viper 5900, 96 f150 door lock issue

1 - I have everything else pretty much squared away except i noticed that the door locks work normally in the truck just fine I might add but when I arm and unarm the vehicle they do not lock and unlock with them, they do nothing but however they still work manually by the switch so nothing is broken just wired wrong, I wired it per the instructions on the12v wiring diagram for my truck.  did I do it wrong?  I did it right at the plug in the passengerside kick panel.   Any help would be greatly appreciated

2 - Also on my 530t when i arm it they roll up perfectly basically it works perfectly now that i followed the instructions in my last post, but however now they driver side switch will only roll the driver side down and not back up, the only way to get the window up is to arm the system, any suggestions on this as well?

3 -  I was also wondering if when I turn on Remote Start when armed, can i have it unarm it automatically?  Right now I can remote start and it wont set off the alarm but if i just go and open the door to get in the alarm goes off, but I do have the ability to unarm it while its Remote Started, so is there anyway to Automatically disarm then remote start in one swift button config?

sneakycyber wrote:

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Did you have keyless entry before installing the remote start? The Alarm automatically arms when you remote start your supposed to disarm the alarm (unlock the doors) before entering the vehicle.

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Thanks on the remote start portion, 2 left...

It has no keylesss entry,  I have tried playing with all the wires and nothing works.  I really cant see where I went wrong. the wires i hooked it up to give off 12v when the button is pressed, but if it had been right like it was it would of at least did one of the two: unlock or lock  Im lost as to what the problem causing it from locking and unlocking on arm and disarm but working nornally from the switches.

I also didn't hook up any wires on H2 wiring harness, Was I supposed to? Um this 2nd Unlock output looks important I feel like a jackass is this what i am missing?

if this truck didnt have factory keyless entry the door locks are 5 wire reverse polarity. did you use relays and wire them up as such?

ckeeler wrote:

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if this truck didnt have factory keyless entry the door locks are 5 wire reverse polarity. did you use relays and wire them up as such?

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I Sure Didnt I guess I got the instructions wrong, swore it said that if i have keyless it was 5wire reverse polarity, so I need to get 1 or 2 relays, how do i know what to get and how do i wire it up to my two wires?

This is what I read and I guess i got it goofed up, So What can I do to Rectify this?

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POWER LOCK PINK / YELLOW (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL

NOTE *1 If equipped with FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY, Vehicle is a TYPE "B" Door Locking System, WITHOUT FACTORY KEYLESS, This is a TYPE C Door Locking System and you MUST get the lock and unlock wires in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL (Parking Brake Braket is in the way) you MUST also TEST for SWITCH and MOTOR wires ONLY with the DRIVERS DOOR SWITCH. On this TYPE C System you MUST TEST from the DRIVERS DOOR Switch only when testing for SWITCH and MOTOR wires.

Keep in mind you are going to need a Transponder By Pass module in order to by pass your ignition switch. You will also need a spare key as you need one inside theby pass kit to fool your ohms resitance in your key switch.

It is a very simple hook up you will need to remove the steering wheel shroud, & remove ignition.The easy way to remove ignition is press the silver button on the underside with key in run position, with button pressed a simple tug should do ya.

Then you want to wrap antenna wire on the plastic housing as close to key switch as possible, then secure with a good zip tie.This can be a trial & error process, You simply have to find the sweet spot, so to say.

Transponder is a simple 3 wire hook up .Power , ground & factory alarm shutdown wire.If vehicle will not start put key in ignition & if it starts then you know it is a transponder by pass problem.DO NOT CUT TRANSPONDER ANTENNA....

keep in mind depending on the unit you install, you may need relays for your door locks to function properly.

=====================================================================================

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yep, with keyless they are negative trigger(type B). without they are 5 wire(type C). see the relay/door lock section on this site, it will show you how to wire them up.

Thanks a lot!!  I have an idea as to what i am doing I just must of got them backwards.  Luckily nothing was harmed.

Now allI need to fix is the Window problem Hope someone out there knows. ANYONE!?!? hehe

ckeeler wrote:

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yep, with keyless they are negative trigger(type B). without they are 5 wire(type C). see the relay/door lock section on this site, it will show you how to wire them up.

