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07 chrysler 300, parking lights

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109229
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 7:56 AM


Topic: 07 chrysler 300, parking lights

Posted By: mrkastro
Subject: 07 chrysler 300, parking lights
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 10:27 AM

hi guys, i'm working on a 07 chrysler 300 and need to isolate the parking lights switch, because there is a rest resistance on the wire, so must use a
relay to isolate from the switch. and it is a negative trigger. can someone post a diagram for this?

also, i dont understand why there is a need to add relays for the power lock and unlock. can you clarify this?




Replies:

Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 10:38 AM

posted_image

You need to add relays for the locks because they operate off of high current ground.





Posted By: mrkastro
Date Posted: November 26, 2008 at 7:34 PM

thanks for the reply.

now, i used this diagram above, but i couldn't get the lights to flash. the thing is i need a 1670ohm resistance. im connecting the resistors on 87. is this right? 

i got the locks working fine with the relays, (i also tried without relays, and no luck).





Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 27, 2008 at 3:09 AM
put it on 87, when you do also run a seperate groung wire to 86 so its not connected to 87. that way 86 does not get resisted




Posted By: mrkastro
Date Posted: November 28, 2008 at 12:29 PM

hello there.

im working on this car, and i cant get the parking lights to work. im using 1 relay to isolate the switch, where:

85 ground, 86 lead from alarm, 87 ground with 1670 ohm resistor, 87a switch side, 30 vehicle side.

 what could be wrong on this scenario? 

also, the trunk hatch sensor (not the trunk release) pin rests + but when the trunk is open it goes -

can i connect this together with the door triggers(witch have a neutral rest), and just add a diode??  thanks.





Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 28, 2008 at 12:34 PM

for your first question, do you have a DMM? and for your second yes that is fine, and you will need to add the diode.

on chryslers the other way it can be done it to add a resistor of the right value right to the wire and go straight to a ground without isolating it. you first need to find the reisitance you'll need.





Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 28, 2008 at 12:45 PM

On that diagram you might want (need) to isolate the grounds. The ground on 87 with the resistor.

Either that or connect the ground for 86 IN FRONT of the resistor.



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Posted By: mrkastro
Date Posted: November 28, 2008 at 12:51 PM

yes i have a multi meter. have a 1k and 680 resistors in series with they read 1647 ish. im on the right wire, bcoz i split the wires and the swtich doesnt work.

i tried to send ground direct to the vehicle side with resistor just to see if they come up-- nothing. maybe i need to increase a little the value for resistors?





Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 28, 2008 at 12:52 PM

ckeeler wrote:

put it on 87, when you do also run a seperate groung wire to 86 so its not connected to 87. that way 86 does not get resisted

i already suggested that. i think if he does it the other way he might have more luck. what do you think KarTune Man?





Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 28, 2008 at 12:58 PM
mrkastro wrote:

yes i have a multi meter. have a 1k and 680 resistors in series with they read 1647 ish. im on the right wire, bcoz i split the wires and the swtich doesnt work.

i tried to send ground direct to the vehicle side with resistor just to see if they come up-- nothing. maybe i need to increase a little the value for resistors?


 

you can go directly to ground but it will be a different value resistor than the 1680 because the switch rests at a certain amount already.

you need a resistor pot. connect one end to ground and the other to the light wire(put it back together). turn the pot until the lights come on. then remove the pot and measure it with your DMM. use that value and make a fixed resistor and wire in a relay to change the parklight output to negative and just send it directly to the parklight wire. no need to cut it and isolate it. this way sometimes is a better way to go. in your case i guess it will be.





Posted By: yunginstaller
Date Posted: November 29, 2008 at 9:45 AM
Hook up positive from parking lights to 86, ground 85 and 87, and the wire coming off 30 goes to the parking lights wire with 2k ohm resistor inline.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 29, 2008 at 12:38 PM

yunginstaller wrote:

Hook up positive from parking lights to 86, ground 85 and 87, and the wire coming off 30 goes to the parking lights wire with 2k ohm resistor inline.

This was my next suggestion....clean squelched ground.....posted_image



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Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 30, 2008 at 5:51 PM
Or just use positive parking light trigger, passenger kick, WHITE/ purple. You can pick up the constant hot there too, red 10ga wire if I remember correctly.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.





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