first alarm/rs compustar, 05 escape

I used to post here a while ago about audio systems but have forgotten my login since then because of work. So I consider myself new again. I post for some pre-installation pointers on a Ford Escape specialty forums but I don't think the technical competence on there is too high I am about to install my 2w900fm on my '05 Ford Escape am I kinda sketchy on how this will go. I've read a few different threads on people installing Viper and DEI systems on their Escapes, but I wanted to make sure I had everything beforehand for my install.

1) From what it seems, I will only need a 1000-ohm diode to get my keyless entry to function correctly since it uses a 'vacuum' systems (I think). Is this the only thing I will need for my system?

2) CN4- #4 and #5 will be tied together with the diode on the #5 (Blu/Blk) both connecting to my cars(Pnk/Wht) wire, correct?

*I linked the diagrams above*

Sorry, I meant to put 1000-ohm resistor, not diode. Also meant to say "I POSTED for some pointers on the other forums..."
My bad.

I swear you guys are useless. Well, for any new guys out there attempting to do a remote-start/alarm install... here is my walk through and tips, feel free to PM me for help. I will try to help and not give a "My advice is to skip it..." or "don't mess with that..." type of answer. :

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My car:
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-'05 Escape XLT 4x4 Automatic. I don't know about differences in builds, years, or transmissions compatibility, all I know is what I have...

Alarm Unit:
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-Compustar 2W900FMR-2 (CM3000 brain)


Additional items needed:
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-screw DEI's expensive crap, google "PKUF2" get buy that $7 part off ebay. If you insist on DEI, "1100f" is the unit u need, but I have not tested it or used it. I bought the wrong damn 555/556 DEI bypass unit and wondered why I couldnt get the damn thing to program as a 'key' for my Escape. I believe the '01-'04's need a different PATS bypass unit, the '05/'06 including hybrids use the PKUF2.

-(2) Diodes, I think they'll be like 3w or 5w. (for door LOCK and UNLOCK)
-(1) 1k (1000) ohm resistor (for door LOCK)
*shown in pic above, sitting on plain white side of the box*

-papers/schematics (google it) Compustar MASTER Manual (best manual if you buy Compustar)

- lots of extra wire SMALL gauge wire
- a little extra wire 12awg wire (for power wires)
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Well, I don't think all that "SJB, conn. C, pin 19" crap is helpful since there is no way to see the back of the wires looking at the pins. I just look at what the wire colors were and found them on the DRIVERS SIDE under the carpet, by the pedals, near the center console aread (see pic below). The pic where the harness plugs into the fusebox was taken from the changeholder thing on the center console where the bottom cigarette plug is.

Install the Alarm part first. Making sure that works first will make the Remote-Start part faster.

NOTES:
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-My alarm unit had NEGATIVE INPUTS for lock/unlock so no 'Relay-Wiring' is needed to reverse the polarity, but a 1000ohm resistor is. The current runs into the alarm systems, so the diode tip has to face the unit or no connection will pass.

-Since there is only one wire used for lock/unlock, you have to connect both wires AFTER the diodes. So the connection should look this:

[       ]---Unlock Wire---<Diode-------------v
[UNIT]//////////////////////////////////////X=---Pink Wire---[Car]
[       ]---Lock Wire---<Diode---1K ohm---^



That was me wiring up the LOCK wire. Once you do the UNLOCK you just connect them at the end, then connect to the pink wire.

If your floor board looks like this once you think your done, your doing something right probably.





NOTES:
-If you have a 'Dome Light' output, you may need to tie it into the 'Door Input' wire, for factory security. I'm still troubleshooting little quirks with the factory re-arming, door sensing w/ courtesy lights, etc. My alarm will randomly go off saying that the door is open although they are not. I will update on this as soon as I find the exact way it should be wired.

Once the doors lock and unlock fine, you can start on the remote-start part.

-Find the ignition harness behind the tumbler. Get to it by taking off the bottom plastic panel that shows you the metal cross-member that has two 8mm or 7mm screws holding them in. Take it off, then get a flat head screwdriver to pry off the BOTTOM steering column shroud, the top one can stay. Now find that harness (shown below) and correlate the wire colors w/ the schematics.



***Before installing the PKUF2 (key bypass unit) test the remote start to see if your ACC and IGNITON come on, along w/ blinking parking lights if it's in your units process for turning on. If all goes well, everything will turn on, then the 'THEFT' light will blink repeatedly.***

-Install the bypass unit. Your remote-start unit should have a 'Status/Bypass' grounding input wire. This is where the bypass unit's ground wire should be connected to. On my unit, it only grounds a few seconds before remote start to give the impression that a key is there.

-I wrote down the colors for TX(+) and RX(-) wires needed for the bypass, but I lost it. The diagram below shows which wires are used.



I had to try the programming part about 2-3 times before I actually got it to work and pick up. I was so exited when the stupid THEFT light didnt blink.

*TACH WIRE* I had a tach sensing wire I had to tie into a ignition coil, so I used Cylinder#5's (front middle cylinder) green wire.

After all was well and good find a good mounting place and cut the rest of the wires u don't need. Your not supposed to cut them incase u need them later, but my unit had so many damn options, the extra wire bundles took up more space than the unit itself.

I zip-tied my unit to some wiring looms around the Drivers Left kick panel. You can see the brake pedal and the styrofoam foot rest supporter.





There's more important crap to put but it's 3:30am and I'm tired.

If this is your first system install, then why are you doing a walkthrough? I'd worry that others would make the same mistakes you are. For instance, your wiring looks atrocious. Now don't take too much offense to that as my first alarm looked like a rats nest too. But I would hate for others to think that was all right. Also, why would you trust a $7 bypass module you purchased from Ebay to interface with your factory computer? I'd personally want something more reliable that won't have the possibility of leaving me stranded. We use Fortin and Idatalink modules at work.

Also, you really should use a relay for your door locks. This will give you a solid ground source to run through the resistor rather than a low current source.

Indeed the wires looked bad. But I forgot to take pictures at the very end once I cut the ones not used and cleaned the others w/ wire look and zip ties. I copied and pasted this write up from another forum because there were none for the Escapes. I got no help out there from Escape specialist OR 12v specialist with no other How-to's. I was aggravated most of the time during this install, so the only time I took pics (useful pics) was when I was taking a lunch break or something.

As for the cheap module this is a good point, but again I was so aggravated the first time with buying the wrong module (that DEI told me to buy) that I wanted to buy something cheap the next time incase that was wrong too.

Your the first person to call me out on this forum (the others forums still have no responses) so props for that!

I don't install remote installs for a living, or even a hobby... I installed my first one on my first automatic car. I was really looking for some good pointers beforehand since seeing all those wiring harness and connectors scared the f**k outta me. I had never worked with resistors or diodes since most of my audio installs w/ LEDs and fans just use a straight hot wire.

Anyway, I do plan to take all the panels out again and take more pictures w/ a more OFFICIAL writeup. Plus a lot of the wire colors were wrong from the wiring schematics off this site... I plan to update those for my year car (audio side only).