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viper 5900, 1998 acura cl 3.0

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=108834
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 10:19 AM


Topic: viper 5900, 1998 acura cl 3.0

Posted By: evil_ninja
Subject: viper 5900, 1998 acura cl 3.0
Date Posted: November 11, 2008 at 12:03 PM

Hi,
I am working on installing the Viper 5900 on my car which is Acura 1998 CL 3.0. Thanks the12volt.com, I found all of the wiring location where I need to connect to. But I have some questions to ask.

+ My car has a trunk release funtion which can be controlled by the OEM remote. I guess it has a relay already. In this case do I need to connect another relay for this signal?

+ The viper has input for another dual stage sensor (H1/7 Multiplex Input). I want to ask for suggestion that which sensor I should use beside the shock sensor which is already connected to shock sensor channel.

+ What is the purpose of the activation input (H1/10)? I see it connect with the switch. Is it a manual input provides the input signal which can be used for program purpose?

+ Where I should connect H1/12 to?

Those are my current questions. I highly appreciate your time for reading and answering my questions.

Best regards,




Replies:

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 11, 2008 at 2:32 PM

you will need a relay to do the trunk release because it is 5 wire.





Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: November 11, 2008 at 8:12 PM

you can use the dei 508d motion sensor, it's amazing once you mount and adjust properly, what colour wire is your h1/10,  the h1/12 is the RED / white wire i think, you can use it to activate the relay for ur trunk pop, if you need help on how to wire the trunk pop post back.



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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 8:39 AM

@ckeeler: thank you for your answer.

@t&t tech: I did use h1/1 to open the trunk already. Now I know the h1/10 (WHITE/ Blue) is used to connect with the programmer switch. In the installation guide of Viper 5900 (https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/viper/N5301V_05-06post.pdf)

it says

h1/12 (Orange): This wire supplies a (-)500 mA ground as long as the system is armed. This output ceases as soon as the system is disarmed. The orange wire may be wired to an optional Directed Electronics 8618 starter kill relay.

I am not sure about the function of this wire, and should I connect it or not? In some forums many guys say they don't connect this wire. So I am looking for a suggestion.

In the harness 2 there are 2 wires I don't know:

+ h2/1 (light blue) second unlock output: should I connect to the second door trigger? I don't sure is there this wire or not but I know one of the function of my current car alarm is if I click open second time, it will open the second door. I guess they are the same function.

+ h2/4 (GREEN / WHITE) factory rearm/ h2/6(Light GREEN/ Black) factory disarm: once again these wires are suggested not used. Should I use them? Cause I know where the factory disarm is but I don't know where factory rearm wire is?

Best regards,





Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 9:32 AM

I always install the starter kill relay, but like you say some guys dont. that one is optionl and completely up to you.

the light blue wire is for the driver door priority. you dont need this wire unless you are going to want driver door priorty like the factory keyless did. if so you need to look at the door lock section on this site, it will show you how to hook it up and will also require an additional relay.

hook up the light GREEN/ black wire. the other wire wont be needed.





Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 9:33 AM

I have 10 years experience with DEI stuf and I can sincerely say that if you want to avoid false alerts STAY AWAY FROM THE 508D - YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!

If you absolutely want to add a second sensor, put a 507T. This is an electronic tilt sensor which self adjusts to inclines everytime you arm your system. It'll let you know if someone wants to tow or raise the car to steal your precious wheels or your cat (if you have one).

Just my 2 cents.



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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 9:37 AM
Big Dog wrote:

I have 10 years experience with DEI stuf and I can sincerely say that if you want to avoid false alerts STAY AWAY FROM THE 508D - YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!

If you absolutely want to add a second sensor, put a 507T. This is an electronic tilt sensor which self adjusts to inclines everytime you arm your system. It'll let you know if someone wants to tow or raise the car to steal your precious wheels or your cat (if you have one).

Just my 2 cents.


ditto on that





Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 9:54 AM

Hi,

So how about the glass break sensor? I think this kind of criminal is more popular right?

Just my 1 cent question posted_image





Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 10:29 AM
I've worked with the 506T audio sensor and they're pretty stable. Don't forget though that if you shatter a window with a crowbar, there's a pretty good chance that the impact sensor will pick it up. The 506T picks up high frequencies only so it might be handy if you arm with the windows down or sunroof open.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: November 12, 2008 at 5:03 PM
also just so you know, you won't need to install an extra relay for starter kill, as the xcrs has it built in once you connect the purple and green wires to the starter, green to key side, purple to engine,it also prevents you from engaging your starter wire again after remote starting, you can always use the orange wire to activate other add ons, sorry for the earlier mistake about the wiring, i've only done one 5900 so far so i was guessing, seems they switched the order on the harness though, as it seems to be reversed.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 13, 2008 at 9:30 AM

Thank you,

you saved me a starter kill relay posted_image

About the XCRS module I don't know how to connect these wires:

+ Green (Starter Input) What you mean key side? I don't know which wire is it.

