Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2008 Ford F-350, Omega RS-4LX Remote Start

I can't find this info. anywhere. I need to find the glow plug wire to tap into for my remote start. I have searched and searched, called Ford, posted on other forums. So far nothing. So does someone know the wire color and where I can find it? If it's easily accessible under the dash thats fine. If I can find it under the hood, just as good.

Thanks for the help.

Is your remote start unit not programmable for a few different time settings for diesel vehicles? The wire you need is in the cluster harness. I have no idea of it's color, but it controls the "Wait to Start" light on the dash.

i am an idiot wrote:

Is your remote start unit not programmable for a few different time settings for diesel vehicles? The wire you need is in the cluster harness. I have no idea of it's color, but it controls the "Wait to Start" light on the dash.

No the RS is not programmable. It has a sensing wire that senses when the glow plug light goes off. I know that it's under there somewhere it's just a matter of finding it. Going through that monstrosity of a harness would take me all day. I am sure there is someone here who has done this truck before that would be able to at the very least, narrow it down for me. Someone must have a wiring diagram that they could reference. Thanks.

This is why you need to keep all of your posts under one topic....I know you posted before, but now I can't remember the system you are using, since you didn't list it this time. What system? And if I remember right, the wait to start is now done through data now, which you can't tap into. I always use a system with a timed delay as mentioned earlier.

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boulderbronco, the wait to start wire on the new fords is now done through data and you can't, i repeat, cannot tie into it. you need a DEI 528T pulse timer.

And once you get past this step....here's a little tip... You don't need a tach wire at all.( as long as your system is capable of voltage sense ) your truck sees a starter input it will crank till it starts. Man I love the new Fords.

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My guys at Ford told me you don't need to wait to start on new Ford diesels anymore. The amount of time it takes from the ignition turning on till it cranks is enough. I have done a dozen or so this way and have had no problems at all.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

All you're looking for is a delay between ign and start. Most good R/S units can differentiate, ie selecting diesel on the programming will initiate this inc the time delay. Frankly most modern diesels DO start straight away so waiting for the glow-plug light to go out is irrevalent (where's the bloody spell check?)

In fact all the above posts are correct although they arrive by different methods ALSO from experience I would also trust in what they say. In fact on modern diesels I usually leave them on their petrol settings. My only doubt is the depth of winter, does the glow plug need more time?

Thanks for the help guys. The unit I am installing is an Omega RS-4LX. I have installed three of these before but never on a diesel. I don't want the truck to start before the glow plugs warm up. I don't care what you say, it's not good for it. In the dead of winter it can take 5-7 seconds for the glow plugs to warm up. I don't think there is that much delay in the ignition and start sequence. So I appreciate the idea of just hooking it up but I don't like it.

Ckeeler, So it sounds like I would need this DEI 528T timer your talking about. How does it work? I'm not doubting you on the data wire. But for the dash light there must be a wire that gives the light voltage and then turns the voltage off, turning the light off. That would not be a data wire. Thats all I need.

Mikvot, when I posted before I was asking a question about my keyless install and the lock unlock wires on my F350. Since this was a "different" install and a different issue I thought it better to post a new topic. I figured I would get more direct responses. Anyway like I mentioned above the RS unit is a RS-4LX. I love these things and their features. BUT. The diesel feature does not have any programmable wait to start option. All I have is a sensing wire to sense when the light goes off. I figured I would not need the tach wire as all the other installs I have done, all Fords, didn't need it as they worked off the voltage sensing system.

Thanks again guys.

Another thought, if you must have tach use a DEI inductive unit it goes between batt and alternator and is completely safe because it's non-intrusive. The point is especially here in Europe most instrument panels have about 6 wires to control everything via the CAN data system, the "lights" are surface mount LED's there is NO 12V+ or neg wait to start feed to the bulb.N.B. The only cars that actually won't start until glow plug light extinguishes are M/Benz. A diesel Focus will start immediately in all weathers.

More issues. I still have not figured out the glow plug thing but that can wait and should just be a simple connection when I figure out where to connect it. So I have it all installed with all wires connected in the "right places." I figured I would get it working and then work on the delay thing for the diesel as it's programmed from the factory for a regular gas vehicle. Anyway. I have a strange problem. First it will not work, at all. From what I can tell the problem lies somewhere in the brake connection. When I hit the brake the ignition powers on like it's about to start. It does not try to start but it fires all the "gadgets" up in my truck. I don't get it? Why? The RS-4LX senses the 12v+ when the brake is pressed so it will shut down the RS/engine. But what it's doing is somehow feeding through the RS to the ignition #1 output from the RS and going to my ignition and firing it up. How is that possible unless the unit itself is screwed up? With that said I can not get it to do it's "data learn procedure." I'm sure it's got something to do with the brake/ignition issue. I have been thinking and messing with it for the last hour and can't figure it out. Anyone? Thanks.

