2008 ford ranger, galaxy rs, ads-tb
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109561
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 3:23 PM
Topic: 2008 ford ranger, galaxy rs, ads-tb
Posted By: bigabe
Subject: 2008 ford ranger, galaxy rs, ads-tb
Date Posted: December 07, 2008 at 8:09 PM
Good day all, love the forums. Will contribute all I can after the amount of reading I've done.
Since this is long, heres the meat of this post:
As a total newb - how can I be sure this is PATS - other than attaching a relay seems to permanently ground it and doesn't let me start with a rapid-flashing anti-theft light? Even with key!
2nd newb question - I have no idea how to get my door locks to trigger with my new FOB. (I have factory RKE) I've tried a lot. My RS Manual
For starters (pun?), my starter is working so far...the usual, with a key in. I know this means my bypass isn't doing its job. Now, according to the XK04-PKFORD I originally bought, the 2007 had a 3C PATS system. Looking at the picture, it makes some sense. After several hours of trying to get my bypass to learn my key (1st key ->on, lights go off - repeat for 2nd, remote start, wait 2 minutes, then start) I tried almost every option and nothing ever happened with the LED, nor did it ever work without a key in the ignition.
So, I added the relay, as diagramed. Installed 4 times, just in case it was wiring/bad connections etc... and all that did was permanently set off PATS/Anti-theft light so I couldn't program/start or anything. Seemed like the relay wasn't throwing.
Anyways, I got upset, put my truck back together, called some shops and bought an idatalink ADS-TB today and had it flashed for my truck.
I will be trying this tomorrow. Except, teh documents actually have 2008, only they say its a type E connector. I don't see this connection anywhere. From the cylinder, it goes to a little circuit board, whos wiring comes down to a large green connector under my dash with 4 pins. 1 Meters 12v (ign), 1 ground, and the other two seem to be some sort of TTL data, so I'm assuming its the PATS. It also comes straight out of the siemens circuit card under my key cyl.
As a total newb - how can I be sure this is PATS - other than attaching a relay seems to permanently ground it?
2nd newb question - I have no idea how to get my door locks to trigger, I've tried a lot. My RS Manual
I realize its a negative pulse that sets off my door, now, I'm unable to determine if I have a factory alarm (doubt it) but I do have the RKE, so there has to be somewhere (Violet/Gray and Gray / YELLOW I thought) to send a NEG pulse for my truck (RS does -pulse@500mA)
2-stage would be even better, as thats the factory default.
Lastly, just for advice. For working with the small wires under a dash (i.e. pats) w/out much slack, how do you guys make the connections? Still a cut/solder job, or do you use some sort a connector?
Im a brand-new military electronics technician, so I have the theory-schoolin' but not much hands on yet.
I'm still looking for all the help I can get on this one, I want my starter to be useful before my wife gets here this friday!
Replies:
Posted By: xplorin16
Date Posted: December 07, 2008 at 9:59 PM
I have a 2008 ranger, it does have pats. I bought a key off of ebay for 9 dollars shipped. When you have the new key the programming is as follows 1) crank with old key(#1) 2) take out key # 1 and crank with other old key(#2) 3) Take out key # 2 and insert new unprogrramed key, turn to crank, it will take about 3 seconds of the security light flashing and then presto its programemd. Once you have 3 keys i would go and buy the 556u its the old faithful and will work liek a champ and substantially cheaper than an xk04. Although the xk04 "should" work no problem after youve wired the relay in as per instructions on page 4. As for lock/inlock they should be ar your smart module in the pass kick along with door triggers, domelight supervision. Put your meter on dcv and put your red lead on 12v and your black lead on the colors to trigger the lock/unlock. Your meter should read 12v when locking or unlocking. If your rs is not putting out enough current to trigger you factory relays, which is should, you might want to explore the option of adding door lock relays or a 451m if you have the availability to one. if not wire up your relays as such 85- lock output from rs 86-12v 30-to fact lock wire 87- ground same as unlock just use another relay. Hope this helps good luck. If you unsuccesfully keep trying to program the xk04 you will lock yourself out of cranking for 20 min. ------------- Advanced MECP
Posted By: bigabe
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 2:17 PM
Ok, I'm trying the idatalink tonight. I just got an email back from the place I bought my XK04...supposedly it wasn't flashed despite me paying a $10 programming fee. That conversation went well. I want to know if its possible that the RS doesn't put out the ign voltage long enough to actually program the bypass? If this is the case, do I have to do a hotwire just for programming so it can actually hold long enough for the 3 second delay? As for the locks, again, I'm a newb - but I can't really see a way to run the wires that came with my modules all the way to the passenger-side kick. Is there no way of tapping off the wires coming under the dash through the door just to pulse along the same line that pulses when I push the button on the door? I realize that it would be easier to get my factory option of 2-stage locks by going straight from the RKE module (Im assumign thats what you're talking about with the "Smart" module). I mean, if someone could totally dumb this down for wiring my lock/unlock from module to connection for my truck specifically - because Im at a total loss. So far, I'm pretty confident its RS 3-pin connector (Green and Blue wires... Green->Violet/Gray and Blue->Gray / YELLOW) In my head that should work. I don't know how to tell, or where to put some sort of arm/disarm, or the actual door sensors themselves if needed. I can't wrap my brain around it. Cheers for the help, and sorry for being slow!
