viper 5701, 2007 mazdaspeed 3
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104761
Printed Date: May 20, 2024 at 10:35 PM
Topic: viper 5701, 2007 mazdaspeed 3
Posted By: krystm
Subject: viper 5701, 2007 mazdaspeed 3
Date Posted: May 15, 2008 at 2:15 PM
I'd like to start off by saying obviously I am new to the forums more of a lurker though and just wanted to say the community here is great. Anyways I decided on getting the Viper 5701 and it will arrive on Monday and I was wondering first is there anything I need to get sepearte to make this work? my car does have the immobilizer thing so not sure if I need a work around for that?
Also besides the fact of needing an install manual could anyone point me in the right direction to obtaining one?
And the last is probably covered in my question how does programming work with this alarm. I read there was a USB port on this? Can I just plug it in to my computer and program it?
I have a background in electronics and computers so I know my way around for the most part and it would kill me to have to pay someone to install it.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Replies:
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 15, 2008 at 2:41 PM
HOLY @#&^%$* ! Dude...pay someone! Then sit there and watch him do the install - you'll feel like you got a bargain when you hear him swearing. The install guide is nearly 100 pages! You gotta read every word in every paragraph on every page! Then you start over. Seasoned installers feel like newbies when they install these. It is possible to program features with the "valet" switch on the command center but it ain't easy. A Bitwriter will do the trick with the appropriate chip and software for the 5701. USB is for using the bootloader for XK bypass module programming. Mazda 3 has N.C. doorpins which require a pull-up circuit be built or get a 452D from DEI. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 15, 2008 at 6:22 PM
I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3. Same wiring as a 2007. You can actually use the (+) door trigger input of the alarm and it will work fine. You will need 4 diodes to isolate the 4 door trigger wires.
The car also has a neutral position sensing wire (BLACK/ orange) at the ECU under the hood that will read (+) when in gear, and (-) when in neutral. Hooking this wire up to the brake input of the remote start (diode isolated from the real brake wire of course) will prevent the car from attempting to start in gear. I haven't installed a 5701, but it is one of the newly designed units that has the manual remote start interface built in.
Having a background in computers and electronics will do very little to help you. It may help you understand relays and diodes, but it won't help you find your way around a car.
Posted By: krystm
Date Posted: May 15, 2008 at 10:38 PM
Sorry about that I may not be a mechanic or electrical engineer however with my dad being an electrician and I have pretty much torn every part of the car down all I really need is the wiring schematics and I would be fine I'd think. I know where all my wires are and how to get to them I just need to know which wires I need to get to.
I just was wondering if this is really gonna be that hard. The thing that doesn't make sense is that it's advertised as a much easier install then a standard alarm with the relays and less wires. The big thing I was wondering was about the immobilizer for starting it, and what I should expect to pay for the parts required to install it.
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: May 15, 2008 at 11:14 PM
Mazda should use a XK04 flashed to PKF3
-------------
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 1:40 AM
Your dad is an electrician..... hmmmm? Keep him away from your car. Wire nut's have NO place in any install of any kind. If I had a dollar for everytime I have heard the comment about some friend, or relative being an electrician.... I believe there are some similarities for the skill needed to wire your new addition to the house and some basics to automotive electronics. But..... -------------
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 10:51 AM
Jworm, it's a combo so he can't use the domelight wire - it turns on at end of runtime. However, I had someone do a F350 with NC doorpins and he simply connected the positive door trigger input of the 5701. The 7 volt rise from ground was enough to trigger the alarm. He'll still needed to isolate the four doors from each other. OK, because I'm suicidal and have a fatal attraction to challenges, I'll help you out krystm. Is this a manual or auto shift car? The 5701 comes in manual transmission mode by default. If it's an automatic, you'll need to re-program the 5701 control module as per instructions in supplement. Here is the INSTALL GUIDE Here is the INSTALL GUIDE SUPPLEMENT Here is the OWNERS GUIDE ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: krystm
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 12:52 PM
Big Dog wrote:
Jworm, it's a combo so he can't use the domelight wire - it turns on at end of runtime.
However, I had someone do a F350 with NC doorpins and he simply connected the positive door trigger input of the 5701. The 7 volt rise from ground was enough to trigger the alarm. He'll still needed to isolate the four doors from each other.
