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98 grand am remote start 4

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109063
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 9:32 PM


Topic: 98 grand am remote start 4

Posted By: Fosgate3
Subject: 98 grand am remote start 4
Date Posted: November 19, 2008 at 8:12 PM

I'm installing an Ungo RK1 keyless and remote start on a 98 Grand Am. I thought about bypassing the passlock system the "old fashioned" way and I wanted to make sure that this diagram is the one I should follow: https://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/137.jpg I know I can get a module for the car, a DEI 555L if I'm not mistaken; and I may end up doing that. I was trying to save the cost though.

Also, I found a link (https://www.velocitymotorsport.com/security/vatts.html) that talks of the PL 1 and 2 systems. I'm thinking the one on this car is a PL1... is that correct?

The owner bought the car used and never had a factory keyless entry remote. It's unknown if there actually is a factory keyless entry. I wanted to tie in the trunk release option of the Ungo system and was curious where I could find the factory keyless "brain" to catch the trunk release wire. It may not have one... There is NOT a trunk release button, only a lever to pull on the floor by the driver's seat. Is there a place to look for a factory module to tie into a trunk release?

Lastly, in our forum's vehicle wiring database, it indicates the ignition 1, 2, and 3 and states that the the ignition 2 must be used with a remote start system. I would assume that even if it must be used, it still connects to the ignition 2 wire of the remote start system and the ignition 1 (pink wire) connects to the RS's "primary ignition" wire. Is my assumption correct?

Thanks in advance for reading!




Replies:

Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: November 19, 2008 at 8:22 PM
If you see a little resistor in the key, it is passlock1, and it should be passlock1.....some might call me crazy...but I like to those the old fashioned way. You are correct on the ignition wires....just make sure you're second ignition wire (if programmable) is set to second ignition.

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Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: November 19, 2008 at 8:25 PM

Thanks for the fast reply!!! There is not a resistor in the key and I will check on that about the ignition 2 setting.

I just edited the post and added the bit about the trunk. Any ideas on that?





Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: November 19, 2008 at 8:56 PM
sorry...I gave you wrong info. For some reason I was thinking of vats... Which would have the resistor in the key. Go by the first diagram you listed from Velocity.

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Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: November 20, 2008 at 8:54 AM

I looked around and found a spare 555L among my supplies. On my 555L, I have the following wires:

Blk/Yel
Yellow
Blk/Wht
Black
Blue/Blk
Violet
Pink
Red

The Blk/Yel goes to the car side of the yellow resistance wire and the Yellow wire goes to the switch side of the resistance wire
The Black wire connects to the black reference wire in the 3-wire passlock wire group.
The Blue/Blk wire would go to the Ungo's "Remote Start Activation" wire (WHITE/ blue).
Pink goes to the primary ignition wire in the car, the same wire that the Ungo ignition one goes to.
Red is 12v positive.

The remaining two wires are confusing me:
The directions for the 555L indicate the Violet wire goes to the negative input from starter relay. I'm not sure what wire this connects to. The RK1 has a (-) 200mA Starter Relay Turn-On wire in a 7-wire ribbon cable. Would this be the wire to tap into? It's in a ribbon cable and not a loose wire. *OR* would I use the purple (-) 200mA Starter Relay Trigger wire? To reference the RK1 wiring, our forum's download section has the DEI Viper 160XV which is the same set up, just a different name.
The other wire is the Blk/Wht wire, indicated to be "(-) output to bulb check wire" What exactly is that and where is it found?

Thanks again, in advance, for reading and responding!





Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: November 21, 2008 at 5:21 PM

Update:

I found the bulb check wire and got that connected. I still dont know what wire the violet wire should go to. I also realized that the blue/black wire actually goes to the negative status output, not the "remote start activation" wire like I thought. So now, I just need to know what is the best thing to do with the violet wire of the 555L

Also, I tested the remote start portion of the alarm with the key in it. The car would start but would continue trying to start. The car starts fine manually though so I dont think its a car issue. I had the 555L connected except for the violet wire and the wires that go into the passlock wiring... could that interfere??

thanks for reading....



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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: November 22, 2008 at 6:59 AM

Still looking...



