2003 passat lock/unlock wiring

chriswallace187 wrote:

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First, make sure you've got the correct wires. They should go to 0V when the key is turned in the driver's key cylinder to lock or unlock respectively. Presumably the wires you're connecting to are at the driver's door switch.

If that checks out...which wires from the Clifford have you connected to them?

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There are no wires of this color at the switch itself.  I found these wires between the door and the car.  What difference does it make where the key is in the car.  When I lock or unlock my car I got the key in my hand....know what I mean?  lol

The two wires that I have tried connecting from the Clifford are the Power Lock(-), and the Power Unlock (-)

Here is the wiring for a 2002 Passat.  What does the door trigger do and what coming from the Clifford hooks to it?  The Instructions from the clifford say nothing of a "door trigger".

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - VOLKSWAGEN / PASSAT / 2002 / Remote Start

12volts  red   +  ignition harness Starter  RED / black   +  ignition harness Second Starter       Ignition  black   +  ignition harness Second Ignition       Third Ignition       Accessory  yellow/black   +  ignition harness Second Accessory       Keysense       Power Lock  RED / green   -  in driver door Power Unlock  RED / blue   -  in driver door Notes: Unlock requires a double pulse. First pulse will disarm the alarm and unlock the driver door, second pulse will unlock all the doors. Lock Motor       Unlock Motor       Parking Lights+  GREEN/ red    headlight switch Parking Lights-       Hazards       Turn Signal(L)       Turn Signal(R)       Reverse Light       Door Trigger  blue/gray   -  23 pin plug, pin 21 @ CCM Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. Dome Supervision  comes on with unlock     Trunk/Hatch Pin  BROWN / black   -  23 pin plug, pin 10 @ CCM Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. Hood Pin  BROWN / red   -  15 pin plug, pin 5 @ CCM Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. Trunk/Hatch Release  brn/gry or brn/grn   -  23 pin plug, pin 2 @ CCM Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. Power Sliding Door       Factory Alarm Arm  arms with lock     Factory Alarm Disarm  disarms with unlock     Disarm No Unlock       Tachometer      ignition coil or coil pack Notes: For tach go to one of the ignition coils or coil pack and use a wire that is NOT RED / green or BROWN / yellow. Wait to start       Brake Wire  RED / black   +  brake pedal switch Parking Brake       Horn Trigger  blk/yel (alarm horn)   +  15 pin plug, pin 11 @ CCM Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. Memory Seat 1       Memory Seat 2       Memory Seat 3       Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556U, 555B or 555U

My remote start is a Clifford Model RS1.1L.   It is just the remote start with no alarm.  I just wanted a remote start with the door lock/unlock/trunk feature.  Everything works but the lock/unlock.  The only thing to do on a VW to turn the alarm off before starting is to unlock the door. 

Here is what the Clifford says.......    Green(-) Lock   (+) Unlock

                                                       Blue (-) Lock (+) Unlock

[QUOTE=hurleyloser]use your factory disarm wire to prevent the alarm from going off while remote starting without having to unlock the doors. QUOTE]

My remote start has this wire..........where would it connect too? 

also, if i use a "idatalink"....  I find this interesting on their site for a VW.  The data cable connect to my remote start without any other wires, but this is the only wires that connect to the car.  It shows two wires connect to the door kick panel, but I don't recognise what they mean.  See this part for yourself.    The wire color don't match what directwire says though.  Whast does CANH and CANL mean?

Yes, Howie, I understand, but you told me the colors of the wires on the Remote Start on the clifford.  I already know them because they are green and blue because I am holding them on in my hand.  Once again I am not asking for any color of any wire on the clifford unit.  I simply need to know where to hook these wires up at and what color on the VW.  No one has told me the wires that I need to hook to as of yet. 

As listed by directwire, I hooked to these color wires in the door jam itself and they don't work at all.  Is there another set of these wires located IN the actual door?   I pulled the switch part out very easy and these colors are not there at all.  Do I need to further disassemble the door and find another set of RED / Green and RED / Blue to hook my Clifford's Blue and Green too?

