Printer Friendly Forum Posts - clifford 70.5, 2001 galant

Im starting to hunt down wire locations as i plan my install of this matrix 70.5 and im up to the tach wire. i guess im not finding it in my service manuel or on alldata. I just read a post about there possibly not being a actual tach wire and maybe going off an injector wire. Is there a better way? This car has a factory tach in the dash and im guessing one of those wires makes it work.

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Battery	BLUE / YELLOW	(+)	OR RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1	BLACK/ WHITE	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1	BLUE/RED	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1	BLACK / YELLOW	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type	RF ACTIVATED SYS.
Anti-Theft Descript	TRANSPONDER
Tachometer	RED / WHITE	(-)	DIST. ON RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE
Parking Lights	GREEN / WHITE	(+)	CONNECTOR ON FUSE BOX
Brake Lights	GREEN/ SLV DOT	(+)	SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Horn	LIGHT GREEN	(-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

I've found the tach wire (white) behind the dash in my 2001 mitsubishi galant. The install guide says i should get a reading of 1v to 6v ac with on the multimeter. It also says in multi-coil ignition systems the reading can be lower. I'm geting .4v up to a little over 1v as the rpms increase, is this enough to satisfy the remote start system? I know this is simple stuff to some of you guys, I just want to be cautious and not screw anything up. thank guys.

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If the voltage increases linearly with the increase of RPMs, it is the right wire. You will have to connect it to see if it will work for you.

Im trying to tag all my wires before i go on to the next step of the install in my 2001 mitsubishi galant. so far all the info you guys have given me has been write on the money. now Im looking to tap a wire for the park/neutral safety switch. the actual switch is under the hood. Do i need to run a wire through the fire wall or can i find it under the dash somewhere. color and location would be helpful. I only get to work on this every couple of days so this is turning into alot of little steps. I still love it though. thanks guys.

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Is your mitz a manual trans?

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no its an automatic trans

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I asked a question a few days ago about finding a park, neutral safety switch wire to tap into on my 2001 mits galant ( automatic ) but havent gotten a reply. I know the actual switch is under the hood, can i find it under the dash or do i need to run the wire though the fire wall?

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Chances are the wire you need is going to be at the switch. It will not go back into the vehicle. Usually the switch is the last stop before the actual solenoid of the starter. I am still trying hard to figure out why they need the neutral safety switch. If you tag the starter wire at the ignition switch, the neutral switch will take care of itself. If it is in neutral or park it will allow the car to start, if not in neutral or park the car will not start. Does anybody know why you have to access the neutral safety switch?

You can just ground the neutral safety wire from the Clifford. The car will prevent it from attempting to crank if you somehow left it in gear.

Thanks guys, this helps out alot. I love this web site. i wish it was here years ago when i installed my first alarm (viper), it went well. this is my second so I will definitely be back with more questions soon. again thanks.

By the way, how much difference is there bettween the viper and clifford if there both made by dei. when i was looking at the matrix 70.5 and i think it was the viper 7901 they both had very similar features even some of the some componants, is one better?

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Viper, Clifford and Python are all the same, just slightly different colors and shapes of remotes.

DEI does it so they can have a Viper dealer on one corner, then a couple miles down the road, a Clifford dealer, then down the road a Python dealer. It can help prevent price shopping from uneducated consumers. SImilar in how GM has multiple brands, as well as Ford.

Use reverse GREEN/ red as your neutral safety, tach is on left hand plug at rear of inst. panel, either white yellow or white green. Alternatively go to the injectors, one colour will be the same on all (the common), use any of the others.

Ok, so i've got the control module and the satellite relay mounted in thier locations and the wires loomed and ran to where i believe i will need to make my conections. my question is about tapping a constant power source for both units. I have my constant 12 from the ignition ( blue/yel) heavy gauge. The control module has a small gauge fused red wire for input, and the satellite relay has three heavy gauge fused red wires for its input. How do i tap all four of these wires into this one blue / YELLOW ignition wire? This doesn't sound right to me, is it.

Do you guys solder all you connections, or maybe crimp first to make sure everything works then go back and solder?

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That is correct on 3 red or RED / stripe wires going to the one at the ignition harness. You can just use the 2 heavy gauge ones that are already fused instead of cutting the looped one.

The reason there are multiple 12 volt inputs for the relay satellite is because some vehicles will have several different feeds to the ignition switch.

Also, I think howie's right except for using GREEN/ red reverse as a neutral safety input???

