Print Page | Close Window

’04 g35, viper 771xv

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109096
Printed Date: May 13, 2024 at 5:54 AM


Topic: ’04 g35, viper 771xv

Posted By: w8lifter21
Subject: ’04 g35, viper 771xv
Date Posted: November 20, 2008 at 8:25 PM

I want to use aux channels 5/6 on the remote to roll the windows up/down, and they supply 200mA outputs.  Is this enought to trigger the lock/unlock wires to make the windows opperate or will I need to use relays?  Wasn't sure if I needed them if I was tagging the wire at the switch.  I assume I should also diode isolate the ch 5/6 wires or is it not necessary?

For those unfamiliar with Nissan/Infinity, DirectTechs says an extended pulse/trigger on the lock wires will make the windows go up and down.



-------------
Refined Performance Motorsports



Replies:

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: November 20, 2008 at 8:41 PM
No relays or diodes needed.




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 20, 2008 at 10:04 PM
No relays or diodes needed.

You must get the lock and unlock wires inside the driver's door. There are empty pins at the BCM inside the car, and you can add wires there and do the doorlocks, but it won't control the windows.

I like to make the connection right at the back of the power window switch. That way, if the connection ever should fail, you can just pry the window switch out to make the repair, instead of taking the whole door apart again.

Also, keep in mind that the window controls don't work when the ignition is on, or for 45 seconds after the ignition is turned off. (If you turn off the ignition and then open one of the doors, the 45-second delay is bypassed.)




Posted By: w8lifter21
Date Posted: November 21, 2008 at 12:14 PM
Thanks for the info all. Just needed a little confirmation :).

-------------
Refined Performance Motorsports




Posted By: w8lifter21
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 4:45 PM

I followed Audiovox and direct techs, went to a coil pack and did not use the black, or the WHITE/ blue wire.  That only left the yellow/red wire.  I get in the car, fire it up, hold the button until the LED/parking lights come on, let go, tach should be learned.  I let the remote start do its 3 attempts to start, it goes all the way to kicking the dash lights on, but will not crank.  I run the shut down diagnostics, and it comes up with option 3, low or no RPM signal. 

Do the door triggers need to be hooked up for tach to learn properly?  I didn't think they did, but I know the weren't hooked up at the time I was trying this.  Should I maybe try an uncommon wire on a fuel injector?



-------------
Refined Performance Motorsports




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 7:45 PM

What type of voltage are you getting from the wire you tapped into?

How are you bypassing the transponder, are you sure it is working?  Some vehicles will not allow the starter to crank unless it sees a valid transponder.

I am fairly certain that tach programming does not require a door being open, however simply grounding the door trigger temporarily during programming would eliminate that as being the problem.



-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 9:14 PM
Try temporarily switching to voltage sense, and see if the remote starter works.

Even if you prefer tach, voltage sensing is a great troubleshooting tool.

If you put it on voltage sense and it still doesn't work, something else is wrong with your install.





Print Page | Close Window