clifford 50.5x, 07 milan

I have a question regarding wiring in the 520T to the 50.5X.Now i know the 520T provides power to the brain in the event that the it loses the main 12v.But in the 520T instructions it states that the 520T is not meant to drive any alarms or remote starts that have on-board relays which is fine since the 50.5x doesn't have any.It also states that the 520T isn't meant to support parking light flash either.Well i know that the parking light output from the 50.5X can do both(+,-)to drive the factory relay that is already in my 07 Milan,but would it be smarter to use the parking light(-)to reduce the load on the 520T if my vehicle battery where to get disconnected to extend the life of the 520T.

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"ole blake"

Look at it this way, when using positive you are using power from the RS/alarm for the lights. If you use negative, all you are doing is sending a ground to the factory relay which is supplied power from the car itself. If the battery were disconnected  the lights would not work when using negative for this reason. The 520T will be doing nothing more that sending a ground to a relay that has no power so, to answer your question, you would be safe in doing this....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

That's great to know.My reasoning behind this is so that if my battery where to get disconnected,i want the 520T just to power my brain and sirens,i don't want the lights flashing.

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"ole blake"

I'm installing a Clifford 50.5x with idatalink solo module into my 07 Milan.How do i shutdown the R.A.P after my Clifford 50.5x remote start has timed out?My vehicle has a positive door trigger which my (+)door trigger from my 50.5x will be connected to my dome supervision wire.I'm thinking i can use my factory alarm rearm wire(-)from my 50.5x and split it to have one end go to pulse my door lock wire to rearm the factory system,and have the other half go to a relay to convert it to a positive out so that it will pulse the dome supervision wire and shutdown the r.a.p.But if i do that and it pulses the dome supervision wire,won't that set the alarm off?

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"ole blake"

Okay gotcha.I have a blue 200ma status output relay trigger.

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"ole blake"

Pulse the drivers door pin wire.  As pulse after remote start shut down, or ARM.

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Hey Kar..So what your saying is i can pulse the drivers door pin wire with my GREEN / WHITE factory alarm rearm wire(-)and that should do the trick? How about just pulsing my power lock wire with the GREEN / WHITE rearm wire from my 50.5X,since they're both(-)'s would that do the trick?In reading my 50.5X install manual it states this,
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-)factory rearm wire
This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start shuts down or the doors are locked.This can be used to pulse the arm wire of the vehicles factory anti-theft device.Use a relay to send a (-)or(+)pulse to the arm wire.


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"ole blake"

Pulse them at the same time with the 2 different wires... (no diodes)

If your unit has a "pulse after runtime" this would be best. It will shut it down if you don't remember to hit the lock button (this triggers the rearm, and the lock)

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Well since i don't have two separate wires that negative pulse after shutdown,i only have the one.I can wire up a negative to negative relay and then split the output of 30 to the two separate wires and that should do the trick..

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"ole blake"

Your iData unit won't take care of the RAP ?

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I don't see why this is such a big problem. Did you check if you need the accessory circuit powered to start the car? If you do, then either use the relay method that I suggested initially, or just hook up the factory alarm re-arm to the driver door trigger. However, I would suggest the relay method because with the rearm method, every time you lock the doors, your dome light is going to come on and probably stay on for however long the delay is in you're car.

I'm at my wits end.Started installing my 50.5x into my Milan.Removed all my inline fuses,and started testing wires using my multimeter.I hooked my 3 remote start 12v wires to the battery,the one 12v to my ignition harness,tied my grounds together to one point.Tied in my hoodpin wire to the hoodpin wire on the car and trunk trigger wire from the 50.5X diode isolated with the trunk pin wire in the kick panel.I hooked up the igntion wire,starter kill,and the r/x and t/x for the idatalink module.I then started to test using my multimeter for my dome supervision wire in the kick panel,and all of a sudden my interior lights stay on and the dash display says that all the doors are open even though they're not.I haven't even tied into the door trigger wire in which my direct wire sheet says to use the dome supervision wire yet.If anyone has any info on this problem it would be greatly appreciated.I'm ready to pull my hair out!!!!!!

