2008 mustang window mod 530t
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=105841
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 12:54 AM
Topic: 2008 mustang window mod 530t
Posted By: StealthEs
Subject: 2008 mustang window mod 530t
Date Posted: July 01, 2008 at 2:55 PM
Has anyone done a 530T in the newer mustangs. In Directechs it lists the wires as motor part of module. Doing any tomorrow andthough I'd ask to see if anyone has any tips to make it easier.
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Cris
Replies:
Posted By: hazeleye94
Date Posted: July 17, 2008 at 1:04 AM
I would like to know if you got this installed successfully... I attempted to install on in my car and found that the one-touch module is integrated with the motor inside the door. I could not find a way to interface between the module since in was part of the motor. If anyone has any advice I sure would appreciate it. Thanks...
Posted By: StealthEs
Date Posted: July 17, 2008 at 10:01 PM
Ran into the same problem as you did so was unable to integrate the windows.
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Cris
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: July 17, 2008 at 10:27 PM
Does the one touch module work for up and down? Or only down? Can you get to the back of the window switches easily? When the window is all the way up and you press the up switch, does the window try to go up? or does it know it is at the top of the stroke?
Posted By: hazeleye94
Date Posted: July 18, 2008 at 9:58 AM
The one touch works for both directions. The back of the window switches are easy to get to. It seems that it knows it is already up, when you press the up switch I don't hear the window motor relay click or anything. Also, keep in mind that the new mustangs have the option where when you open the door, the window falls about an inch, then when you close the door, the window goes back up. Very strage issue.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: July 18, 2008 at 6:13 PM
This is what I am thinking, you will have to let me know if you think it is worth trying or not. You said that the one touch function is built into the motor. We need to see if the window switch provides a pulse for the one touch or if the wire on the switch stays at a positive or ground state the entire time the window is moving. IF it pulses the wire and the motor takes it over from there, all we should have to do is pulse that wire and keep the power getting to the motor long enough to roll up from the bottom of the stroke. If the window knows when it gets to top of stroke and shuts off on its own this should work. You may have to use 2 relays. One will provide a high current supply to trigger a relay with a decent size capacitor across 85 and 86 to give you a few seconds of latch. How long does it take for the window to get from bottom to top with the motor not running and the door closed?
Posted By: hazeleye94
Date Posted: July 22, 2008 at 9:37 AM
I will have to check this out when I have time and let you know. I will be at the beach for mustang week until the 28th, so I will investigate and let you know... thanks for the idea.
Posted By: hazeleye94
Date Posted: August 03, 2008 at 10:17 PM
I found a browsable PDF service manual that has the wiring diagram for the window modules and switch. If anyone can make some better sense out of it than me, please feel free to let me know what you think. Or what may work. Here it is... https://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Power%20Windows.pdf
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 03, 2008 at 11:06 PM
In the drivers door module, there is a wire labeled DACC it is RED / Lt.Blue in color. I am assuming that it is a switched voltage on this wire to only allow the window to work when the key is on. Can you verify that there is 12 volts on this wire only when the key is on or until you open the door?
The WHITE/ black wire is the window up wire. There will be 12 volts on that wire when the window is traveling in up direction, I need to know if there is ground on the violet/lt.green wire when the window is traveling up? I can't tell if there is ground on this wire only when auto up is activated. Attach red lead to the WHITE/ black wire. Black lead to the violet/lt.green wire. Now roll window up without activating auto up. Is there 12 volts displayed on your meter? If not do it again this time activating the auto up feature. Let me know what you find out.
Posted By: hazeleye94
Date Posted: August 07, 2008 at 10:46 AM
i am an idiot wrote:
In the drivers door module, there is a wire labeled DACC it is RED / Lt.Blue in color. I am assuming that it is a switched voltage on this wire to only allow the window to work when the key is on. Can you verify that there is 12 volts on this wire only when the key is on or until you open the door?
The WHITE/ black wire is the window up wire. There will be 12 volts on that wire when the window is traveling in up direction, I need to know if there is ground on the violet/lt.green wire when the window is traveling up? I can't tell if there is ground on this wire only when auto up is activated. Attach red lead to the WHITE/ black wire. Black lead to the violet/lt.green wire. Now roll window up without activating auto up. Is there 12 volts displayed on your meter? If not do it again this time activating the auto up feature. Let me know what you find out.
I will try and check this out this weekend when I get time. Thanks for the help. Maybe we can get this straightened out!
Posted By: hazeleye94
Date Posted: August 08, 2008 at 1:15 PM
Here is what I found.... answers in bold! Hope this helps... let me know if you need anything else. i am an idiot wrote:
In the drivers door module, there is a wire labeled DACC it is RED / Lt.Blue in color. I am assuming that it is a switched voltage on this wire to only allow the window to work when the key is on. Can you verify that there is 12 volts on this wire only when the key is on or until you open the door? This wire showed 12V while switch was at ACC and ON positions. It did not show voltage with switch off. Door open or closed did not change anything.
The WHITE/ black wire is the window up wire. There will be 12 volts on that wire when the window is traveling in up direction, I need to know if there is ground on the violet/lt.green wire when the window is traveling up? I can't tell if there is ground on this wire only when auto up is activated. Attach red lead to the WHITE/ black wire. Black lead to the violet/lt.green wire. Now roll window up without activating auto up. Is there 12 volts displayed on your meter? If not do it again this time activating the auto up feature. Let me know what you find out. With leads placed on wires listed, meter showed neg 11V at rest, and pos 1.1V while traveling up. The meter remained neg 11V while auto up was engaged.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 09, 2008 at 8:35 AM
It appears as though all we have to do is to apply power to the DACC wire (RED / lt blue) and a positive voltage to the window up wire (WHITE/ black). In order to not cut any wires untill we know we can get it to work, is it possible to get the pins out of the molex plug? I can't tell if the plug is in the door or in the kick panel. What we need to do is to supply a temporary fused power source to power the end of the RED / lt blue wire that goes into the motor without powering the smart junction box. This will be a simple install of a relay if this works. Fuse that wire at 5 amps first if the window does move or attempt to move you can up it to 10 amps. You must power the above wire and keep it powered while trying the below. Leave the 5 amp fuse in each wire until you see the window move or attempt to move. No movement or attempt to move and a blown fuse= stop and let me know. Movement or attempt to move and then a blown fuse = up the fuse size to 10 amps in the one that blew. If only one blows leave the other at 5. Now with separate fused power source (5 amps) apply power to the WHITE/ black wire. If the window does not attempt to move and blows either fuse, stop and let me know. If the window moves or at least attempts to move, up the blown fuse to NO LARGER than a 10 amp fuse. You do not need to cut or disconnect the WHITE/ black wire, just touch the temp wire to the terminal or in the plug. I do not remember if you wanted window up and down, if you need both, we have just did up. All that needs to happen to test down is remove the wire from WHITE/ black and touch it to yellow. I also need to know what kind of output your window module has? Can we time it to have a 5 second output? Tell me whatever you can about the module.
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