OK, because I'm suicidal and have a fatal attraction to challenges, I'll help you out krystm.
Is this a manual or auto shift car? The 5701 comes in manual transmission mode by default. If it's an automatic, you'll need to re-program the 5701 control module as per instructions in supplement.
Here is the INSTALL GUIDE
Here is the INSTALL GUIDE SUPPLEMENT
Here is the OWNERS GUIDE
Its actually a Manual Turbo Car. So the big thing I am looking at is the turbo timer and workaround for the immobilizer. Quotes I am receiving are 68 /hr with hopefully a max of 4 hrs so around 300 to install.... So I dunno what to do at this point.
Regardless of my skills or dads skills or friends skills I am competent enough to do this myself and would really like to save money and put the alarm where I want instead of where the installer wants to just slap it in.
I am just looking for pointers and things to look out for during this install.
Posted By: krystm
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 12:59 PM
Also if I can do this install myself I could buy the bitwriter for way cheaper then paying someone to install it. And I would be willing to do that so I could make changes when adding new modules etc.
Why can't I edit my own posts?!
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 1:28 PM
Best of luck to you.
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 2:04 PM
krystm wrote:
Why can't I edit my own posts?!
At 50 posts you become a Standard member. Standard members may edit their posts if it is the last in the thread, and upload images. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 5:31 PM
Big Dog wrote:
Jworm, it's a combo so he can't use the domelight wire - it turns on at end of runtime.
However, I had someone do a F350 with NC doorpins and he simply connected the positive door trigger input of the 5701. The 7 volt rise from ground was enough to trigger the alarm. He'll still needed to isolate the four doors from each other.
OK, because I'm suicidal and have a fatal attraction to challenges, I'll help you out krystm.
Is this a manual or auto shift car? The 5701 comes in manual transmission mode by default. If it's an automatic, you'll need to re-program the 5701 control module as per instructions in supplement.
Maybe you missed the part about me owning the same car. The hatchback version of the car (Mazda 3) has positive independent door trigger wires in the passenger kick panel. The Speed3 (Turbo version) only comes in the hatchback version. It also only comes in a manual transmission. For some reason, DEI's tech sheet list the car as only having N.O. door triggers....not the case. You are correct in that the domelight comes ON after the ignition is shut off so it would not be an appropriate wire to use.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 5:57 PM
krystm wrote:
Its actually a Manual Turbo Car. So the big thing I am looking at is the turbo timer and workaround for the immobilizer. Quotes I am receiving are 68 /hr with hopefully a max of 4 hrs so around 300 to install.... So I dunno what to do at this point.
Regardless of my skills or dads skills or friends skills I am competent enough to do this myself and would really like to save money and put the alarm where I want instead of where the installer wants to just slap it in.
I am just looking for pointers and things to look out for during this install.
The car is not a very difficult car to do compared to other cars out there. If you have never done an install like this before, plan for 2 full days. Below the panel that is above and behind the clock is a good spot to hide the alarm brain (CPU). Bypassing the immobilizer it not too hard. I used a PKF3 on mine. There are many other modules out there that will work just as good. Download the manual for the PKF3 at bypasskit.com. The only hard part may be programming it, especially if you have the unit in manual transmission mode. I have mine in automatic mode, because I interfaced with the neutral sensing wire at the car's ECU to prevent it from starting in gear, but that is frowned upon at this website and cannot be discussed without getting the thread locked.
None of the wires are too difficult to find, with the exception of the door trigger wires. I found them in the passenger pick panel in the harness running toward the back of the car. I think the wire colors were a little different than what was on DEI's tech sheet. I am going to be adding a couple more things to my alarm this weekend, so I will make a note of the wire colors for you and post again in a few days. I used the domelight supervision output of the alarm to drive a relay to power the domelight wire of the car for domelight supervision. That wire was also in the passenger kick panel.
I remember getting the doorlock wires in the drivers kick, and probably the brake wire there as well. DEI's tech sheet says a double pulse may be needed for the unlock wire, but it was not on my car. I used the (-) parking light wire which is in the ignition harness along with all the ignition, accessory and starter wires. I read on DEI's forum that using the (-) parking light wire on the Mazda 3 may cause the radio lights to act erratic, but it worked fine for me. I went straight to the parking brake for the parking brake wire, but I'm sure there are easier spots to find it.
