remote start, 2004 subaru wrx
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109585
Printed Date: July 12, 2025 at 10:44 AM
Topic: remote start, 2004 subaru wrx
Posted By: mtlman
Subject: remote start, 2004 subaru wrx
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 5:10 PM
i just got a remote start for one of my vehicles and everything is installed and works good except for the remote start function. it will not remote start the vehicle it just blinks the Diag. code which is seven which means the system does not detect a Tach singnal. all grounds are good and the Tach wire is connected to the proper wire right on the ECM. now i guess u can turn off this feature if u want with this system but even in Tach or Tachless mode it still flashes code seven. there is an Auto learn for the tach and when i do so the system verifys the procedure with parking light flashes but the antenna is also sopposed to flash as well and it does not.keep in mind the hood switch re-arm,dis-arm connections have not been made. i do notice the LED's on the antenna to blink very dim at all times, i dont know if that means anything the model of the RS system is an Ultra Start G series.the LED issue does seem like a ground issue but i checked all grounds and they are good(there are two) the car that it is installed in is a 2004 subaru wrx. like i said it just keeps giving me a daig code seven.evertime i start the vehicle normally i always get the blinking park lights to verify the auto Tach learn if that means anything as well. i dont have the hood switch hooked up at the moment but i dont think that will give me the prob im having now.
Replies:
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 6:42 PM
never hurts to check the ground. a faulty ground can arise numberous problems.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 8:01 PM
The hood pin missing has nothing to do with your tach issue...... but get it hooked up. Safety first! And tedski has a good point... Where exactly did you get your tach? wire color etc.... Astro has 3 potentials.... none are at an ECM. Look for a blue/green at a brown plug next to the main ign. harness connector. -------------
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 8:19 PM
Go here for an ECU wiring diagram:
ECU
You want to use a fuel injector wire at the ECU....located at the top of page 3 of the diagram I linked to. It tells you what plug, and what pin you will find the wire. If I remember correctly, the fuel injector wires are yellow with a stripe. It will read between 1 and 2.5 volts AC with the car at idle, and increase if you rev the engine.
On Subarus, if you use the wire commonly listed as tach on wiring diagrams it won't work with a lot of remote starters out there. I know Ultrastart units have trouble with Subaru "tach" wires.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 9:45 PM
i got to tach singnal from plug B134 at the ECU which is listed as Engine Speed. the manual does state to use this wire but i guess any waveform ACv wire could due. the wire color is a solid green and the RS is an ultrastart i have access to diagrams for all vehicles and the green wire looks like it does go through the Tach on the cluster and is listed as Engine Speed like i said before which is pin 23. thanks! ANYMORE INPUT WOULD BE GREAT!
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 9:48 PM
the LED's on the antenna blink dim most f the time sometimes they do get bright like when i do the Tach learn process and programing. are the LED's sopposed to be bright all the time? because that sounds like a bad ground but they are good,but im going to jump the ground right to the batt to check them again.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 10:15 PM
hey jworm! listen to this my diagrams say the injector wires in plug B136 if u look on the diagram itself it shows them on B135 and looking at your diagram it shows them on B137! HAHA., theres 4 plugs on the ECU and Subaru is horrible with there wiring diagrams and they do not show u in any way what plug is which and if u unplug the plugs there all the same except for one lol
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: December 08, 2008 at 10:54 PM
I have done at least a dozen WRX's and STI's from 2002-07. The ECU varies from year to year, and the WRX, STI and RS all have different ECU's. A lot of the guys on the Subaru forums bring their cars to me because I know the cars so well. I had an 02 WRX, and an 05 STI.
The ECU plugs may look very similar, but there are differences in pin count. Does your ECU have 4 or 5 plugs? This page will give you different diagrams to choose from. I would start with the 2004, then find the ECU diagram that has the correct number of plugs. You don't need to unplug any of the harnesses to find out the plug number, you can do it by comparing the pin count and positions. I have always had great luck finding the correct wires using the above page.
