starter interupt, stinger 200 amp relay

depends on if its normally open or normally closed and if its continous duty or not. do you know the part/model number?

you want one normally closed. you need one with 4 terminals. 2 large ones for the power cable and 2 small ones. connect one small post to ignition power from in the ignition harness and the other small one to the negative ground when armed from the alarm (its usually orange). that way if the unit is armed and the lock cylinder gets turned, the ignition voltage will go to the solonoid and trigger it opening it up and preventing starting. if you wire it like this you dont need a continuous duty solonoid. any N/C solonoid will work.

P.S. starter solonoids are N/O so those wont work. you need one that is N/C

Atl_monte wrote:

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not sure of the actual part # as Im still at work, but assuming if this one wouldn't work for the application there are are actual relays that will work for this application? Maybe an solenoid from an older model Ford. Would it be best to wire it N/C or N/O? How would I wire it to an alarm with auto crank as the circuit would be complete during remote starting but other wise open while armed

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just read this again.

if your going to do this with a remote start you will have to interupt the small ignition wire to the solonoid with a standard relay during remote start. otherwise it wont start.

A Honda, Nissan or Toyota 4 Cylinder would possibly be OK with 200 amps of current.  But an 84 CuttDawg, probably going to need a little more current than that on a cold day.    But as CKeeler stated, you really need to use the low current wire that triggers the Solenoid mounted to the starter.

The coil of the solenoid is what makes it continuous.  A starter solenoid, if left energized for 30 seconds or so, it will begin to smoke.  I have no idea what current a starter solenoid is rated at, but I am pretty sure a GM starter will pull upwards of 300 amps of so.  The 200 amp solenoid will probably make it for a while.  I am just trying to figure out why he can't use the start wire at the Ignition switch.

Years ago, pac-audio.com manufactured 2 solenoids that were sold as a power shut off.  You had to have them on your competition vehicles to kill power to the rear of the car in case of fire.  They were known as a PAC-80  and a PAC-200.  The 80 was the same identical piece and a Standard Ignition S-55.  It looked similar to a Ford, mount on the fender solenoid.  Some people tried using the ford solenoid as a PAC-80.  That is how I know about the 30 seconds till smoke.  The PAC-80 was a constant duty device, the Ford solenoid, not so much.

i am an idiot wrote:

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The coil of the solenoid is what makes it continuous.  A starter solenoid, if left energized for 30 seconds or so, it will begin to smoke.  I have no idea what current a starter solenoid is rated at, but I am pretty sure a GM starter will pull upwards of 300 amps of so.  The 200 amp solenoid will probably make it for a while.  I am just trying to figure out why he can't use the start wire at the Ignition switch.

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