I used a fuel injector wire at the ECU under the hood near the battery for my tach signal. I can email you a diagram of the ECU if you would like. Drop me a PM with your email.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 1:40 AM
Big Dog wrote:
HOLY @#&^%$* !
Dude...pay someone! Then sit there and watch him do the install - you'll feel like you got a bargain when you hear him swearing.
The install guide is nearly 100 pages! You gotta read every word in every paragraph on every page! Then you start over.
Seasoned installers feel like newbies when they install these. It is possible to program features with the "valet" switch on the command center but it ain't easy. A Bitwriter will do the trick with the appropriate chip and software for the 5701. USB is for using the bootloader for XK bypass module programming.
Big Dog wrote:
Here is the INSTALL GUIDE
Here is the INSTALL GUIDE SUPPLEMENT
Here is the OWNERS GUIDE
Stellar - I've been itching to read the manual for one of these beasts, since I don't deal with Directed much anymore.
I'm not sure exactly what the fuss is about though. Looks to me like they're just getting on track with what other manufacturers have been doing for the better part of a decade. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 20, 2008 at 9:35 AM
Chris, it's combined technologies from Directed's aqcuisitions in the past years. A little bit of Astroflex....a little bit of Autostart......a little bit of Trilogix......a little bit of "DEI". Just like your mommas soup.  jworm, I've used the wires you talk about in the past as per the pic. 
I agree that it does work but I prefered not to use it because of the different polarities. I like the KISS philosophy. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 20, 2008 at 1:15 PM
I am about to attempt an install on the Mazdaspeed3 as well and am getting stuck on the planning stages of the Door Pins. Is there a reason why using the Dome Light wire would not work, even if the brain has a delay option built into it for the dome light delay? A lot of other Mazda3 guys say this wire will work for door pins.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 20, 2008 at 3:17 PM
I cant figure out how to edit my posts-- I am not quite sure what the picture in the above 2 posts is showing me, can anyone shed some light?
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: May 20, 2008 at 9:41 PM
As started before... you can edit your posts after you have 50 posts. You then become a Standard member. Standard members may edit their posts if it is the last in the thread, and upload images.
-------------
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 21, 2008 at 6:16 PM
Big Dog wrote:
jworm, I've used the wires you talk about in the past as per the pic.
I agree that it does work but I prefered not to use it because of the different polarities.
I like the KISS philosophy.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by different polarities? It is not a normally open circuit. It is a positive circuit. The sedan is different....it is a N.O. circuit. Hatchback is positive.
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 22, 2008 at 8:21 AM
JWorm] wrote:
....it is a N.O. circuit. Hatchback is positive.
That's right. Sorry if I wasn't clear. Whether I do a hatch or sedan, I go to the brown connector at the BCM and I wire them the same. I'm a method worker which makes it easier to troubleshoot. Both ways are good, it's a matter of preference. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 3:13 PM
Does anyone know if the Mazdaspeed3 has a factory pin switch? The wiring guide says it does, but I can not seem to locate it on the hood assembly.
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 3:30 PM
Factory hood switch? Part of hood latch. You can get this at BCM/Fusebox. Green plug. Black with Yellow stripe. Reads as ground with hood closed and shows 5 to 12 volts when hood is open. Program 5701 for normally closed (menu 1 feature 11). ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 7:12 PM
I had the front bumper off of my 2008 Speed3 over the weekend and did not see any wires going to the hood latch. Your car may not have that wire either.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 10:36 PM
JWorm] wrote:
I had the front bumper off of my 2008 Speed3 over the weekend and did not see any wires going to the hood latch. Your car may not have that wire either.
I found a bundle of wires leading to the hood latch assembly, but it looked like I would have to remove a metal piece to access the sensor. I will check this out tomorrow. There is a wire loom that runs along the top of the radiator fan and leads into the latch assembly. I thought it might be some sort of temp sensor but it might be the hood pin.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 10:39 PM
J-
it didn't look like the wires would be exposed with the bumper removed. I will try to take pics of this and report back tomorrow.
