Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2005 nissan titan remote start trouble

Hello Everyone, I am installing a Valet Model 561R Remote start on my father in-laws 2005 Nissan Titan XE. Now this is the base model of the Titans. It has no power windows, no power locks, no keyless entry or anything like that. The other models come standard with all these things. I''ve been searching and searching and can't seem to get anywhere with this. I got the remote start working but having a little problem. When i hit the remote start button, it starts up but dies out right away. I know some models of the Titan come standard with an immobilizer but I thought the base model XE didn't. I cant find info anywhere on it. If I put the key to "On" position and start the remote starter, it comes on and stays on. Or if the car is running, I can hit the remote start and take the key out. I've tried leaving the key in the off and acc position but just dies out. I set the Tach setting and even tried using the voltage setting instead of the Tach setting without change. So can anyone out there shed some light on this, i'd hate to buy a bypass and not need it. Also my father in-law had a key made at the hardware store and its a regular key nothing special, and it works fine without the factory key being in the car. I'm going crazy and would love some answers if you have them. I'm looking for a hero.

I wasn't aware they made a Titan without an immobilizer, but if the hardware store key starts the engine, then it must not have one.

I'm going to guess that you've got the ignition wire reversed with one of the accessory wires.

Go right to the remote start brain with your test light or meter, and probe the heavy 6-pin harness.

The two red wires should have power all the time.

The solid pink wire should have power when you turn the key to Run, and maintain power when you turn the key to Start, too.

The purple (or is it green? i forget) should have power in Start only.

The pink/white and the orange.......they should both have power in Run, and both lose power in Start.

I've triple checked the wiring, although the pink/white wire says it goes to "programmable output for accessory or ignition", then when you look up under the notes for it, it says "Connect this wire to the second ignition or accessory wire in the vehicle". Well i don't have a 2nd ignition hookup so i put it to the purple 2nd accessory line. I have the 2 red power lines hooked up to the green 12 Volt line, Pink wire goes to the BLACK/ red ignition line, Purple to brown starter line, orange to the red accessory line. I have the neutral safety switch grounded off. I have the brake switch hooked up. the parking lights are hooked up and flash when the remote start is working. I thought maybe i was wrong about it not having an immobilizer but my father in-law just keeps saying that the hardware store key works fine so i can only assume it doesnt have one. I do have a second starter wire that is lt. green that doesnt get hook to anything on the remote start.

I really appreciate all your help!

is it possible i could have the 2 accessory wires switched up? maybe i should put the orange accessory wire to the purple 2nd accessory line and the pink/white wire to the red accessory line? would that do anything different?

did you program the remote to treat the pink/white wire like an accessory? I think its defaulted to act as an igintion. it may be that because that wire is not dropping out durring remote start it wont stay running. are there 2 start wires in that vehicle?

Jonathan

you have two starter wires in this vehicle the other one is light green (+) or blue/green(+) either one is starter two you have to energize one of these wires , with the same starter output wire from the remote starter module just double it and connect it to one of these wires otherwise the vehicle wont remote start

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triniforever

Agreed you have a second starter wire that is light green. You must add a relay to this wire to energize it during the crank cycle...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

do i just run a lead off of the purple wire of the remote start to the 2nd starter wire on the ignition harness which is lt. green. Right now the purple wire is on the brown starter wire and i don't have anything on the lt. green.

the purple wire is for (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT

it also has this connection for a 4 Pin Satellite Harness which I do not have hooked up. The options are as follows:

Blue-- Status Output

Pink-- Ignition Trigger

Purple-- Starter Trigger

Orange-- Accessory Trigger

Does my 2nd starter get hooked to any of these? or if I need to install some sort of relay as mentioned above, how do I go about doing so? where can I get it and what does it look like? what is it called? etc.

Thanks so much for your responses!

yes just run a lead off the purple wire and attach to the second starter green wire

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triniforever

are you still there?!?! did it work?! let me know!!!

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triniforever

i will try it today when i have the car. i will let you know this evening, thanks. i hope it works, ill be your new best friend

triniforever wrote:

yes just run a lead off the purple wire and attach to the second starter green wire

thats a BAD idead dude. it may "work" but its not the correct way to install. you must use a relay so that the 2 circuits in the ignition switch stay separate. they are seperate circuits from the factory. thats why if you only tie into 1 of the wires the other one doesnt get energized, it is a seperate circuit. if this fella does what you are saying, the 2 circuits will become 1 circuit because voltage will flow between the added wire connecting the two. something it was not meant to do. if you always install this way and you are a professional installer, i would keep that you do this to yourself, and i certainly would not come on to a public forum and suggest to others to do it that way.

mr. tooth decay, Mike M2 is telling you the correct way to fix your problem. please do it the way he is saying. if you are not sure how or what he means, just ask. lots of guys will explain it and even put up diagrams to show you.

i will definately put a relay now after your great explanation. where can i get a relay? what kind of relay is it? is there a specific type or brand i could use? im just not familiar with what i should be looking for, thanks

you can use the little 4 wire connector that came with the remote start to get your negative tirgger. the 4 wires should be your

- while remotestart wire (blue)

- 2nd accessory wire (orange)

- 2nd ignition wire (pink)

- 2nd start wire (purple)

you can use the purple wire to trigger a relay to power up your second start wire.

