Printer Friendly Forum Posts - viper 5900 in ’06 yukon denali

Hoping I can find some help from all you pros. I am working on this install and am having a hard time with a couple of connections. I dont want to sound to dumb by asking these but here I go.

1. I have (2) 12v constants in the ignition harness, red and RED / white. The remote start module needs (3) 12v high current constants. Both of the ones in the ignition harness are fed off 40 amp fuses. Since all three from the remote start module have 30 amp inline fuses, do I need to get the third 12v constant from somewhere else?

2. I have (2) accessory wires, orange and brown. The remote start module only has one accessory line. I have read that I need to make sure and hook up the brown accessory line for everything to work correctly, but I am not sure how. I guess I can use a relay but I need some directions in order to do it.

3. I am having a hard time finding the + parking light wire. Everything I read says that it is brown and in the drivers kick panel. Nothing I test reads correctly. I even went to the switch and tested the only brown wire that was there (it was a BROWN / white I think), and it tested 12v when I turned on the parking lights, but dropped down to almost nothing when I used the dash light dimmer. I dont know where else to look or how I am missing it.

I appreciate any help that you can give me. I usually dont have trouble with these types of things, but clearly this is an exception. Thanks in advance.

Adam

1) get all 3 from the 2 wires at the harness....

2) I'm betting your unit has a negative output for your second accesory. Look in the 'relay" section for instruction on how to wire it.

3) use the negative light wire... grey/black at the BCM brown plug, pin B2.

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Thanks KarTuneMan. I was wondering if I could just use the negative parking light wire, but everything I read said to use the positive brown wire. Also I searched for the relay wiring and think I am ready to try it tomorrow. I have a few more questions that I came up with as I was looking over what remains in the install.

4. Is there anything special I have to do to wire a ghost switch? Will any switch work?

5. Do I need to use the toggle switch neutral safety switch input? I do not know where to find the wire that it should be attached to or what color it is.

6. How should I hook up my drivers seat position buttons so they adjust to the proper driver based on the remote that is used to disarm the car?

Thanks again for the help.

Adam

Anybody out there? Sure would like to button this up today if I can. I guess that I can do the ghost switch and the drivers seat postitions later, but I still am not sure where to catch the neutral safety switch wire in the column.

the neutral switch shoul be wired one side to ground and the other to the wire from the alarm (assuming it's dei) or you can just tap the neutral wire to the ground wire. if you really won't use the neutral switch. to wire a ghost switch, u can use any wire that can provise a momentary 12 volt positive pulse, eg hazrd light, brakes, park lights etc etc

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

OK. Here is what's left.

Tap into the (-) horn output at the BCM.

Ground all modules, sirens, and neutral safety switch toggle.

Hook up 12v to brain, interface module, and window module.

Work my way through the neutral safety switch interface section of the install manual.

What I am going to leave for later.

Driver seat position with disarm.

Seat warmer interface.

Sunroof module.

Ghost switch.

I think I can get it finished after work tomorrow if I can get the answer to this question. Should I run a new 12v feed from the battery to power the brain, interface module, and window module? They are fused for 15a, 5a, and 20a respectfully. The possibilities I see are running a new wire from the battery; tying into one of the two 12v at the ignition, which already have the three 12v remote start wires attached to them; or tying into the red 12v wire that feeds the fuse box on the side of the dash inside the drivers door, which already has a 20a in-line fused wire feeding audio video accessories such as steering wheel remote interface, onstar / bose sound system interface, and pioneer in dash dvd player. I dont want to put too much on one line which is why I am wondering if I need a new line from the battery. What size fuse should I put in-line at the battery and what gauge wire?

Thanks for helping me through this install. I cant wait to try it all out. It is going to be sweet!

Oh yeah, and I forgot. I need to power the relay for the second accessory wire from this 12v source too.

Power the relay from the same source as the RS....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks Mike. I will get relay power from the ignition 12v. Any advise on where to get the power for the brain, interface module, and window module?

Got it installed and tested. Here is the problem I am having.

I cannot program the 457g module, therefore the doors do not lock or unlock when the alarm is armed or disarmed. I searched and found references to a problem with the 457g, however could not find the specific information as to what it is doing and what the fix is. When I try and program it, I do not get any led light at all on the unit.

Also the remote start will not get the car running. It does not work unless I put the key in the ignition and turn it to run and then remote start. Also, while it is under remote start, the headlights flash. Is this normal and why? Is the module faulty? Thanks for everyones help.

OK. I found out how to eliminate the headlights flashing during remote start, but cannot enter into the features menu because the alarm still does not see the doors since the 457g module is not working. Do I have a bad module or is there a known problem with it and I just need to apply a work around? Should I replace the module? If so, should I get the crimestopper GM-SL module instead? I have read that it will control a bunch more things than the 457g does, two of which are the heated seats and the drivers seat position memory.

Please can someone help me find the solution to my problems so I can wrap this install up this weekend.

Thanks.

