multiple problems, 06 trailblazer

On June 12, I bought a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS. That same day, I took it to the local audio store to get some"perks."

When I bought it, it didn't have any kind of keyless entry. So, I bought an Ungo SR6000, which has the remote start, LCD key fob, etc. I also got a new deck, amp, and subwoofer.

Here is my problem. First, when I would hit Disarm, the doors would unlock, but then, within about 4-5 seconds, they'd lock again. The display on the key fob would read disarmed (unlocked), but the doors would be locked. I'd have to re-arm and disarm it again, and then quickly grab for the door.

The installer's thought it was a bad "something" (bypass?), not the alarm brain but the "something else" I'm sorry I don't remember what it was called. So they replaced it. Didn't help AT ALL. Still does it.

Next, they decided to put in a diode(s). Still does it; again, no help.

Next, he said he turned off the feature that locks the doors in drive, and unlocks them in park. He said it was a longshot, but he did it anyway. Well, it still locks and unlocks depending on drive or park...

Basically, they said my only resort is to put relay's in for each lock, etc. They told me it'd be very expensive, etc, etc. Or take it to the dealer. They seem to think everything on their end is fine.

Another huge issue, my battery will die if not started at least every 24 hours. Two times in one week to come out to a dead battery is ridiculous.

The only thing on in the car is 1 blue led light that flashes when the alarm is armed. Thats it.

<b><u>Does anyone have ANY ideas?!</b></u>

The local audio store has never given me any problems before. Things are usually perfect the first time. They're telling me that it has nothing to do with the alarm and that I should take it to the dealer.

Is it an alarm problem?! If it is (the battery and door locks) I'm not paying for the dealer to fix it. The audio store should fix it.

I'm desperate here. I feel like I've either been ripped off at the audio store, or I've bought a vehicle with a POS battery and door lock system.

Will someone please help? Any comments are very much appreciated.

An added spec:

I have the GMRC-01 unit in my vehicle. (Axxess)

Take it back..... tell them to get it right for the original price, or remove it and give you a TOTAL refund.

This shop is giving you a lame-*** excuses in an attempt to remove the blame from themselves.

For them to even mention the additional cost of adding relay's is simply ridiculous. If the job was done correctly  to start with there would be

NO extra labor, or charges for anyone.

Just my humble opinion.

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I'd love to take it to the dealer and have them check things out also, but for one, I don't have any extra money for *this!*, second, the dealer is going to blame the audio shop, and the audio shop will blame the dealer.

Plus, if I did want to return everything, I'd have to pay a 20% re-stocking fee. I would HOPE that they wouldn't charge that to me. I'm a very loyal customer and give them a lot of business. It seems things are starting to change, though.

So, everyone, if it was your own personal vehicle, what would you do? The audio shop said they think it must be the BCM. "The alarm is working fine." Can the dealer check for any issues?

The problem could be with the bypass module. I have heard of modules unlocking and then locking back. Also, the module could be keeping the BCM "awake" and running the battery down.   The shop should be willing to disconnect, not uninstall, everything to rule out what they installed. The first thing to disconnect should be the data wire connection.   You   will not be able to use rs or keyless, but this should be the first step. This will rule out the module running the battery down. Could you post the model numbers of equipment installed from your receipt.

They replaced the bypass module once. Before I got the car the first time, after the initial install, they said they noticed the doors "re-locking." So, they ordered a new bypass and put it in. (They said) I'm not sure which model number you need, but I do know that the alarm is an Ungo SR6000 and that the piece to retain chimes, etc., is an Axxess brand, GMRC-01. I don't have the receipt with me right now, but I'll get it in the morning, and give everyone the full model numbers. Is the bypass part of the alarm system, or is that what the Axxess piece does? Forgive my questions, I don't deal with this stuff unless I have to (like this situation).

I called the audio shop today and talked to the manager. He, as always, was very nice. We decided that I'll bring it back Monday morning at 8:30 and they'd go through and check wires, etc. If everything looks okay, I think we'll do the disconnect, etc., to see if the battery draining is the alarm's fault...now the doors re-locking..who knows? He said maybe something got reversed..

I want to let everyone know that I appreciate their help. If you're considering leaving feedback or a suggestion, please do. I work in health care and I'm a female. Needless to say, I don't have ANY experience with electronics, especially alarms, etc.

So, thanks everyone, for your time. Its just frustrating. I just got this car about a month and a half ago, and I've been to the audio shop about 6 times. I would just like to be done.

Thanks again,

Jessica

Also, how do I know if my vehicle's battery needs replaced? It is only a 2006, but it has 68,000 miles on it. (I don't know if that makes a difference or not, but you would think so, since its been started and stopped and driven a lot more than your usual '06)

My batter has a black housing over it, with a bar across that, which is bolted at two points (I think). I haven't taken it off yet, so I don't know what kind or specs, but should it have gone bad this soon?

The last time it died, I got it jumped, let it run for about 10 minutes, then put the multimeter on it. It read about 13.0-13.2. Then kept the vehicle running and some driving around, for about an hour-hour and a half. When I got back, I put the multimeter on it again and it read the same.

Like I said, I know nothing about this stuff. So, what's my next step? When it was at the audio shop last, they put a small load tester on it and said it checked out okay.


Ideas?

Process of elimination...... Start by unplugging the starter. Drain still there? Okay, unplug the GMRC-01. Still there?

The GMRC-01 isn't the best integration piece on the market. Did the truck have OnStar and/or Bose?

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

Don't think it had Bose. I still have the factory deck (brick). It does have OnStar though and they asked if I use it. I said no. I went online and checked - its pretty expensive. He said I wouldn't have OnStar capabilities anymore unless I bought a different "module." (?) I told him it probably didn't matter because I don't use OnStar, so we just went with the GMRC-01, which he said he's had good luck with...

From what I understand other people have had similar problems when using the GMRC-01(which is designed to give you retained accessory power and door chimes - the factory radio performs those functions via data commands received from the BCM) and some aftermarket doorlock/remote start interfaces(which are necessary because the driver's and passenger doors also use data commands on the same line for lock and unlock, as opposed to dedicated wires like a more conventional car).

I can't seem to find the postings on this problem but I do believe they were from this site.

The problem has to do with the fact that you have two separate aftermarket modules, developed by separate companies, which utilize the factory Class II Data communications - and aren't designed to be compatible with each other.

Some possible solutions:

1. Replace the GMRC-01 with either a different Metra product or a similar interface from a different manufacturer.

2. Do away with the GMRC-01 entirely - have them run an accessory lead to the ignition switch for your aftermarket radio. You'd lose the RAP/door chimes but this might solve the problem.

3. If those features are important to keep - the doorlocks/RS could be approached in a different way. A 555L or equivalent bypass could be used for the remote start which doesn't require connection to the data wire, and wires for lock/unlock could go into the driver's door and be soldered into the circuit board of the driver's lock switch. This is kind of a last resort and should only be done by an experienced installer who's done it before - also if you have any factory warranty remaining on the truck this would probably void it as far as the doorlocks are concerned.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
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