Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2003 bmw e46, viper 5701

Hey guys, does anyone know what color are wires that are going to stock alarm LED aka "clown nose" located in E46 rear view mirror?

I have an access to the wiring loop through the manual crank sunroof cover but it's pretty tight and I don't want to mess with the rain sensor wires located in the same loom. I need to activate that LED from the aftermarket alarm

thanks

btw, e46 is 2003 325i bmw

Firstly, you're on a hiding to nothing, that LED may be running on 12volts whereas alarm LEDs run on 2.5volts, secondly the factory alarm is disabled via the unlock wire so an aftermarket will control it any way. You can either forget the alarm LED or use the strip both sides of the radio, remove them both and the section between the radio and the instrument cluster has an access hole behind it. It's a pain to get up the trims on a E46 with "A" pilar airbags, that's why you should mount the antenna behind the instrument panel. If you must, drop the mirror it's easier.

hey thank again howie,

OEM alarm on this e46 was never activated is the reason I want to use the clown nose. Clown nose is there but it does nothing. This is viper 5701 unit with hard wired control device - antenna, status led and valet switch all in one. I want to keep the status led visible (tap into clown nose), run separate hidden but accesable valet switch and hide the antenna behind the dash. If using that 5701 control device, it has to be mouted on the windshield as per Directed install manual. A-pillar is not that hard to remove on E46 but I don't want to run any wires next to the airbag inside there.

Anyone installed 5701 on E46? What did you guys do with that freaking control devise and where did you run it's harness?

5701 control device (bottom right corner in the pic) pic: Still don't unterstand why the combined it in one unit???? posted_image

You are correct, clown nose is no go, it's 12v. Anyone installed 5701 on bmw? where did you guys put that control device and where did you run the wire for it? A-pillar?

You are right about that antenna etc. BMW trick..........Remove grab handle, light above vizer and centre panel. I use curtain rod (white flexible plastic covered wire as a "fish wire"), Go from centre to light to side under grab handle removing seal. You've got space to go UNDER airbag-that's mandatory and you won't have to remove the "A" pillar trim, just the seal. Don't worry about airbag electrics, they are a long way away, the stuff in that "A" pillar is all passive.

hey howie, It seems like it's easier to remove A-pilar: all you have to do is get a very thin flat-head screwdriver so you can pop off the long oval-like cover that has the letters SRS on it. It simply pops out...Pry out each end at a time. Then there are 3 Torx screws to actually take off the A-pillar. Once you remove the screws; then you will see the airbags right under it. Now, is it safe to run the wire there?

Actually you will save half an hour using my method, believe me getting those torx screws out is a pain, I've done loads of phone installs so don't do think I would evolve a quick method?

can someone confirm or invalidate this statement?

Chris Luongo wrote:

The 556U works, but contrary to the instructions. You have to use the installation method that says "will not work in European vehicles."

lriceman wrote:

like chris said the 556u will work. you have to use the diagram that says will not work for european vechicles. if you use the diagram that says will work for euro cars then your gonna have to go to the dealer to
replace the entire ews system. One of the other guys I had worked with did this and it cost over 2k at the dealer to fix. The dealer will bend you over with no lube. LOL

I'm using 556u and was under the impression I need to use method #2 : "This method will work on European cars" But after seeing the above I am not sure I want to go to the dealer if I F it up

Uncle Howie has the answer 556U set for EUROPEAN CARS, don't use the antenna loop and DON'T use anything but the grey valet key, I've done 2 this week.

Just another thought, I've done alarms on 3 BMWs this wek,the last R/S alarm was an X5 two weeks ago, again, 556U,valet key, job done and a final trick, treat the car's purple (or violet) acc wire as a 2nd. ignition, the car won't start otherwise. Any BMW info that DEI has especially the E46 was supplied by me anyway, I've done UK, right hand drive and Euro-spec left hand drive which except for rear fog lights, no amber side light and the speedo in klicks instead of MPH would be identical to the US spec, N.B. the X5 mentioned above just happens to be US built anyway.

2003 bmw 325i

ok, wired the alarm so far, works as it should: one pulse would unlock just the driver's door, and a second pulse would unlock all the other doors.