Here is some info on the RS-4LX

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/rs-4lx.pdf

I can now answer your earlier glow plug question having looked at the R/S diagrammes you kindly posted. Just set the lover to diesel and that solves that problem. Possibly stupid question but are you connected to the right side of the brake switch?

howie ll wrote:

I can now answer your earlier glow plug question having looked at the R/S diagrammes you kindly posted. Just set the lover to diesel and that solves that problem. Possibly stupid question but are you connected to the right side of the brake switch?

Well if I set it to diesel I'm not sure it will even start. It doesn't hurt to try it though. The manual says: "the gray wire can learn polarity; all it needs to detect is the change in the host wire's status when the glow plug goes out." So we shall see. But as I said I can't even get it started. I do have the brake pedal hooked up. There are only two wires. It is to the one that provides 12v+ when the pedal is pressed. So again in short, here is what is happening. When the brake is pressed it supplies 12v+ to the RS. But when that happens it also puts 12v+ to the ign. #1 and ign. #2 output wires of the RS. Those two wires are actually connected to the same ign. wire in the harness but that does not matter.

I also noticed another strange thing. There is a wire from my RS that "is a 12v+ output which will directly supply the host remote keyless entry or security system's ignition input circuit. This circuit has voltage whenever the ignition switch is on, but not when the RS-4LX energizes the ignition circuit." Testing this wire it always has 12v+. That seems wrong. If I am reading that right it should not have voltage unless the key is on or the RS is activated. But it has 12v+ all the time. If I am right in thinking that then it appears... damn my brain hurts. I'm still trying to figure this out.

Now I noticed that when my hood is up (pin is grounded) the same thing happens. The ignition output wires from the RS get 12v+ and fire up the ignition! What the hell? Is it possible that the RS was wired incorrectly and the hood pin wire and brake wire connections got reversed? Can't be.

So when the brake wire sees 12v+ it powers the ignition and when the hood pin grounds itself it activates the ignition. When either of those happens you can hear the relay switching in the RS. Why?

hey boulderbronco, dude, i have installed a bunch of these rs-4lx units and i like them, there pretty ok. those units will do what you are saying whenever there is a step yopu have missed or it didnt like, when you program them for the neutral safty. you know, how you have to turn on the ignition and put it in reverse and then neutral and then back to park and all that junk? well anyway ive had this same thing happen to me 6 outta 10 times with these darn things. you just have to keep trying to program it and it will eventually work. sometimes you have to do it in a different sequience or have the hood closed. try a few different things. as for the pulse timer, they work awesome! all it is, is a relay that can be triggered with a positive or negative pulse and have a positive or negative output which is completly adjustable with a little pot built right onto it. it can be triggered when it see a pulse, or when it sees voltage go away. way easy to use.

also you can make a constant to momentary relay setup and just adjust the time with a capacitior and hook up the output to your rs-4lx gray wire. use an output that is on when the unit is activated to trigger the relay.

try this man, for more time to let the glow plugs warm up, just use larger capacitors until you get it where you want it.

If using the above relay setup, you will only have a certain time window in which to start your truck. If the truck does not start on the first try, does the R/S unit turn the ignition off and then back on, or does it just try to start again. If the latter, it will think the wait to start light is back on.

ckeeler wrote:

hey boulderbronco, dude, i have installed a bunch of these rs-4lx units and i like them, there pretty ok. those units will do what you are saying whenever there is a step yopu have missed or it didnt like, when you program them for the neutral safty. you know, how you have to turn on the ignition and put it in reverse and then neutral and then back to park and all that junk? well anyway ive had this same thing happen to me 6 outta 10 times with these darn things. you just have to keep trying to program it and it will eventually work. sometimes you have to do it in a different sequience or have the hood closed. try a few different things. as for the pulse timer, they work awesome! all it is, is a relay that can be triggered with a positive or negative pulse and have a positive or negative output which is completly adjustable with a little pot built right onto it. it can be triggered when it see a pulse, or when it sees voltage go away. way easy to use.
also you can make a constant to momentary relay setup and just adjust the time with a capacitior and hook up the output to your rs-4lx gray wire. use an output that is on when the unit is activated to trigger the relay.