My understanding of the neutral safety wire is that it's a vestige from the early days of remote starters(say mid to late 80s) where many cars and trucks were fuel injected and had mechanical starter safeties instead of using the switch on the transmission like they do now.
Apparently some models of GM had a separate wire which went to the engine control module that let it know when the shifter was in park or neutral. I have no idea why GM would bother, nor have I ever actually done an install using that wire, but it seems every manufacturer around at the time decided to have an input to use it and they haven't gotten rid of them since.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Ok, this helps. So how should i make the actual connections, with a really big crimp connector? I would have the three large gauge red wires from the relay, the small gauge red from the control module and the large gauge blue / YELLOW from battery on one side of the crimped connector. The other side would only have the one blue/ yellow wire to the ignition switch. is that right?

Or did you say i could use only one of the three reds into the rs relay.

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CW, What am I doing wrong here? I always wired that cable to either the parking brake on manuals or reverse on autos such that it sits on ground when brake up and goes pos when brake released or transmission shifted out of park.

Mark, solder, don't crimp unless you have a professional crimping tool. I only crimp grounding ring terminals. Also have fun if you use 530ts or similar for window closing, wiring is ign+, neg and data as far as the motor, the up and downs are attatched to the motor which on the back doors you have to drop to get at. It works beautifully but it's a right pain.

I never thought of that really - I guess it doesn't hurt to have the redundancy there. I've always just grounded the wire through the toggle switch DEI supplies.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hay guys, im finally making a little progress. I've got the siren and pin switch mounted under the hood and wires ran inside. I've started making control module connections and am at the dome light supervision wire. My install guild says the BLACK/ white (-) dome light output wire should be hooked to a relay to run the dome light because it only supplies 200mA. I have a disk from car alarm pros that says i can use the door trigger wire(GREEN/ orange) (-), to make this connection. Does this sound right to you guys, how should i do this and how will it work?

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Without going into explanations, if your alarm module has TWO BLACK/ whites, then join one to ground, the other to the alarm's green. If only ONE then alarm black white to relay 85, 12v+ to 86, ground to 87 and 30 to alarms green. Don't confuse yourself with too much information at this stage of the game.

N.B. If your dome light turns on on unlock or open door and stays on for either 30secs or so before door close and ign. on then you don't need it anyway!

Do the simple things first.

Thanks Howie, and yes my dome light stays on for 30 seconds after the door has been opened and closed. I've made some real progress here in two days I'm over half way through with my connections.

I had to skip the WHITE/ blue(-) remote start activation input wire. My install guild does not say where to connect it. It shows a diagram of it being connected to what looks like the hood pin switch, i've already made that connection, should this wire be connected there as well?

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That's not the hood pin, it's a regular momentary push button switch (like the valet/program switch DEI supplies with their alarms/RS).

That wire's purpose is to activate the remote start when it sees 1, 2, or 3 ground pulses(depending on what you've programmed it to). DEI suggests it can be wired to a push button switch so that the valet take-over can be done without fumbling for the remote, but your install will work fine without that wire connected to anything.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Thanks for the info on that, I think I will leave that one unconnected.

I'm getting down to the end, I have to install the antenna/reciever and the shock senser and make my heavy gauge wire connections to the rs satellite relay. I've already connected the three (red) 12v input wires to the constant 12 at the ignition. I'm i correct in these next steps? i completely cut the starter wire and connect the (purple) wire to the starter side wire and the (green) to the key side wire. The (orange) accessory output wire only gets tapped into the vehicle accessory wire for climate control. And the (pink) ignition output wire only gets tapped into the vehicle ignition wire. I don't think my car has a second ignition wire so i shouldn't have to connect the (pink/white). well thank again for all the help.

Hay, I've got three pages on this now, should i change the topic or just keep going?

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Can someone tell me the best way to make the heavy gauge connections for the rs satellite relay. I already have the two reds and one RED / white soldered to the constant 12 from the ignition. How do you guys do it, can i just strip the wire back a little and solder the other wire onto the side of it? also, the only wire i actually cut is the starter wire for the green and purple wires, right? I just want to be sure I'm reading this right.

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What you've done is correct, but there is a thick red in that area going to the fusebox which would stand you in better than the ign feed. Join your cables into one by soldering and sleeving then strip your feeder either with strippers, ideal standard etc or a stanley knife, push a small hole through it, run your cable through the hole and solder, make sure the solder flows, tape over (Scotch 33+) and you're done.Make sure the starter cut wires go the right way, i.e. to ign side and starter side.

As a point of interest because I was running other stuff through I ran all the starter cables to the battery.

Thanks man, Saterday morning ill be out there doing that. I'll let you know how far i get. iI'm hoping to be able to put the fuses back in and do some programing on the remote.

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The install is a success, partially . The alarm is fuctioning great, I will install the window module and trunk sileniod later.

The remote start will not keep the engine running. It start but immediately dies. I have the second accessory wire connected, i didn't at first. It is programmed to voltage sence and i think i have the run time set at 12 minutes. How can i find out if there is an immobilizer. Can you think of anything else that might cause this.

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An immobilizer wouldn't even let the engine crank, would it?