Im doing my install on Sat-- wish me luck!
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 10:01 AM
Don't go to the hood latch. Go to the BCM as per my previous post. Trust me. You don't need luck . . . knowledge will get the job done. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 10:39 AM
Why is there NO mention about the clutch on this car, and the fact of the VIPER unit? Am I simply being impatient.... and this will be the very next question posted? -------------
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 12:38 PM
JWorm can chime in-- he did remote start on a speed3
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 12:55 PM
Sorry KarTuneMan, I was snoozing. The way that I do clutch override is in drivers kick. There's a gray/black wire which shows 12V during crank whether you press the clutch or not. Connect the heavy gauge purple crank wire to this one. Keep the 5701LE in its default manual transmission mode - the way it comes out of the box. Connect the e-brake and door triggers of course. E-brake is BLACK/ green (–) near large blue connector at BCM / Fusebox. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 1:27 PM
Ok--- I found this wire on my 07 speed3 
Can someone explain how to test wires properly? I put my meter to DC power at 20V, put the black probe to chassis ground and tested the wire with the red probe. I got different readings with the hood up and down, but it wasnt an obvious 5-12v with the hood up and 0 with it down. am I testing the wires incorrectly?
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 2:01 PM
If the plug is disconnected then you won't read voltage. If the plug is disconnected, use the ohm scale. Black probe to chassis ground. Red probe to the BLACK / YELLOW you want to test. With hood closed = close to 0 ohms. With hood open = will show "open" on meter or an infinite resistance. ------------- Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 3:17 PM
KarTuneMan wrote:
Why is there NO mention about the clutch on this car, and the fact of the VIPER unit?
Am I simply being impatient.... and this will be the very next question posted?
For one....a DEI unit designed for manual transmission vehicles is being used.
I used a Compustar unit designed for an automatic in my Speed3. I connected the brake wire to the neutral wire at the ECU, Wire shows (+) when in any gear. If I leave the car in gear, it won't remote start because it thinks the brake pedal is being pushed. Everyday when I leave my driveway I shift before stepping on the brake. When that happens, I hear the remote start shutting downs so I know the neutral wire is still working.
Your argument will be....the switch at the car's transmission can fail. Well, so can manual transmission remote starters. Do I have to find the post that was posted here a week or two ago about over 10,000 remote starters designed for manual transmissions being recalled because they can remote start when in gear? I'll take my chance any day with a switch inside a transmission versus a sequence designed by a remote start company, as well as the potential for a software malfunction. Also, in the 5 months I have owned my Speed3 I have not parked it in gear. Nobody else drives my car. I put it in valet mode before having it serviced, and the mechanic is given the OEM remote. owned 2 Subaru's before this that had neutral wires at the ECU, both had automatic remote starters without a problem. The Acura RSX-S I owned before the Speed3 had a manual transmission remote start because it did not have a neutral wire.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 3:39 PM
Big Dog wrote:
If the plug is disconnected then you won't read voltage. If the plug is disconnected, use the ohm scale. Black probe to chassis ground. Red probe to the BLACK / YELLOW you want to test. With hood closed = close to 0 ohms. With hood open = will show "open" on meter or an infinite resistance.
I'm green, but im not THAT green-- I put the plug back in when I tested it. thanks for the tip though. This forum rules. JWORM-- install day is tomorrow..wooot! Thanks again for all your help !
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 30, 2008 at 4:42 PM
elbartorex wrote:
JWORM-- install day is tomorrow..wooot! Thanks again for all your help !
If you have any questions throughout the day drop me an email. I should be around if you have any questions. Sorry I didn't get around to answering your email about how I strip wires. I use a knife and a hook tool. I have not seen anybody else use the same technique.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 31, 2008 at 11:47 AM
elbartorex wrote:
Ok--- I found this wire on my 07 speed3
Can someone explain how to test wires properly?
I put my meter to DC power at 20V, put the black probe to chassis ground and tested the wire with the red probe.
I got different readings with the hood up and down, but it wasnt an obvious 5-12v with the hood up and 0 with it down.
am I testing the wires incorrectly?
I tested this wire on my car today, and it does not work. Must only be on certain models.
