06 caravan, remote starter

I am working on a 2006 Dodge Caravan vehicle and this vehicle has a 2nd starter and needs a PKUCH2X bypass module.

I am wondering can I connect directly any "Ground Output When Running" wires or do I have to use a relay for each. I ask this because the transponder bypass and the 2nd starter relay both need to be connected to this output of the remote start module. So can I just connect these 2 connections together or can this cause problems?

For the PKUCH2X bypass there are 2 connections both labelled"MUX (Violet/Brown) Located in Ignition Harness" their purpose is to "Starter/2nd Start & Accessory (Resistance) Activation" there is a illustration showing one wire going to the Ignition harness and another to the BCM but where do I connect these exactly?

I bought this bypass for a 2006 Dodge Caravan and I am having the biggest trouble programming the transponder.

I did all the steps and I just can't get it programmed. I put the key in without the factory transponder and put the ByPassKit next to it and the ALARM light keeps blinking and it won't program. I tried 10 times.

First you are using a key with the integrated door remote on it right? I have had almost perfect results with programming using the following method. Insert first key and turn to on for 7 sec. Insert second key and the remove second key. Insert second key again and turn on. Security light will go out and then start blinking again. Now remove the electronics from key 1 and insert , turn to on while holding the bypass kit up to the transponder ring at the ignition barrel. Keep there until the light goes out. Trust me it will work. A test to see if it worked is to use the same key 1 without the electronics in it and hold the bypass by the ignition barrel, turn on, if light goes out, you're a winner!

Yes  its the key with the integrated door remote.

When you say "Insert second key and remove second key" you just want me to put it in and take it straight out? Not turn it anywhere?

howie ll wrote:

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The current needed to switch these is quite low and shouldn't need relay switching, I would diode them though, 1N400 series with the bands towards the R/S.

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howie ll wrote:

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You don't need to use the ground output for the second starter, sorry, just had another look at your first post. join starter output to 86, as well as first starter, grounmd to 85, permanent via 30amp fuse to 87 and 30 to 2nd starter wire.

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In the installation manual it states to not use a relay on the first starter only the second.

Also which way should the diodes point for the Ground Output when running connection? Towards the R/S?

chriswallace187 wrote:

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Adaseb, I responded to your other post. For future reference you shouldn't start a new thread for separate questions on the same install, just post them all in the original. No biggie though, you're new here.

Clearly, one thing that may be confusing you is that you're looking at Directwire information(hence the references to those 2 documents) and Bypasskit info as well(they are owned by Directed now but weren't at the time the PKU-CH2X was developed). Anyway...

Ignore Doc1083 completely(and the concerns you had about relay/diodes for the ground-when-running). The PKUCH2X takes care of the 2nd start via the wire(s) which go to the violet/brown on the car. This violet/brown wire, which runs from the ignition switch to the BCM, is
referred to in the complete vehicle wiring as the "2nd starter" and in Bypasskit's manual as the "mux". They are one and the same.

The positive start and ignition don't need diode isolated whatsoever.

For transponder programming - reread the 2nd page of the PKUCH2X's manual. The key disassembly method they show will work like a charm.

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Thank you for the info. So that image that I uploaded in my other thread describing the "Chrysler 2nd starter diagram" I should ignore and instead just cut the Violet/Brown wire and connect the Ignition Harness side to the GREEN connection on the bypass and the BCM side of the wire to the Violet/White of the bypass correct?

So there is no need for the relay or the 180Ohm resistor?

I am still having issues programming the PKUCH2X.

I tried it about 20 times and it just wont program. Once I left it there for 1 hour to program and it never did.

Is there a possibility that my PKUCH2X is faulty?

chriswallace187 wrote:

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Howie, that's what I get paid absolutely nothing for.

Adaseb, it's possible that you've got a faulty module. If for some reason it was ever programmed to another Chrysler vehicle it's useless on any other.
Also, if you're trying to use the same key turning the ignition on twice, it's not going to ever going to go into programming mode. You have to have 2 different keys which will start the car.

I would suspect more likely that you're not going into the program mode correctly. It definitely doesn't take an hour.

What I'd suggest you do is the following way, which I've used on this style of Chrysler:

Disassemble one of the 2 factory remote keys. Separate the circuit board(which contains the transponder) from the housing(which the key shaft is part of).

Once you've done that, hold the circuit board close to the key cylinder with one hand and use the housing to turn the key to "run". When the red security light has gone off after 3 or 4 seconds or so, turn it off and set both pieces reasonably far away from the key cylinder(passenger or back seat will do).

Within 10 seconds, take the other, still assembled remote key and turn the ignition to "run". This time the light should come on for the same 3 or 4 seconds, go off, and then between 10 or 20 seconds later the light will flash and/or a chime will sound. Once either of those happens you know you're in "programming mode".

Within 60 seconds of that, grab the empty remote housing(keep the remote circuitry separate), hold the PKUCH2X up to the key cylinder as shown in the picture on page 2 of its manual, and turn the key to "run" again. Keep the PKUCH2X there until the security light stops flashing and/or you hear another chime.

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chriswallace187 wrote:

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That may be the case if you're doing all the above steps. Where was this unit purchased from?

One other thing...I've just noticed this supplement from Bypasskit in regards to programming with a remote key. The position of the bypass in this document is slightly different so I'd recommend you take a look.

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