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Yes, there's an immobilizer on that vehicle. You are experiencing exactly what you should with that vehicle... it starts and then immediately dies. Put your factory key in the ignition and then remote starting without turning the key. It should run.

You'll need a universal bypass, such as DEI's 556U, and you'll lose one of your keys.

Thanks man, that's exactly what it was, I tried it with the key in and it started. I installed the 556u module and now it remote starts like it should but, only on the second crank. I push the button twice and it cranks briefely but does not start, then on it's own, after 5 or10 second or so it cranks again and does start successfully. Any ideas how to get it to fire on the first crank?

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That's par for the course with DEI's voltage sense on some vehicles...you can run a tach wire and program it and that will probably allow it to start on the first attempt.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Time for Uncle Howard to step in again; once you've installed a transponder by-pass there will be a delay whilst the transponder initialises. set your starter time to abput 1/3 to1/2 secs. You may find you need two attempts to start. I've also found that I some times need two attempts to start with the key, again transponder not always recognising it. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ATTEMPT TO INSTALL WINDOW CLOSERS WITH YOUR KNOWLEDGE LEVELS. The switch feeds live (ignition) ground and DATA to the motor. If you are lucky you will find the motor wires very close to the motor:- right side red=up, green=down. Left side reversed colours. If you are unlucky those "wires" will be internal and part of the one-touch control processor's circuit board. Are you prepared to track-break on a surface mount board and lead 4 wires out then seal off the motor housing? N.B.You will have to do this to each motor AND probably adjust the resistance settings on the 530t's because your glass will motor up(from the drive side switches), hit the top then come down 4"!!! Had this last week on a Montero so good luck.

After installing the 556u I thought it might have been a problem with the transponder unit or a voltage sense issue. It was actually just a program issue, I reprogrammed the crank time from 0.6 to 1.0 seconds and it starts first time every time. I'm pretty excited about that. All the alarm and remote start functions are working great now. I was just outside installing the trunk sileniod and relay for the pop trunk function. The only things left to do is hook up the rear defogger wire and the dome light supervision wire. I want to install the power windows module but, Howie is scaring the crap out of me with this 530t stuff ! I almost baught the module yesterday.

Can I find out if i will be lucky, as Howie said, or unlucky just by pulling the door panels and looking for the wires by the window motors? If I'm lucky I may try it.

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Where's my thanks Howie for telling me to change the crank time? Re the windows, hope you've got lots and lots of spare time and cables..

Hay thanks Howie for the tip on crank time, it works great. I can see in colder weather i may need to bump it back a bit further.

My dome light has the30 second delay after the door is closed, this means its on a relay, right? My door pins are (-), so can I just hook the black / white (-) 200mA domelight wire to the door pin wire?

And lastly, howie did you say you have a galant, what year. And are you sure i would have to solder wires inside the window motor housing on this particular car for the 530t. I havent dropped the door panels yet to take a look but I will this weekend. I hope to find wires.

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You don't need to use the BLACK/ white in your case. Mine's a 1999 with Concept 300 (upgraded UK version of Concept 100), intellistart, intellivoice, 2 x 530t and an Alpine sound system, Bluetooth etc.On mine the motor wires are red up green down right hand side and green up red down left hand side in black plastic sleeving. I went through the existing door tubes (lots of WD required) and you have to go to each motor, don't go to the driver door switch, it's data. The back ones were evil, you have to drop down the motor to get at them.

Hay guys, I just finished running the wires, mounting the sileniod and wiring up the relay for my power trunk pop. This car did not come a with factory power trunk so I baught and installed the 522t kit. Everything from the aux 2 button on the remote to the trunk works great. The problem is it will not release the the latch mechanism. Its like the sileniod isn't strong enough to pull the latch. This soleniod has a cable thats looped around a part of the latch mechanism and secured to itself. I mounted the sileniod inline with and as close to the latch as I could. Theres maybe 8'' of cable between latch and sileniod and I used a portion of the cable casing to keep from having any slack. I even tried loosening the mechanism springs a little to help it along, but the pressure from the trunk seal itself seems to be to much for it. Any ideas guys?

Howie does yours have pop trunk, factory or other wise?

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Post or PM me with your email address and I'l send you pictures. It was an absolute pig to get to work and I cut the cable from the original manual (pull) release to achieve it.

Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of the dei field disturbance sensor (508d), versus the ultrasonic sensor (509d). I want to be able to have the windows down and still have some level of interior protection. Is one of these units better than the other for this.

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mark 17 wrote:

Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of the dei field disturbance sensor (508d), versus the ultrasonic sensor (509d). I want to be able to have the windows down and still have some level of interior protection. Is one of these units better than the other for this.

Also, I have tinted windows, ( LLumar,5%-50% metalized film), will this give me problems?

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