2002 lexus is200, avant guard 5.5
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=108757
Printed Date: July 05, 2025 at 7:48 PM
Topic: 2002 lexus is200, avant guard 5.5
Posted By: rabster
Subject: 2002 lexus is200, avant guard 5.5
Date Posted: August 29, 2009 at 4:17 PM
Im trying to get my Avant Guard 5.5 to talk to my new Callguard unit CG2.1 I can make the callguard controll my outputs i.e windows, boot, headlights. Although i cant get the unit to txt me when the alarm triggers i have wired it to the Horn output as advised by my installer but it still wont txt me Any ideas Cheers Andrew
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 29, 2009 at 4:28 PM
Yellow/white marked 2nd siren, its neg going so you have to convert as follows with a relay. Yellow /white to 85, 12v+ constant fused 3 amps to 86 and 30, 87 to siren input (brown?) on Callguard.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 29, 2009 at 4:44 PM
Hi Howie Cheers for that. the installer got 90% of it done yesterday but due to the fcat i have other circuits wired into the car he didnt get round to this bit, he had been working on the car for just over 8 hours. he had a right pig of a job getting the Central Locking to work but he got round that. Am i right in thinking the horn out put wont be able to tell the Call guard the difference between proximity warn and full trigger? Also what might be the reason the i cant get a GPS fix on the car if i send the code to the call guard i dont get a txt back. the Antenna is hidden out the way but not near the glass etc its got a Magnetic back so its stuck to a part of the bodywork or could i just be in a poor GPS reception area?? Cheers Andrew
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 29, 2009 at 6:13 PM
What vehicle? I can't help you unless you tell me. 8 hours seems a long time, even with R/S etc. Incidentally I would only use the prox, the tilt's liable to falsing and the glass break has to be turned down to accomodate the oter zone warn-away preventing it triggering that it's as good as useless. Regarding the Callguard, if the LED on the Callguard where the loom goes in flahes quickly every 5 secs. there's nothing wrong with it. Antenna mounted to bodywork where?. Remove the SIM card and test it in another phone, make sure it works (I keep a couple of spare unlocked phones for SIM testing, have to do this quite often on tracking equipment). Send a text message with it, then wipe all calls made and stored numbers from the SIM card, then re-insert it. Yes you're right a warn-away wont trigger the call-guard but does it matter? You would have to substitute a 508d for the regular dual-zone prox and is it worth it?
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 3:37 AM
Hi Its a 2002 Lexus Is200 the time was takn trying to integrate it into some of my after market features like folding mirrors i also had the intelistart wired in headlight flashing and cable routing was a bit of a problem the callguard works if i send it the status code itreturns the message armed or not armed and i can controll the outputs i have wired in im goin to put the relay in i fel stupid now asi didnt check the manual to see if it was neg or pos out put on the alarm but now i know the callguard is wired as defualy on the install guide it dosnt need to be wired as armed for the GPS to work does it ? no the walkaway isnt really worth wiring to the call guard i will be wiring in the door trigger feeds to it not that they matter as if the alarm triggers the unit will tell me... Cheers Andrew
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 7:36 AM
ok i have mixed success it now triggers the warn away when the alarm is going yet when testing the system it said full alarm
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 7:52 AM
sorry my mistake i didnt leave it triggered long enough to allow it to register full alarm
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 10:46 AM
The UK IS 200 is a PITA to do the locks unless you are me., but again it's easy if you know the vehicle, e.g. tach essentially you throw away the DEI installation guide.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 11:04 AM
Hey Yeah the Installer said it was a PITA to do the locks he did it with out using a relay which i thought he would have needed bassed on https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=661 he has dne it and bypassed the door lock switch on the drivers door. what way would you have done it just out of intrest would it have meant i could have kept my door lock switch ? he made everything else work, i guess the bonus of doing the work with the installer helped me understand the way it was all installed i mean i do alot of in car electronics, but was unsure of how the clifford worked but do now Andrew
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Firstly no customer comes within 50metres of me working. Second you don't need a relasy 'cause it's built into the alarm; which leads me back to that first comment. Customers are good for making me tea, getting me ciggies and leaving me alone, especially the locks on that vehicle, you don't have to go into the door, but you do have to muller a processor.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 12:39 PM
so are you saying the only way is to adapt the circuit board which is what the installer was advised however he has found a way around this i think its similar to the way in the link above but without the relay. i was thinking of changing it to this if it gave me my door lock switch back Which part of the Uk Do you work in Andrew
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 30, 2009 at 1:43 PM
North London.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 31, 2009 at 6:31 AM
Hi Just so i can get your take on this i have cheked how the system was installed, the installer has taken the Door lock wires Red & Green and routed them through the new alarm unit, thus enabling all 4 dors to lock an unlock without touching the existing door wiring, down side of this like stated before there is no lock or unlock from the drivers door or drivers door lock. The feature i want to re enable is the drivers door lock switch thus enabling unlocking and locking whilst driving mainly the unlocking feature seems a bit daft leaning over the car to let someone into the car (due to car locking when pulling away) here is my thinking correct me if im wrong, if i open up the drivers doo/window control unit modify the switch connection point to alow me to have 2 wires coming from the lock/ unlock switch back into the car and then wiring up to a relay to give the positive trigger to unlock the doors once locked diode to protect the alarm module from current feeding back into the brain of the unit essentially the wiring on the relay would be Simple relay to convert negative trigger to positive trigger then the output of this to second relay connected up as follows pin 30 Door lock wires (going to the doors) 87a Clifford Unlock wire 87 New unlock wire from relay switch 85 Ignition feed only (makes sure the car cant be unlocked by a coat hanger etc 86 Ground input What do you think ? i have been advised that if i reconnect everything back up and then tap into the 3 wires going to the door lock ecu and do the mod with a single relay as shown in the link above this may work, im sceptical as i dont realy want to blow the door lock ecu up as not sure what else is controlled by this if nothing then im not to fussed, Cheers Andrew
