1998 volkswagen glx, crimestopper
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=105009
Printed Date: May 10, 2025 at 12:41 PM
Topic: 1998 volkswagen glx, crimestopper
Posted By: genusmaximus
Subject: 1998 volkswagen glx, crimestopper
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 8:30 AM
I am trying to do an alarm on a 1998 volkswagen jetta GLX. I just moved out of Baltimore into a rural area and someone snatched my pioneer AVI, and riped the amp off of the seat, and left it. I am really trying to learn/teach myself this alarm install. 1st - When I drive, my parking brake light comes on which in turn cuts my headlights off. This is an intermitten problem. I need to troubleshoot but I don't know which relays do what above the fuses. I don't even know without a shadow of a doubt if its even a relay. This is my first install of an alarm and my 1st problem with this install. I have done hundreds of stereo installs. It has starter kill, remote start, and the vacuum door locks are really getting on my last nerve. The alarm is a crimestopper 2016. I am not really understanding all of these aux outputs. I was also wondering if this BROWN / white wire is only for the driver's door and will I have to run wire to all of the pin switches. Next, the windows roll down if I leave the key in the unlock position and up if left in the lock position on drivers door. Is there a way to implement this without a key. This car is a manual so I was wondering is there a way to wire it so that if it is in gear then it won't let me remote start it. Also, I don't know the logistics of the alarm. If it is like any other circuit I have built, can you install one portion of the alarm, check to see if it works, then move on to the next portion; i.e. remote start-check, now door triggers? I am understanding that these relay (first time I'm actually using one) can serve alot of purposes. I have read up on the diode uses with the relays as far as back feeding using one output to servel loads. My question is when is it a necessity and when is it not(diode w/ relay).I am just trying to make sure when I do this install it is done right. Well I have just about torn the whole dash apart so I am about to go back outside, do some more testing, and depress myself further. Any time devoted to this topic will greatly be appreciated. My apologies for the lengthy post. ------------- ..don't be a monkey, be a gorilla!
Replies:
Posted By: genusmaximus
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 8:47 AM
Side note, is there a way to totally disable the factory alarm. If not, which wire is the disable wire for aftermarket systems?
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..don't be a monkey, be a gorilla!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 10:00 AM
First you shouldn't need any relays for the alarm portion, second if the remote start is for autos only I can't give you any remote start advice. As for the factory alarm if it's a black box with two plugs, there is a way to to kill this and tap door and trunk contacts off it. The lock wires are in drivers door, if the alarm gives you a way to extend lock pulse this will raise your windows and close electric roof if you have one (about 15 secs., 10 with four windows and no roof, 7 with front windows only). Extending the unlock should reverse this but you might need a double unlock pulse.* You could use one or more aux outputs set to timed output and join them straight into the lock and unlock wires. * Never needed to do this.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 10:07 AM
PS I don't believe its a vacuum, if it has a pump in the trunk area then I'm wrong but as far as I know Mk IV Golf/Jetta/Audi/Seat and Skoda were all using electric motors rather than vacuum pumps. Any way its irrevelant. I'm worried about parking brake and headlamp, where did you tap into it. NOT at inst. panel, do it at switch at base of handbrake (e brake). Also don't even think about ignition lock, the alarm will DEADLOCK the car, use the provided button on the door switch panel manually as this doesn't deadlock the vehicle.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 10:27 AM
Me again, just had a look here at the wiring diagramme you have no inbuilt way to time your locks except up to 5 secs which wont close windows from fully open, there is no reference to manual safety systems, so DONT DO IT, the brown white is not germane, green is the door contact you require.
Posted By: genusmaximus
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 11:49 AM
The parking brake light has been an issue before I even thought about an alarm. This is separate from the install. i figured that it might interfere though. And yes it is a vacuum. I have a mk III. Nothing but vacuum tube all the way through the vehicle. Second, now I am on the portion with the head light and there are two separate fuses for them. I know I need to use a relay in between but I dont know how.
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..don't be a monkey, be a gorilla!
Posted By: genusmaximus
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 11:51 AM
....and can you elaborate on the whole deadlock thing......... I am totally ignorant toward the ignition thing you wrote about and I don't want to make any mistakes. By the way, what in the world is ignition 1, 2, 3 for and what the difference.
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..don't be a monkey, be a gorilla!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 3:51 PM
First DONT FIT THIS UNIT TO YOUR CAR it's for auto only, having read the wiring diagramme and install manual courtesy of this sight I fail to see any manual trannie safety cut-outs, vacuum makes no odds, it still uses electrical triggers, grey lock and green unlock in either front door cabling coming into car, both pos. You would need a DEI 528t timer module added to the alarm's ground when armed wire to effect window close. If you look at plugs going into your instrument panel join any brown cables to a thicker one and ground this to an existing bolt on the metal cross-section below panel, this should cure the parking brake light problem, either that or you have a short down to ground in the instrument panel or its wiring. I now realise that the BROWN / white wire is coming from one of the door switches; that's correct and it goes to the green on alarm. BROWN / red in trunk . We (UK) never had factory alarms on Mk IIIs so I suggest locate it then cut the power supply, either red, RED / white or RED / yellow, test first, then see if you can start the car, if that's the case away you go if not you've some tracing and testing.
Posted By: genusmaximus
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 4:28 PM
"If you look at plugs going into your instrument panel join any brown cables to a thicker one and ground this to an existing bolt on the metal cross-section below panel, this should cure the parking brake light problem, " .......can you elaborate on this. And thanks for the information so far.
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..don't be a monkey, be a gorilla!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 4:35 PM
It was a common problem on MK I Golf etc bad earth (ground) to instrument panel,the browns go to ground, increasing capacity lowers resistance and if you didn't know why I suggested it you shouldn't be attempting this install, also the car wont let you auto(ignition) lock, there is an ignition standoff to the vacuum pump.
Posted By: genusmaximus
Date Posted: May 26, 2008 at 5:39 PM
So you are saying it is a problem with the ground block under the driver's side dash??? If this is the case then why don't I have any other problems besides the parking brake? I will give it a try tho. I am almost done with the wiring but this confused me,.....And "the car wont let you auto(ignition) lock, there is an ignition standoff to the vacuum pump." Is this pertaining tothe remote start & exactly what dowes this mean?? One more question, off of the 6 pin high current plug it says IGN, it also says this on the prewired relay for the blue wire. DO they go to the same black wire or do I need to do something else. Well two questions. I am about to do the lighs and one place said just use the WHITE/ black 12 gauge wire and another said I had to use two gray with a relay inbetween. I know t has separate circuits for the headlamps. Which set of wires do I use with this DRL setup?
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..don't be a monkey, be a gorilla!
Posted By: TooDark
Date Posted: May 29, 2008 at 1:27 PM
You do not need a DEI unit to roll up your windows. You can use the vlt/white and GREEN / WHITE (AUX 3 and 4) to do this function.
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