Ok. I have already tried about 3-4 times but I will try it a few more times. The hood is closed every time. But what I don't understand is why the RS would trigger the ign. outputs when the brake is press or if the hood is opened. It should do the exact opposite. It's like it's somehow reversed. Seems to me it will not program with these two situations happening. I'm going out right now to try again.

No dice. Tried three more times. I tried reseting it, I tried unpluging everything and plugging it all back in in the exact order they say. It's just not working properly. I checked my wifes 05 F150 to verify that I am not crazy. Hers works great. Nothing happens when you hit the brake on hers, which is what should happen on mine. I tested her ign. #1 and ign. #2 outputs when hitting the brake and got no reading. Which is obviously normal. But on mine I get 12v+ when I hit the brake or when my hood pin grounds. That just doesn't make sense. It's like the RS's internals are reversed or something. I think my next step may be to take the RS brain out of my wifes truck and put it in mine. If it works I know the RS I have is no good. What else could it be?

I'm probably clutching at straws here but apart from checking everything with the wiring diagramme in your other hand have you run a DMM over everything with special attention to your grounding? Sorry to teach you how to suck eggs if you've already done this.

howie ll wrote:

I'm probably clutching at straws here but apart from checking everything with the wiring diagramme in your other hand have you run a DMM over everything with special attention to your grounding? Sorry to teach you how to suck eggs if you've already done this.

Suck eggs? I don't think I have ever heard that one before. Well like you said I have checked all my connections. There are only a few. I have the red to the battery and black to a good ground. I have the blue and yellow both to ign. #1 as they both have identical outputs and they both need to be connected and my truck has no ign. #2. The white I actually do not have connected yet but it's just a flashing light output. Then the green I have to my starter wire. On the other harness I have violet and green to the brake and hood pin respectively. Orange I am not using, Pink is to the grey wire from my keyless, Grey is not yet connected to my glow light but that does not matter for the testing, Blue, Brown, White, Blue, Yellow are not used. The only wires I need to actually get it to work are five of the six on the main harness and the brake, hood and trigger wires on the aux. harness.

But again the problem is the brake and hood pin activating the blue and yellow ign. outputs. So if I have just the brake and hood pin hooked up from the aux. harness, and the 12v+, ground ign. #1 and ign. #2 hooked up from the main harness, I still have the problem of the ign. wires being activated. I just don't get it.

If you have the same exact module in your wife's truck, verify that the wires on the harness are in the same locations on both units. They have been known to put some wires in the wrong location.

i am an idiot wrote:

If you have the same exact module in your wife's truck, verify that the wires on the harness are in the same locations on both units. They have been known to put some wires in the wrong location.

You mean the wrong location in the harness? The labels are the same on both harnesses and the wires are in the right places. Seems like the RS board could be wiRED / soldered wrong. Seems like maybe my activation wire from the keyless should maybe be switched with the hood pin wire. Because again when the hood pin grounds it activates the ign. outputs. Wait. Man I'm getting confused thinking about all this. Basically I think the RS brain is wired incorrectly. The 12v+ from the brake pedal should deactivate the ign. not activate it. Same with the ground from the hood pin. It should deactivate the ign. not activate it.

Are there wires coming out of the brain that go to a plug? Most of the units i have seen have a socket soldered directly to the board of the unit. If the harness you are talking about plugs into another harness coming out of the brain, you need to check those wires too. If the harness plugs into a socket that is mounted to the circuit board, the only way they could get that wrong is if there was a revision that they forgot to do on your module.

If you are going to remove a module and try it in the other vehicel, I think it would be safer to try your module in her vehicle. We do not know if there is something wired wrong in your vehicle that could have taken your unit out. I and I am sure you would not like to try hers in yours and take it out too. If your unit is damaged it will act in hers as it does in yours.

This is exatly what I have.

https://www.autotechs.com/images/item402_1.jpg

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/rs-4lx.pdf

The main harness has spade terminals that are labeled on the RS unit and they just plug in. The aux. harness is exatly as you see here in the pic and on the diagram and it just plugs in as a whole unit. I find it real hard to believe the internals of the RS are wrong or reversed. But I guess I am out of options. Time to take out my wifes and try it in mine.

i am an idiot wrote:

If you are going to remove a module and try it in the other vehicle, I think it would be safer to try your module in her vehicle. We do not know if there is something wired wrong in your vehicle that could have taken your unit out. I and I am sure you would not like to try hers in yours and take it out too. If your unit is damaged it will act in hers as it does in yours.

i am an idiot wrote:

i am an idiot wrote:

If you are going to remove a module and try it in the other vehicle, I think it would be safer to try your module in her vehicle. We do not know if there is something wired wrong in your vehicle that could have taken your unit out. I and I am sure you would not like to try hers in yours and take it out too. If your unit is damaged it will act in hers as it does in yours.