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 31, 2008 at 11:25 PM
JWorm] wrote:
I tested this wire on my car today, and it does not work. Must only be on certain models.
J-- I did my install today- everything went very smooth and turned out great!
The yellow/black wire on the green plug is definitely not the hood pin on the Mazdaspeed3. I actually opened up the enclosure on the near the hood latch and found a small sensor with that used a BLACK/ white wire and a solid brown wire. I have no idea if this is actually a pin switch or some other sensor. There is a BLACK/ white wire on the green plug so I tested it and no dice. I have no idea if the MS3 even has a pin switch-- but needless to say I just omitted the hood pin feature. Otherwise everything else went in very cleanly-- the arm/disarm wires in the drivers kick worked like a charm, as well as the dome light for the door pins. For anyone else attempting a basic install here are the exact wires you need for the Mazdaspeed3--
constant 12V - Thick Gauge Red - ignition harness
ignition - Thick Gauge Yellow - ignition harness
parking lights- BLACK/ White - headlight stalk harness
unlock/disarm - BLACK/ White - drivers kick
lock/arm - BLACK/ Blue - drivers kick
doorpin/domelight - BLACK/ Blue- passenger kick, harness closest to firewall
hatch pin- BLACK/ Red - passenger kick, harness closest to firewall
hood pin- ???????
thanks to everyone to helped me out-- an alarm install can be done by a noob with a good planning and research
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 31, 2008 at 11:26 PM
JWorm] wrote:
I tested this wire on my car today, and it does not work. Must only be on certain models.
J-- I did my install today- everything went very smooth and turned out great!
The yellow/black wire on the green plug is definitely not the hood pin on the Mazdaspeed3. I actually opened up the enclosure on the near the hood latch and found a small sensor with that used a BLACK/ white wire and a solid brown wire. I have no idea if this is actually a pin switch or some other sensor. There is a BLACK/ white wire on the green plug so I tested it and no dice. I have no idea if the MS3 even has a pin switch-- but needless to say I just omitted the hood pin feature. Otherwise everything else went in very cleanly-- the arm/disarm wires in the drivers kick worked like a charm, as well as the dome light for the door pins. For anyone else attempting a basic install here are the exact wires you need for the Mazdaspeed3--
constant 12V - Thick Gauge Red - ignition harness
ignition - Thick Gauge Yellow - ignition harness
parking lights- BLACK/ White - headlight stalk harness
unlock/disarm - BLACK/ White - drivers kick
lock/arm - BLACK/ Blue - drivers kick
doorpin/domelight - BLACK/ Blue- passenger kick, harness closest to firewall
hatch pin- BLACK/ Red - passenger kick, harness closest to firewall
hood pin- ???????
thanks to everyone to helped me out-- an alarm install can be done by a noob with a good planning and research
Posted By: elbartorex
Date Posted: May 31, 2008 at 11:27 PM
JWorm] wrote:
I tested this wire on my car today, and it does not work. Must only be on certain models.
J-- I did my install today- everything went very smooth and turned out great!
The yellow/black wire on the green plug is definitely not the hood pin on the Mazdaspeed3. I actually opened up the enclosure on the near the hood latch and found a small sensor with that used a BLACK/ white wire and a solid brown wire. I have no idea if this is actually a pin switch or some other sensor. There is a BLACK/ white wire on the green plug so I tested it and no dice. I have no idea if the MS3 even has a pin switch-- but needless to say I just omitted the hood pin feature. Otherwise everything else went in very cleanly-- the arm/disarm wires in the drivers kick worked like a charm, as well as the dome light for the door pins. For anyone else attempting a basic install here are the exact wires you need for the Mazdaspeed3--
constant 12V - Thick Gauge Red - ignition harness
ignition - Thick Gauge Yellow - ignition harness
parking lights- BLACK/ White - headlight stalk harness
unlock/disarm - BLACK/ White - drivers kick
lock/arm - BLACK/ Blue - drivers kick
doorpin/domelight - BLACK/ Blue- passenger kick, harness closest to firewall
hatch pin- BLACK/ Red - passenger kick, harness closest to firewall
hood pin- ???????
thanks to everyone to helped me out-- an alarm install can be done by a noob with a good planning and research
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