What from the clifford remote start hooks to this "door trigger"?

I have a "Factory alarm disarm" supplied from the clifford......but as you can see above.......   nothing.  blah. 

If you're not finding the color wires that they listed, test the other wires in the driver door harness.  DO NOT test the lock/unlock wires by simply pushing the button, you will get nothing, as you are currently getting.  MAKE SURE that you are testing wires with the Key in the DRIVER door cylinder and turn the key to lock.....test the wires....then turn it to unlock...and test it again.  Keep testing those wires until you find the wires that DROP to 0 volts when you turn the key in the cylinder both ways. 

You are getting help from some really knowledgable people who know that they are doing, and it sounds like you are not heeding their advice.  Even though the wires that directwire listed are not the same color, they ARE still in there.  All you have to do is test....and test some more...and if you can't find it test some more.  you will find it if you keep looking.  Do Not get discouraged as that will only hinder your ability to get it working. 

As far as what wire to hook to the door trigger, you said yourself that you are not installing an alarm, so there should not be a door trigger wire from the clifford unit.  If there is, it would be a green wire, and it'll be listed as ( - ) door trigger.   

good luck

joch1314 wrote:

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If you're not finding the color wires that they listed, test the other wires in the driver door harness.  DO NOT test the lock/unlock wires by simply pushing the button, you will get nothing, as you are currently getting.  MAKE SURE that you are testing wires with the Key in the DRIVER door cylinder and turn the key to lock.....test the wires....then turn it to unlock...and test it again.  Keep testing those wires until you find the wires that DROP to 0 volts when you turn the key in the cylinder both ways. 

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Awesome!  Thank you.  This is some very good clues!  I bet I can find these wires at the door cylinder switch instead of the push button switch.  As far as testing the wires......YES, it is a real pain.  I have yet to successfully get the door cover off.  Partly because I don't wanna break any clips or scratch anything. 

To futher clarify.......  lets say I test the wires at the lock and find one that DROPS to 0v when I turn the cylinder to LOCK.  This is where I hook the LOCK on the clifford.  In turn, I find the one thet drops to 0v for the unlock and hook the UNLOCK to to this one. 

Sorry to everyone that is trying to help.  I am just frustrated with all the testing, testing, testing and nothing.  Also, I called the Cliffort people to see if they would help and they really wized me off.  They won't even tell you the simplist thing unless you pay to be a dealer for them.  I just wanted to know about the door trigger with no alarm.  They could have just simply said don't use it.

Did I mention I hate vacuum lock setups? lol

Once again, thanks to all.  I will try this again tomorrow during daylight hours.

I didn't mention the factory colors in the car because it had already been said. I know you don't have a remote start/alarm, the purpose of hooking up the factory disarm wire FROM the clifford TO the car is to disarm the car's factory alarm automatically before remote start. This way when you remote start the car, the factory alarm will not start honking like it's being broken into/stolen. Like it has been said before, the wires you're looking for should be in the driver's door, wheather or not they are the colors you have been given, they are there. The easiest way to find them would be to follow wires coming from the driver's door key cylinder which WILL involve removing the entire door panel and running wires into the door through the door boot (or molex plug) DO NOT just connect wires from the remote start to wires in the car that you think are them without testing, you could seriously damage your car's electrical system if you send the wrong pulse down the wrong wire. Be ESPECIALLY careful with the bypass module. Can Hi and Can Low wires are NOT something you want to pulse random signals, this type of foolishness could render your car innoperable.

Green from the clifford is lock and will connect to RED / green IN THE CAR, blue is unlock and will connect to RED / blue IN THE CAR, your factory disarm wire FROM THE CLIFFORD will also connect to your RED / blue unlock wire in the car.

The technical support group at Clifford did not help you out because their systems are designed to be PROFESSIONALLY installed, and they will not warranty or encourage their products to be installed by anyone else other than an authorized retailer with professional technicians.