The green wire you are referring to has too high of a reading, and most remote starters won't learn the signal properly. If it does learn it, it will often overcrank the starter.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 4:57 AM
the ECU has four plugs on it. the RS system wont even Tach learn at the moment to the green wire that it is hooked up too the tach signal . i would of figured it would of auto learn it but like u said it prob would over crank.. i am Def going to try to hook into an injector wire like u said.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 3:23 PM
Ok so i tried a few things today. i reconnected the tach wire to an injector wire on the ECU which are all Pink and i even checked it with a DVOM while running and off and i got .8v(ac)running and 0v(ac) off. now that being said i also reconnected the hood pin wire and tried it out and it still does the same thing (not start with RS) it just flashes code seven! i rechecked all grounds with a test light and even put new crimp connectors on them i also checked all power connections with a DVOM and that was good as well. i reset the system and did the Tach learn again which it always verifys with the flashes but still no start wiht the RS????? i think i am now going crazy!
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 5:55 AM
anyone got any more ideas?
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 11:03 AM
why don't you do the following test ? Start the car with the key, wait till it auto learns the tach, then activate the idle mode, remove the key and see if it would take over ?
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 4:52 PM
so i did do idle mode test and when i start the vehicle and hold the button it just gives me 7 flashes for a code again, now after the flashes go away and i hold the button again i get three flashes and then i turn the key off and the car does not stay running. does anyone know the purpose of the ground while running wire?
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 5:10 PM
Are you sure the car is not in valet mode ? ground while running is usually used for bypass module.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 5:25 PM
i do not have a valet mode only a service mode which u can tell that its in becuase the LED's stay on. so should that ground while running be hooked up to anything? (this vehicle does not require a bypass module)
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 5:43 PM
No need to hook up if it doesn't have bypass unit. Did you wait until the auto tach learn had finished ( 3 park light flashes ) and then press the start button for 3 seconds ( activate the idle mode ) ? Park lights come on before you turn the key off ? If it still wouldn't stay running, next step try the tachless mode ( disconnect the tach wire ). Ok if tach source is changed, you will have to do a system reset. Other things you need to check : like the 2 12 v wires to the module, ignition, acc & starter wires are connected properly.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 6:04 PM
ok...the first time i tried it was after the system did the auto lean followed by 3 park light flashes and when i held it just blinked seven times(while car running) then i let go of the button and held it again for three seconds and the lights flashed again quickly then i turned the key to off and the car went off with it. in Tachless mode it does the same thing just flashes 7 times!. i know the 12v and the starter wires are good but i need the recheck the ignition wire.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 8:54 AM
this vehicle doesnt use a bypass module so ill leave that one disconnected i guess
Posted By: brettwhunter
Date Posted: December 27, 2008 at 6:27 PM
If you have found a solution to this problem please share. I am having the exactsame issue with an Ultra Start 1280 G11 XR, installed on a 2005 Chevy Malibu Classic utilizing a Directed Electronics PLJX bypass module(GM Passlock II).
It is just as you describe; everything works great except for the remote start. When attempting to remote start, I continually receive the error code of 7 flashes(tach lock, or can't detect tach signal). When attempting to reset the unit and relearn the tach (no matter if it's tach/tachless mode), I receive the same error code - 7 flashes. All of my connections are correct and soldered.
Are you working with the same Ultra Start Unit? If so, where did you purchase it? I am beginning to wonder if the unit I have is defective, at this point it would appear the only things we have in common are the symptoms and the units. I am trying to reach Ultra Start for tech support, but I am not having any luck. Any feedback would be welcome here!