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i want to double check, i got a 8 wire harness formy locks, here are whati got for em

2 are window wires

1 is 12v constant 24/7

1 is 12v lock Passenger switch only Meaning only passenger side switch operate passenger at 12v lock

1 is 12v unlock Passenger switch only Meaning only passenger side switch operate passenger at 12v unlock

1 is 12v lock driver and passenger switch Meaning both side switches operate passenger at 12v lock

1 is 12v unlock driver and passenger switch Meaning both side switches operate passenger at 12v unlock

I am unsure what the other one is for Ground maybe?

still 5wire right sounds right to me though, and no actuator that i know of cause when i look into the door i just see the motor right there in front of me NO excess wires coming down to a box or anything

5 wire I hope, that appears to be 2 relays eww I didnt wanna have to touch relays

All problems seem to have been rectified, i have yet to try the locks and install relays i have a couple questions on the relays, Shock Sensor, and Heater/AC

1 - How do I hook up the relay.  I know how it gets wired I just dont see how i put the wires on it without killing the circiuit to control the locks with the switches.

Basically I just need to know how to hook up the Switches and Motors to the Relay I see the diagram for 5wap but how do i add them exactly.  I have a wire for Motor Lock(Pink/Orange) and Wire for Motor unlock(Pink/Black), Wire for Switch Lock(Pink / YELLOW) and Switch unlock(Pink/Lt Green).  do I splice a wire into each of these wires and run it to the relays? Will that work or is that the wrong way to do it?  Also I will use the 12V wire(BLACK/ White) at that same plug as the other wires. basically take 4 Wires attach to relays as needed then solder them 4 wires into a spot on the BLACK/ White 12v Wire, would that be good or bad on power consumption?  I tend to overanalize things and I have a pretty Good idea I am correct on how to do this but I wanna make sure as I have had a couple of problems in this install that seemed stupid but easily fixable without damage to my factory wiring or vehicle period.

Here is a diagram of what the door locks wiring looks like https://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/253951_1

2 - The Heater/AC Does not come on with Remote start like it should, it only comes on after i get in the truck and turn the key to the RUN position(Everything else like stereo does come on but i think thats because it is plugged into a different source.)  I have 3 Gray / YELLOW Wires(2 Big gauge ones, and 1 small gauge and thats what I hooked it up to according to a local stereo shop, the small one.)  Should it be ran to the Bigger ones? Did I hook it up wrong, I am pretty sure cause otherwise I would have the Heater/AC turning on.  Yes the Heater is set to be on not off so that isnt the problem.  Also will it hurt anything to swap it around to test each wire?

3 - And Finally the Shock Sensor, Its the cheap basic one that came with the Alarm.  Which way moves sensitivity up?  Right up, left down?  I really don't notice any difference to what settings I select.  I don't get any kind of Warn Away beeps either.   Which way is the plug supposed to be in it?  where the Green wire is looped to the Blue wire need to be near the Sensor or Control Module or Either way?  Also how should I treat this Sensor, can I bind the wires togehter or does it hender performance?  I have seen several forums posting to Mount it on Chassie or metal but the book says not to.  I am pretty sure I need a different sensor because what I want is minimal protection on the outside but I would like a warn away, and to have FULL security on the inside of the truck so when people put their hand in my window it sets off the alarm.  But I am wondering if someone goes by with a loud sub system in their car if it will set off the proximity portion of the sensor, I wasn't sure if Sound Waves could interfere with proximity.  I do know if the Shock portion is turned high it will set off with subs of passerbys but would proximity do the same?

Any Knowledgeable input on these questions would make me happy and I thank you for your time on helping me through this mess.

ok it didn't work, when i arm and unarm the locks do nothing.  None of the switches work now except the Passenger Switch will unlock the doors but that is all i can get either switch to do, just the passenger to unlock.

There is a plug in the passenger kick panel with:

• Lock Switch - Pink / YELLOW
• Lock Motor - Pink/Black
• Unlock Switch - Pink/Green
• Unlock Motor -  Pink/Orange

Like what he told me I cut the Pink / YELLOW and Pink/Green on the door side of that plug and ran them to the 30's and 87a's like he said and ran the powers to the BLACK/ White wire on the Plug which is a constant 12v

So what did I do wrong I followed directions is there something different on my truck as to what he described?

