2008 tacoma remote start wiring

Hello,

Since the only shop in town i trust won't do a remote start on a manual transmission (They only sell DEI) i've decided to give it a run myself. I have done one remote start on an old Mercury Topaz that couldn't have been more straight-forward, so i thought i'd try my 2008 Tacoma X-Runner. I have decided to go with either a Compustar Pro 2WSSR or a Pro 2W9000FMR unit. I think they are the same brain (CM5000) that accept the new Blade override module.

I have been researching a lot on this forum and others and I think i have the wiring figured out, just wanted to post a list with the hopes one of the experts would be so kind to point out any errors before i start tearing into my truck.

Alarm Connector 1:
Red (12v constant) to vehicle WHITE/ Blue (12v constant)
RED / White (12v constant) to vehicle WHITE/ Red (12v constant)
Violet (- when armed) prewired to Starter Kill Relay
Green and Red (Ignition) to vehicle Blue / YELLOW (Ignition 1)and prewired to starter kill relay
GREEN / WHITE (Park Lights +) to vehicle Green at fusebox
White (Accessory) to vehicle WHITE/ Green (Accessory)
Yellow / YELLOW Black (Starter kill relay) to vehicle BLACK/ White (Cut starter 1)
Black to factory ground in drivers kickpanel

2nd Ignition Relay
Pins 86/87 to Red (12v constant) from Connector 1
Pin 85 to Green - ignition 250 mA output on Connector 3
Pin 30 to vehicle BLACK/ Red (Ignition 2) at vehicle ignition harness

2nd Starter Relay (Prewired to Connector 1)
Pins 86/87 prewired to RED / White (12v constant) from Connector 1
Pin 85 to RED / Black - starter 250 mAoutput on Connector 3
Pin 30 to vehicle GREEN/ Black (Starter 2) at vehicle ignition harness

Alarm Connector #3
Blue/Black (- lock) to vehicle Violet in kickpanel
Blue (- unlock) to vehicle GREEN/ Black in kickpanel
Yellow/Black (Tach) to vehicle BLACK/ White at Diagnostic Plug
RED / White (Door input) to vehicle GREEN / WHITE near fusebox
Lt.Blue/White (Brake) to vehicle Blue at brake pedal
Lt.Blue (hand brake) to vehicle GREEN/ YELLOW at fusebox
GREEN / WHITE (- parklights) to vehicle Green at switch harness
Violet (Dome light) to vehicle Black at fusebox

I will connect the Keysense and the other 2 wires as directed for the immobilizer bypass. They directions from Firstech are very detailed.

Do I need to connect the horn output from the remote start module to my vehicle if i would rather the siren to all the chirping? (arm, disarm, etc..)

Any one with experience with both Compustar models? is the new Pro2WSSR worth they extra cost?

I think that should just about do it. Thank you very much in advance to anybody willing to take a few minutes to confirm my list.

Cheers,
Chris

They are all listed as negative outputs, is that what i am looking for?

Yes all seems well there.

when testing the DOOR LOCK and UNLOCK wires, you must TEST these wires when turning the kEY in the DRIVERS DOOR KEY CYLINDER ONLY

POWER UNLOCK GREEN/ BLACK (TYPE B)(Requires Double Pulse)iN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, 10-Pin plug, Pin 8     
LOCK MOTOR WIRE BLUE/RED (+)IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, 12-PIN Plug, Pin 10

there is no need for diodes

Thank you very much for your help guys.  :)

i personaly never can get them to program i alwas use the by pass the requires a key to be in a box under the dash

Ahhh!

For some reason the siren and horn aren't chirping when they should now... its not in silent mode...? It was working fine yesterday. Not to mention when trying to put it into reservation mode the car just shuts off now.

The only thing i did change today was the keysense jumper in the brain. I had the keysense hooked up for the Blade module, and not for the brain (maybe i need diodes..?). When i hooked it up to the brain the siren starting working yesterday. I noticed the default was a positive input for glow plugs for that wire, so i adjusted the jumper accordingly. Now the siren doesn't work, even when i switched it back... Do i need the keysense hooked up for both the brain and the blade module?

And i still haven't tackled the clutch bypass.

I'm confused! Help please!

if you arm it and set off the sensor does it still kick the siren

It gets the remote buzzing away when i insert the key when armed, but no siren. When i shake the sensor it shows up on the remote too.

It really seems like its stuck in valet mode, but i cant seem to get it out, nor does it show up on the remote. Cycling the key on/off 5 times in the ignition does nothing... and the secure valet switch isn't working either.

Hmm.. Well, today cycling the ignition seems to work.. i re-leaned the tach signal to see if that was it.. still nothing. Lock/Unlock works, other than that its a paper weight.

i would try pulling off the keysense wire and see if you get the horn and siren back

I tried that, pulling the cm5000 key sense and the blade harness one, with no luck either way. Its gonna sit for the night with the battery disconnected and try again in the morning. Maybe i'm getting a bad tach signal from the ODB connector..? I measured over 6 volts with little change when the engine reved at higher RPM... Seems weird that it worked for a bit though. Would that cause any of these issues? Maybe disable the unit except for the door locks until a good tach signal is obtained?

Alright.. I got all the functions working again.. Still can't get the bypass to program (just checked the wiring, all A-OK) and have to tackle the clutch bypass.

Hahaha... I'm such a pet monkey!

The whole time i had the 20-pin connector for the Bypass plugged in backwards! Apparently, it will fit even without those tiny little channels lined up...   Amazing what better lighting does..

Wow.. I can't believe i wasted all that time for something so stupid!

lol thats funney

Anybody care to lend a hand with the clutch bypass for this "manual transmission safe" install? :)