2001 Dodge Ram Door Lock Problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109609
Printed Date: June 08, 2024 at 12:35 AM
Topic: 2001 Dodge Ram Door Lock Problem
Posted By: bulletchicken
Subject: 2001 Dodge Ram Door Lock Problem
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 1:10 PM
Hey Ya'll, I have been searching for a resolution to my problem for two days straight, I have searched the forums up and down and I havent quite found a solution that works. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.9 without keyless according to my build sheet. I have installed a remote start pager alarm, I have gotten everything to work except the door locks, I pulled the wiring diagram for a 2000 dodge ram to install my alarm with and everything matched that. It says my door locks are the 5 Wire setup, which I am farely new to, I have installed a few alarms with resistors and positive/negative voltage, but never used relays to do this. I wired up everything according to the 5wire diagram on this site, and I hit the door lock button on my door panel and blew the fuse and I think one or both of the relays, Now, I think I may have the wrong relay and that is where I am stuck. I went to Auto Zone and Checker Auto to get a relay and neither store could help me, they wanted specific car details and I told them I needed a spdt 40amp 12vdc auto relay and neither store had any idea..."I thought I was retarded" som I decided to try an electronic turn signal flasher relay. Are the heavy duty electronic flasher relays for turn signals the same relays? It has the 85,86,87,87A and the 30 pins. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance! 
Replies:
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 6:53 PM
its ok, you're not retarded. but it really would be best if you can find the right relays OR find a local shop that sells viper alarms and ask them if they have any lock relay packs laying around. they should because it comes with almost every alarm and you dont always have to use it. your diagram is correct for 5 wire just make sure that you have the wires from pin 30 are going to the motor side of the wire you cut, sometimes it can be hard to tell.
also you should make sure you are really dealing with a 5 wire setup and not reverse polarity. you can tell what it is by checking what the lock wires rest at (negative, or neutral) when nothing is being pressed. if they rest at negative ground then yes you have a 5-wire system. if the wires rest at neutral then you have reverse polarity. im telling you this because i got hosed while doing a dodge durango that the tech sheet said it had reverse polarity or 5 wire when it was really just positive locks but the lock switch fried before i figured that one out. moral of the story: verify your wires
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Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 7:19 PM
never go to autozones or checker parts stores. those people are minimum wage retards with a capitol R. always go to a CARQUEST or NAPA as they actually have better parts and hire people that are actual parts men and women who know something. going to an autozone or checker to find a part is like going to a flea market to look for legal advise.
Posted By: robertsc
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 8:34 PM
if your blowing fuses you probably have 30 and 87a on the relays backwards
Posted By: bulletchicken
Date Posted: December 09, 2008 at 9:26 PM
soundnsecurity wrote:
its ok, you're not retarded. but it really would be best if you can find the right relays OR find a local shop that sells viper alarms and ask them if they have any lock relay packs laying around. they should because it comes with almost every alarm and you dont always have to use it. your diagram is correct for 5 wire just make sure that you have the wires from pin 30 are going to the motor side of the wire you cut, sometimes it can be hard to tell.
also you should make sure you are really dealing with a 5 wire setup and not reverse polarity. you can tell what it is by checking what the lock wires rest at (negative, or neutral) when nothing is being pressed. if they rest at negative ground then yes you have a 5-wire system. if the wires rest at neutral then you have reverse polarity. im telling you this because i got hosed while doing a dodge durango that the tech sheet said it had reverse polarity or 5 wire when it was really just positive locks but the lock switch fried before i figured that one out. moral of the story: verify your wires
Thank you all so much for the insight! I went down to a local electronics shop and purchased a couple relays and relay wiring harness's and went back to work and soldered it all together and wow, worked exactly right the first try, I verified the switch side wires and got it working almost immediatly. I had it correct, but the turn signal relays that the retard from auto zone gave me werent correct even though they were 5pin. This makes me want to continue forward towards MECP certification, but there isnt a school that I know of in Utah for it. ------------- 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 1:28 PM
soundnsecurity wrote:
also you should make sure you are really dealing with a 5 wire setup and not reverse polarity.
These terms are usually used interchangeably. Also "neutral" doesn't have any meaning, electrically speaking, in a 12 volt DC system. I think what you meant is that the wires rest at open if they are positive trigger.
Bulletchicken, I'm rather surprised that the flasher relays didn't work with the terminals labeled as they were? Unless they have the flasher integrated in them, which would explain that.
Additionally I agree with the other posters that it's hard to tell the difference between positive relay trigger and reverse polarity just by using a meter; you have to physically interrupt the circuit by either cutting the wire or unplugging one of the switches. DEI's manuals have a good description on how to test this way; basically if one switch works with the other one unplugged, it's positive trigger. If the still-connected switch doesn't work, it's reverse polarity. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 1:48 PM
chriswallace187 wrote:
These terms are usually used interchangeably. Also "neutral" doesn't have any meaning, electrically speaking, in a 12 volt DC system. I think what you meant is that the wires rest at open if they are positive trigger.
yeah thats what i meant. sorry for any confusion, it's just the word i use. and if you are suggesting that 5-wire and reverse polarity are "interchangeable" you are wrong, even though they seem to do the same thing, they are not used the same way and are not interchangeable as a lock interface -------------
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 10, 2008 at 6:07 PM
As much as I like to argue, the12volt himself(or whoever did the work) used the terms differently when drawing the lock diagrams on this site. So you're not incorrect there. Audiovox manuals use the same terminology.
However, Directed (here's the 451M door lock relay's manual as an illustration of this) and Scytek (their Galaxy 2000 online manual, which has doorlock diagrams), as 2 examples, do use the term "reverse polarity" to describe the doorlock system we're discussing here.
To add to the confusion, the MECP Advanced Install Tech study guide, in the security section, includes both 4-wire rest-at-open and 5-wire rest-at-ground in its definition of "reverse polarity".
I'm going to offer a 2-part suggestion for doorlock terminology, for everyone on this site and in the industry, and I'm sure I'll post this elsewhere in the future.
1. The very uncommon 4-wire rest-at-open doorlock system should be referred to as such, or 4W RAO, and by no other terms.
2. 5-wire rest-at-ground doorlock systems should be referred to as that, or 5W RAG for short. "Reverse polarity" should no longer be used to refer to a specific doorlock system type.
soundnsecurity, thanks for your contribution.
bulletchicken, good work and sorry for mildly jacking your thread, though I hope I've been somewhat edifying to everyone. As always, everyone feel free to PM me with any thoughts/questions, etc. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
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