07 toyota tundra compustar pro/fortin

Let me start by saying that I am a novice willing to try anything. This time I decided to install my own CompuStar Pro P2W9000FM-AS and Fortin KEYOVERSL2 immobilizer bypass in my 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L SR5 CrewMax truck.

I installed the CompuStar Pro alarm and the Fortin bypass so far, the window units come next. The alarm seems to be working OK, but the Fortin KEYOVERSL2 immobilizer bypass seems to not want to accept the immobilizer code. I'm pretty sure my wiring is right and will go back and check it again if I need to. Let me explain what I did. I wired up everything with the battery disconnected. I reconnected the battery a few times (with the alarm and bypass brain disconnected so I could verify wires. Everything test as it should. After all the wiring was done, I connected the brain and then connected the battery. After that I programmed the remotes and everything worked for the most part. The alarm would lock and then unlock by itself after a few seconds. Still not sure why it would do that but it works fine now. Maybe the 2 way remote was too close or something?

So then I went to program the Fortin KEYOVERSL2 immobilizer bypass. It was flashing when I went to start the programming procedure. Not sure if that was good or not. So I went through the programming procedure anyway. Unplugged the wires, held down the button, plugged in the RS 232 wire and the red light comes on and stays on. Plug in the other wire and the light still stays on. Put the key in and it still stays solid. I tried to redo it a few times with the same results. I tried it with the key in before plugging in the wires, and the light flashes continuously. So I'm not sure what to do. When I try to remote start, the lights and accessories turn on like they should, but no cranking.

I'm open to any suggestions and will try stuff if you think it will help me or help you decide what is wrong.

For the Fortin wiring, I ran the:
PURPLE / white wire to the Type G plug, pin 4 (Light Green wire)
Yellow/Black wire to the Type G plug, pin 5 (blue wire)
Green wire to the grey key sense wire
Blue wire to the Violet 250mA neg output when armed and during remote start (while running) wire on Connector 1, pin 5 of the Compustar.

The Violet wire is also used for the Ground Trigger for the 2nd ignition relay. I think I might have used this for the tilt sensor too but I have a diode on that side.

The blue wire of the keyoversl2 is connected wrong. Should go to the black wire (status out) pin 9 in CN3. It needs to see ground only when remote started, not when you arm the alarm.

I agree with JWorm that the key-over shouldn't be getting a ground when the alarm is armed (that'll allow the truck to be stolen more easily), but I can think of a couple of possible scenarios related to your problems.

--If the key-over blue wire already has a ground, probably the module "thinks" it's time to get ready to remote-start the car, and maybe that won't allow it to go into programming.

Since the blue wire already has to be disconnected anyway, I'd just cut it, leave it unconnected to anything at all, and try programming again.

--If the bypass module starts to frustrate you, just leave it for last, which is what many of us also do.

Just leave a good key in the ignition switch, the bypass unplugged, and try to get the remote start to work.

--About the doors locking, and then unlocking.

Did you say the Compustar's ground-when-armed-and-running output is also triggering a relay to power up Ignition 2?

That scenario would not only leave the ignition on all night (draining the battery), but on almost all Toyotas:

If you lock the doors with the ignition on and a door open, the vehicle will unlock the doors again, to try to keep you from locking yourself out.

So basically, if that GWA (ground when armed) wire is powering up the ignition when you try to lock the doors, and you happen to have a door open at the same time, that'll make them unlock again.

Just noticed you were using the violet to trigger the 2nd ignition....thats another problem. You should be triggering the 2nd ignition relay with the green (-) ignition output. Pin 5 of CN3.

Thanks for the quick replies. I went out to the garage to correct the Fortin blue wire error. It was then that I realized it already is connected correctly to the black wire. I apologize for the error in my memory. I had just been tracing that violet wire earlier when messing with the tilt sensor and it somehow got messed with the idea that the blue wire went there too.

I tried the key in the ignition and tried the remote start. The truck started right up. Pulled the key out and it would turn everything on, but no fire. So now I REALLY have no clue why the Fortin isn't working. I'll try cutting the blue wire and seeing if that will let me program the Fortin and then connect it back.

As for the relay connection:

Their diagram says to connect the ground trigger for the relay to any one of the three wires (Ignition Out, Acc. Out, Starter Out). I am using connector 3, pin 3, 2nd Starter 250 mA Negative output for the ground trigger. I assume I should be using Connector 3, pin 5 since it is the 2nd Ignition 250mA neg. output for that relay. Would make more sense. You would think the name would stand out at me more.

I also assume I should be using the connector 3, pin 7, 2nd Accessory 250mA neg. output for my tilt sensor.

While I am asking questions, is it OK to wire up both GBS and tilt sensors both on connector 10?

toxarch wrote:

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I also assume I should be using the connector 3, pin 7, 2nd Accessory 250mA neg. output for my tilt sensor.

