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95 volvo 850 wagon door lock

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104776
Printed Date: May 04, 2024 at 7:23 AM


Topic: 95 volvo 850 wagon door lock

Posted By: buddyglassjr
Subject: 95 volvo 850 wagon door lock
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 10:06 AM

I have searched and read all the posts pertaining to this, but still can't find the answer. I'm installing a Viper 719XV on a 95 Volvo Wagon w/factory "alarm" (the kind that doesn't require a key fob, VIN production date on car is 10/94.)

I've literally tried every possible color combination listed (there are many) for the car and have everything appropriate working except for the door LOCK sequence. No matter what I try, I can't get the doors to lock without manually pushing the door knob down or turning the key in the lock cylinder.

The factory alarm and central locking relays were tested to Volvo procedure and are working normally. All pins (hood,trunk,door) tested and working normally. As there are multiple possibilities for lock/unlock on this car, I ended up using the GRY/RED combo for unlock, meaning the YEL/GRY to GRND should lock. However, it does absolutely nothing when pulsed by the alarm lock wire. The factory disarm wire is also working as it turns off the factory alarm LED when disarming. All ideas that I've found in various forums stop at this point, with no one seemingly able to get the doors to lock without disabling it or (presumably) people defaulting to disabling the factory alarm and running the door lock actuator on the driver's door to get the central lock system to lock.

Any ideas? I don't want to be defeated by this thing.

One thing I noticed is that for the unlock wire (GRY/RED), when I cut the wire in the loom, the doors LOCK! Reconnect them and nothing happens, add a ground and the doors UNLOCK. I haven't sat down to think about how to run a relay in switch configuration for this wire, but I'm thinking that this isn't the "real" solution.

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1995 Volvo 855T



Replies:

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 5:59 AM
Scytek is showing a diagram to use for locks on your car that involves 2 relays, 2 diodes, and connections to the blue/brown, yel/gry, and gry/red wires. Unfortunately I can't copy and paste it and my own drawings are mediocre, but here's a description of how it has to work.

For unlock - yel/gray is interrupted and the side going towards the door is connected to the blue/brown wire, and gray/red is grounded.

For lock - gray/red is interrupted with the door side connected to blue/brown, and yel/gray is grounded.

The 2 relays should be wired as follows:

Relay 1
85 (-) lock from Viper
86 const. fused 12v +
87 blue/brown wire
87a car side of cut gray/red wire
30 door side of cut gray/red wire

Relay 2
85 (-) unlock from Viper
86 const. fused 12v +
87 blue/brown wire
87a car side of cut yellow/gray wire
30 door side of cut yellow/gray wire

The (-) lock and unlock outputs from the Viper are also going to be connected to the car side of the yellow/gray and gray/red respectively. This is where the diodes are necessary; each of these 2 connections should be made with a diode inline, striped side facing towards the Viper.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: buddyglassjr
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 10:07 AM
Holy goodness! Just looking at that diagram, I think it just might work. I'll try it out this afternoon or tomorrow and post results here. chriswallace187, you may just be a god for finding this diagram.

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1995 Volvo 855T




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 10:23 AM

buddyglassjr wrote:

chriswallace187, you may just be a god for finding this diagram.

WoW.... !posted_image



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Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 6:11 PM

buddyglassjr wrote:

Holy goodness! Just looking at that diagram, I think it just might work. I'll try it out this afternoon or tomorrow and post results here. chriswallace187, you may just be a god for finding this diagram.

Aargh! I'm just a guy who knows a thing or two about cars! God, please don't do to me what You did to Herod!



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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 18, 2008 at 11:38 AM
Chris ain't done one for many years;  what you described is what I call motor interrupt AKA DEI 5 wire, I'll swear it was two negs somewhere in the door return wiring.You and Gary stick to New Testament I'll stay true to my roots and stick with the Old thank you.




Posted By: buddyglassjr
Date Posted: May 27, 2008 at 3:04 PM
chriswallace187 wrote:

Scytek is showing a diagram to use for locks on your car that involves 2 relays, 2 diodes, and connections to the blue/brown, yel/gry, and gry/red wires. Unfortunately I can't copy and paste it and my own drawings are mediocre, but here's a description of how it has to work.

For unlock - yel/gray is interrupted and the side going towards the door is connected to the blue/brown wire, and gray/red is grounded.

For lock - gray/red is interrupted with the door side connected to blue/brown, and yel/gray is grounded.

The 2 relays should be wired as follows:

Relay 1
85 (-) lock from Viper
86 const. fused 12v +
87 blue/brown wire
87a car side of cut gray/red wire
30 door side of cut gray/red wire

Relay 2
85 (-) unlock from Viper
86 const. fused 12v +
87 blue/brown wire
87a car side of cut yellow/gray wire
30 door side of cut yellow/gray wire

The (-) lock and unlock outputs from the Viper are also going to be connected to the car side of the yellow/gray and gray/red respectively. This is where the diodes are necessary; each of these 2 connections should be made with a diode inline, striped side facing towards the Viper.


Chris, your diagram ended up working except I had to use GRN/BRN instead of GRY/RED. Otherwise, once I hooked up the relays and diodes, everything worked fine.

Oh, and I had to disable the factory alarm (remove OE red relay, jumper between pins 50E and 50F) because it was tripping out when armed - the LED would "hyper" blink when armed and various combinations of lock/unlock would just make the factory alarm go crazy. I have a feeling that getting it to work in conjunction with the OE alarm also needs a diode or additional relay setup (not sure about that) but since it's just starter kill and door locking/unlocking, it's probably redundant since the DEI does that already.

Thanks for all your help. I'll draw out a diagram of how it worked shortly, in case anyone else with a '95 is racking their brains on this one.posted_image

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1995 Volvo 855T





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