2008 ford focus, remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109601
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 3:25 PM
Topic: 2008 ford focus, remote start
Posted By: dcorwin822
Subject: 2008 ford focus, remote start
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 1:20 AM
Vehicle wiring diagrams anyone? I'm looking to install a RS
Replies:
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 9:45 AM
| 12 VOLT CONSTANT | BLUE/RED (+) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | STARTER | BLUE/WHITE (+) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | STARTER 2 | N/A | N/A | | | IGNITION 1 | BROWN / YELLOW (+) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | IGNITION 2 | N/A | N/A | | | IGNITION 3 | N/A | N/A | | | ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 | PURPLE / GREEN (+) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 | N/A | N/A | | | KEYSENSE | BLUE/GRAY (+) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) | N/A | N/A | | | PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) | PURPLE / WHITE (+) | LOW IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL | | | POWER LOCK | BLUE/GREEN(-) TYPE B | IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL | | | POWER UNLOCK | YELLOW/PURPLE(-)TYPE B | IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL | | | LOCK MOTOR WIRE | N/A | N/A | | | DOOR TRIGGER | N/A | | | | DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION | GRAY/PURPLE (+) | IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL | | | TRUNK RELEASE | BLUE (-) (REQUIRES RELAY) | AT RELEASE SWITCH | | | SLIDING POWER DOOR | N/A | N/A | | | HORN | BLUE/WHITE (-) | AT STEERING COLUMN HARNESS | | | TACH | NOT PURPLE OR BLUE | AT IGNITION COIL | | | WAIT TO START LIGHT | N/A | N/A | | | BRAKE | PURPLE / WHITE (+) | AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL | | | FACTORY ALARM DISARM | PURPLE / BROWN (-) | IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL | | | ANTI-THEFT | TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT | TRANSPONDER @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER |
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 4:56 PM
How am I suppose to install a remote starter in a manual tranny w/o a door trigger?
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 5:10 PM
who said theres no door trigger? nobody said there is no door trigger. i just didnt have the info for it. of course theres a door trigger! your gonna have to test for it with your DMM, which you should already be doing anyway.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 6:18 PM
FSM wire diagram for the doors. It just confuses me. I'll test and see what the voltages is for the gn-vt wire when its not sleating out and i can get under the dash. 
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 6:35 PM
https://www.components.omron.com/components/web/pdflib.nsf/0/EB5C8B538D0F639485257201007DD57D/$file/G5V-1_0607.pdf Mount that on a small pcb. splice contacts 2 and 9 in series to the gn-vt wire so when its engaged 5/6 (neg door trigger on rs) is sent to nothing but when it disengages (ie door opened) it goes to nc of grnd for a door triger . Think that will work? More over do you understand what i just said? lol
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 7:21 PM
according to your diagram, you have to pick up the door triggers at each door and diode isolate each.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: December 11, 2008 at 8:12 PM
ckeeler wrote:
according to your diagram, you have to pick up the door triggers at each door and diode isolate each.
not gonna lie but you lost me. sorry.
Posted By: phlame217
Date Posted: December 12, 2008 at 1:18 AM
A diode isolates a current in one direction to prevent feedback.
You need to tap each wire for each door, use a diode to prevent current feedback, and then tie them all into the trigger wire for the alarm.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 12, 2008 at 9:07 AM
look at the top of this page and click on the link called "diodes". it will explain what they are and how they work.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: December 12, 2008 at 10:32 AM
I learned the theory in college I'm just confused in the application here.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 12, 2008 at 10:52 AM
your diagram shows the driver side front door pin wire as GREEN/ purple, and the rear doors as green and the other side as yellow. it also shows them as negative trigger. it doesnt seem to show the front passenger side door. tie into each of those wires at each door and connect them the the door trigger wire at the alarm with a diode in each wire. face the band AWAY from the alarm.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: December 12, 2008 at 4:03 PM
ya but the wire is grounded when the door is closed and its not grounded when its open where most systems want to see a ground when its open.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 12, 2008 at 4:14 PM
you tested them and thats how they read?? if your saying that because thats how the diagram looks to show it, your reading it wrong. where it says open and closed, its not talking about the door, its talking about the circuit. have you even measured those wires with a DMM yet?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 23, 2008 at 5:41 PM
Oh just go to all the dome interior and trunk lights and diode the power (12V+) sides. CK, When did they change the colours, my lock and unlock are stil BLACK/ orange, black /green dome light is BLACK / YELLOW and trunk is BLACK/ blue.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 23, 2008 at 5:57 PM
ehh, beats me Howie. the electrics should be the same in those cars here and over there. you gonna have snow for Christmas Howie?
Posted By: vniir
Date Posted: December 25, 2008 at 1:24 PM
triger doors have positive polarity Are behind a glove compartment
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 6:38 PM
Sorry CK late getting back, ready for ironic laugh? Those colours are completely different to Euro Fords from 08!! BUT the 08/9 Maxda 3 which is a Focus in drag uses the Euro Ford colours apart from lock/unlock and a second acc. What we've been told to do is connect to dome light and diode the + feeds to all the interior and trunk lights because of the 20min sleep cycle. Yes Ford has been using open citcuit on open hood switches for some time over here, and now they use it to feed the locking circuit logic. mustardS although I think you can change the parameters on Viper door contacts to accomodate this. Done a couple of alarms and a couple of R/S + alarms on 06-7 with no problems.
