power windows
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=105754
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 6:10 AM
Topic: power windows
Posted By: fccool
Subject: power windows
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 7:05 AM
I fitted power windows to my car years ago with 2 relays in each door, i have now rebuilt the car and want to do it more properly. I assume i should have some kind of load sensing device wired in to stop the motor when it reaches all the way up and all the way down, i would also like to add one touch up or down. first of all, is there something i should be using to cut out the motor when it reaches all the way up or all the way down? 2nd were is a easy cheap place to get a module to make the windows one touch? could i just use some factory module from a car, i am in australia btw and the car is a 59 holden, 10 years older than the 1st holden with a power window option. i need some quick answers becuase i am about to fit up the doors for good and need to know how much wire to feed through the doors, space is tight in these jambs so i need to keep wire looms as thin as possible.
Replies:
Posted By: jar754
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 9:17 AM
y dont you just purchase an aftermarket pw kit
Posted By: fccool
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 7:08 PM
I had these motors fittid up nice, dont see the sense in buying a kit just to get some kind of load cut out to stop the motors when the window is all the way up. i am using 59 chev switches to get a factory fitted look so i dont need the ugly plastic switches that come with the kit either.
Posted By: bstegner
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 9:03 PM
I am by no means an expert but DEI has a module that sounds like it might fit your needs. It is model 530t. It is listed under several different DEI companies VIPER, Hornet, Directed, but they are all the same. You can find them locally at any place that sales car security systems for around $100 or ebay for about $50. You basicly would have to wire a constant power, ground , the up and down wires from the existing switches, and then wire the window motors to the 530t. You do not have to have a security system for it to function. It also has express up/down on both drivers and passangers side.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 9:04 PM
I'm curious as to why you're using relays at all? Those 59 Chevy switches aren't reversing polarity?
If they are, you should be able to directly wire the window motors from the switches.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: fccool
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 10:14 PM
relays were in there becuase before i had smaller switches and i wired the drivers side up to boot release on the old imobiliser to put up the drivers window by holding both buttons down on the remote till the window was up. i could leave out the relays as the chevy switches will take the current but i only had 1 thick wire and 2 thin wires to each slave door keeping the looms thin, if i go without the relays i need 3 thick wires, combined with the central locking and speaker wires it makes the loom a bit thick and there is only 6-7 mm of gap between the door and the jamb when the door is closed. on the drivers door i had to put in 2 holes for the loom but i want to avoid that on the other doors.
Posted By: fccool
Date Posted: June 28, 2008 at 10:17 PM
i think the dei kit has the auto function, but does it have a load sensor like the closer kits, wouldnt this mean running a extra 3 wires in each loom to go from the switch back to the module or is it in 4 seperate modules?
Posted By: bstegner
Date Posted: June 29, 2008 at 2:22 AM
The install Manuals for it can be found here... https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=530t If I understand you right load sensor stops the motors when the window is up even if you keep pressing the up on the switch, right? ... if so then yes it has it. It is one module, and how many wires that will need to go through the door depends on how your switches are wired up now... but generally speaking you will need 6 wires to drivers side side, 4 small wires (high gauge; 16-20ga should do it) for the switches'; drives up, down and passangers up, down, and 2 for the motors (low gauge 14ga or 12ga). Then you should only need to run 2 for the passanger side for the motors.
Posted By: fccool
Date Posted: June 30, 2008 at 4:33 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
I'm curious as to why you're using relays at all? Those 59 Chevy switches aren't reversing polarity?
If they are, you should be able to directly wire the window motors from the switches.
- that just crossed my mind, the old switches were on on with 6 legs each.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 30, 2008 at 5:14 AM
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 30, 2008 at 11:41 AM
You could use microswitches with a long shaft as end-stops, then you needn't worry about load sensors OR use a 530T which has a built in limiter. Thanks Chris for getting in first with my first thought, why the relays? People use relays when they aren't neccessary; attention to detail as "Iam an idiot " has shown or diodes or even a power transistor will do the job just as well, N.B. The sixth pin may have been carrying illumination.
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