete communications loop, doesn't something need to go from the RS to the vehicle to finish that control circuit? In other words don't I need to connect the lock wire of the vehicle (also the unlock wire on this t&c) to the RS unit?

Thanks again for the help





Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: July 24, 2008 at 2:58 PM
The data wire connected at the OBD-II plug controls the doorlocks.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 24, 2008 at 3:23 PM

ok ok, I was wondering just how much that DATA wire did, perfect!

I think I got mixed up on the function of the bypass, for some reason I thought it was telling the remote start to unlock...but it's the other way around - the remote start tells the bypass to unlock and it tells the vehicle through the data wire...I'm with you now!

So let me see if I have this right for another system - say trunk release (hatch actually I guess) I just take the trunk release wire from the bypass, to one of the open programmable outs and I'm done - control to the vehicle happens via the data wire?

In this case programmable output #3 is defaulted to trunk release so I should use it

How about sliding doors? Left sliding door wire from the bypass goes to another programmable out on the RS - what program would I set that to? Available options look like -

I don't think it's any of these (pulse before start, pulse after shutdown, ground while running, park lights, pulse after startup, pulse on 2nd unlock, ignition, starter, pulse after ignition off, dome light, or ground when locked)

that leaves these as possibilities - accessory, trunk release or utility 1 (but we've already used trunk release so I guess that is out)





Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 24, 2008 at 5:15 PM

actually looking at the bypass instructions (and the right software version) I see a special diode wiring setup for sliding doors and hatch...(figure 2 here) https://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=578

looks like you connnect the left slider wire (pink) on the bypass to an AUX out on RS then;

connect the right side slider wire (orange) on the bypass to another AUX out on the RS

Then you diode isolate each sliding door wire (pink and orange) and join them - this new left/right "combo" wire goes to the trunk release on the RS

apparently the bypass is set for a negative pulse on one wire to open that door, negative pulse on the other wire to open the opposite door, and a negative pulse on both wires to trigger the trunk/hatch release

I've got four programmable outs, so this should be easy.

The only thing I have yet to figure out is what option I should program those AUX outs on the RS for to control these doors.





Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: July 24, 2008 at 7:28 PM

A few easy questions I'm sure -

  • I don't think the bypass does park lights is that right? Which is preferred - negative trigger with diode and resistor or can you just use the positive wire? (looks like maybe there is left and right on the positive wire though...) "Parking Lights + WHITE/ brn (L), WHITE/ org (R)"
  • How about the horn - wiring info doesn't indicate horn on this vehicle is low power, so tapping the horn switch wire should be fine?
  • One more - thinking of using the programmable relay (P5) on the RS to trigger defrost, but no wiring info on the vehicle wiring page (06 caravan). anyone have info on what wire, where, and how to run it? (assuming if it's negative trigger like the doors it would be 87 to ground and 30 to the existing relay if I can get to it?)




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: July 25, 2008 at 1:34 PM
Your horn wire should be low current and hence a direct connection will work.

For parking lights you could use the multiplex wire from the switch, or tap onto the parking light relay's control terminal.

For defrost I did a van like yours once and just used the control terminal from the defroster relay, which is in the underhood fusebox.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: August 01, 2008 at 11:12 AM

Well I got my XK532 and have flashed to CHDL6 3.0

going to tackle the install this weekend

I think the only thing I still need help with is what settings to use when setting up the programmable outs on the remote start for controlling power sliding doors and defroster.





Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: August 01, 2008 at 11:44 AM
oops one more - is there by chance a hood trigger that I can tap instead of installing the switch that came with the autostart?




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: August 01, 2008 at 7:31 PM
Driver's side fender under the hood - there will be a bracket about halfway up. If there's a factory hood pin switch there, you might could wire into it. If not, you can use the bracket to mount your own switch.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: August 02, 2008 at 1:46 AM

yep that's the same spot I picked...

Chris a couple things on earlier comments -

you said multiplex wire at the switch? Any idea which? The wiring diagram here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~85738 shows a left wire and a right wire - I'm seeing those coded wires at the switch so not sure what to tap.

Defroster relay - wow I got a rude surprise here. Nothing in the underhood fusebox on defrost - looked in the manual and it says there is nothing serviceable and that they are in the center dash pod (with the climate controls, radio etc) I took a few panels off to attempt to find something with no luck. If there in there and there's an easy way to get to it I'd love some advice!

Any good ground location suggestions? I see a bolt with a bunch of grounds attached to it on the under side of the dash behind the park switch - tought to get to but is looking like a good spot - unless theres a better one or a reason not to tie to those.





Posted By: akwormy
Date Posted: August 03, 2008 at 12:20 AM

I've got a few problems, hopefully someone can help with some advice

no go on transponder bypass - the 532 module is defective (thinks it is a platform 3 instead of a 532 and won't take 532 firmware CHDL6+3.00)

Lock and unlock - the functions are backwards. Hit lock on the remote and the van unlocks and hit unlock and it locks. Double checked wiring "87's to ground, 87a's to nothing, and 30's to the respective wires on the bypass"

so I thought the bypass was simply wired backwards...wouldn't surprise me so far...

swapped wires and same results - backwards function

  • Why the backwards lock / unlock functions?

Also I got no results from hatch release or either side power sliding door. I wired them as shown in the firmware wiring guide (here https://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=578)

I realized that I don't know what buttons on the 4 button remote to push to operate trunk release and the other programmable outputs. I pushed lots of buttons and got no results, but theoretically they may be working and I didn't push the right buttons.

  • Can anyone tell me what button combos to use on the remote for programmable outs 1, 2, and 3?





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