Good point. I somehow missed that when you said it earlier. I will do that. I can't do it right now though. I will get to it later today.

Now I am more confused. I unplugged her unit, and plugged mine into her truck. Same thing. When I hit the brake on her truck it activated the ignition. So I have a bad unit right? Well hold on. I plugged her unit back in and it would not work. again. So I tried running the "DataLearn" procedure and it would not program. So I figured I would just reset the whole unit and re-program it with the "DataLearn" procedure. Got it reset and went to hit the brake to run the "DataLearn" and it kicked on the ign. just like it's been doing in mine. What the hell? So now hers is doing the exact same thing mine is. I don't get it. I am really not sure what that tells me. Both units can't be bad as my wifes worked fine before this. Somehow reseting it is making it do this maybe? I am just so confused. So now hers will not work at all and I am in the same cituation with both units. What is going on? I know it's frowned upon but I am about to post a new topic on this to see if I can get some more help/responses.

Before you try a new topic, consider this. You've installed a unit in your vehicle and it doesn't work. You've taken a working unit from another vehicle that's either the same or similar. You've installed it in your vehicle and it like the original doesn't work. You've now transferred it back and it now doesn't work in the original vehicle. Actually you should have installed yours in her's first to confirm unit's status but do I have to spell out what you've discovered.... OK here goes. You've made an error that appears to have caused the ignition relay to work back to front. Now you've "cooked" both units take a breather and check your wiring. We can assume the new unit wasn't faulty to start with, something you did made it that way because it's done the same to the unit in your wife's vehicle.

Hold on. You misread. I said, "I unplugged her unit, and plugged mine into her truck." So I didn't install hers in my truck. Like you said that would not have been smart. So I did exactly what you suggested. But again when I plugged her unit back in her truck it did not work. But when I hit the brake pedal nothing happened. It wasn't until I reset her unit that it started doing what mine does with the brake pedal. So my thinking is that it has something to do with resetting the unit. Now everytime you hit her brake it activates the ign. just like mine. Get it?

You need to check for blown fuses in her vehicle. Fuses in the vehicle and supplying the remote start unit. I find it hard to believe that your unit could have messed up anything other than blowing a fuse while trying it in her vehicle.

i am an idiot wrote:

You need to check for blown fuses in her vehicle. Fuses in the vehicle and supplying the remote start unit. I find it hard to believe that your unit could have messed up anything other than blowing a fuse while trying it in her vehicle.

I agree it's very weird. But I have tested all the inputs to the RS to be sure they are doing what they are suposed to. They are. The only two wires giving me trouble are the two safety feature wires. Meaning the brake pedal and the hood pin. I don't really see how a fuse could be the culprit if all the wires are testing as they should. But I went out and checked all the fuses in her truck, they are good. I'm at a loss.

OK sorry I'm at a loss to think of anything to explain this without knowing the product. To reiterate, have you checked everything with the DMM against a wiring diagramme?

howie ll wrote:

OK sorry I'm at a loss to think of anything to explain this without knowing the product. To reiterate, have you checked everything with the DMM against a wiring diagramme?

Yup. I forgot to affirm that when you asked before. The brake shows 12v+ when it's hit and the hood pin shows ground when the hood is open but not when it's closed. I'm at a loss too. I am going to give Omega a call in the morning. See what they can tell me.

dude, dude, dude.........howie ll, i am an idiot, why do you keep confusing this poor guy even more? boulderbronco, i told you..... those damn omega RS-4LX units do this all the dang time. i've installed several hundred with OEM keyless systems, which im sure is what your trying to do right boulderbronco?? they will 6 out of 10 times pull this s&!t and its not the unit! it not the install! its the order it is programed for the neutral safety. if its not done in the order it wants it to be done it takes the 12v input and turns on the ignition when you press the brake, or ground the hood pin wire to let you know that ist not programed. i've had them do this so many times and me getting sick of it that i quit installing them. i actually didnt know they even made it anymore. if you call omega and give them your exact vehicle, they will walk you through the exact programming procedure and you'll be in business.