Jonathan

Look at this link,,,

https://www.repairconnector.com/index.cfm/fa/items.main/parentcat/21440/subcatid/0/id/257128

This is what you need and you can get them at any stereo shop. Be sure to get the connector also, not just the relay. There will be numbers next to each pin. You will see them only when the relay is unplugged. Wire as follows...

85 to 12volts+

86 to the thin purple wire on your RS

30 to 12volts+

87 to the second starter wire in the truck

87a no connection

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

ckeeler wrote:

triniforever wrote:

yes just run a lead off the purple wire and attach to the second starter green wire

thats a BAD idead dude. it may "work" but its not the correct way to install. you must use a relay so that the 2 circuits in the ignition switch stay separate. they are seperate circuits from the factory. thats why if you only tie into 1 of the wires the other one doesnt get energized, it is a seperate circuit. if this fella does what you are saying, the 2 circuits will become 1 circuit because voltage will flow between the added wire connecting the two. something it was not meant to do. if you always install this way and you are a professional installer, i would keep that you do this to yourself, and i certainly would not come on to a public forum and suggest to others to do it that way.
ditto on that, ckeeler. triniforever is making us trinis look bad,

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

ckeeler wrote:

triniforever wrote:

yes just run a lead off the purple wire and attach to the second starter green wire

thats a BAD idead dude. it may "work" but its not the correct way to install. you must use a relay so that the 2 circuits in the ignition switch stay separate. they are seperate circuits from the factory. thats why if you only tie into 1 of the wires the other one doesnt get energized, it is a seperate circuit. if this fella does what you are saying, the 2 circuits will become 1 circuit because voltage will flow between the added wire connecting the two. something it was not meant to do. if you always install this way and you are a professional installer, i would keep that you do this to yourself, and i certainly would not come on to a public forum and suggest to others to do it that way.
mr. tooth decay, Mike M2 is telling you the correct way to fix your problem. please do it the way he is saying. if you are not sure how or what he means, just ask. lots of guys will explain it and even put up diagrams to show you.

I sounded kinda like an a-hole. i wasnt trying to rag on you triniforever, i was just trying to really emphasize the importance of doing it correctly so that he wont have problems later.

i know this is way off the subject but.......whats the weather like right now t&t?

Ugh...i'm not sure i really want to know. Here it's snowing and 25 degress, blowing wind, winter sucks....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

Ugh...i'm not sure i really want to know. Here it's snowing and 25 degress, blowing wind, winter sucks....

holy crap! yea i think you would hate it to even hear that its been 60-65 degrees here. somtimes im amazed i install as many remote starts as i do being that we dont really get that cold. i havnt had one morning yet this year where i had frost on my windshield.

ok got the relay, before i hooked it up, tried the remote start to make sure it was in the same shape i left it (starting then shutting off) I noticed that the antenna wire was off so i plugged that back in, went to start it, then the r/s clicked like it was gonna turn on, the dash/parking light/gauges turned on like normal, then shuts off and wont stay on to even engage the starter. it just does this over and over, wont stay on for more than a second. so i hooked the relay up and can't even try it. what could be going on. I havent even touched this thing for a few days. all the wires appear to still be connected and fuses are good, i have over 12 volts at my 2 12 volt line, i have 12 volts at my 2 accessory lines when the power is on, 12 volts at ignition line and when i engage the starter, line reads the voltage, where am i messing up?

when i hit the button on the r/s, the dash lights etc come on for a second, then shut off, and i can hear the fuel pump engage a run for a few soconds also, any ideas please

Take the key and set it in the igntion switch without turning it on. Will it start?

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

no, i tried doing it in the off position, acc position and on position and nothing on any of them. it bugs me out cause just yesterday i would r/s start it and it would fire up but stall out so i was told i needed to add a relay to the 2nd starter wire and before i even touched it, i tried to start it and it started doing this

anyone have any ideas?