ALSO this is a BIG also cause I got one of the relay's used, Could it be possibly bad?  If it was why would Unlock only work on the passenger side and not the driver side switch?  and the alarm doesnt unlock it either.  Any help to fix this mess would be greatly appreciated.

have to use passengers side, drivers side is blocked by the parking brake, used drivers side to test the wires but like i said I have 2 wires for the motors and 2 wires for the switches on passengerside, an eight wire plug seen https://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/253951_1"> here look this over and tell me what to do, ifnothing else save it, highlight where i need to put everything if i can, on the image and upload it somewhere so i can see what you are talking about

https://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/253951_1

sneakycyber wrote:

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Not sure what went wrong but to fix the factory switches just put the factory wires back together.

Did you get the wires in the drivers kick and use the DRIVERS SWITCH to test the wires?

Are you sure the black with white wire is ALWAYS on. Some newer fords the vehicle goes into sleep mode which disables the door locks (usually they have keyless though) and that wire may not have constant 12v. I would get the power in the ignition harness where you connected the alarm. Did you test the wires to make sure there on the correct pins of the relay? Did you remember to connect the relays to the Alarm? Did you double check the relay wiring (do the relays click when you lock/unlock with the alarm) Check the output from the relays and make sure there working correctly.

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Relay Wiring is 100% Correct, cut both the Pink / YELLOW & Pink/Lt Green and put them in the appropriate Relay and proper pin, 12v on one wire and ground on another when switch pushed, but however if i use the other switch it gives me a 12v reading, which is why i was wondering if i just tap into all 4 wires since i have them, i got the switch lock and unlock wire over there, and the motor lock and unlock wire there, if ya have yahoo my messenger is midtownhazard@yahoo.com

I found this at commando, i know its not a commando alarm but it, and crutchfield both show the same way opposite the12volt for my wiring the relays.  https://www.commandoalarms.com/reversepolaritylocks.pdf   I have a ton of this misleading information lately i don't know who to believe(site wise). 

Note on door locks on Commando as well:  WITHOUT FACTORY KEYLESS, This is a 5 Wire Reverse Polarity Door Locking System and you MUST get the lock and unlock wires in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL (Parking Brake Braket is in the way) you MUST also TEST for SWITCH and MOTOR wires ONLY with the DRIVERS DOOR SWITCH. On this 5 Wire Reverse Polarity System you MUST TEST from the DRIVERS DOOR Switch only when testing for SWITCH and MOTOR wires.

I tested all the wires and what I found was that i have the 2 window wires up(Tan/Blue)and down(WHITE/ Yellow), 1 12v power(BLACK/ White, 1 is Lt Blue/Black no idea what thats for, and 2 door switch wires(Lock/Unlock) and 2 motor wires(Lock/Unlock) i think it wouldn't work to do what i was thinking and splice 4 wires, 1 into each motor and switch wires for lock and unlock.  It would definately allow the locks to work when they were normal but I don't know if they will work on arm and disarm or if it will bypass it, or they will stop the switches in the truck to work or if it will cook the relays.

This is a mess to me and I don't know where to go.

BTW Blue/Black on the plug is power to windows.  So there is 3 of 8 wires out of the way i have the

• 2 motor wires - Pink/Black--Unlock Pink/Orange--Lock
• 2 switch wires - Pink/Green--Unlock Pink / YELLOW--Lock    Tried to hook these up, no go only passenger unlock works.
• 12v - BLACK/ White - Got this one figured out, 87/86 lock relay; 87/85 unlock relay

I am not sure why I dont have a wire going from switch to motor to harness, would make sense,oh well Im Lost PLEASE HELP!! Anyone!!

I found this https://commandoalarms.com/FM-870install.pdf at the commando site, i know its not a viper but it had what I thought might be a helpful diagram for someone knowledgeable, its got 2 5wire configs, 1 reg 5 wire, and 2 step 5 wire, whcih one am I running? they also show the relay hook up diagrams for it.

Id do it a reg url but it wont let me keeps adding a stupid "> to the end of it

like this

I tried using the 2 switch wires, cut them in half and put corresponding ones on each relay, i got the passengerside only to unlock the doors that was it, now I hooked up just the Motor wires cut them correspondingly like diagram, and they are doing what I described above.  From what I gather do I need to just wire it back up to stock and splice into each wire and send it to a relay? 

I have 4 wires 2 switch wires, 2 motor wires lock/unlock for both sets of course

Do i just splice into each one and put it on the relay corresponding?

i figured it out on my own, thanks, thanks to Ckeeler and Sneakycyber