pkt issue 2002 is300

Hey guys...

2002 Lexus IS300, i got the remote starter working fine, however after I remote start, do a key-takeover ... then shut the car off, I hear a clicking from the EFI relay in the engine compartment .. it's a steady click click click (about 3 clicks a second) and constant.  When I start the car manually with the key, the clicking goes away, the car starts beautifully, no problems.  Then, when I take the key out, the clicking resumes.

When I disconnect the PKT from the harness, the clicking also goes away.  Any thoughts?  Could it be a bad PKT unit?

Other than this issue, it remote starts fine, and manually starts just fine.  Kinda weird, huh?

Thanks

PS .. what's the preferred bypass (no key required) module for the 2002 IS300 among you guys?

Thanks Chris,

I ordered a new PKT from bypasskits ... will re-check the wiring.  Only two of the OEM immobilizer harness wires needed to be cut, with a pink/white wire going in one direction and a pink wire going in another .. also a violet/white and violet wire doing a similar thing.

It's strange that the immobilzer bypass would function perfectly when remote starting, however, but then cause this EFI relay clicking.  Also, the factory key manually starting the vehicle also starts just fine as well.

Ohh, I know this one.  Kicked my butt - and it was snowing out.

Disconnect the keysence output from the PKT unit, thats whats causing it.  Diode isolate your ignition 3 output(status wire) and connect the status wire to both your PKT and keysence.

Frank

Flobee4 --- you rock!

I THOUGHT it was weird that the immobilizer bypass would work and occasionally there would even be NO clicking at that EFI relay ...

I'll try it out this week and report back to you, i have a good feeling about this one.

Thanks again

Yeah, The no clicking is how I figured it out.  It would stop clicking when the key was inserted in the key cylinder, If I remember right. I started checking what was hooked up to the keysense wire. It was the PKT. I disconnected it and the clicking went away! So, the I hooked up the keysense the old fashion way with the ignition 3 wire and diodes. It took me a LONG time to realize what made it click and what didn't.  That clicking noise sure did scare the hell out of me though!!

On a side note, the next Toyota I did, I couldn't get the PKT to program unless I had that keysense wire from the PKT hooked up. It drove me crazy with that gas pedal/brake pushing. After I reattached the PKT to the keysense & got it programmed I just disconnected it and hooked up my ignition 3 wire.

Frank

Frank,

When you say "ignition 3" wire .. are you referring to the Status output wire (-)  ...OR... the ignition (-250mA) output wire  (both come off the CN2 harness of the Compustar 4200 brain) ...

I was thinking i could connect the STATUS (-) (purple) wire from the CS4200 to the PKT's status input; then I could connect the ignition (-250mA) output from the CS4200 to the Lexus keysense wire .. would this work?

Or, should i take the purple STATUS (-) output wire from the CS4200 and diode isolate and send one branch to the PKT status input and one branch to the Lexus keysense wire?

Thanks again

The units I use only have one output and I have diode isolate it to split it to 2.  If both your status output and ignition(-250ma) have output both during ignition and crank then you will be golden. Obviously the ignition(-250) will have it, the status might be programmable.  The other thing I think of is if you use ignition on the keysense wire, that the status might come on a few seconds before ignition and the factory alarm "might" sound for a second.  If thats the case just switch them.  I'm pretty sure you will be fine using those 2 outputs though.

Frank

Finally got around to posting some feedback re: this issue:

i tooks Frank's advice:

I ran the PKT2's keysense (-) output wire directly to the keysense wire -- but the dashboard bell would intermittently keep ringing .. as if it was getting a weak ground signal that would trip it off occasionally .. so I used a relay, and relayed the PKT2's keysense output (-) ground to the keysense wire (BLACK / YELLOW) triggered off the purple (CN2) compustar starter-kill (-) wire.  This resolved the intermittent bell going off...

Then I sent the ground (-) input on the PKT2 to chassis ground.  I then connected the PKT2's status (-) input to the status output from the (CN2) compustar (black wire).  Remote started and it worked like a charm... when the car is shut off, no "clicking." Works flawlessly now.

I also installed one of those Grom Audio/Ipod boxes to the back of the 6-disc CD changer/stereo and it works like a charm on this model Lexus... Customer can surf his ipod by pressing track up/down on his steering wheel.

my prefered bypass is keyoverride all

does all ford and most toyota

all wires at the keycylinder and have woked 100% flawless

no returns