Quite right you're the one with the experience, the only ones I came across here were Lightenings and we were fitting Sat Navs.

ckeeler wrote:

dude, dude, dude.........howie ll, i am an idiot, why do you keep confusing this poor guy even more? boulderbronco, i told you..... those damn omega RS-4LX units do this all the dang time. i've installed several hundred with OEM keyless systems, which im sure is what your trying to do right boulderbronco?? they will 6 out of 10 times pull this s&!t and its not the unit! it not the install! its the order it is programed for the neutral safety. if its not done in the order it wants it to be done it takes the 12v input and turns on the ignition when you press the brake, or ground the hood pin wire to let you know that ist not programed. i've had them do this so many times and me getting sick of it that i quit installing them. i actually didnt know they even made it anymore. if you call omega and give them your exact vehicle, they will walk you through the exact programming procedure and you'll be in business.

That make complete sense. I tried to reprogram like you said before but it just would not work. I figured it had something to do with that I just couldn't figure it out. That internal switch confuses me too. Knowhere does it say what it is for or what it does but I know it has something to do with the neutral saftety system. Thanks again CK. I will be calling Omega shortly.

Well you were right CK. There is a certain routine that needs to be followed to make the "DataLearn" procedure work. The guy said it's just a weird quirk on these things and it's not in the manual. They just know it from trial and error. You are suposed to put your foot on the brake, turn the key to the "on" position (not start), shift the gear shifter from "P" through the gears and then back to "P", turn the key off, take my foot off the brake, and toggle the switch off then on. Well obviously that does not work in my situation. I had to put my foot on the brake, turn the key on and START it, turn the key off, take my foot off the brake, and toggle the switch off then on. It took the programming and started right up. Weird. Anyway hope this can help someone in the future with the RS-4LX. They really are great units once they are installed. Thanks everyone for the help. Now I just need to figure out the diesel delay.

yes its true. i've installed oodles and oodles of these and i just got sick of them doing that to me. but its true also, once there in and working they are nice little units. ive use the 528t with these for the diesel delay alot. also the relay diagram i posted works with these units too. good luck man.

mikvot wrote:

And once you get past this step....here's a little tip... You don't need a tach wire at all.( as long as your system is capable of voltage sense ) your truck sees a starter input it will crank till it starts. Man I love the new Fords.

Man. I thought I was good. Not so. Now it will not stay running. The techies think it's because it's not sensing the required change in voltage from the battery. Ok. So they tell me to use the tach mode. Well I tried that but I dont' think there is a good tach wire to tap into. I have tested all the wires that the diagrams show and am not finding what I am suposed to find. The tech at Omega said it was a blue/white wire with a pigtail on the end. There are a bunch of these under the dash for accessories and other stuff. But when I test it with my DMM it does not show any change in voltage when I hit the gas. Man I am tired of trying to figure this out. So does anyone have any suggestions? mikvot did you install an RS on an 08 recently? It worked?

Go back to my earlier post and read what I said about inductiive pickups from DEI especially for diesel vehicles.

ckeeler wrote:

dude, dude, dude.........howie ll, i am an idiot, why do you keep confusing this poor guy even more? boulderbronco, i told you..... those damn omega RS-4LX units do this all the dang time. i've installed several hundred with OEM keyless systems, which im sure is what your trying to do right boulderbronco?? they will 6 out of 10 times pull this s&!t and its not the unit! it not the install! its the order it is programed for the neutral safety. if its not done in the order it wants it to be done it takes the 12v input and turns on the ignition when you press the brake, or ground the hood pin wire to let you know that ist not programed. i've had them do this so many times and me getting sick of it that i quit installing them. i actually didnt know they even made it anymore. if you call omega and give them your exact vehicle, they will walk you through the exact programming procedure and you'll be in business.

Based off of this ONE POST ALONE, I would pull that P.O.S. and toss it in a swift moving river, or a trash compactor....

Far more trouble than it's worth...... As you have found.

You then say, "I paid for this" then I say, "whats your time worth?"

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howie ll wrote:

Another thought, if you must have tach use a DEI inductive unit it goes between batt and alternator and is completely safe because it's non-intrusive. The point is especially here in Europe most instrument panels have about 6 wires to control everything via the CAN data system, the "lights" are surface mount LED's there is NO 12V+ or neg wait to start feed to the bulb.N.B. The only cars that actually won't start until glow plug light extinguishes are M/Benz. A diesel Focus will start immediately in all weathers.

Ok. I found a DEI528T for my diesel delay issue. I have it in my cart at Crutchfield. But I have been Googling "DEI inductive unit" and other forms of that and can't find anything. I can't even find a DEI website with their products. Do you have a part number or a website or is it maybe called something else? The other three RS-4LX units I have done have all worked fine off the voltage sensing but this one isn't. I assume the DEI product you are referring to is for me to get a tach signal so I can run the RS in tach mode instead of voltage sensing mode. Right?