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: August 31, 2009 at 7:36 AM
Just out of curiosity which bits do you have to mod inside the Door lock control unit ? Cheers Andrew
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 31, 2009 at 9:20 AM
Remove control box above fuse box (2 x M8 spanner size screws) and I think 2 plugs. remove circuit board from box. find at lower end 2 x thicker tracks. Drill 10mm hole in box outer cover opposite the tracks. Place grommet in this hole. Cut the tracks. Test for no continuity. Temporary replace board. Use the factory remote to lock and unlock the vehicle. Upper one side will flash 12 volts on lock, other upper will flash 12volts on unlock. Upper 12v+ on lock gets gree/black that side lower gets white black. Upper other side (12v+ on unlock) gets blue/black, lower gets BROWN / black. Purple and purple black, 15 amp fuse to 12v+ constant. Very carefully solder these leads making sure there is no splash over of solder, again use a meter to check.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: January 14, 2010 at 12:23 PM
Hi Howie Sorry for the delay been a busy few months can i just confirm on the above post, that the box you are refering to is the MPX control unit located in the Yellow box? I have this open the only 2 big tracks that stand out are the ones coming from the realy are these what you are talking about i can upload a picture if this will make it clear from what i am saying ? bit confused on the last part of the above post i get the wiring you are talking about but the +12v feed to purple etc with out reading the manual thought i would get you to clarify if thats ok Cheers Andrew
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 14, 2010 at 5:51 PM
Yes, exactly what I said before. I've never had to go into the doors and never lost any switch control. Yes it's the 2 thick tracks at the lower end of the board. Use something like the circular cutter on the end of a Dremel tool to cut the tracks, it's cleaner. Incidentally DEI tells you to use this method.
I bring those cut tracks out through the grommet on loops, cut, then test connect as above, the purple and purple black get a 20amp constant power feed.
I've never had wiring run problems on that vehicle.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 7:04 AM
chers will be trying this over next few weeks weather and work dependant will get some pics taken to post up once done
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: January 21, 2010 at 3:16 PM
Ok so had the box apart just to confirm this is the section you meant howie ? 
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 3:39 PM
Hi all
little update i tried the way howie listed but all it seemed happy to do was blow fuses.
will have another look in the morning possibly
the fuse it was blowing was am2 in the engine bay....
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 4:27 PM
From the picture it looks like you've already blown/burnyt one of the tracks! Ah amateurs.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 4:38 PM
NO! actually i removed the track completely as its a safer bet than just cutting, i do take offence to the amateur statement however.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 5:55 PM
Of course you're an amateur, you mention the installer on your first post so you're either an amateur by definition or worse a DIY fiddler. If you're blowing fuses you've wired something wrong or you didn't TEST across those tracks with a DMM to see if you shorted across by mistake, an amateur thing to do.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 28, 2010 at 3:20 AM
Terrible twins, this guy hijacks the thread, describes in detail the install, then tries to upgrade or change it himself, I would define that as cheapskate amateur.i.e. taking the food away from the original installer.
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: March 28, 2010 at 3:32 AM
Yes that's right I had an installer install the alarm as it's a Clifford and general users are not meant to install otherwise I would have done it my self
yes I did check the tracks I removed with a DMM as it happens the standard door locks did function once connected up the way u mentioned but the Clifford unit was the one blowing fuses
you don't know what background I come from so you are assuming I know nothing due to asking for help which is the wrong assumption.
I may not be a credited alarm installer but does not mean I'm not qualified in electronics. So cutting tracks isn't hard is it you state just cutting the track I say remove.
I could go into what my background is but would make no difference to you as you have already decided I'm thick.
I still have my doubts though the way you mentioned will allow my doors to have the double locking back they had before. I will post up details of the double locking from my files. You may require this in future
Posted By: rabster
Date Posted: March 28, 2010 at 4:46 AM
Howard, the installer installed the alarm to what he believed was correct only after this did I realise I had no second lock a security feature of the car I was informed that the company would not muller the processor as you call it as it is then tampering with factory components not adding an aftermarket solution. As for being a cheapskate yet again this is another assuption totally unfounded. For example at no point have you offered to do this at a price if you had I would have accepted but instead your happy to slate me on open forum for no real benefit. I came here asking for advice on a Clifford alarm. Which you gave, I did speak to the installer direct who was not happy to come back and change the locking system. Thus he turned down the work so hardly stealing the food from his table etc.
As for hijacking a thread if one of the admins/moderators would be so kind as to move this posts they feel are hijacking to a thread labeled IS200 door locks it would be great.
For the record howard I work as an installer but in a different idustry doing stuff you probably wouldn't understand I say probably as I do not know your background I'm very good at what I do, prior to this job role I spent 10years diagnosing electric faults on cars. I have also gained electronics and electrical qualifications.
So I say once again I am offended by the amature statement as you do not know me.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 28, 2010 at 4:59 AM
I'll give you an example of where you are an amateur your last post was the first time you mentioned double locking. Are we talking about progressive unlock or deadlocking? Also the points you made in your last post weren't made apparent originally. Starting a new thread and giving us the whole story would have made me more sympathetic.
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