98 lexus es300, alarm/remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=107620
Printed Date: May 20, 2024 at 11:53 AM
Topic: 98 lexus es300, alarm/remote start
Posted By: vdubill
Subject: 98 lexus es300, alarm/remote start
Date Posted: September 22, 2008 at 4:54 PM
Hello, I have a '98 Lexus ES300 that I am installing an alarm/RS system on. I have everything wired up except for a couple of wires. I found the door trigger and I had it hooked up for the alarm part of the system and it was triggering the system fine. When I tried to setup the domelight portion of the alarm, i guess I touched some bad wires and saw a bit of a spark. Now, the door trigger is not triggering for the alarm. I checked all of the fuses and they appear to be working. When I turn the domelight off of the "DOOR" setting to just "ON" it comes on with no problem. But in "DOOR" mode it does nothing. The lights on my doors come on when the door is opened, but the dome does nothing. Does anybody have an idea of what I may have blown, and is it easily fixable. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks
vdub
Replies:
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 22, 2008 at 5:02 PM
Hello, I have a '98 Lexus ES300 that I am installing an alarm/RS system on. I have everything wired up except for a couple of wires. I am running into a problem of the car not staying running after it remote starts. The system I am installing is an APS920 from Prestige. I have not yet installed the bypass module so I have been putting my key into the ignition whilst testing. When I dont have the key in the ignition, it does not start as expected. However, when i put the key into the ignition, the car will start and then 3-5 seconds later it cuts off as if the brake pedal were pushed or something. I thought it might be because I didnt have the bypass installed yet, but that doesnt make much sense if the key is in the ignition. I am pretty sure that I have all of the main ign/start/12V wires hooked up, but there is 1 wire in the harness(of the car) that I did not hook up as the wiring diagram that I used did not call for it, bcuz there are two red wires(from the RS unit) that call for constant 12v that I have going to the same wire(from the car).
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks
vdub
Posted By: reax222
Date Posted: September 23, 2008 at 12:30 AM
Starting should mean that you have met the conditions for RS. Unless something changes, it should stay running. As you noted, there are a couple of wires that if they short will kill the engine (off the top of my head those are hood pin and brake.)
I don't know your system or how you have it wired, but did you do the key sense wire? It's conceivable that the RS will only keep the motor running a few seconds with the key in the cylinder.
I would suggest doing the bypass and seeing what happens. You might also try testing the coils/injectors and fuel pump to see if the ECM is shutting them off while the RS stays on.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: September 23, 2008 at 1:39 AM
The bypass isn't an issue with the key in the ignition. That's more likely to be an issue with the tach sensing. Where do you have the tach wire connected to and how did you attempt to program it?
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 23, 2008 at 10:02 AM
Im at work now and i dont remember which wire i have the tach connected to, but before I programmed the tach it would not start at all.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 24, 2008 at 6:01 AM
Tach wire is a black with silver dots on OBD II under dash. Ign sense WILL need to be connected. There is another kickpanel fuse controlling domelights, I can't be precise 'cause I'm talking about UK right hand drive version, I've pulled this stunt you will have to physically check every fuse, it's NOT obviously conected to the dome light circuit
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 25, 2008 at 9:34 AM
more than 1 kickpanel with fuse? I shall check when i get home. hopefully it is as simple as that.
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 29, 2008 at 2:14 AM
Hello, I have a '98 Lexus ES300 that I am installing an alarm/RS system on. I have everything wired up except for a couple of wires. I found the door trigger and I had it hooked up for the alarm part of the system and it was triggering the system fine. When I tried to setup the domelight portion of the alarm, i guess I touched some bad wires and saw a bit of a spark. Now, the door trigger is not triggering for the alarm. I checked all of the fuses and they appear to be working. When I turn the domelight off of the "DOOR" setting to just "ON" it comes on with no problem. But in "DOOR" mode it does nothing. The lights on my doors come on when the door is opened, but the dome does nothing. Does anybody have an idea of what I may have blown, and is it easily fixable. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks vdub
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 29, 2008 at 2:26 AM
Hello, I am trying to install a DEI 555X bypass module on my 98 Lexus ES300. It looks like i dont have the wires running right. I have grounded the unit, powered it to the 12v constant, and hooked up the remote from the RS unit(aps920). The bypass powers up when trying to RS, but it cant learn the signal. When I tried to start the car using the key, after connecting the bypass wires, it would not start. I cut the data wire (Grn/Wht) and i connected the yellow wire(From The ByPass) to the end coming from the ignition. Then i connected yellow/blk(FTBP) wire the other end, that goes back into the wiring loom. I connected the violet/blk wire to the clock wire(R/Blue). Then i connected the violet wire to the corresponding wire for the R/Blue wire on the other side of the white connector (that wire is solid white). Then i connected the Brown wire to Blue/Y wire of the car. Has anyone installed this bypass on one of these cars or have an idea what might be wrong? Also, when i wire the bypass harness up, should I be able to start the car with the key, or would the bypass have to be connected. When i cut the data wire the car would not start, and i didnt know if somehow the bypass wiring rejoins that connection. Any help would be appreiciated. I connected the data wire back together so the car starts now, but i need to get this figured out for my RS system to work. Thanks vdub
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: September 29, 2008 at 10:35 AM
to be clear... you have violet going to the KEY side of the clock wire? and violet/black going to car side? did you connect key sense? did you program the module first? the module should act as a pass-thru when not activated... which leads me to think you have a wire (clock or data) reversed somewhere.... ------------- Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 29, 2008 at 2:58 PM
yes, violet is going to the side that goes toward the key, and violet/black is going to the side that goes back into the wiring loom and is RED / blue. Now I did not cut this wire, i just used a splice from the RED / blue wire, and for the violet wire, i used a splice from the corresponding wire on the other side of the plastic bracket, and that wire is solid white. Should I have cut this wire and wired it up like the data wire?
I connected the keysense wire to blue/black wire from the ignition.
I was not able to program the module, as now, the RS will not start the car even with the Key in it.
So, if I had this all hooked up correctly, would the car be able to start using the key even if I had not programmed the module?
Posted By: tall technician
Date Posted: September 29, 2008 at 9:17 PM
re check both fuse boxes if nothing still, check in driver side kick panel u should locate the four door triggers there, u can run it directly to the dome light if it's a negative trigger if positive use a relay positive to neg, check relay section of this site for diagram
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installin's easy. its da customers who make it hard.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: September 30, 2008 at 2:24 PM
YES THE INSTALL DIAGRAM SHOWS YOU CUT AND INTERRUPT both the clock and data wires.... hence, one side is key side and one side is car side... try to hook it up correctly and see what happens....
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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 30, 2008 at 3:52 PM
thanks,
I shall give it a try as soon as I get home. and let you know whats going on.
vdub
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 30, 2008 at 6:14 PM
r all of the door triggers on the passenger side?
I would prefer to run it directly to the domelight, but that wire is not getting any power when the doors open anymore.
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: September 30, 2008 at 6:27 PM
also, are ther any ideas on how I could fix this dome relay issue in the first place. I checked both fuse boxes and all of the fuses were in order. I pulled the fuse that controls the domelight and my other door trigger lights went out.
The icon on the dash for the door being open, the door lights come on, and the key alert beeps when the door is opened(and the key is still in). is there some sort of relay or something that I may have blown?
Posted By: vdubill
Date Posted: October 01, 2008 at 4:23 PM
that did it. i cut the clock wire as well and rewired them all up and it is working now. thanks
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