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"The problems that exist in the world today cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them." -Albert Einstein
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 4:28 PM
Yes it sounds like everything i am having! and i do have the G11 XR version. i still have yet to solve the problem and i have talked to ultra tech support and basiclly what i got out of him was your unit just simply isnt Tach learning. i told him i have it to an injector wire that i can verify ACv with a meter. he then told me i must have it to the wrong injector wire which after looking i cant be because there are always only two one is a constant 12v when key is on from a relay and the other is straight from the ECM which is in a Waveform type voltage. he told me it must be a changing current which would be a "waveform" but he says it must be wrong,but it is the ONLY waveform type current for the injectors because there are only 2 wires! so idk? i left him a MSG and i got no response back. i was thinking the unit was bad but i have another unit laying around that i can swap and it does the same thing.??????
Posted By: brettwhunter
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 7:39 PM
The only suggestion AST tech support had was a six word email; "Use the manual tach learn procedure." I have attempted all of the troubleshooting and programming steps (including the brake pedal thing) with no results, and nowhere in the literature for the unit do they even mention a manual tach learning procedure.
The only other solution I have found to this problem was connecting to a coil wire, opposed to an injector wire or the tach wire at the ECM. This allegedly solved the same behavior on a Ford F150. However, if all three wires display the same AC voltage signal, this will not help your problem anymore than it has mine. I was leaning towards a replacement unit, but you say your substitute behaved the same way as the original unit.
My only other thoughts are that perhaps the AC signal is out of what the unit considers valid range (high or low). What was the voltage range you were seeing on your meter from idle-accelerated? This would not explain why the unit will not operate in "tachless" mode though, and my unit behaves the same.
The seller I purchased my unit from claims his tech can "walk me through it" on Monday; I'll post any results I have from that experience.
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"The problems that exist in the world today cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them." -Albert Einstein
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 8:10 PM
yea that would be great! they have an auto learn and quick learn procedure for Tach learning,but like you said it does the same in Tachless mode too. i hade the Tach wire hooked to the Tach wire off of the ECM originally and i was told that was the problem because it was not the correct Voltage which i do agree with because looking in my paperwork the Tach wire is either a constant 0v in off Pos. or 12v when running which wouldnt be a alternating current. so i changed it to an injector wire. like i said before there are only 2 wires each for every injector and one is a constant 12v when key is on which would not be a waveform type voltage which it "must be" for it to work properly and the other wires are the wires from the ECM to the injectors which are in a waveform type signal and still no workie! i had .8v AC at the wire while on idle and i did not check for how much on off idle becuase i just got fed up! according to AST tech support they said its not a matter off too much or too less voltage for the tach wire signal,its a matter of an alternating current which increases when the vehicle starts. Basicly if it were hooked to 12v constant when vehicle started it still should not work! at this point im lost and i just dont want to keep getting into the wiring harness over and over.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 8:14 PM
it doesnt matter how much voltage there is.it just needs to be a waveform type voltage that increases when the car starts and like u said hooking it to the coil as opposed to an injector shouldnt mean anything cause they both have the same type voltage?
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 8:18 PM
now that i think about it ...how did i get .8v because the voltage should of been changing if it were a waveform?
Posted By: brettwhunter
Date Posted: December 29, 2008 at 12:12 PM
Using a digital multimeter you will not observe the 0 crossover when it is set to read an AC signal, it will only display your peak voltage. Keep in mind that regular household AC current cycles back and forth 60 times every second, you only really need to know RMS. This information is moot however, if what you're saying about the voltage level is true. I have a valid AC signal being delivered to the unit, if the voltage level makes no difference, then there has got to be another explanation. I did receive a response from AST tech support on the manual tach learning procedure, it was as follows: "Make sure the system is connected to a tach then reset. Start the car with the key then jump the yellow and red wires on the 6-pin connector for 3 seconds. The module should click twice when you remove the jumper." I have not had opportunity to try this myself, but I will post my results when I do get the chance. Good luck, and please let me know if this works for you.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 29, 2008 at 12:26 PM
oh ok i never herd about that method yet. and according to what AST support told me the module doesnt care how much or how little voltage there is as long as its alternating and rises when the car is running.obviously i had 0v engine off and.8v AC while on idle and based on what they said i should be good,because its an alternating voltage and it increases with engine running?