As stated before, if you're truely confident by all means continue the installation yourself, but don't go doing foolish things like splicing wires without testing. Test your wires to know you have the right ones first.

Another way to test your wires is by connecting your positive lead on your multimeter to a constant 12v source (a wire that is hot at all times wheather the car is on or off) and probe the wire you are testing with your negative lead. Once you've done that turn the key in the driver's door cylinder and watch for the meter to show 12v ONLY while you're holding the key in the lock/unlock position. when you return the key back to neatural position, it should read 0v.

This is starting to get stupid. THESE WIRES ARE NOT IN THE DOOR JAM OR IN THE CAR OR ON THE LOCK SWITCH IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR. IN ALL THESE PLACES these are data signals not voltage. Remove door panel, look at a loom attached to the inner metal skin. It runs from the lock mechanism to the processor attached to your window motor. Nothing to do with the lock switch, this is a different circuit which will lock/unlock but not deadlock and will not turn off the factory alarm. don't use it. Throw the catch on the door lock before testing otherwise it won't work. Did you say you already had it working? I noticed you mentioned can units. You will need one as A) you have to by-pass the transponder and B) The factory alarm. IS YOUR CAR MANUAL OR AUTO?

Awesome.  Thank you guys so much for clearing this up.  Now I just have to take the door apart when I get off work.  I had the bottom part of the door off, but didn't take the top part off yet to get to the actual door locking mechanism yet.  I had to hurry and put the stuff back together to drive the car to work today.

My other question about the remote start system is that when I start the car...   the parking lights flash on and off while it is running , no horn blowing or anything.....  Is this standard on the  Clifford (as some people have stated in another forum), or is this because I am not deactivating the factory alarm with the unlock?

2nd, Do I hook my Clifford Factory alarm DISARM and Facory alarm DISARM to these same door locking wires?

howie ll wrote:

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This is starting to get stupid. THESE WIRES ARE NOT IN THE DOOR JAM OR IN THE CAR OR ON THE LOCK SWITCH IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR. IN ALL THESE PLACES these are data signals not voltage. Remove door panel, look at a loom attached to the inner metal skin. It runs from the lock mechanism to the processor attached to your window motor. Nothing to do with the lock switch, this is a different circuit which will lock/unlock but not deadlock and will not turn off the factory alarm. don't use it. Throw the catch on the door lock before testing otherwise it won't work. Did you say you already had it working? I noticed you mentioned can units. You will need one as A) you have to by-pass the transponder and B) The factory alarm. IS YOUR CAR MANUAL OR AUTO?

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I haven't hooked them up, because i was unsure.  You also have to realize that I have been confused very much by conflicting information that I have been finding on the web and other forums.  Thats why I came here to ask you guys BEFORE doing any wiring in the door.   

I will find these two colored wires at the door cylinder lock itself when I get home or this weekend.  My only other question is about what another person said about using the Cliffords factory alarm arm/disarm to unlock doors, start car, lock doors back when I just hit the button to start the car.....    Do I hook these wires in the same door lock/unlock location?

Just asking questions, guys.  No need to get upset.  Remember........  the two wires I tested in the door jam also run almost the entire length in the door and I could have easily made a huge mistake and hooked up to them because, hey, they are "in the door".  LOL.  Thank goodness for this forum and your help or I probably would have.  I was clueless that the correct wires of the same color are actually located at the door locking cylinder itself.  I thank you.  If I can, I will post a pic of this elusive door lock cylinder & wires, because I have yet to actuallys see one on the net doing a search.

Still waiting on a answer to the factory alarm/disarm method another mentioned.  They hook to the same wires?

chriswallace187 wrote:

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As mentioned by all others earlier: in DEI-speak, "in driver's door" never ever equals "in the boot running into the car."

The wires you need for lock and unlock run from the key cylinder to the window/lock switch(which has a microprocessor inside that converts the commands "Key cylinder lock" "switch unlock" etc. into data signals for the other control modules which actually do the unlocking).

