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remote starter 2008 caravan

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109241
Printed Date: May 13, 2025 at 5:05 AM


Topic: remote starter 2008 caravan

Posted By: sjsybesma
Subject: remote starter 2008 caravan
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 5:20 PM

We Installed a AutoStart remote starter in a caravan today, using a idatalink bypass, soldered wires to the ignition, everything went great and smooth. Went to program it, turned key forward, heard a ding, have no dash lights, no anything, it wont start the car manually even. i saw one blog someone had something identical. what am i missing. where do i go from here? any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks



Replies:

Posted By: mobilefx
Date Posted: November 25, 2008 at 10:18 PM

i would try to take the wires off the circuit board and resolder.. the likely culprit is that 2 leads or contacts may be touching or could be in the wrong order..  also.. i have only done 2 of those but i am goin to break the outside of that damn housing on the next one.. rather than risk prying apart the circuit board.. i trust my own ability, i dont trust the circuit boards and factory parts.. and as the owner i get to have that not so fun talk w/ the customer.   those cars seem very complex and goofy,  but what i mostly understand is that those leads you solder on are essentially traditional wires like a reg cylinder.  not a hundred percent.. but in theory you can just look at the grooves and contact plungers in the cylinder and its still basic concept.  anyways i would undo your connections.. carefully check all the circuit traces and solder points.. verify the car starts w' key.. take a breath and dive back in..  hope its that simple..

chris.    

hey did check my post on the vw pasat.  its our first one and my head installer ran out of time and is gone for holidays.  any knowledge would be helpful.

chris



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MOBILE F/X




Posted By: sjsybesma
Date Posted: November 26, 2008 at 8:19 AM
we haven't done a vw pasat, we are in a mostly domestic vehicle area in iowa. i have triple checked all the wiring. the key sends out the 12 volt signal when its turned forward, and so forth, just nothing on the vehicle takes it from there? very confusing.




Posted By: mobilefx
Date Posted: November 26, 2008 at 9:54 AM

can you get it to crank on remote start.. also i dont know if this is any issue in your case, but those new chryslers are really goofy in this respect.  the dash lights or anything wont even come on if it doesn't see a good transponder key.   i would make sure you dont have an module or other key confusing the ignition..  again i would recommend unsoldering and inspecting the ign contacts and traces..just to deal w/ a 100% stock ignition and get the car to start so you feel good about that part.  i dont even want to bring this up.. but i hope you didn't crack or break a trace on that circuit board.  it is a bad deal.

hope u get it man



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MOBILE F/X




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 27, 2008 at 8:14 AM
The first one I did, I overheated the solder points on the circuit board, and damaged the internal switches, but I did manange to repair them eventually.

First, unplug the module from the car to rule that out, and try starting the car.

Then, I would put a circuit tester to the four wires you soldered......one should be ground, another is negative keysense, and then ignition and accessory.

If all of those four wires don't test properly, pull the switch out of the car, take the housing apart, then plug it back into the car.

You'll see the nine solder points there on the board, underneath the switches. The three switches are all built the same, single-pole, double-throw momentary switches.

The ignition and accessory switches, if you look at the three prongs for each switch....... one side should have constant power, the middle part I forget what that tests as, and then the other side should show power when you push the button with your finger.

If you get constant power on one side, but not switched power on the other, then you've damaged the switch.

I managed to very carefully take the rubber cover off the switch, disassemble it, and re-bend the parts that got bent by the excessive heat.





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