2002 cavalier, remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=108304
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 11:13 AM

Topic: 2002 cavalier, remote start

Posted By: delongboy
Subject: 2002 cavalier, remote start
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 12:39 PM

I just installed the trc xr-22 remote start on my cavalier. here it is https://trc12volt.com/XR22c.pdf

I have everything working except the trunk and doors lock and unlock. I made sure I was connected to the correct wires with a multimeter.

While testing it seems that the unit is not sending any voltage on the door lock and unlock. It does make a clicking noise and the parking lights flash.

I think it may be one of 2 problems. First the wiring for the unit shows these connections as - and the wiring for my car shows them as +

second the unit has instructions for learning and I think it could be set to use the cars keyless entry and I can't find any way to switch.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, if anyone knows a way where I can use my factory alarm system to use the neg input on the remote starter? Like using the trunk button instead?

Replies:

Posted By: caraudio904
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 1:30 PM

02 Cav

Lock: Light BLue

Unlock: White

5wire Alternating: the easiest side is to do it from the passenger side at the switch since its the master control on that side

If you have previous keyless entry like with a remote an all you can just tap into those wires in the pass kick panel an wire in direct

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Southern Stylez
Jacksonville, FL 32218

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 1:42 PM

I've got the wires. I connected at the BCM. However, the wires there are + and the starter unit shows it as -

is there a way to reverse the polarity?

Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 1:53 PM

Yes, with relays. Look in the relay section of this site. All kinds of useful diagrams.

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Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 1:54 PM

check here first

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 2:10 PM

OK, great!! Thanks guys. I assume those relays in the diagram are pretty standard and I can get them at radio shack?

Also, any ideas one way or the other for using my factory alarm fob trunk button to activate the remote starter?

Posted By: noobie4life
Date Posted: October 23, 2008 at 8:45 PM

Why would you still want to use your factory remote anyways? There is no use for it. I have the exact same car as you do, but a different aftermarket alarm. You cant use your aftermarket alarm to disarm the factory alarm. You simply disarm the factory alarm and let it go at that. The new alarm will do everything the factory one did. If the aftermarket one has atleast 1 free auxiliary channel, you use that for the trunk release. The polarity for the trunk release is (+) and on my alarm, the output is (-) so I needed to use a relay to reverse the polarity. I found the trunk release wire by removing the driver side door floor trim piece. There is a ton of wires that are taped up (mine has orange tape). The wire color is black with white stripes eventhough there are several of those same colored wires, so you will need to test each one.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 24, 2008 at 8:57 AM

Ok, So here is my new issue.. Not sure if I should start a new post or not. anyways. when I remote start my car in the am to go to work it works fine. However the last 2 days I have tried to start it at work before I go home, it runs for maybe 2 secs and turns off. Its almost like the passlock bypasser is not working. I have used the GM 555L bypass module. The only think I can think of is because I start it with the remote in the morning and then try to start it in the afternoon with the remote again without starting with the key in between. Does this make any sense? It always starts fine the next morning after I start it with the Key to go home.

Posted By: caraudio904
Date Posted: October 24, 2008 at 9:33 AM

sounds like you did not connect tach, the very first remote start i ever did was that way. i would start it, it would try but would cut off, then try again an it would start. it is effected by hot/cold weather. thats why its always good to use tach but you can reprogram the timer an it should take care of that issue

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Southern Stylez
Jacksonville, FL 32218

Posted By: noobie4life
Date Posted: October 24, 2008 at 9:44 AM

If the bypass module was not working, the car would not be remote started no matter when you tried it. Also after the fail remote start, the car would enter anti-tamp mode and cant be started with the key either. I also dont think it is a tach problem (lack of having it connected). The only thing the tack wire does (which is very important) is disengage the remote start once the vehicle is started.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 5:48 PM

Ok, so I used the relays and got everything working.. however now the drivers door won't lock with the remote. It unlocks but won't lock with either remote or the button on the doors. It will only work manualy. I was looking for a fuse for that door but can't seem to find one. Any ideas?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 8:22 AM

I installed a remote start with keyless entry on my car. I had everything working fine and now the drivers door won't lock. All other doors lock fine. It doesn't even work with the button on the door. You have to manually lock it. It was working when I first hooked it up. I looked for a fuse for just that door but can't find any. Any ideas?

Another question. Right now I have the unlock only triggering the drivers door. I found the wire for the rest of the doors, but if I connect to both do I need to diode isolate them? Reading some posts it seems like I should but the sticky post about it seems to only apply to triggers, do I need to do it for just unlocking?

Thanks

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 11:38 AM

did the car have a factory keyless entry? it sounds like you have tied into the lock motor wires and not the lock/unlock trigger wires. one wire should unlock ALL the doors, not just the driver side.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 11:58 AM

It does have a factory alarm. I tied into the unlock wire from the bcm. I had it hooked to both but I was worried about the diode. I think I will hook it back up.

What really bothers me is that the drivers door won't lock. There is a relay in the fuse box that is labled drl. could that be drivers door lock?