In order to control the locks on your car, you have to actually run those 2 wires inside the door to the key cylinder or the window switch, or use a data module like that Idatalink piece you've mentioned.

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Hummm.......  I see you mentioned they run from the cylinder to the window/lock switch...  I didn't find these wire colors (directwire info) there at all at the switch and the wires are really tiny by the way.  The window/lock switch is really easy to remove and wouldn't even require removing door panel.  Not my luck i'm sure.  I'll just have to take the cover off and find the wire coming from the lock cylinder.  I just hate european door panels.  The idatalink is easy because you can just wire in at the driver side kick panel, but it also cost $90.  I'm sure its not worth that to just run 2 wires in the backside of your door to the lock.

Do yourself a favor and take the door panel off.  take it off.  (one more time) take the door panel off!  Trying to work on a car without the proper panels removed is like trying to rebuild the engine through the tailpipe.

The wires you are looking for are not, NOT, at the window/lock switch panel.  As stated above they are connected to the door lock module inside the door which cannot be accessed by simply removing the window/lock switch panel.

The parking lights will flash when it's remote started unless you program it for constant, Feature 4.  Also do yourself a favor and turn off the ignition controlled locks, Feature 17 and 18. 

The factory alarm will be accompanied by the horn honking.  If the horn doesn't honk, then the alarm hasn't been set off.

As far as the factory alarm goes, if the idatalink doesn't already turn off the factory alarm, then you'll have to connect the Alarm-Disarm wire from the Clifford to the Unlock of the car, and diode isolate.

Keep up the trial and error and you'll get it.  Remember, all of us here started out the same way.

howie ll wrote:

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READ .......

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Can we add blinking lights to Howie II's post?

megaman wrote:

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Do yourself a favor and take the door panel off.  take it off.  (one more time) take the door panel off!  Trying to work on a car without the proper panels removed is like trying to rebuild the engine through the tailpipe.

The wires you are looking for are not, NOT, at the window/lock switch panel.  As stated above they are connected to the door lock module inside the door which cannot be accessed by simply removing the window/lock switch panel.

The parking lights will flash when it's remote started unless you program it for constant, Feature 4.  Also do yourself a favor and turn off the ignition controlled locks, Feature 17 and 18. 

The factory alarm will be accompanied by the horn honking.  If the horn doesn't honk, then the alarm hasn't been set off.

As far as the factory alarm goes, if the idatalink doesn't already turn off the factory alarm, then you'll have to connect the Alarm-Disarm wire from the Clifford to the Unlock of the car, and diode isolate.

Keep up the trial and error and you'll get it.  Remember, all of us here started out the same way.

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LOL, Yeah, Howie gets a little upset don't he?    Don't get your panties in a wad over this man.  I am just making double,  even triple, sure before I hook stuff up on a vacuum system that I am not familiar with.

Great info Megaman!  These features you talk about are mentioned ,ONLY MENTIONED ,in my Clifford Manual.  They say nothing on how to program these features and no instructions on actually how to do so whatsoever.  Not my fault this time.... just no instructions.  Do I need the special programming tool to do this or is it done with the Remote? Not sure what you mean about the ignition controlled locks (feature 17 and 18) and what benifit I have by changing this feature.  This isn't mentioned in the manual in any way. 

I am not using a idatalink so I will just have to hook up the disarm wire up to the unlock as well.  I will hook up the re-arm so it will lock back after starting too.    What type of diode should I use (radio shack is where I will get it) and I suppose I should place one on the re-arm as well?

Also, as far as the VW factory alarm.....  I really don't see a purpose.  I am not deactivating it now and the car starts just fine.

I am not using a idatalink so I will just have to hook up the disarm wire up to the unlock as well.  I will hook up the re-arm so it will lock back after starting too.    What type of diode should I use (radio shack is where I will get it) and I suppose I should place one on the re-arm as well?