Clifford part number was 60-521, if you ring DEI customer service and ask them they will give you the current part number. The answer to your last word "right?" is YES.

howie ll wrote:

Clifford part number was 60-521, if you ring DEI customer service and ask them they will give you the current part number. The answer to your last word "right?" is YES.

Thanks. But searching DEI I don't come up with crap. I searched the part number you gave me a found only a few things on it. I can't find anywhere to buy it.

https://documents.audiovox.com/701218.pdf

moonliter wrote:

https://documents.audiovox.com/701218.pdf

Thats the one I am trying. But it does not show the voltage change required for the tach system. The voltage does not change with the RPM.

Have you measured it as AC or DC

howie ll wrote:

Have you measured it as AC or DC

Both. Just went out again to verify and no change. I have also checked about a dozen other wires including the blue/white that Omega said was the tach wire.

What is the reading in ac ?

moonliter wrote:

What is the reading in ac ?

This is really starting to wiz me off. I decided to hook it up to that wire anyway and try to program it for tach sensing. BTW it reads a constant 14.1-14.3 V AC when running at any RPM. So it worked, kind of. It programmed just the way the manual said it should and I verified it with the manual. But now it won't even kick on the starter. The security light starts blinking. I am so tired of this. I was told that my 08 did not have the PATS system because it is a work (fleet) truck. So now what? Do I have that PATS system and thats why it's kicking on that light? It didn't do that before. Man this is getting old. You guys rock by the way. Thanks for all the help.

hmmmm........yea, f350's thru 550's do not have pats or any type of anti-theft that i'm aware of.

ckeeler wrote:

hmmmm........yea, f350's thru 550's do not have pats or any type of anti-theft that i'm aware of.

Yup. Just talked to Ford. They looked up the VIN and verified it does not have it. So why is this light blinking on me? Vehicles are so difficult these days it makes me crazy.

"I decided to hook it up to that wire anyway and try to program it for tach sensing. BTW it reads a constant 14.1-14.3 V AC when running at any RPM."

does everything still work normal with the key at this point? how did you tie into that wire? did you cut it?

ckeeler wrote:

"I decided to hook it up to that wire anyway and try to program it for tach sensing. BTW it reads a constant 14.1-14.3 V AC when running at any RPM."
does everything still work normal with the key at this point? how did you tie into that wire? did you cut it?

No. It's just a stub for accessories. It's a nice feature of these F350's. Weird thing is now it's working. Almolst perfect. But now I have yet another issue. The "Climasense" feature does not work right. It activates when I hit the brake pedal twice after turning the truck off. It senses voltage so if the voltage drops below 11V it will automatically start the truck. Problem is that it starts it right away. That coupled with the fact that the "Smart Tach" voltage sensing didn't work for the basic operation of the unit, tells me that the voltage sensing circuit is no good in the unit. Another thing that does not work is the "Pit-Stop" feature. It is so you can take the key out of the ignition but keep the truck running. It is suposed to work by toggling the override switch off-on off-on and then turning the truck "off" and taking the key out. Well it doesn't work. The truck just shuts off. I guess I am making another call to Omega tomorrow. This is the worst experience I have had with these RS-4LX units. Otherwise I like em'.

Thanks again for everyones help and advice. I am waiting on the DEI 528T for the diesel delay. The only thing I still need to figure out is why the "Clima Sense" feature does not work. I spent the last two days on the phone with Omega and they were at a loss. The only thing we have come up with is that maybe, somehow, both units got damaged. They suggested I get another RS-4LX and give it a shot. I'm thinking that will not do it. But then I will leave it to Omega to figure out. I'll post whenever I get new info. Maybe this will help someone else someday.

I am putting a 528t in my 08 F350 for the diesel delay. I am "bench" testing it in the truck before I make hard connections. I have red to +12v, Black to ground, orange not used, yellow to ground, BLACK/ white to trigger input to the RS, brown to DMM for testing. I am not getting an obvious change in voltage. The relay in the 528T clicked softly after about 35-40 seconds. Should I cut the blue loop wire? Am I reading the DMM wrong? Please help me out.

I said "obvious change in voltage." I am getting virtually no change when the relay kicks over. It hovers right at -.001 to .001.

Have you checked that brown wire for continuity to ground rather than voltage while running through that cycle? As long as your DMM has a continuity testing function, just connect one probe to the ground wire and one to the brown ouput wire.