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"ole blake"

I'm having a problem with my 50.5X.When i try to remote start it doing the double push on my remote,it doesn't do anything.Also when i hook up the hood pin switch wire,it tells me that the hood is open,but when i unhook it,it says everything is fine.

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"ole blake"

Okay peeps i fixed the remote start problem.Now i'm onto the idatalink solo bypass.The car will remote start with the key in,but not without it.The bypass is programmed right,but i think i have the  tx/rx wires crossed.Do you think i need to put a diode on the hoodpin wire?

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"ole blake"

Even when my siren is armed,i can hear a very faint siren sound coming from it.I have to have my ear to the front grill,but i can still hear it.I am running two sirens.One is the main siren,and the other is my interior siren which is powered off of a dei 528T pulse timer relay. ,which gets it's activation feed from the siren(+) of the alarm brain.Any suggestions?

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"ole blake"

check your grounds. i noticed on my 791xv that if the brain ground is disconnected that the siren wines at a very low volume

All of my grounds are combined into one.I'll have to double check everything.

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"ole blake"

I have unplugged all the sensors on my 50.5X,but at no set time,for some reason,it just goes off and flashes the hood and trunk icon on the remote.I don't even have the hood pin hooked up,and the trunk trigger wire is diode isolated.Any of you installers have had this problem?The vehicle is an 07 Mercury Milan.

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"ole blake"

what kind of car is it ? it sounds like there something wrong with the diode

did you recently get your car detailed or washed? that happened to my girlfriends car after she got her engine bay cleaned by the car wash one time, got water in it. worked fine again after a few days when it had completely dried.

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MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician

Which wire are you connected to on the car, and how do you have it diode isolated?

The wire on the car should be cut, and the diode placed inline on it with the striped side facing towards the trunk switch.

Your alarm's trunk trigger input should be connected on the striped side as well.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hey Chris i didn't cut the cars trunk pin wire in half.My blue multiplex trigger wire from the alarm is split three ways with three diodes and the bands facing the sensors.One diode goes to my battery backup,one to my tilt sensor,,and the last to my trunk pin wire in the car.So what your saying is i should cut the trunk pin wire in the car in half,solder the end closet to the trunk onto the stripped side of the diode along with my blue wire, and the other half on the cut wire onto the opposite side?

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"ole blake"

Should i do the same thing to my factory hood pin?My factory hood pin connector has two wires, a black and a blue/orange(negative trigger).When i tie my hood pin trigger wire from the alarm into the blue/orange,it tells me the hood is open even when the hood is closed.The factory hood pin is plastic with a rubber boot.

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"ole blake"

Answers:

Keep the existing 3 diodes you have coming into the blue wire; they are necessary in order to isolate the separate inputs to the blue wire from each other.

You've got what you need to do as far as that trunk pin wire - as long as by "side closest to the trunk" you mean the side of the wire that electrically goes to the trunk pin, which might not necessarily be physically closer.

If you've already run your hood pin wire to the factory location, I'd just drill a hole next to it and mount a new hood pin. I've had a few factory hoodpins where diode isolating wasn't enough to eliminate falsing, and usually just leave them alone.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Thanks Chris that solved the problem.As far as the hoodpin,i didn't mount the one that came with my 50.5X is because that entire frontal area is plastic,and i need to get a pin switch bracket to mount it in.I haven't had any other problems with it since you helped me solve the trunk problem.I tell you guys something,i got rid of the shock sensor and i use a tilt sensor and the Crime Guard AU94TM proximity sensor and can't be happier.I used the proximity sensor since i have tinted windows and it works great..Thanks everyone for all your help and patience.I look forward to installing another 50.5X real soon.

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"ole blake"

You can mount a hood pin in a plastic surface just fine, if you want to...all that's necessary is a wire connected to the main body of the pin and run to a metal ground.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Once again thanks for all your help Chris.My 50.5X with all the extra   is working like a charm now.I found a manufacturer pre-done hole that fit the pin switch.Without you guys on this sites help this wouldn't of been possible.You guys have saved me hundreds of dollars and now i'm a little more wiser than i was before..Once again Thank you!!

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"ole blake"