aftermarket remote central locking

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=108405
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 1:04 AM

Topic: aftermarket remote central locking

Posted By: directlinq
Subject: aftermarket remote central locking
Date Posted: October 25, 2008 at 3:53 PM

Hi I bought an aftermarket remote locking systems and wired it up as shown in the instructions.
If the cars lock wire is +12v when locked and 0v when unlocked and the unlock wire is 0v when locked and +12v when unlocked. I take it i need to set it up using the f4 positive/negative Trigger? I have a mk4 1999 fiesta 1.25. This setup will lock the car but not unlock it. The car wires im using are
(close signal)
=yellow/blue or yellow/black
(open Signal)
=WHITE/ violet or WHITE/ green
Why will it only unlock the car?
The unlock fuse blows when using f4 setup
Please help
Here is the remote central locking instructions

https://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr219/D...inq/HT188-2.jpg
https://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr219/D...inq/HT188-1.jpg
https://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr219/D...inq/HT188-3.jpg

Many Thanks

Replies:

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 12:49 AM

year make and model...please!

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Posted By: directlinq
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 2:50 AM

1999 Ford Fiesta 1.25 zetec

Thank You

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 4:28 AM

No it's F3 set pos, check each factory wire by flashing a cable from each wire to the fuse box. Have the lock cam turned round. The worst you can do is blow a fuse. It's confusing but you're not joining to motor wires you are joining to a trigger wire. On most cars those wires be they pos or neg draw about 50-110milliamps. On that generation Fords, they drew 2 amps. Also don't use the blue wire as it is to drive your indicators, branch out with 2 x 2N5404 diodes bar away from lock unit to the blue and blue/red (check) wires in the vertical loom in the driver kick panel. In fact everything except 12 volts+ (fusebox) is accessible there including grounding points and room to mount the control unit. Do you have a trunk (boot) release? If so check to see if the switch output is pos or neg. If it's pos, directly wire the pink. If it's neg use a relay, pink to 86, neg source to 87 and 85, boot release wire from 30

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 4:31 AM

Sorry just had another look at that diagramme it' simpler than I thought re the trunk release. Simply set your output to pos or neg depending on the release switch's output and join the pink directly to this ouput.

Posted By: directlinq
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 4:39 AM

Sorry for being a bit stupid but i take it by flashing the wires to the fuse box you mean put 12v through the factory wires?

And have the lock cam turned round means?

Sorry om very new to all this

Thank You

Posted By: directlinq
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 4:56 AM

also did you mean 1N5404 not 2N5404 as i cant find any of these diodes?

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 26, 2008 at 9:28 AM

Yes if you have the right ones it wil work if not at worsdt you will blow a fuse. These are the wires that go into the driver's door in the right hand kickwell.On the door the part that clicks over when you shut it, AKA catch. If you don't throw it over with fingers, screwdriver, etc the central locking won't work. Yes I did mean 2N5400 series they are 3 amps, sold by Maplin, RS etc, etc etc. I must have about 100 of them. 1N400 are only 1 amp rated, each side flashers draw 52 WATTS = 3 amps which is the current rating of the 2N5400 series.