Posted By: dan.mcneill
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 12:38 AM
Will the Directed 1100F Bypass work for this vehicle. I used it in my 2008 Ford Escape and it worked fine, but I was having issues using it my fiances 2008 Ford Focus, does the focus have the new PATS3, because I think that might be why...
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:03 PM
This is for a 2008 Ford Focus.
I'm thinking of using a idatalink (ads-al-ca) module with a autopage c3-rs603. This is going into a manual transmission (my personal car so I assume all liabilities) so I also picked up a DEI 689M neutral safety for manual transmissions.
Now the DEI requires a tach and door status inputs. Can I use the outputs from the idatalink to the 689m and also use the D2D to the autopage?
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:25 PM
dcorwin822 wrote:
... and also use the D2D to the autopage?
If you're wanting secure D2D: Do you have a iDataLink to D2D cable? Not unless you live in Canada and receive distributorship from AutoMobility. You will also need to flash the ADS-AL CA with the DBI protocol firmware. Note: If you have both an iDataLink and D2D cable, I can provide you with the modifications.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:46 PM
Beyond my original reply, I'm not sure there is a bus interface for the 2008 Ford Focus, with tach or door status. I'm not sure there is a bus interface for anything other than bypass, with that vehicle. Where did you get your qualification for that ADS module? Note: The iDataLink to D2D cable should be available in the US, around February.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 6:16 PM
The first step to programming a Idatalink unit is to determine wheter you hard wire or data transfer. I don't think you can do both. Why not just hardwire both? I don't trust the data tranfer, have too many issues with it...
-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 6:21 PM
Okay I can hard wire it, I have no problem with that. Now I'm just confirming what the idatalink outputs and inputs for my car will be. The website says my car is supported but not very detailed on what features will be avalible and what wont.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 7:34 PM
I pretty much summed it up, in my previous post.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 10:06 PM
i just went on the idatalink website. put in my car info and thats what it came up with. it says my car is supported.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 10:17 PM
also the focus has a mediums speed can bus.
Posted By: hydrodancer91
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 11:56 PM
the rs603 has a neutral safety wire it is BLACK/ white. so if you want to do a little testing and find the neutral safety wire in the car you wont need the dei part at all. there has also been an issue with the the c3 rs603 communicating with the data link modules via d2d. so therefor i would recommend hardwire. if you do use the direct connection then you have to cut the white wire in the d2d cable.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 09, 2009 at 12:20 AM
dcorwin822 wrote:
also the focus has a mediums speed can bus.
As I replied, there is no module released for that vehicle yet, that will interface with the bus, other than bypass.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 09, 2009 at 7:38 AM
The ADS-DL-CA is over kill for this vehicle. Just use the Solo series for this vehicle because most Ford's you can only do bypass ( PATS ) with the modules.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: January 18, 2009 at 9:00 AM
it does have pats 3 as per the shop book.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: February 05, 2009 at 5:52 PM
Hey, the door trigger's on my car go to an open circuit when the door is opened. How do I diode isolate them so i can get my 689m module to work?
Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: February 05, 2009 at 6:06 PM
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 06, 2009 at 10:57 AM
Any thought to check pin outs on engine and or gearbox management to see if there's a neutral safety switch?
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 11:46 PM
Finished the install. The 689m module's door trigger is set up to a momentary switch I have to trigger by hand. NOT by any means the way I wanted it done but it works. Once I find a reliable source on how to make a pos or neg trigger I'll be more than happy to switch it around. I tried the following circuit but had no luck with it. 
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 11:48 PM
good job word filter... blocked my image link 
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: May 08, 2009 at 5:50 PM
anyone have a idea on the door trigger pins yet? shows ground when door is closed, open circuit (neither high nor low) when door is open.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 08, 2009 at 7:01 PM
Can't remember the part number but DEI make an interface for this, incidentally on Euro Focuses (Foci?) from about 05 on we go to the dome light feed which goes neg when the doors are open, check it out to see if US versions are the same then use that but put diodes across the 12v+ feeds to all the bulbs with the bands towards the bulbs.
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: May 26, 2009 at 12:39 AM
I tried making the circuit that bigdog posted and It doesn't trigger the 689m. i'm only reading ~6.5v from the trigger wire when i have the door open??
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=102297&get=last
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: May 28, 2009 at 5:48 PM
well figured out a circuit that works for me. Using a NPN transistor ~1.47k ohm resistor and two diodes. it works like a champ.
diode isolate the tigger wires. then put the resistor on it and direct it to the base. take the neg door trigger sense wire from the 689m and put it to the collector and just wire the emitter to ground. works so far.
The only problem i have now is the RAP feature on my car. Radio stays on after I close the door for the 689m.
I'm thinking if i take the fact alarm rearm wire from the R/S and have it open the circuit on the SJB side of where i tapped into the door triggers for my transistor it should work. I'm gonna go play....
Posted By: dcorwin822
Date Posted: May 29, 2009 at 10:36 AM
Factory alarm rearm worked out just fine used that to pulse a relay that opened up the circuit before my transistor making the SJB think the doors opened.
Thanks for the help everyone that contributed.
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