[/QUOTE]

Oh, the only reason I want to use the factory arm/disarm to do the locks when starting is just in case I don't have the doors locked when I start it and when the Clifford re-arms the system, the doors lock.  A running car with no one in it isn't a good idea around here.  Especially if the hazards are flashing to draw even more added attention.

Ignition controlled locks are your door locks controlled by your ignition.  So, when you turn your key in the ignition, the doors lock.  When you turn your car off with the key, they unlock.  Here's the scenario most of my customers fall under:

Get in the car but leave the door open.

Start the car with the key, and forget something in the house.

Get out, and close the door

THUNK!!!! doors lock.

Now they're locked out of their car.

megaman wrote:

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Ignition controlled locks are your door locks controlled by your ignition.  So, when you turn your key in the ignition, the doors lock.  When you turn your car off with the key, they unlock.  Here's the scenario most of my customers fall under:

Get in the car but leave the door open.

Start the car with the key, and forget something in the house.

Get out, and close the door

THUNK!!!! doors lock.

Now they're locked out of their car.

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LOL, Howie, I just made the vacuum lock comment to get you riled up, son.  Check your bloodpressure and learn to take a joke.  Just getting lots of info and double checking before proceeding.  If you don't wanna contribute then you don't have to read this thread ya know.  Nothing wrong with double checking stuff.  Just like this diode idea I am asking about.   Its not in any manual that I have........ so I ask someone who has done it before or knows more about it.  They are nice enough to explain it and contribute information.

Thanks again, Megaman. Ah, I know what ya mean.  My doors lock after I pull the car into Drive, so I think its safe to agree I am safe on that one. Right? Also, with the key in the ignition and the door open, the doors won't lock if the lock button is accidently pressed on the door either.

Any info on what type of diode(s) I need to get?  Radio Shack or an automotive place be better to get them?

Ok so we'll take this Ignition controlled locks one step at a time.  

Open the door and get into the car.  Keep the door open.

Start the car with the key.  Get out of the car and close the door. 

With Ignition controlled locks, which is programmed from the manufacturer on your Valet unit, when you close the door, it will automatically lock the doors.  It has nothing to do with the auto-locks in Drive on the car, or if you do or don't press the lock/unlock on the factory keyfob.  The Valet will automatically lock your doors on you.  So if you don't have a spare key, or key-fob outside the vehicle, you'll be calling AAA to unlock your now running car.

For the diodes, you can get them at your local Rat Shack, (You've got questions? so do we.) 1N4005.  You'll need two of them.

The other trick you can do, is use the Alarm-disarm/Rearm from the Valet to control your locks instead of the blue/green lock outputs.  Then no diodes.

Okay so now I get the dunce cap for the moment.  I mixed up the models for the RS you're installing.

For ignition controlled locks you'll need to change Feature 1-3 and 1-4 to turn off the ignition controlled locks.

For your parking light output, it's Feature 2-4.  This will create a constant parking output.

You'll need to read pages 1-44.  Or to skip to the programming pages, read pages 30 - 32.

megaman wrote:

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Ok so we'll take this Ignition controlled locks one step at a time.  

Open the door and get into the car.  Keep the door open.

Start the car with the key.  Get out of the car and close the door. 

With Ignition controlled locks, which is programmed from the manufacturer on your Valet unit, when you close the door, it will automatically lock the doors.  It has nothing to do with the auto-locks in Drive on the car, or if you do or don't press the lock/unlock on the factory keyfob.  The Valet will automatically lock your doors on you.  So if you don't have a spare key, or key-fob outside the vehicle, you'll be calling AAA to unlock your now running car.

For the diodes, you can get them at your local Rat Shack, (You've got questions? so do we.) 1N4005.  You'll need two of them.

The other trick you can do, is use the Alarm-disarm/Rearm from the Valet to control your locks instead of the blue/green lock outputs.  Then no diodes.