Posted By: brettwhunter
Date Posted: December 29, 2008 at 9:55 PM
Yes, that is what I would assume based on the information provided. If that is the case, you would be in the exact same predicament as myself. The unit is receiving a valid AC signal, but not tach learning. Attempting the "manual learning procedure", as according to AST tech support, would be your next move as well as my own.
The following is my email correspondence with AST tech support, hope this helps! (I have removed only my personal contact info):
Make sure the system is connected to a tach then reset. Start the car with the key then jump the yellow and red wires on the 6-pin connector for 3 seconds. The module should click twice when you remove the jumper.
Thank you,
Terry Thompson
AST Technical Support Manager
Support 877-598-2100 ext 1
Sales dial ext 2
Orders dial ext 3
Warranty dial ext 4
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: "'ULTRA START'" <support@ultrastarters.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 6:45 PM
Subject: RE: Service Request Form
Terry,
WOW, what a fast response, I greatly appreciate it!
I cannot find information on the manual tach learning procedure in the installation or owner's guides. I have attempted to perform what the install guide calls a "Quick Tach Learn", where you depress the brake pedal>start the vehicle>press the program button 2-3 times within 2 seconds.
I have also attempted the troubleshooting techniques described on your webpage, but could use some clarification there. I have reset the unit and tried to relearn multiple times, and I have insured a good solid ground. The troubleshooting instructions say to check all connections (this has been done, all connections are correct and properly soldered), and if the connections are good they say to attempt jumping the ignition input to 12v source. However, the install guide only lists an ignition output. What is the pin-to-pin for this process, 12v to the #6 in the six pin connector?
If you could provide instructions on the manual learning procedure, or provide any further insight I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Brett W Hunter - EET
"The problems that exist in the world today cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them." -Albert Einstein
-----Original Message-----
From: ULTRA START [mailto:support@ultrastarters.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 7:19 PM
To:
Subject: Re: Service Request Form
Use the manual tach learn procedure.
Thank you,
Terry Thompson
AST Technical Support Manager
Support 877-598-2100 ext 1
Sales dial ext 2
Orders dial ext 3
Warranty dial ext 4
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: <support@ultrastarters.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 6:00 PM
Subject: Service Request Form
> Here is the information submitted to
> www.ultrastarters.com/form_mail/service_request_form.php from
on Saturday, December 27th, 2008 at 5:00 pm.
> ------------------------
> My Drop Down 1: Technical Support Question
>
> Company Name:
>
> First Name: Brett
>
> Last Name: Hunter
>
> Address:
>
> City: Davenport
>
> State or Prov:
>
> Zip or Postal Code:
>
> Phone Number:
>
> Comment: G11 will not see a tach signal from 05 Malibu Classic.Code > "7 flashes" in tach or tachless mode.AC tach signal (2-4 volts)
> being delivered to unit.Keyless entry and other work great.Good
> ground.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 30, 2008 at 2:58 PM
yea that method is worth a shot,but i still dont see how that would work because your forcing it manually to see a Tach signal but when not jumped and on normal operation it still wont see a signal to know when to shut the starter off because it doesnt see one now as it is?
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 30, 2008 at 4:35 PM
Now do they want you to remove those two wires out of the plug and jump them removed and not connected to the module? or just jump them as is..still in plug?
Posted By: brettwhunter
Date Posted: December 30, 2008 at 7:27 PM
You're asking the wrong person, I don't know. Honestly, I'm not sure I would trust the advice given by these AST guys. When I get a chance, I'll give this process a try and post my results.
Posted By: mtlman
Date Posted: December 30, 2008 at 7:40 PM
HAHA!! i feel the same way! i mean i didnt design the system but that kinda doesnt sound like a fix to me. but please do post your findings i would love to know how u make out
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