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2000 dodge ram, viper 1000

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=106982
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 5:27 PM


Topic: 2000 dodge ram, viper 1000

Posted By: n2cummins
Subject: 2000 dodge ram, viper 1000
Date Posted: August 23, 2008 at 1:06 PM

I've got a 2000 dodge diesel and I had a installer put in this alarm and have had a few problems.  I had him install the starter kill and this is the second time this has happened.  But what happened was the first time I hit the unlock and lock button by accident and my truck would not start guess it thought I was trying to steal it.  So I just locked and unlocked it by the remote a few times and then things were like before good as new.  Well this last time my fiance was messing with my remote and I tried to fix it like I did before and with no luck.  So I checked all the fuses and my starter fuse was blown.  So I went in and disconnected my starter kill on my alarm and reconnected it like it was factory.  I'm just wondering I wanted to reinstall my starter kill but don't know how I should go about it.  I hear my alarm has a built in relay for the starter kill and I hear it might be bad even though the alarm is brand new.  Could I install an aftermarket relay between the alarm and the starter wire?  And if so how would i go about it?  Thank you



Replies:

Posted By: audioinstaller3
Date Posted: August 24, 2008 at 12:57 AM
Is it just an alarm or an alarm and remote start system? So all you did was re splice the starter wire back together...basically disconnecting it from the relay. Just re hook it up to the relay, if you removed the relay. You can add another one....radioshack for like $7. hook the relay up like this. 86 to orange wire(ground when armed), 30 to ignition side of the starter wire. 87 to the starter side...wire. and 85 to ignition 12v.

If your unsure don't be messing with your car and cutting wires. I had an idiot customer cut his airbag wires because he didn't know what the hell he was doing. So take it back to the shop and have them fix it.




Posted By: n2cummins
Date Posted: August 27, 2008 at 11:50 AM
Ok, now my other question is.  My alarm has a seperate harness for the immobilizer there are 3 wires and your supposed to use 2 of the 3 wires depending on if your ignition system is normally open or closed circuit.  Well you say to hook up the external relay by hooking 86 to the ground when armed wire which of these  3 wires is that?  Or would I just hook it up to some other wire and bypass this harness all together?  Thanks




Posted By: n2cummins
Date Posted: August 27, 2008 at 12:30 PM
Also how could I go about testing this to make sure it works?  Just arm the alarm with the window down and then get in and try to start it?  Will this test work?




Posted By: n2cummins
Date Posted: August 28, 2008 at 7:15 PM
How would I go about installing a pin switch on the fuel door of my truck?  I've got a viper 1000 alarm.  Also any idea about installing one on my hood to?  Thanks




Posted By: reax222
Date Posted: August 29, 2008 at 5:46 AM
I am not familiar with your alarm, but you can probably add the neg triggers to an input.

The hood pin is pretty straight forward, drill a hole or add a bracket. Jamb nut the switch and run the wire back. Space is going to be limited on the fuel door. Perhaps a magnetic reed switch would be an easy option.




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: August 29, 2008 at 6:28 AM

Magnetic reed switch is the ticket, sticks on and the only hole to drill is for wires...



-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: n2cummins
Date Posted: August 29, 2008 at 10:17 AM
I have to additional wires one for hood and one for trunk or anything you would want ie fuel door.  They are negative trigger's I believe.  So I could just mount the switches and run the wires to the alarm and that would be it huh?




Posted By: reax222
Date Posted: August 29, 2008 at 12:38 PM
Pretty much, as long as they are neg triggers and you have the switches setup to send a ground only when the panels are open. The hood pins typically self ground. The reed switch will need to be grounded.




Posted By: n2cummins
Date Posted: September 19, 2008 at 7:12 PM
I have succesfully mounted the pin switch for my fuel door.  And now I'm trying to figure out how to wire it up.  I have 2 available wires on my alarm to choose from.  I have a wire for zone 1 and zone 6, they are both negative wire's at least that's how I take it.  Now my switch has a common terminal and a normally closed and normally open terminal.  I would guess that since the switch will be closed when the door is shut, That I will need to hook that terminal up.  Is this correct and if so what do I hook the wire from the alarm up to on the switch?  I mean what wire needs to be hooked to the common terminal on the pin switch?  And what do I hook up to the normally closed terminal on the switch?  Also it is not a self grounding switch so Do I need to ground it?  Thanks for any help




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 19, 2008 at 7:50 PM

What kind of switch are you using?   You will need to ground the common terminal of the switch.  Depending on the type of switch and how you have the actuator set up, will determine if you use the N.O or the N.C. connection





Posted By: n2cummins
Date Posted: September 20, 2008 at 12:25 PM

Thanks.  I figured it out last night.  I wired it up normally closed and grounded the common terminal.  I soldered all the connections and everything works great.  Oh, the switch I'm using is a micro switch with a small lever with a roller tip.  I tried the 2 piece reed switch and for this application the micro switch is far superior.  It is much smaller and is capable of being mounted in some pretty crazy places. 






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