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Does this matter if I did not use a valet key in the imobizer bybass box?  I took a blank key to the dealer (valet shape) and had it cut as a regular key to do all the options (door, trunk, glove, gas cap, etc)   I noticed the car does not auto lock with this one in it.   Am I still safe?

howie ll wrote:

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OK I've had a bad day but you don't seem to be listening, diodes are 1N4001, I prefer 4004 because it has a higher voltage rating, bands towards alarm.

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Awesome, Howie!  I heard the 4004 was better also. And thanks for the band info so I don't have to ask.  LOL

megaman wrote:

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Okay so now I get the dunce cap for the moment.  I mixed up the models for the RS you're installing.

For ignition controlled locks you'll need to change Feature 1-3 and 1-4 to turn off the ignition controlled locks.

For your parking light output, it's Feature 2-4.  This will create a constant parking output.

You'll need to read pages 1-44.  Or to skip to the programming pages, read pages 30 - 32.

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We must not be looking at the same book at all.  My clifford came with a 14 page instruction book that had nothing on the programming.  Do I have to have a special tool to plug in and program, or does it use the valet button and fob?  I would like to see this book your looking at.  I will see if I can get .PDF from their site.

dreyfusduke wrote:

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Does this matter if I did not use a valet key in the imobizer bybass box?  I took a blank key to the dealer (valet shape) and had it cut as a regular key to do all the options (door, trunk, glove, gas cap, etc)   I noticed the car does not auto lock with this one in it.   Am I still safe?

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chriswallace187 wrote:

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On the same note, your bypass will probably need hardwired into the antenna wires from the key cylinder.

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I already have all that done and the car starts just fine.  Thanks for the added info.  My 556uw instructions listed how to use the factory 2 wire trasponder ring instead of using their supplied antenna ring.  It works very well and the VW key fits neatly in the box.

When you buy a Clifford RS or alarm or whatever, you should have gotten two booklets.  One is your user manual, the other is the installation manual.  If you didn't get them, then you either bought it at a flea market, or someone ripped you. 

Well, there are hundreds on Ebay and independant sites that are selling these name brand remote start systems for 1/3, sometimes 1/4, the price that an installer would charge for them.  They are new in the factory sealed box. 

Example... this one is $99 but $15 for shipping.  (https://cgi./New-Clifford-Matrix-RS1-1L-Remote-Start-1-Mile-Range_....c0.m14)

There are websites where you can purchase 5 units for $380 and free shipping.  Just do a google search as I won't post them for privacy issues.  Remember, there is a lot of  internet "FILTERING" that is done from Europe.  Thats all I will say about that issue.

(P.S I finally found my other booklet.  Teach me to keep an better eye on my dog) 

Viper and Clifford are both made in China.  Says so right on the bottom of box.  SIde of box it says "Directed Products, Designed and Engineered by the United States".  Key point is......... If its made in China....... you can get it dirt cheap off the net.  In some cases it is really better to just have an installer put it in.  (Example......... a friend of mine had a simple viper remote start installed on there Pontiac Grand Am for just $95 at the local Audio Center. Tell them you have a VW or BMW and they freak out.)

Very easy to purchase, even in the U.S.  Kinda like how its illegal now to purchase the new lasers that are <5mw and stronger.......   the market is flooded with them now. 

All it cost me was some wire connections, $99 for system shipped to my door, and catching some hell in a forum for asking a simple question about the door wires.  I feel its worth it way better for paying next to 3 times that!  I am not ashamed that I had to ask about the door wires in any way.  Thats what forums are for........ to ask the experts like you guys so the people who wish to learn don't make horrible mistakes.

Plus, I trust my soldering connections more than the installers dinky crimp connections.  No wonder it doesn't take them as long to install.  I know time is money, but I trust my work better than a 18 year old with a crimper.  Not saying they are all bad....  just seen some of the shotty work done at some local shops that don't take there time.

Last thing.........  this was just a thread that was asking a question about the door wires.  Thank you for your replies and very knowledgeable answers.  Especially about the diodes and such.  Lots and lots of info about those as well on this site.