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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: November 23, 2008 at 5:06 PM

I found where the violet wire of the 555L goes... I was overlooking a wire on the Ungo. I also discovered that I mistakenly used the wrong alarm wire for sensing the tach. I found that and corrected it, also "taught it" the tach! So... now it has learned the tach and the 555L appears to be connected right. I tried to remote start the car and it starts but immediately dies. It does this with or without the key in the ignition.

I've checked all my connections and to my knowledge, I have them right... unless I used a wrong tach wire on the car. Anyone have any suggestions at all?



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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: November 24, 2008 at 11:58 PM
any suggestions?? please?

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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 2:08 PM
That violet wire should go to either one of those two (-) starter wires you mentioned. It has to see ground during crank in order to activate the bulb test wire, which tells the IPC to look for the Passlock code.

Try the following steps:

1. Do a valet take-over(i.e. activate the remote start while the car's running with the key). If it works properly (parking lights flash and then come on steady, the remote start doesn't try to crank the starter, and it stays running after you turn the key to "Off") then you know your problem is with the bypass. If you can't get it to valet take-over, you've probably got a bad/unprogrammed tach wire or a missing wire connection at the ignition harness.

2. The 555L needs to run for 5 seconds or so with the key on in order for it to learn the R-code. Do that again if you haven't already.

3. Recheck to make sure you have the BLACK / YELLOW and yellow wires going in the right direction on the yellow Passlock wire.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: December 23, 2008 at 8:49 PM
What's a good tach source? I have everything installed, using a PLJX. I set it for passlock 2 and programmed it but the remote start is still not working right. It tries to start but immediately dies. I've tried the white wire on the coil, the BROWN / white crankshaft positioning wire (from a suggestion on another topic in our site), and a non-common color fuel injector wire (grey seemed to be a common color so I used a black wire on one of the injectors). I "taught" it the tach too but it does not want to remote start.

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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 23, 2008 at 9:11 PM
The problem is probably not tach, though white or PURPLE / white at the ignition module should work as a source.

The jumper on the PLJX needs to be set for Passlock I, which your Grand Am is equipped with.

Also the violet/white bulb test output wire from the PLJX needs to be connected to the car if you haven't done so yet.

Edit: I just looked back at earlier posts and noticed the reference to Passlock I having a visible resistor in the key.
This is incorrect - Passkey I/II(aka VATS) has keys with the visible resistor. Passlock I, like Passlock II, uses plain metal keys.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: December 23, 2008 at 9:29 PM

I'll try it again as PL1. Initially I was doing this but did not have any success. An aquaintance at a local stereo shop who does alarms all the time told me that the car is PL2. I also found another spot online noting the differences in the keys with the keys for PL2 not having any chips in them, as is the case with this car key. I'll re-do it tomorrow for PL1 and try it again. I will also check that PURPLE / white at the ignition mod. There's a harness plugging into a "cover" that goes over the coils and connects to the spark plugs. The cover has both the white and PURPLE / white wires in it. I'll try to post my results tomorrow. Thanks for the correction about the PL  :)

Oh--is there a need to connect the "keysense" wire on the PLJX (green, I think)? The installer I mentioned, who told me it was a PL2, also told me that the wire did not need to be connected.



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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 23, 2008 at 9:49 PM
Confusion about Passlock I is fairly common, and understandably so since it was only on 5 GM cars, ever('95-99 Cavalier and Sunfire, '96-'98 Grand Am, Achieva, and Skylark).

I don't think keysense would be a problem. Couldn't hurt though if you're wiring near the harness anyway.

You've got the correct harness there for the ignition module; I've used either color for tach on the 2.4 and Ecotec engines and it's worked well.

Stupid question, but you are doing the programming procedure for the PLJX? It's not self-learning like the 555L.



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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: Fosgate3
Date Posted: December 24, 2008 at 7:07 AM

I'm doing the programming procedure as in I'm holding down the program button till the light flashes and then releasing it.

I tried a 555L on the car and did not have any success at all. I thought the module may have been bad so I got the PLJX.



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i think a wire's loose somewhere...




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 24, 2008 at 4:42 PM
Hmm...that sounds like the PLJX is learning the R-code properly. And you said the car would do a valet take-over properly?

I'd recheck the wiring between the Ungo and the PLJX - if it's getting good ignition and constant, maybe try jumping the brown GWR input to ground?

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two





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