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 12:19 PM

DRL is Daytime Running Lamps, so it wont be that. so that door unlocks but wont lock? and the rest of the doors do nothing, correct? what wires did you tie into, and what setup did you use? positive trigger? 5 wire?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 12:53 PM

according to this

I tied into the lt blue to lock and the white to unlock. Everything unlocks now. All doors except the drivers door lock. But the door lock button on the door won't even lock the drivers door now. It was working before. I'm thinking I shorted something out but not sure where to look. Could the lock actuator have gone partly bad and only work in one direction?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 12:58 PM

OK, here is something else I just noticed. When using the factory remote, when you would hit lock 2 times the horn would chirp on the second time. Now all other doors lock except the drivers and the horn never chirps. Could it be something related to the factory alarm system? Not seeing a fuse clearly labeled for that either. Checked a couple but they didn't appear blown.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 2:19 PM

now that all the other stuff is straightend out, it sounds like you have a bad actuator in the driver door.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 2:58 PM

so a bad actuator can actually work in only one direction?

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 27, 2008 at 3:26 PM

ive seen them do it all the time on mid 80's fords where they only want to go down but not up. its usually only one door too. take the door panel off and test the wires going to the door lock motor. if the lock wire shows 12v when you lock and the unlock shows 12v when you unlock, but it only works in 1 direction regardless, it is a bad motor.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 29, 2008 at 1:40 PM

Ok, I am getting power to the actuator on lock and unlock, so it's clearly dead. As far as changing the actuator, where is the best place to get them, I checked some parts stores and they are $50-60 which seems really high. Is a junk yard a good place for these? Also, as far as changing it, it appears I have to remove the whole latch mechanism to get to it, is this correct?

Thanks again for everybody's help.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 29, 2008 at 2:26 PM

Yea, that whole thing has to come out. if you go that route just get a new one. DORMAN or BALKAMP from the parts stores. another route you can go is to just disconnect the wires from the factory one, install a regular old aftermarket door lock actuator and solder and heat shrink the wires that went to the old one to the new one. just leave the factory one in the door. ive done that more times than i can remember.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 29, 2008 at 2:53 PM

That sounds like a good route. I have seen aftermarket ones for $5-10. I assume you are talking about mounting it somewhere easier to get to? Is there any special kind I should be looking for, and do they come with instructions?

Thanks again for your help ckeeler. You have been most helpfull.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 29, 2008 at 3:00 PM

i like SPAL, but any brand will work. and yep way cheaper too. they wont have instructions, but they are self explanatory, just some mounting hardware and 2 wires.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: October 31, 2008 at 7:43 AM

A couple weeks ago I installed a remote start on a 2002 cavalier. I used a 555L bypass module. Everything seems to work perfect most of the time. However, every once in a while the car will not remote start. It fires up and runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off. It doesn't happen very often. Most of the time it starts fine and stays running. And if I use the key to start it and then remote start it works fine. And once in a while it will remote start fine and stay running and when I get to the car the anti-theft light is on in the dash. It runs fine but the light will stay on until I turn the car off. Again, both these issues are very random, I stress most of the time it works fine.

I am not sure if the bypass module is defaulty or if I possibly didn't get the exact right one for my car? Possibly a loose wire? I did double check all my connections. Any ideas? I'm kinda stumped here. Keep in mind this is my first install so I may have missed something.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 9:38 AM

So I went and bought an aftermarket actuator and installed it. And it is the same issue. Will unlock but will not lock the drivers door. I did a little more testing on the wires and here is what I found. On unlock the tan wire going to the motor gets power as it should. On lock the tan AND grey wire get power. I am pretty sure this is wrong. I cannot find anywhere that I tied into the unlock motor so I am not sure why this is happening. Any ideas out there?

Posted By: noobie4life
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 12:42 PM

Ok lets see if I can help. To start, I have a 2 door cavalier. When I wired up my alarm, I left the factory alarm totally intact. I then just disarmed it and left it at that. When I wired the aftermarket alarm to the factory doors, I used the factory relays. I used the factory wires and connections. The only difference is that I cut the wire for the lock wire where it goes to the BCM. In doing this, the aftermarket alarm will lock the doors but the factory BCM will unlock the doors BUT I spliced the drivers door unlock wire and the passenger door unlock together (to the aftermarket alarm) so that I dont need to press the disarm button twice.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 12:55 PM

Well here is what I did. I connected the lock and unlock from the new alarm system to the lock and unlock coming from the switch in the door. This way one touch will lock and unlock all doors. the factory system is still intact and should still work fine. Now I am starting to think that maybe there is a relay for the door that has stopped working? I assume with 2 wires going the the motor that one sends power while the other grounds. Depending which one will control which way the motor goes. What I am seeing is that when you press unlock the wires for the drivers side motor one shows 12 volts the other is at ground. and the door unlocks. when you press lock they are both showing 12 volts. this is only on the drivers door. It seems the unlock wire is not grounding during the lock process and this is causing the door to not lock. does anyone know if there is a relay or something for this door that may have blown?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 1:53 PM

I got thinking maybe I hooked something up wrong and am sending power to both on lock. So I cut the wire to the unlock of the motor and tested. On unlock there is power going towards the motor, which was expected. On lock there is power coming from the motor in the door. not coming from the other way. So I assume I was correct that the unlock wire is not grounding during lock. Any ideas what could be the cause of this?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 2:01 PM

Another idea... is there some kind of feature that won't lock the drivers door with the key in the ignition? Is it possible there is another issue maybe with the passlock bypass that is making the car think there is a key in the ignition and won't allow the door to lock?