I say that because the way the instructions describe it, the relay inside the unit simply opens the circuit on the brown wire. Thus, you'll read ~0 volts when open and about the same with it closed to ground.

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Life moves pretty fast; if you don't stop and look around once in a while; you could miss it.

When activated, the brown is going to have a ground on it.

Doh! Thats it. Thanks. Works great.

I am installing an RS-4LX Remote Start. Had it all good to go last night before I went to bed. Worked great. All I needed to do this moring was hook up the accessory wire and the 528T for the diesel delay, which I also had working fine yesterday but disconnected it because I was "bench" testing it before I actually installed it. Anyway it was starting with both the key and the RS last night. This morning the first thing I did was tap into the accesory wire with the feed from the RS. Did that and tried remote starting and it would not start. It fired up the ignition but it wouldn't start it. Tried it by key and it still wouldn't start. Uh oh. What did I do? Now I have the RS completly disconnected as well as my keyless module for good measure and the truck still will not start! I need help. The ignition turns on as usual as does the radio and HVAC but it will not crank. I have checked my fuses and they are good. Starter relay? Please help. I have to at least get it to turn on via the key.

Thanks

Chris

when you say "it wont start", does that mean the starter wont even crank over, or, the engine wont stay running?

ckeeler wrote:

when you say "it wont start", does that mean the starter wont even crank over, or, the engine wont stay running?

Won't crank. Not even a click like you would get with a bad solenoid or low voltage. I get 12v+ in the starter wire while starting, and I can here the relay in the passenger compartment fuse panel, but after that I don't know where the starter wire goes. I have checked the fuses in the engine compartment. I have also replaced the starter relay in the passenger compartment with what I thought was a good relay but still nothing. I have to get this running.

go straight to the starter solonoid in the engine compartment. it looks just like the glow plug relay on the outside but will be on the firewall somewhere from the middle to the passenger side, or on the passenger side inner fender. jump the 2 large terminals with a heavy fuse holder and 30 amp fuse. if it starts, check that you are getting the 12v from inside in the ignition harness to actvate the solonoid. if you are......bad solonoid.

ckeeler wrote:

go straight to the starter solonoid in the engine compartment. it looks just like the glow plug relay on the outside but will be on the firewall somewhere from the middle to the passenger side, or on the passenger side inner fender. jump the 2 large terminals with a heavy fuse holder and 30 amp fuse. if it starts, check that you are getting the 12v from inside in the ignition harness to actvate the solonoid. if you are......bad solonoid.

Your dreaming. This is an 08 6.4L diesel remember. The engine compartment is packed tighter than anything. I can't even barely see the fire wall nevermind find the solenoid. I'll keep looking.

so what will you do when you have to change the solonoid because its bad? just say "nevermind"?

ckeeler wrote:

so what will you do when you have to change the solonoid because its bad? just say "nevermind"?

Your absolutly right. But I don't want to go taking stuff apart until I can determine where it is. I just took off the air filter housing and still don't see it. Does it not look like a conventional solenoid?

Damn this is a weird truck. I looked underneath at the starter to check for wire color. I found it up near the battery so I figured I would test it there when starting. So I clamped the hood pin closed so I could remote start the truck and test the wire with my DMM (I'm by myself). Well I go and hit the RS and it starts right up. I don't get this at all. I have been trying to figure this out for the last four hours and all of a sudden it decides to start? I didn't do a thing to it. Weird. Well all I have left now is to wire the 528T back up and it should, should, SHOULD be good. Thanks for the help once again. I'll post in a bit when it's finally up and running normally.

looks like this only black

posted_image

Thats what I figured. I still don't see it though. I followed the wire up from the starter and didn't see it. I then looked allround up top and couldn't see it. It must be sandwiched between the passenger battery, intake tubes and all the other crap. Or maybe it's under the battery. Either way it appears I don't need to find it now.

Well. Still problems. As much as I like these units they are a real PITA to get working right. This is the most trouble I have ever had with one of these. It's turning the truck off after 15 seconds every time. Sometimes I get a flashing LED that tells me it's because the toggle switch (valet) was turned off. Well it wasn't. Other times it does not tell me anything. Thoughts? Back on the phone with Omega tomorrow I guess. At least their customer support is decent.

ive never had as many problems with an RS-4LX as you are having right now. i hate to hear it. at this point i would toss and install something else. afterall......you know now that none of your problems are due to the install, just a piece of junk.