However domelight supervision comes on only with the second pulse - all doors unlocked. First pulse unlocks the driver's door but no domelight supervision posted_image . Any ideas?

I guess howie is not around today. posted_image

Sorry, just got back, been on the road all day, lucky me, over here, they only require 1 pulse to unlock all doors. Use RED / blue pos wire, in lower floor illumination, use purple wire from alarm, also feed dome light supervision wire to this (BLACK/ white from alarm?) and power it from a positive source. That should get round the problem

hey thanks howie, that did the trick. Alarm works great now but my remote start doesn't. I can't get this thing to work on this car posted_image It's an auto trans.

Anyway, here is what I've got:

Ignition key harness:

Ignition 1 input/output ----------------green ; ACC output ---------- Purple; Starter output ------ blk/blu ----- starter side and key side acordingly;

Fused ignition input -------- red green; Fused ACC/Starter input --------- RED / blu

Remote start input:

Neutrak safety switch input ----- grounded; Tach -------------- black; Brake shutdown --------- disconnected for now to troubleshoot; hood pin ------ PURPLE / green (works for alarm)

Remote start output:

Status output to 556u blue;

neutral safety toggle is ON, 556 wired for Euro, Tried remote start it with key in the ignition - the same result, nothing. Car starts fine with the key. Any ideas? BTW, is it normal to see 12v on blue status of 556u ?

btw, I'm using grey valet key

Read my post of the 26th, "treat purple as 2nd ignition and wire accordingly, otherwise the remote start wont work".

howie ll wrote:

Read my post of the 26th, "treat purple as 2nd ignition and wire accordingly, otherwise the remote start wont work".

I see now, thanks. How does everything else look?

Fine and the 556U will show pos, assuming red to constant 12v+ and black to ground. Now let me get back to work,it's OK for you sunshine and mild climate, I was up at 6:00GMT to work on some vans at 7:30, I'm just taking a break before goig out, it's 30f. by the way to do an alarm.

If you are using a power probe to test then it should show you 12v at rest when not triggered. If when you remote start the blue wire doesnt go to ground then you have a problem with the blue wire. Ground the blue wire from the 556u and remote start the car and see if that works. And remember to follow howie's instruction when you wire the 556u. You actually have to cut the ring and hard wire to one of the factory immobilizer wires.

Thanks for your accistance guys, you've been a great help, thank you

Here is another one for you guys, I've noticed the following: if the car is started with the key and Alarm power (red) fuse is out, all doors in the car get locked. If door is open, car is started doors don't lock until you close the door. This again only happaneds when Alarm power wire red disconnected/fuse is out.

How do I avoid this? The reason I ask is that I would like to avoid the following scenario:

Car in the garage, alarm disarmed. Fuse burned out overnight (let's say), car user opens the door, starts the car to worm-up and closes the door---->doors lock and user is locked out with keys inside and car running posted_image .

Is there a way to prevent this?

I meant to say warm-up posted_image

Turn off the alarm's auto-lock! I'm pretty sure the car has one anyway, either speed or time controlled.

Ok guys, I think I'm going to pull my hair out with this car, still can't get remote start to work with this alarm

Here is what I got:

Neutral safety input - grounded

Tach wire - connected

Hood pin switch is working, tested with alarm

Brake shutdown wire - disconnected in the air for testing

Key is in the ignition to rul out the bypass.

Ignition harness connections:

Function	Pin	Alarm wire	Vehicle wire
(+)Ignition 1Input/ouput	1	Pink	Green
(30a Fused Igntion 2/ Flex relay Input 87	2	RED / Wht	RED / Blue
Accessory Output	3	Orange	Purple
(+) Starter Output (car side starter kill wire)	4	Violet	BLACK/ blue car side
(+) Starter Input (key side starter Kill wire)	5	Green	BLACK/ blue key side
(+)fused(30a) Ignition Input	6	Red	RED / Green
(+)Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output	7	Pink/Wht	Purple
Flex Relay input 87a key side(if req) of Flx Relay	8	Pink/Blk
Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input	9	RED / Blk

Please help