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 2:58 PM

does the driver side door still operate normally with the switch?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 3:01 PM

no. nothing power will lock the drivers door. you have to manually lock it with the lock.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 3:12 PM

i ask because that tells you its not the install or the unit itself, but a problem with the cars electrical instead. does that wire have 12v all the time, or just when you lock and unlock?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:39 PM

The wires only get 12v when locking and unlocking. There are 2 wires going to the actuator. One gets 12v on lock and the other on unlock. The problem I see is that when one is getting power the other has to ground. This isn't happening on the lock. If I manualy gound the other wire while hitting the lock button then the door will lock. So to have one wire that can have ground and 12v I would think there would have to be a switch or relay somewhere. The Install I believe is correct because it is getting 12V when they are suppose to. But I think at some point during the install I must have blown the relay/switch mentioned. If I had any clue where that was I could replace it and I think everything would work fine.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:45 PM

there are relays, under the hood in the fuse/relay box. but they control all the doors, not just drivers, so thats not the problem, we gotta fix this another way. im thinking give me a few.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:46 PM

are you sure the drivers door is not on its own seperate relays? Given that with the factory fob the drivers door unlocks first and then the rest of the doors after?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:48 PM

In the manual for the fuse relay box under the hood it doesn't list any relays for door locks.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:51 PM

i think this is your problem. it should cost about $35.00 for a new one. CARQUEST part #SW3744. im 60% sure though, not 100%

posted_image

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:52 PM

ok, it appears I made my problem worse. while I was testing the ground for the lock I was grounding the unlock wire and the door locked. Then I accidentally hit unlock while I was still grounded and I think I blew the other relay. Now it won't lock or unlock with out me manually grounding the correct wire. So now I believe there are 2 switches or relays that I have to find.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 5:53 PM

why would you think its the switch?

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 6:03 PM

well......now you changed my mind about the switch. find this, its the door lock relay. its under the dash. which i dont think is bad either, but......... anyway, im thinking something else now that you mention it has factory driver door priority. ill get back to you in the morning after i do some research.

posted_image

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 06, 2008 at 6:04 PM

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 8:43 AM

delongboy, i do think your relay is bad. replacing that is going to be the first step in fixing your problem.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 8:50 AM

Ok, I will pick one up today and try it this weekend. Is there only one? I would think maybe there is 2 since it is only the drivers door that is not working. If there is 2 maybe I could just switch them and see if it works. Looks like its about $25. But I'll see what I can find and let you know.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 9:11 AM

i think there is only one, but if you do see 2, definitly swap them to see what happens.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 12:05 PM

Hey ckeeler, I was just looking at the wiring for the door locks and it almost appears that the drivers lock is controlled by the bcm and the rest of the doors are controlled by the door lock relay. take a look at this and let me know what you think.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 12:29 PM

your right delongboy. i was hoping that would not be the case. it can still be fixed. the question is do you still want driver door priority? it can be done with your aftermarket unit but will be more difficult. my suggestion is to take the factory wires from the door lock motor and cut them, then insulate the wires coming from the bcm side. run new wires from the motor side to the lock relays and tie them in with the rest of the door lock motor wires that operate off the relay. when you lock and unlock all the doors should work that way. if you want the driver door priority then you can wire in your unit to do that with another standard relay. what do you think?

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 12:35 PM

looking closely, it appears I only need to cut the one wire, the tan one and connect that with the relay. do you agree?

and by insulate the bcm wire, you just mean seal it off so it doesn't contact anything, right?

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 12:49 PM

yes exactly. just find a really good way to insulate it. and really one wire would work since the other side is already connected to a relay. the other side just needs to go to the other relay. the only problem is the factory driver door priority wont work, but you can always do it with your aftermarket system if you really want it.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 12:52 PM

I don't really care about the door priority.. was more annoying for me than anything else.. sounds great i'll give it a try this weekend and let you know. thanks for all your input... you have been a huge help.

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 12:58 PM

your welcome and sorry i steered you wrong on the actuator. its just that when i asked you to test it and you described the results of your testing, it sounded just like a dead door lock motor, and ive seen that too a bunch of times. good luck.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 07, 2008 at 1:27 PM

no big deal.. i think i got it for $7... just hoping i can get it working and be done with it.

Posted By: delongboy
Date Posted: November 10, 2008 at 10:08 AM

ckeeler, just wanted to let you know it worked as we thought. all good now. And if anyone ever goes looking for it, I found the door lock relay.. its right above the passenger kick panel.

Thanks again for all your help.

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