Posted By: bigabe
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 6:16 PM
Update. iDatalink worked beautifully first try.
2 hours of screwing around, metering, etc.... still absolutely nowhere near getting doors to work. Im tempted to put it back together and just carry 2 FOBS....except my obsession won't let me.
I cannot find a wire, anywhere, that changes voltage when I push the lock buttons (other than in the door itself, which I might even just run wire through teh door straight to the buttons) or the buttons on the RKE. The two listed on my wiring diagram DO NOT change at all. I even hooked up a Fluke 199C to start probing (thanks to Her Majesty - I love that this is "professional development" and I'm using a heated garage/nice tools courtesy of the canadian taxpayer)
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 8:57 PM
the lock wires might not change voltage if they rest at neutral, so try testing like this. set your meter to continuity and set it so that it beeps when it detects a closed circuit. then hook one lead onto any ground. the lock wires should be in the drivers kick panel unlock is violet with a gray stripe and lock is gray with a yellow stripe. hold the other lead on the wires you want to test and press the lock switch, if the wire changes state the meter will beep to let you know you have the right wire.
-------------
Posted By: bigabe
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 12:35 AM
So, the dashboard won this time.
After 6.5 hours completely ruined essentially trying to do a continuity, delta, or anything signification in an attempt to locate/use my door locks... nothing.
If someone has upload space, I have mulitple photos, I'll even make a photo-tutorial for a lot of this stuff, however, I still cannot get my power locks to open. Not even by jumping 12v or 500ma (pos or neg)-including in various pulses from a power supply!
I would like to show people what im talking about. And Yet... keyless entry and power locks still definitely work. Im thinking its from voodoo.
Everything else I hooked up tonight worked first try (or at least second), including relays.
Argh.
Posted By: tristanloftis
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 11:09 AM
my companion says the wires are in the DRIVER KICK PANEL they are both negatives lock is PURPLE / GREY pin 6 unlock is GRAY / YELLOW pin 5, having a galaxy remote start you should be able to hook your blue and green straight to them
Posted By: bigabe
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 1:15 PM
There are 2 harnesses ....one is a large blue one that only has wires coming into it with 5 wires (I believe, Im at work now). 2 are +12v const or ign, 2 are the PURPLE / GREY and GRAY / YELLOW, the connection does not work in there. The second harness is the one described (assumedly) as the drivers kick panel, and ABOVE pin 6 and pin 5 (top row from top left looking from drivers seat) are the two coloured wires mentioned. Again, the galaxy pulse, while definitely putting out a -500mA will not trigger the door lock or unlock. Not sure what is wrong with either the galaxy or the harness, but that combination has been tried, metered, tried with a constant supply, and still not working. Cheers for the reply. I'm completely lost and will try again on wednesday after work.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 6:26 PM
if it comes down to it you could try to interface with the switch directly. also (and this is a long shot) try looking for the old ford lock colors pink/green and pink / YELLOW. if they exist they will be near the drivers kick panel or along the running boards. if you find them test those wires. my guess would be that the plug with the wires that you say go nowhere are part of a factory security system that isnt installed which is why that harness isnt used
-------------
|