2008 toyota highlander, autostart

I'm installing an Autostart Remote starter into a 2008 Highlander and got the following from an earlier closed post:

12volt - wht/blk & purple
Ignition - Blk
2nd Ign - Lt. Blue
Acc - Gray
Starter - Yellow
2nd Start - Red
Keysense - lt. blue
Lock - brown DKP in left side of black plug
unlock - purple DKP in left side of black plug; requires double pulse unlock. Locks can be tested from driver's door key cylinder.
Unlock motor - Green DKP in same black plug as the locks.
Lock motor - Blue DKP in same black plug as the locks.
Lights (+) - pink @ fusebox, connector P
Lights (-) - Lt. blue @ headlight switch
Brake (+) - blue @ fusebox, connector C

Door trigger : Front Driver's door - Blue DKP in black plug or pin switch; Front Passenger - Blue; Rear driver - Black; Rear Passenger - Gray (I found all of these wires at the pin switches...I didn't have time to trace them back to a central location).

Domelight (-) - Brown @ ignition illumination cylinder
Horn (-) - Yellow @ switch

Question regarding fusebox connectors C & P, Can someone tell me how they are numbeRED / lettered etc.? laying upside down under the dash, I can't tell which is which. it looks like there are 5 at the top and 3 at the bottom.

Also the autostart info shows different colors and refers to the BCM. Can anyone please confirm?

Thanks in advance

The plugs are facing towards the rear of the car, not underneath. Remove the knee bolster and drop the airbag to see the plugs. On the body of the box there are small letters. You can use the brown domelight wire for your door trigger and avoid running wires altogether.....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the help. Appreciated.

From my first post, Lights (+) - pink @ fusebox, connector P

Can anyone suggest another location? There is no pink wire in that connector?

I was told that the park light and brake light wires are on the left of the fuse box. I verified the brake light on connector C, I have the tach wire from the VSS signal (light blue wire on the ODB connector). I just need the positive park lights and if someone can suggest the best way to do the door locks.

Thanks

Help on one more thing:

Do I need to wire (via diodes) both the unlock and disarm wires to my door unlock and disarm wire?

All doors are locking and unlocking, motor cranks for about 3 secs then shuts down, but remote says it is running. I have not hooked up an immobilizer yet, but I have had the key in the ignition so it should not be inhibiting the start.

Currently I have the remote start unlock wire to the vehicle disarm wire and both the remote start lock and arm wires to the vehicle arm wire.

For the lights I am using just the remote start parking light output (-) connected to the light blue parking light wire at the steering column. I haven't done anything yet with the autolight turn off etc.

Also had to relay the 2nd ignition and 2nd start wire.

Only thing I'm not sure about is the doors.

Any help would be appreciated.

The  doors are simple, just connect the lock wire to brown in the door harness and that will arm the factory alarm. For unlock, you want to connect the unlock wire to purple in the door harness This way, the first time you press unlock just the drivers door will unlock and the factory alarm will disarm. The second press of the remote will unlock the rest of the doors just like the factory remote. If the car does have a factory alarm you will need to connect the keysense wire so they alarm disarms when the RS is in use....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for your response Mike. I think it may be the keysense that i'm missing. I had a couple of weird problems in that I had to remove the remote start tach wire because it cranks too slow with it connected. I had the key in the ignition, so I assumed that it would run since it should be getting the correct keycode and now cranking correctly, but no luck.

Sean

Having problem with Key-override-all. When I put the key in the ignition, the remote start starts the vehicle fine, when I try to start without the key, it won't start. It looks like the override module is not working.

Has anyone run into this before?

did you make all the right connections on the immobilizer harness ? try switching the RX and TX also make sure you have keysence hocked up

I have it hooked up in the following manner
Bypass Module
green keysense (-) connected to blue/white wire at ignition switch 2 pin connector.
PURPLE / white Rx wire connected to pin 4 red wire on transponder 7 pin connector
yellow/black Tx wire connected to pin 5 lt. blue wire on transponder 7 pin connector
blue while running wire (-) connected to the ground out while running via diode. Diode also bypassed to double check that I did not have the polarity backwards.

Just following on from my previous post, the keysense sits at 10.4V, when the key is inserted it drops down to about 0.5V. When I measure the keysense without the key, the fortin unit does not drop the voltage below 9.16V, so it looks like the fortin unit is the problem. I'm debating diode 'OR'ing the keysense wire to the ground out wire as well as the fortin unit to see whether the fortin unit is not getting good data on the Rx Tx lines and therfore not pulling the keysense low.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks guys