While I am asking questions, is it OK to wire up both GBS and tilt sensors both on connector 10?

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What tilt sensor are you using? If it is a DEI tilt sensor (like a 507t) then the ground wire goes to the ground when armed wire of the alarm. That would be the violet wire.

The 2nd accessory 250 mA (-) output provides a ground before the system remote starts, shuts down momentarily while the vehicle is cranking, and then goes back on again once the starter stops cranking. It is not meant for connecting sensors. It is meant to trigger addition relays if your vehicle requires more than 1 accessory wire to be hooked up.

What the heck is a GBS?

JWorm] wrote:

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toxarch wrote:

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I also assume I should be using the connector 3, pin 7, 2nd Accessory 250mA neg. output for my tilt sensor.

While I am asking questions, is it OK to wire up both GBS and tilt sensors both on connector 10?

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What tilt sensor are you using? If it is a DEI tilt sensor (like a 507t) then the ground wire goes to the ground when armed wire of the alarm. That would be the violet wire.

The 2nd accessory 250 mA (-) output provides a ground before the system remote starts, shuts down momentarily while the vehicle is cranking, and then goes back on again once the starter stops cranking. It is not meant for connecting sensors. It is meant to trigger addition relays if your vehicle requires more than 1 accessory wire to be hooked up.

What the heck is a GBS?

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The tilt sensor is a Scytek tilt sensor. I can't get it to respond at all. A GBS is a Glass Break Sensor and it's also a Scytek. The GBS seems to be working OK, though it works really well on the passenger side and not so well on the driver's side. I have it mounted in a blank just below the A/C controls along with the alarm LED.

Anyway, for the tilt sensor, I have the 12v, neg. trigger, warn-away neg., and ground are all wired to connector 10 (as is the GBS, though no warn on the GBS). The ground when armed wire for the tilt is now connected to the connector 1, pin 5, 250mA neg. when armed wire. I have put in diodes for this wire since it is being used by the starter relay, tilt sensor, and windows up module. Each of those connections have a diode with the striped end toward the alarm brain. I wonder if burned it up the way it was wired at first. If I ground the orange wire (ground when armed) from the tilt sensor, it should work, right?


As for the Fortin bypass. I retraced the wires and I think I figured out the problem. I wired up to the blue and green wires thinking it was a 6 pin plug instead of a 7 pin plug. The #4 pin is so light in color, it looks white in my light instead of light green. I'm going to make that change right now and try it again.

The Fortin is finally programmed. The problem was that I had used the wrong green wire from the ignition. Truck still wouldn't start. I have the key sense connected to the Fortin and to Connector 3, pin 10. I haven't programmed that option so I figured it was sending voltage to the keysense. I cut the wire and it started up fine. Should I bother using this wire? The doors won't lock by remote if the key is in the ignition with the wire cut. Will they auto-lock with the wire cut?

So I started connecting the window module. Connected the activation wire to the CN1, Pin 5 "Violet - 250mA negative (-) output when armed and during remote start (while running)." Nothing happened when I armed the by remote. I tested the violet wire and it's showing a voltage when armed. Maybe that is why it's not activating the window module and why the the tilt sensor is not working. However, it does activate the window module when the truck is remote started.

So should I be using a different wire for a ground when armed?

What did you connect the main power wires of the window module to?

The window module is wired to the same 12v power that the alarm is powered to (line from battery and factory ground). I can manually ground the wire and it will activate the window module. The problem is, the CN1 Pin5 that is supposed to be a ground when armed wire, does not ground out until the remote start is activated.

I actually did one window module for up, and another for down. But the down isn't connected to the alarm yet until I can get my hands on a programmer to program AUX 1 and AUX 2 wires.

So no ideas on the ground when armed? Can I use a different wire from the CompuStar?

I could sure use some input here, please. My ground when armed wire does not ground when armed, I dioded the three wires using the wire: Starter relay, tilt sensor, and window module.

So I played around with it a little more. The window module puts out 6 volts. And the tilt sensor puts out 6 volts. So I guess that was too much for the alarm to ground and that is why it wasn't completely grounding. I didn't measure amperage. Remote start still worked though.

I pulled the window control off the violet wire. I'll just manually control that on the remote (aux 1). Still need to see if the ground when armed will activate the tilt sensor.

The tilt sensor was putting out 12 volts through its ground when armed wire. I took that wire and just grounded it to the chasis. Tilt sensor works fine now and the alarm shuts it off when the alarm is off. So I am going to leave it like that unless someone says it's bad. The bad part might be that it's draining the battery very slowly. Maybe I'll ground it to the tilt sensor ground wire that runs through the alarm. Maybe that will stop any battery drain since it appears it's a ground switched accessory plug.

"Tilt sensor works fine now and the alarm shuts it off when the alarm is off."

I meant the tilt sensor turns off when the alarm is turned off.