wiring an alarm

I have wired about 5 different alarmas before and have never had any problems. This time i bought a really cheap alarm from my friend which is called CNSAC. Some of the wires on the alarm diagram i have no idea where to connect them to. Here is a picture of the wiring diagrams, i labeled each wire with numbers on the alarm wiring diagram and letters on the car wiring diagram so it will be easier.
Ok so here is what i know:
1=k
3=l
8=h
9=r
10 = ground
11 = a
12 = j
13 = j

Here is what i dont know:
14,15,16,17,18,19

Here is what i dont think i need:
4,5,6,7 because that is just to shut off the engine in case of theft correct?
2 because i am using 3 since it is a negative door trigger



any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ok lets start from the beginning. The numbers that you arent sure of are mentioned at CH#. By looking at that along with the wire colors for each, I am about 80% sure that's for auxilary hookups. The CH# is for "channel number such and such". So for instance you can use one of the channels for a trunk release. If you want to install a window module, you would use one of those channels. Now dealing with your other questions, you are correct about using number 3. If your doors are negative polarity, then you use 3, not 2. Numbers 4-7 are the pins for a starter kill relay. A starter kill relay is not required but adds some protection. For instance, if your vehicle can be hot wired, then you will want to install a starter kill. The starter kill will prevent the car from being started as long as the alarm is armed. Ofcource thats only good as long as the alarm is not cut by a thief. In my case, I dont really need to have a starter kill relay. I say this because in order to start my car, you need the key reguardless. My car uses passlock 2 and the key is needed to start it.

Ah I forgot to mention numbers 18 and 19. Sorry. Ok those numbers are for your door lock and unlock. You will wire the relay up exactly as soon in the manual. I am not completly sure which color wire is for lock and which is for unlock. BUT with my alarm, I do have the same exact wire colors, so I will "assume" they are the same as yours. In that case, the blue wire is for unlocking and the green is for locking. You can try wiring it up that way but if they are wired backards (arming unlocks the doors and vise versa), just simply switch the wires. But just remember that is alittle more complicated then simply splicing those wires into your factory door wires. For instance, if your car has factory 2 stage door unlocking (meaning 1 push on the keypad unlocks drivers door and 2nd push unlocks all other doors) then you will need wire it up so that doesnt happen. This will ONLY be the case if you have a factory alarm/keyless entry with that feature. If not, then forget that section.

oh ok i see what you are saying, but there is a little issue. They gave me only one relay, but it shows that i need 2 of them. Why would they leave out the second relay if it is needed? I also remember the other alarms that i have installed, i used only 1 relay. Shouldn't i be able to get it to work with what was in the sealed box or do i need to go buy another relay?

Tell me if you need to see any other pictures of the alarm.

also on the car's wiring diagram about the doors lock and unlock, do i just do m and n or do i also have do wire o, p and q?

3 goes to L on the Honda diagramme. 18 and 19 go directly to M and N.  You won't need a relay. 7  on alarm goes directly to ign if you don't use the relay as an imob. 14-17 Only use if you want to run headlights etc  through a relay. 4 is your ground when armed to run window lifts etc. Can't see the point of 8 unless there was a remote start. 9 goes to red of siren, other side is grounded Door contact should be joined via diodes band away from alarm to trunk and hood, N.B. these are all at the factory alarm position.

I am surprised nobody has gotten confused with all these letters everyone is spitting out.

When you open up the door's, no matter if its the driver side door or a passenger door, does the domelight turn on?

ya the dome light turns on.

thank you so much for the help. so i don't need to do anything with the driver's lock, driver's unlock and passenger unlock?

They will unlock together, with what I see of your knowledge level don't try anything clever with dual stage unlocking, you would have to use the motor wires at each door entry and one or  two  relays for the unlocking (If I can be bothered to work it out, you probably need one for the drive side motor unlock wire - blue/red and one of your auxilliaries 14 to 17 to the unlock to do the other door/s GREEN/ orange.

i guess what i am trying to say is i don't need to hook those wires up right? I can just hook up m and n and they will lock and unlock with no problem?

YES

thank you so much for the info, that is all i needed

Well why exactly would there be different wires for passenger lock/unlock, driver lock/unlock, and door lock/unlock? To me, that shows that the vehicle has 2 stage door unlocking. With my car, I have wires for driver's door locking/unlocking and then seperate wires for passenger doors locking/unlocking. I do have the 2 stage unlocking but wanted to lose that when I installed the new alarm. I wired up the aftermarket relay for the door's before the factory door relay. I cut the wire for the driver door unlock all together. That way when I wired everything up, 1 single disarm on my remote would unlock all doors.
Just simply wire it up how you said and if it doesnt work correctly, just run them differently. It took me 3 tries until I had my doors working the correct way. Just remember that as long as you have the relays wired correctly, you wont need to worry about frying anything if you do have the wrong vehicle door wires used. It simply wont lock/unlock the door(s).

well i have never used relays for the doors when i wired alarms before and everything has worked fine. When i hook it up i'll let you know if it works the way i was going to do it or not.

I did not have to use relays for my doors either. There were factory relays but I left those alone. Some alarm brains (like mine) have a built in relay inside the brain. Since your alarm manual shows relays, then I would use them.

You won't need to use relays for the doorlocks on this install - the green and blue (-) 500mA outputs can be connected directly to the (-) lock/unlock switched wires on your car.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

maybe the install is done already but it looked like what i call a candy bar auto start. like you were saying they are cheap and i wouldn't recommend hooking up the starter kill. the chances of this auto start failing are to high and when it fails you are stranded wherever you park it.

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"so should that little computer under the dash smell burnt? I DIDN"T DO IT!"

Also the person who designed that diagram is a moron regardless of the chinglish, in regards to the starter kill relay. Reasons:

1. You should never interrupt an ignition circuit with a relay, always a starter.

2. 87 and 87a are never connected, so the car will never start/run.

If that orange wire is ground-when-armed (99% certainty that it will be) you'd connect the wires to 87a and 30 on a standard SPDT relay.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

BLACK / YELLOW at ign to 86, orange from alarm to 85, black white at ign, cut and join 1 side to 87a, join other side to 30. This will cut the STARTER if hotwire is attempted when alarm is on.