canmax400dei, 2004 acura tl
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109277
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 11:39 PM
Topic: canmax400dei, 2004 acura tl
Posted By: joebubba
Subject: canmax400dei, 2004 acura tl
Date Posted: November 27, 2008 at 12:25 PM
OK, I'm a bit confused...or maybe I understand this better than I think (fat chance  ).
I have a 2004 Acura TL (Manual Transmission). I plan to purchase and install myself a Viper 5901, Clifford 50.7x, or Python 991 with the new CANMAX400DEI D2D plug in module. I also will purchase the XK loader to flash the correct firmware to the CANMAX
CANMAX400DEI install manual
Viper 5901 install manual
After reading both manuals, I'm still unclear on what wires from the RS/Alarm module still need to be connected if using D2D between the CANMAX and the Viper (or Clifford or Python). Here's what I think needs to be connected (in addition to the 4 wires from the CANMAX to the car):
H1/H2 12-v constant
H1/H3 Siren output
H1/H5 Chassis Ground
H2/H8 Horn Honk output (???)
any aux input that I want added (i.e. anti-jack/tilt)
What else? Is it that simple? What am I missing? What about tac input? Will the CANMAX get that from the bus and send it to the unit?
Next question:
What about programming? Both units need to be programmed, which do I do first?
Anything else that I'm missing?
Thanks!
Replies:
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: November 30, 2008 at 8:42 AM
Correction, that's ab Acura TL. Anyone?
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 07, 2008 at 9:27 AM
Just purchased a Clifford Matrix 50.7x for my 2004 Acura TL (manual transmission). I'm thinking about using the new canmax400dei for my bypass/door lock interface modul. I like the features of the canmax400dei and the fact that it plugs into the 50.7x.
Has anyone used a canmax400dei or have any comments/reviews?
Thanks.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 9:27 PM
d2d is a 3pin wire if i remeber that goes from the rs or alarm unit to the bypass unit. in the d2d, it controls gwr (status output), power and ground. so it saves you a few mins. do not use data tach if you can avoid it. tach through databus connection never worked for me but some were sucessful for others. program the remotes to the brain then program the bypass. also make sure you unit is manual tranny compatable.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 10:15 AM
the CanMax needs the new XKLoader II or else the XKLINT adapter to program.... make sure you have this or you are buggered as far as programming goes....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 19, 2008 at 8:44 PM
kgerry wrote:
the CanMax needs the new XKLoader II or else the XKLINT adapter to program.... make sure you have this or you are buggered as far as programming goes....
From everything I've read, the regular XKLoader will work just fine.
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: March 08, 2009 at 2:25 PM
OK, the XKloader2 is $120 and the XKlint is only $25. I know the loader2 will flash the canmax while it's docked and I think the XKlint requires the canmax to be undocked.
What would be the advantage to spending an extra $100 to use the XKloader instead of the XKlint?
Thanks!
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: March 08, 2009 at 9:26 PM
tedmond wrote:
d2d is a 3pin wire if i remeber that goes from the rs or alarm unit to the bypass unit. in the d2d, it controls gwr (status output), power and ground. so it saves you a few mins.
It's actually a 4-wire link, but yes you are correct in it's previous design. However, due to patent licenses, that R&D has now gone to h*ll. It no longer integrates or operates as it was previously designed and does not save any time. At best, you lose time contacting support, to trouble shoot why it doesn't work as designed and stated in the manual. Then, only to be told the un-informed support, it never was designed that way. ------------- Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
Posted By: souljah972
Date Posted: March 25, 2009 at 5:04 PM
loneranger what do you mean R&D? what are you talking about? ------------- Live For The Music
Posted By: robertsc
Date Posted: March 25, 2009 at 8:50 PM
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 12:00 AM
Update: Clifford Matrix with canmax400dei flashed with latest firmware installed on 2004 Acura TL with manual transmission.
Alarm and door locks work fine.
I can activate MT mode, remove the key (car still running), close the door and then arm the alarm (engine shuts down and alarm and remote start are armed).
When I press the remote start button, the system activates (accessories come on) but the starter does not engage. I've double checked all of my heavy gauge wiring and it is all correct. All of the fuses are good. All of my connections are soldered. I even tried the remote start with my key in the ignition or near it to see if the bypass was not working. Still no starter engagement.
Any ideas?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 12:10 AM
What happens if you try to remote start it while holding the clutch pedal to the floor?
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 10:58 AM
yes, how did you bypass clutch??
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 7:23 PM
i am an idiot wrote:
What happens if you try to remote start it while holding the clutch pedal to the floor?
You're not an idiot, I am! Bingo, that was it. Remote start works fine with the clutch pushed in.
Kevin, I haven't bypassed the clutch. The install manual doesn't say a thing about clutch bypass and I blindly assumed clutch bypass was handled by the brain sending a signal through the B-can. I didn't even look at the TL's clutch wiring until now. It's a simple ground to the starter cutout relay coil, not a B-can signal!
So I guess I'll need to wire pin 3 (violet wire, 200mA negative starter output) of the 5-pin remote start aux output harness to the wire going from the clutch switch to the starter cutout relay coil?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 7:41 PM
I have no idea how the clutch switch works in that vehicle. All you have to do is duplicate it's action when it is pressed. There should only be one wire going to the switch. I do not know if it is grounded or open while depressed. You will have to check, or some of our hands on guys can help you more than I can.
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 7:44 PM
It's grounded when depressed. I'm pretty sure my idea will work....we'll know in an hour or so
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 7:52 PM
Let us know.
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 03, 2009 at 10:56 PM
Yep, that worked. Remote start works perfectly now. I'm a happy camper!
Thanks to everyone who replied!!
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: December 19, 2009 at 8:18 PM
I need to undock the canmax400dei from the brain to double check the light flash polarity fuse. Can I just pop it out and then back in without cutting the power to the brain? Or should I cut the power to the brain first?
If I cut power to the brain (and canmax), does it retain settings and will it remember the remote or will I have to reset?
Thanks
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: January 02, 2010 at 3:00 PM
Can anyone help me out on my docking/undocking question above? Thanks!
Posted By: joebubba
Date Posted: January 02, 2010 at 3:28 PM
Duh....Never mind. RTFM:
Reset Module
- Disconnect the module from any power source (undock the module from the system).
- Press and HOLD the integrated programming button (IPB).
- Connect the module to the power source (dock it again)
- Wait until the orange LED turns ON (should be 3 seconds)
- Release the integrated programming button (IPB).
- Reset is done.
Guess docking and undocking with power on is fine. It should retain settings while undocked, unless you use reset procedures above.
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