2000 crown vic door locks

I have a 00 crown vic with power locks. I believe this is a 4 wire system. I got it connected to my remote start and it works but it seems to draw alot of amps when I use it. With the car running I can use the button all day to lock and unlock. But using the remote starts keyless feature causes a draw that drops the voltage to less than 9 volts and almost kills the engine. The locks are wired via keyless as described in the acuator/reverse polarity set up. Only differance is that I removed the 87a to ground after finding out that with it grounded to door switch no longer worked. Can any one tell me what I am doing wrong here. I had it wired for 5 wire and the door switch worked but the keyless didn't. Any info would be helpful.

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If you do not think you can fix it then leave it alone!!

If the car had factory keyless entry the locks are positive trigger, if not then they are reverse polarity.

I'm not sure what diagram you've been using, but check out this one from the12volt.com.

Note several things: first, "Adding Actuators" and "Reverse Polarity" are different types of lock setups.
Second, 87a should not go to ground when doing reverse polarity. It should go towards the switch side of the lock or unlock wire which you've cut - 30 goes to the lock actuator side.

What it sounds like to me is that you've not cut the wires nor fused the power supply to your relays. You should count yourself lucky if you haven't melted wires/terminals, etc.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I have checked them again and they are rest at ground. So I have to cut the wires dont I? Also can I cut the wires going to the rear door lock motor and tie in there? I had it hooked up once and it didnt work but the lock switch worked.. Thanks again

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If you do not think you can fix it then leave it alone!!

I'm not sure why you would want to cut the wires going to the rear door lock motor??

If you're not familiar with rest at ground(5-wire) systems, the lock/unlock wires are grounded through one of the switches. Each switch also has a positive feed going to it, and there are master lock/unlock wires(the pink / YELLOW and pink/green on your car) which run between the master switch(usually, but not always, the driver's side) and the slave switch. On the other side of the slave switch the wires divide to go to each actuator separately.

When the switch is pressed, it simultaneously removes the lock or unlock wire from its normal ground path and sends 12 volts to it, sending power to the actuators.

When you had your relays connected, with the 87a removed from ground, the lock switch worked fine because the new wires hooked up didn't go to anything then(except for .8 seconds or so each time you pressed the remote, and presumably you didn't do that while using the switch).

However, when you pressed the keyless remote, the 12 volts went directly to the motor leads which were still resting at ground and with much less resistance than the actuators themselves, thereby causing the direct short which you saw as a dramatic voltage drop.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I have found my easiest point to cut and connect locks on the Vic is in the drivers door boot. It's still tight, but i cram the rubber boot into the door itself until i make the connections then slide the boot back into place...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the replies. I did find the issue. I tapped the wrong wires. The wires from the door switch are pink yellow and pink black. They start off pink yellow and pink green but change later in the door. I got the right wires just behind the parking brake disengage lever. Once I tapped them with the 2 relays I pre wired it was all set. And I am familer with the ford rest at ground. Just don't know why I tapped to the wrong one....Anyway, thanks for the help....

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If you do not think you can fix it then leave it alone!!