It's working 100% now. Again for no reason. But at least it's working. I actually blame it on the truck more than I do the RS. These 08 are very strange and have a lot of weird ignition systems and things like that. This RS-4LX I am using, although new, is an older unit not designed for these new computer systems we find in today vehicles. I think that has alot to do with it. FYI I talked with a tech at Omega a few months ago and he said they were planning on coming out with a new kick ass RS that is going to be modeled after the RS-4LX. They have their MARS stuff but that never really looked that great to me. The features of the RS-4LX is what I liked. Anyway we'll see if this thing continues to work properly. Thanks again for everyones help, ck.

Chris

Has anyone got a working RS-4LX?
I accidentally blew a transistor on my one due a stupid error on my part. I cant make out the number on the transistor. Can anybody help me?

The transistor is an SMD, and is located in-between the big white connector block and the MIC58418 chip. SMD Transistor starts off with the letter "R", thats all I can see.
Please help me find the full number on the transistor.
Cheers people.

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GeniuSys

Are there any other surface mount transistors on the board that have the R in the beginning of the number__?__ What caused the transistor to blow__?__ What feature of the alarm is affected by the blown transistor__?__

on the RS-4LX the ignition outputs are transistorized.

i am an idiot wrote:

Are there any other surface mount transistors on the board that have the R in the beginning of the number__?__ What caused the transistor to blow__?__ What feature of the alarm is affected by the blown transistor__?__

No other SMD transistors that start with R. This is the only one. Transistor blew because i connected negative supply to the terminal, by mistake (i picked up wrong wire). Transistor feature is for "Yellow Wire (+) - Alarm Ignition".

So - without the transistor number, I cant find a replacement, even if I cant find an SMD, at least I can find a standard size with the same characteristics.

Why so many questions ? All I need to know is the numbmer written on the SMD Transistor. Its so easy to locate.

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GeniuSys

So many questions! Question 1 was obvious, manufacturers do not like having to stock 1000 parts for their products. They attempt to use a part that they can use in several places, so they can cut down on parts ordering. Question 2 and 3 kind of went together to narrow down whether we needed a PNP or an NPN transistor. General reason for all the questions is, I am trying to help you figure out what kind of transistor you need to purchase to get your alarm working again. We can wait a day to see if anybody is going to have an alarm that they are willing to remove and disassemble to get you the number. There were going to be some more questions before we can figure this out. Do you know what case style the transistor is? Page 13 has 3 possibilities Or it could be a larger transistor. Chances are it is an NPN transistor. Radio Shack does sell several that will work in this application. Try Here You try one of those and I will attempt to repair the Crystal Ball that Howie sent me, and if the alarm is still giving you trouble, I can Gaze into the ball and get you a part number and possible vendor.

I'll make it a bit easier for u guys. I've included a pic.
It's a SOT-23
I have no idea if its NPN or PNP. Most likely an NPN - I cross-referenced it with something I found on the net. Here's the link... https://parts.digikey.co.uk/1/1/749410-transistor-npn-12v-100ma-sot-23-bsv52-t-r.html
https://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1014080-transistor-rf-npn-12v-sot-23-bf-771-e6327.html
Might help you guys to distinguish what part it is.

I live in UK, and we don;t have Radio Shack here anymore. They vanished over 20 years ago. But, we have www.maplin.co.uk they do loads of electronics stuff. i need the part to be small as possible so it can be soldered onto the existing solder points on the board.

posted_image

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GeniuSys

Here is another link to what the markings on SMD's mean.

https://www.tkb-4u.com/code/smdcode/smdcodeR.php

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GeniuSys

Could the SMD Transistor marking possibly be "R1A"?
I have checked with NPN with Maplin Electronics and cross referenced it with SMD Codes (link in previous post). If I'm right, the blown SMD Transistor "R1A" is a 2N3904. Correcet me if I'm wrong. But I hope I'm right, cuz I can buy the part tomorrow for pennies (I'm from UK, so we use pound/quid and pence/pennies).

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GeniuSys

are there any other transistors with similar marking

i usually would take a swab and wipe it with flux cleaner on the end

with a good magnifing glass you can probably read the numbers

Oh for god sakes guys. I know electronics to some extent, OK. But please don't try to patronise me by asking to do things as clean it with cotton swab - which I have already tried. Transistor is clean and has a hole in the middle. The only character visible through a magnifying glass is the letter "R".

As I mentioned be in the post, this is the ONLY transistor with this marking

If nobody has a good enough answer, then I don't want to hear about it because its wasting my time.

Can't ONE person just take the cover off his RS-4LX and get the number for me? There's got to be someone who has one at hand (in a shop).

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GeniuSys