98 Hombre/S10 Passlock 2

Hi all,

after doing tsome reading on multiple forums regard gm's passlock 2 system i have decided to post here hoping one of you guys can help me with your expertise.

I just bought a 1998 isuzu hombre 2.2l

the original builder of the truck installed a momentary switch for the starter, and a toggle switch to turn the truck on (like run position on lock cylinder)

The problem i am having is as follows, the typical passlock 2 problem where the truck starts for a second or two then the fuel shuts off.. this is only a recent problem (battery died)

i have tried to cycle the key in the run position for 10 min. to relearn. and the security light does not change its status even after 11 min. (sometimes the light flashes) (sometimes its solid) its solid while doing the relearn procedure.

when i initially flip the switch to prime the truck etc (run position) and have the key to the run position sometimes the security light isnt on... it starts then dies. just like the passlock 2 fashion.

i check the column for the typical cut ellow wire, and it was indeed intact, but there is no "bypass module" to be seen other than a door popper box.

last night i cut the yellow wire to pull the resistance from key side of yellow wire to the BLACK/ orange wire

which at 3 different times read 1330 1374 and 1380 (1380 was with fully charged battery which is the number im going with to get the resistors. does this number sound accurate?

im just hoping tht witch this information one of you may be able to point me in the right direction to get this terd on the road, as frankly im tired of riding my motorcycle in the rain :)

if anyone has anymore questions feel free to ask and i'll answer as fully as i am able to "help you help me"

thanks again guys  

i dont see an edit button here.. but would like to clarify that the security light does not change status at all during relearn. in the multiple attempts at relearn it has always been solid.

BUT sometimes when i flip the switch the light blinks, sometimes its solid, and sometimes its off.

right.. thats what i figured..

but.. im resister stupid.. when purchasing the resisters.. do i get a 1000ohm and a 400 ohm to equal 1400ohm... or is it not that simple?

thanks ckeeler..

have you ever seen or heard of anyone bypassing the lock cylinder in this this way?...

i havent pull the dash off where the switch is yet.. to see if he wired resistors in, near the switch.. but i did trace the yellow wire all the way through the loom and didnt see a break anywhere.  i just cant seem to figure out how he got it to run in the first place with out the tumbler.....

ive seen it many times and done it many times myself as well. your probably going to find where he did it when you take off the steering column shroud. get the wires there on the top side of the lock tumbler. the old connection may have just come loose...?? who knows, might be a more simple fix than thought.....

yeah ive got that shroud off.. and everything looks normal...this is where i clipped to measure resistance. 

under the dash by the column hes tapped a few wires, looks like power source to door popper.. but no 22 gauge wires were cut just the 18 gauge stuff like the starter wire.

sounds like youre pretty familiar with this stuff. i appreciate all you feedback and help

also i need to clarify the switch on the dash is NOT the typical cut the yellow wire and put a switch in type switch...  when you flip this switch it turns the power on to the vehicle (like a race car)

ok tried the resistor trick last night... and no luck. tried the re-learn with resistors ... no luck

on top of that before doing the resistor trick i could get the truck to fire and turn over then die, afterwards.. the truck wouldnt turn over just crank.

so i uninstalled the resistors.. and then it would trn over again (just not stay running.)

i really think it has something to do with the flip switch to power the truck, and how the guy wired this thing.. its a rats nest under the column, and the guy just twisted wires together.. ive spent the past week (only about an hour a night) untwisting, and reconnecting via butt connectors and spades.

does anybody here have an actual wiring schem. for this thing so i can put it back to bone stock and start from scratch, rather than chasing down problems from the previous installer.

below are some of the pictures depicting what im talking about with the wiring mess.

also i found this... it says shock sensor,... doubt its part of my problem.. but hell it cant hurt to get the professionals opinion.

thanks, ive got that sheet...

if you look at the pic in the firast post of this page (page 2) you will see a blue and orange wire coming out from behind where the BCM is located.. i can find where that was supposed to be from.. or where it was cut from..

the reason i believe it to be passlock related is the vehicle started up perfectly and ran everytime, BEFORE the battery died..

which is why i traced the yellow data wire from the cylinder down the column.. and couldnt find where there had been a break in it.. (aside from the one i put in last last in an attempt to tie in resistors..

i have gotten the truck to start and stay running twice now ... once drove it around the neighborhood... and shut it off.. then no restart.

also the security light sometimes flashes sometimes not..

there is a set of relays wired in.. BUT these are going to the door popper.. when i powered them up i could hear the popper click in the door.

im not sure what info.. i will need to post up, so if you have a question, ask and ill answer as fully as possible..

im no stranger to working on cars/trucks... but electrical stuff isnt my forte'.... AT ALL. : )

NOTE *1 THE BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) IS LOCATED TO THE RIGHT OF THE GAS PEDAL BELOW THE RADIO.THE PLUGS ON THE BCM FACE TOWARDS THE DRIVERS SIDE.

NOTE *2 USE TAN (-) FOR THE DRIVERS DOOR LOCATED IN PIN B4 OF THE PURPLE PLUG.USE ORANGE (-) FOR THE PASSENGER DOOR LOCATED IN PIN B2 OF THE PURPLE PLUG,MUST DIODE ISOLATE THE WIRES.

NOTE *3 THE PCM (POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE) IS LOCATED ON THE PASSENGER FENDER.ON THE 2.2 LITER THE WIRE IS IN A BLACK 80 PIN PLUG PIN 10,AND ON THE 4.3 LITER THE WIRE IS IN A RED 32 PIN PLUG PIN 20.

NOTE *4 IMPORTANT!!!!! THIS WIRE MUST BE CONNECTED AS IGNITION #2 FOR REMOTE STARTING!!!!!

SORRY, i dont know why i forgot to include that

thank you.

i was hoping there would be something in that note that could pull my head outta my rear.. and give me a new avenue to go down..

this weekend i installed a completely new ignition starter switch which includes the entire wiring loom from key and down the column.

also i found that the tire has rubbed the engine compartment loom through.

i cut about a foot of loom out and spliced in nearly 2.5 feet to re-route the wires out out the well

still having the same problem where the fuel pump primes, trucks starts.. and then shuts down almost immediately,

its not stalling out.. cause if i give it gas on start up, when the engine fires, the rpms raise untill the trucks shuts itself down.. im leaning to the passlock system, but what has me baffled, is twice now i have gotten it to start and stay running (two different days) and probly 200 keys turns (battery stays on trickle charge)

i have tried the relearn procedure, fail

i have tried the resister trick, fail

i replaced the ignition start switch, fail

did relearn after the ignition start switch replaced, fail.

BUT im thinking the relearn procedure may not be working BECAUSE of the way this thing is wired to start., flip switch and push button. since turning the key yeilds no result other than a relay clicking uder the dash somewhere.

anybody? bueller? bueller?

All in all i think im going to be looking for a completely new engine bay wiring harness.. or a painless kit.