98 buick regal, alarm/remote start

I have been working on installing the Autopage RS-1000 alarm/remote start in my '98 Buick Regal, and have run into a few problems. I am currently trying to get the door lock, unlock to work. Here's a picture of the directions from Autopage:



As far as I know, the car has the "2 Step Door Unlock Wire Connection for Ground Switched Door Locks". I hooked the Autopage H10/14 Pink Wire up to the ORANGE / Black wire for the door unlock right before it connects to the computer. I also did the same with the Autopage H7 Green Wire to the RED / Black door unlock wire. The doors all lock and unlock, but they do not unlock in two stages. I am trying to figure out where the Autopage H7 Blue Wire is supposed to connect, and I think it's to a wire that goes to slot 86 in a relay behind the glove compartment that. When this relay is disconnected, the drivers door neither locks nor unlocks. Also, slots 87 and 85 on this relay read +12V on my multimeter. Can anyone tell me if this is in fact where the Autopage H7 Blue Wire is supposed to connect? Also, where is the wire I am supposed to cut?

Hopefully someone can answer this soon so that I can finish getting everything installed and get the car put back together. I'm sure I will have more questions as well, but this is most important right now.

Thanks!

Sorry, forgot to include this. Here's a closer view of the wiring I think I'm supposed to be doing:



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Sorry I continue to add additional posts, but I'm unable to edit my original one due to forum restrictions. I have a couple more questions.

My first is, does anyone know if Autopage and DEI alarms use the same connection for the LED indicator? The one that came with my alarm is blue which I think looks really tacky. I found a red LED on eBay that says it for DEI alarms. It looks exactly like the blue one that came with my alarm, only difference is the color of the LED (obviously) and the color of the wires. It looks like it may have the same connection but I can't really tell.

Also, I ordered the Passlock-SL2 bypass kit. It's supposed to hook up to the alarm via the AP Data Link. Will this also connect the alarm to the car's computer, reducing the number of physical connections I need to make? If so, does anyone know what I would still have to hook up, and what wouldn't need to be hooked up after adding the Passlock-SL2?

Sorry again that I keep posting. Hope to hear from someone soon, thanks!

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Ok, here's an update...I still desperately need help with the locks so I really hope someone can help me.

I ordered the DEI LED, turns out it's a different connection so I had to cut the wires and solder them to the AutoPage ones...no big deal.

I got the Passlock-SL2 bypass unit installed, and I am now able to remote start the car. I still have a couple questions though.

First of all, I was unable to locate the Neutral Safety Switch wire in my car. I ended up just grounding that connection on the alarm system, but I would rather find the safety switch if possible. I tried looking for a yellow wire going into the transmission as the diagram from here says, but couldn't find it. If someone could give me a more detailed location that would be great. If not, no big deal.

Secondly, I was unable to find the tach wire. I have the alarm programed with voltage checking rather than RPM, but sometimes it needs to crank it twice before it starts so I would rather use RPM checking. I tried looking for a white or PURPLE / white wire along the steering column as the diagrams have said but was unable to find it. Anyone know exactly where it is in my car?

Third, I was wondering if there is any way to have the rear defogger come on when the alarm is started. There is an additional accessory output on the alarm that I haven't connected, anyone know if it's possible to connect this to the rear defogger?

Fourth, currently my head-unit comes on when the car starts. Is there any way I can keep this from happening?

Lastly, I am still trying to get the drivers door to unlock the first time I press the button on the remote. I would like to do so without cutting any factory wires...is that possible? Does anyone know where the H10/14 Pink wire, and H7 Green and Blue wires should be connected? Currently all the doors lock when i press the lock button on the RS-1000 remote, but when I press unlock it only disarms the system. If I push it again within 3 seconds it unlocks all doors. I am trying to get it to unlock just the drivers door when pressed the first time.



I hope someone can help with at least some if not all of these problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The car won't start in gear even from the remote start without the neutral safety switch connection? I thought that's why had to connect it.

I read somewhere that the wire from the tach ends up running down the steering column. Should I look for it under the hood, or should I try to look behind the gauges?

Do you have any idea what I should be testing for, IE how that wire would change as far as voltage or resistance? Also, how would I then hook the alarm to it?

Looks like I'm going to have to try to figure out relays a lot more before I attempt to mess with the HU.

I would rather not cut any wires in case I have to use the factory remotes for some reason. If that's the only way I could get the door locks to work in two steps, I would rather just change how their connected so that all the doors unlock the first time the button is hit. So, if the only way to get the doors to unlock in two steps is to cut a wire that would result in changing the functionality of the factory remote, how could I reconnect the alarm to unlock in one step?

Thanks for all your help!

Sorry, I meant how I should be testing for the defogger.

I don't mean to question what you're telling me, but just to clarify, if I set it up with 2 stage unlock and cut whichever factory wire needs to be cut, the factory remotes will still unlock in two stages?

Thanks again.