Adam

I think I am narrowing down my problems. I am not sure if I have the 457gw hooked up properly. Currently I have the light green wire from the 457gw connected to the green wire @ pin 3 of the door lock harness from the 5900 brain. I have the blue wire from the 457 gw connected to the light blue wire @ pin 1 of the door lock harness from the 5900 brain. These may not be correct. Where should they be connected? Should they be connected to H2/4 and H2/6 from the brain?

your door lock wires are correct. Sometimes the 457g will "fall asleep" if there is no activity on the databus. make sure the purple wire is SOLDERED to the purple wie, pin2 at the obd2 connector. Try closing and then opening the door and cycling the ignition the "wake up" the databus and see if a ground appears on the door trigger output (green) wire. You could temporarily ground the green wire on the main harness of the viper for programming purposes. If the r/s does not engage... have you learned/connected tach? Does the security light on the dash flash when you try to r/s? If so the 457 has still not programmed. If not, tach start is default and since you have not entered programming it is stll in tach mode. hook up the tach PURPLE / white wire to any non common wire at any fuel injector. Start the car with the key and hold down the valet switch until the led lights solid. I would not recommend anything crimestopper. You must hook up the browm second accessory wire. Use the small orange wire on the r/s relay pack (4 pin plug) to trigger your relay.

Thanks for all of the answers and tips. I did not solder the purple wire at the odb connector but will do that tomorrow. Tach has been learned. The brown accessory wire is set up off a relay triggered by the pink wire instead of the orange wire. Is that alright?

The 457g has not been programmed because I cannot get the light to turn on at all. I hold down the button but nothing happens. Does this mean that the module is bad or can it not respond to programming if there is a bad connection. I have tested the 12v red wire and the ground and they seem fine to the bypass module so it is not a power problem.

As for the grounding out the green wire on the main harness, are you talking about the main harness to the brain or the main harness of the 457g?

The brown accessory needs to be powered as an accessory. The pink is ignition. It might set a code in the obd2 system. Im not sure. I would hook it up to the small orange accessory output of the relay pack. I meant to temporarily ground the green door trigger wire of the alarm for programming purposes. That will let you into programming, since the 456g is not providing a door trigger output because it is not programmed.

Well, I gave up on the 457g module and ordered a 1700g instead. It came in on Friday, so I hooked it up and now I have control of my door locks and can see the module working (I was able to program it as the directions stated). I still am having 2 issues though.

1. The remote start is still not working. It tries but will not start. I am wondering if it is because I am hooked up to the wrong keysense wire. I understand it is a lt. green wire at the ignition harness, but I dont know how to test to make sure I have the right one. Currently, while sitting in the car I can arm the system, wait a few minutes to make sure nothing is bypassed, and then put the key in the ignition without triggering the alarm. Should it go off if I am connected to the correct keysense wire?

2. I still do not have a good door trigger signal. I cannot enter the programming menus. I also can arm the alarm while I am sitting in the car, wait a minute or two to make sure all bypassed zones are rearmed, unlock the drivers door manually, and open the door without triggering the alarm. Can it be anything other than a bad connection from the 1700g and the brain? I think the connection is solid. I did solder it.

Once these are fixed and working correctly, I think I will be done for awhile. I still want to get the memory seat working with disarm, the rear defroster working with remote start, and the heated seats working with remote start, but I need to know the correct wires to connect to and can try to get that hooked up later.

Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.

Anybody out there? I dont want to nag, but I am stuck. I dont know what to do. Yes, I can ground the door trigger wire out so I can get into the programming menu, but that is not correct and will not make the system work as it is supposed to. I think I will have some time tomorrow to work on it, but just need to be pointed in the right direction.

Help me obi-wan kenobi. You're my only hope.

well the 457g is alright but it did have its flaws, i reccomend you using the 1700g, theres still plenty of them out there, or the xko1, the 457 had numerous problems on it, you sometimes have to add a relay to supply better negative, to the status input wire, if not it wont even remote start, but if you say the light is not coming up, well seems either you have a bad connection somewhere, or the module is faulty. another thing i did not like about the 457g is that i had two customers saying that after exchanging the battery on their trucks the alarm wouldnt work, so we had to re-program the darn modules, i brought this up at a D.E.I course and i guess i wasnt the only one. but i would really consider the 1700g, or the xko1 theyre a breeze to install and less headaches.

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installers do it best. we got the magic hands!

Thanks for the reply. I have already switched to the 1700g, but am still having problems with the door sense not working properly. And I dont know if the keysense is hooked up to the correct wire either. Remote start is not working. It tries, but does not start.

Anyone else with any advice?

sometimes the data on the 1700 will "fall asleep". Try opening the door and closing it a few times or using the factory keyless to wake up the data line. Then see if the door trigger works. The rear defrost wire is negative and you dont need a relay. It is a white wire at the gray(left) plug at the bcm. Program your second status (small blue/white) to latched 10 min and tie it into the white wire at the bcm. the indicator light wont light up on the dash but the defroster relay clicks. There is 3 or so white wires at that plug so test for the right one. Are you powering up the pink, white, brown, and orange wires at the main ignition harness? Also, there is no need to hook up the keysense to anything. the alarm should go off when the ignition is turned on, not when a key is inserted. What exactly happens when you try to remote start the truck? Is the small BLACK/ white neutral safety wire grounded?

i have two questions, did you hook up tach or are you using voltage? because you have to sitch it and program it to engine checking. second did you hook up the black with white wire ? if you did these two things, oh also how did you tap into the purple data wire? dont use "T" taps, i used to use them all the time but with these trucks ive found if i solder the wire on there it works perfect., another which platform are you using to program the 1700g?

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installers do it best. we got the magic hands!

oh another thing i forgot to mention, this helps,.....hook up the status wire of you module after you program the module. for some reason theres still a little bit of ground and this causes the module sqometimes not to program. after you do this. just feed the status wire ground, try and remote starting if it does hook the wire up, try it, if it doesnt remote start properly, you might want to use the pink negative wire coming out of the sattelite relays, and if not add a relay to the blue status wire so you can increase the amperage of the ground going into the module.

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installers do it best. we got the magic hands!