+ Red (12V input high current)

+ RED / White (12V output high current)

Thank you guys.





Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: November 13, 2008 at 10:28 AM

All heavy gauge red wires (with or without stripes) are high current 12V positive inputs.

Once you cut the BLACK/ white starter wire at the ignition switch you end up with two ends.

The end that goes to the key is connected to the XCRS green wire.

The end that goes towards the engine is connected to the XCRS purple.



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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 13, 2008 at 2:09 PM

@Bid Dog: thanks a lot: I have no idea that I have to cut the wire. They didn't say that in the instruction. How about the High current input and output? Which wire I connect with?

Another one is I bought the Honda SL3 for the bypass purpose. I don't sure I need it or not because my key doesn't have a chip inside, but there is still an anti-theft system.





Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 13, 2008 at 8:04 PM
I want to know beside the starter wire, do I have to cut another wire?

Thanks,




Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: November 14, 2008 at 8:39 AM

Here's the wiring data for your car: Acura CL

Match the wiring description for your car to the wiring descriptions as per the 5900 install guide.

You're asking if you have to cut any other wire. The starter wire is the only one you cut for the 5900. You will have to cut the vehicles data wire for the Honda SL3. All the other wires of the 5900 and Honda SL3 are simply connected without cutting.

If you suspect that you don't have a transponder: Do the complete installation of the 5900 then try to remote start - you'll know quick enough if there's an immobilizer or not. If it fails to start then just slide the key into the barrel (don't turn it on) and try to remote start. If it starts then it has a transponder.



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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 14, 2008 at 9:03 AM

Thanks again.

I have the Acura wiring already. Cause in the install manual they didn't say anything about cutting wire. After reading manual of other remote start module I understand more.

I understand how to wiring the Honda SL3 now. One thing is the data link cable. Should I connect this data link cable with Viper 5900? Actually I don't know which port is the data link port. Is it the program port?





Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: November 14, 2008 at 9:09 AM
The datalink cable isn't compatible with the 5900, it's for CommandStart and others.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 14, 2008 at 11:50 AM

Hi,

Do you use diot for each relay? If yes, what type of diot you are using and where is the best place you connect it with the relay cause I didn't see any open place I can connect the diot with.

Thanks





Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 14, 2008 at 11:58 AM
it depends, what are you using the relay for? the trunk release? is so, you wont need a diode.




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 14, 2008 at 11:46 PM
Hi,
I have just check my Honda SL3 module. Unlucky to me, this is an old module. It's 2007 module, so the wiring is not the same with the new one. The wiring diagram doesn't require to cut any wire.
One thing is I don't know is the wire Blue which connects to icon remote start (-) while running. What is the wire of the Viper 5900 I should connect this wire with?
Please let me know soon. I need to do wiring tomorrow morning.
Thanks,





Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: November 15, 2008 at 1:03 AM
blue (-) status output of remote start . Coming off relay pack.

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Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 18, 2008 at 3:41 PM

Hi,

Cause the bypass module which I bought is an old version, so I intend to change for another one. I am thinking about the DEI brand cause it will compatible with my remote start module. But I don't know which module I should buy. I see there are some pages show that 556 can be used with Acura 1998 CL but some pages say that it doens't support.

This page shows that 556H supports Acura 1998 CL

https://www.drdetailshop.com/Transponderreference.htm

example says 556 doesn't list Acura CL:

https://www.sonicelectrnix.com/item_8018_Directed+556H+-+556HW.html

Best regards,





Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: November 18, 2008 at 7:08 PM
The Honda SL3 should work on your car.

There's no need to worry about the bypass being DEI or not. The status output from the Viper 5900 will activate any bypass module.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: evil_ninja
Date Posted: November 24, 2008 at 11:56 AM

Yesterday I started to work with installation. I have to delay cause of the weather. It's so cold.

One issue I recognized in the installation is if I do wire to the wiring which connect to the Security Module under passenger seat the wires will cross all over the car and everything will look messy. I guess all of this wires will go to the lower dash panel. Should I connect directly there? Cause the wiring only point to the position under the passenger seat, so I don't know how to find the wire under the dash panel.

My machenical friend also told me that, if by some mistakes I generate a shock electronic signal my car can be unable to start. Is there any good way to prevent it happen?

In case I still have to connect to the security module under passenger seat, I need to remove my seat. I have one question, if I remove the harness connect to the seat. will the car still work if I don't connect the harness back?

Thanks,






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