What do you mean by a second? Is it coming on for a quick fraction of a second? If so, check the brake wire for 12volts. Is it coming on for a few seconds like it will start then just doesn't crank? Check the main connections at the ignition switch. Also check power on both power wires including fuses....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

ok i have 12 volts at both the red lines, when i hit the remote start button it stays over the 12 volts . when i check my first and second accessory lines, then try to remote start it, it jumps to maybe 8 volts but everything shuts off before it can reach 12 volts. i press the remote start button and the r/s clicks normally then the dash/parking lights come on as if it was going to start, then the gauge lights come on as normal, but they stay on only for literally a second then the whole thing shuts down. ill check the brake line right now

in addition to my above post, all that stuff happens normally, then when the gauge lights come on, usually its for 2 or 3 seconds before the starter engages but it doesnt make it that long, as soon as the gauge lights come on, it shuts off

also i failed to mention when i do the diagnostics, it comes back for code six, which is (+/- Shutdown)

ok got somewhere new, my brake switch wire wasnt making contact, solved the problem, but im back to square one now, which is better than the negative one i was at. The truck starts with the remote start and runs for maybe a second or 2 then dies out. sometimes if i try to start it 5 or 6 times it will stay running but not everytime, only after a few tries, ive relearned the tach settings but no change

oh and ive got that relay hooked up for the 2nd starter wire, and i made a better connection with the tach wire, i just cant seem to figure this thing out. every few tries it will start up and stay running. wierdest thing ever. please help

Did you check the hood pin and the neutral safety switch wires ?

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WELL?

unfortunatly with it strating every so often it makes it harder to diagnose. the only suggestions I can think of is to go back and make sure all your connections are solid ones and that they are behaving like they should when remotestarted. also make sure the remote start is programmed for tach mode. I know that the 561r's can be a pain in the ass to program I usualy spam the hell out of the remote. as in if tach is option 2 I press the program button 2 times hold on 3 then hit the left button on the remote like 9 times (i dont look at the led.)

Jonathan

the hood pin isnt hooked up and the neutral safety switch is grounded because the truck wont start outside of drive or neutral anyway. All connections are solid and i have learned the tach a dozen times, but i will tryi it the way you do it. ill see what i can find out, let me know if you come across something else

Chances are the tach is the issue. If it were practically any other problam it would not start every few shots. What are you connected to for tach?

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Keep in mind that the way I explained is how to make sure the remotestart is in tach mode as opposed to voltage mode. To have the remote start learn tach start up the truck wait a few seconds then hold down the programming button for a few seconds. If the parking lights flash then it learned tach. If the lights don’t flash when you release the button they you have the wrong wire.

One way to check if tach is the problem is you can set the remote start to voltage mode and change the crank time to 1 second. It if starts and stays running you know that your remote start was having a problem with the tach. You can either try to reprogram tach again or find the tach wire somewhere else.

Jonathan

lostissues wrote:

Keep in mind that the way I explained is how to make sure the remotestart is in tach mode as opposed to voltage mode. To have the remote start learn tach start up the truck wait a few seconds then hold down the programming button for a few seconds **EDIT** then release programming button **EDIT DONE**. If the parking lights flash then it learned tach. If the lights don’t flash when you release the button then you have the wrong wire.
One way to check if tach is the problem is you can set the remote start to voltage mode and change the crank time to 1 second. It if starts and stays running you know that your remote start was having a problem with the tach. You can either try to reprogram tach again or find the tach wire somewhere else.
Jonathan

also if the hood pin or neutral safty wire were hooked up incorrectly the remote start would not even attempt to start. it would assume either the hood is open or the car is not in neutral and would not try to start at all

when i learn the tach, i start it up and within the first 5 seconds i press the learn button and hold it until the red l.e.d. comes on then release, the parking lights flash. for the tach wire i have it ran to the engine bay, on each sparkplug theres its little ignition coils at each one, and it says to hook it up NOT to the WHITE/ blue or black wire. so i hooked it up to the 3rd wire. When i do the shutdown diagnostics which tells you the reason for the last shutdown, it come back everytime to:

Four---- Transmitter Shutdown (or optional push-button)

I do not have an optional push button installed and have not touched the remote since i tried to start it. Im stumped, but my tach wire has a really good connection, I've redone it twice and im sure its good, maybe i should try a different ignition coil, would it matter?

success!!! although i had the right tach wire and my connection was good, i changed the remote start over to voltage sense and it works like a beautiful dream, starts up and runs perfectly, thanks for all you help and i will now enjoy a working remote start!!!!

mr. tooth decay wrote:

success!!! although i had the right tach wire and my connection was good, i changed the remote start over to voltage sense and it works like a beautiful dream, starts up and runs perfectly, thanks for all you help and i will now enjoy a working remote start!!!!

Awesome to hear you got it working. you may sometime down the road try to hook up to another tach source, I have had some cars when the remstart is set to voltage and the weather is really cold, it takes a little longer to catch when cranking and thus the remote start just misses cranking long enough. having the right tach wire will prevent that situation. but I have hooked up many cars set to voltage with 1 second crank time and they are all fine. so just see how it goes.

Jonathan