Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 97 accord ex 2 stage door unlock

Hi!

I am installing the Astra 600 in a 1997 Honda Accord EX Sedan (VTech, 4 cylinder, A/T) and am at the point where I want to connect the blue wire from the alarm door lock/unlock bundle for a 2-Stage door unlock. Per the instrucions (page 17), I have the relay and 15 amp fuse, but I am unable to determine if there is a wire under the dash that I can use for the unlock signal (blue wire). This is the wire that will be cut and the relay connected to. Per the Hanes manual, the wire should be BLACK/ Red, but I suspect that it is located in the drivers door. I would prefer not to try to route a wire through the harness to the door, but if that's the only (and/or best) way, then I will do it. Can anyone please confirm the wire color and best wire location for this setup?

Thanks!!

Scott

Power unlock - orange (-) DKP in grey plug
Power lock - BLACK/ white (-) DKP in grey plug

if you want driver priority unlock, you need to wire the relay in the door and tag the lock actuator wires.

Thank you!

The instructions call it 2-Stage Door Lock/Unlock, but I guess it is also called driver priority unlock. That is what I trying to connect. Looks like I have to take the door apart as well. Can you confirm the wire color coming at the servo connector? Any tips on where to place the relay in the door or which wire to use to power the relay?

Thanks!

Scott

the wires are located in the door, and its impossible to miss. just look for 2 wires going to the lock motor. one will be 12v and the onther will show ground(-) when the switch at the door is pressed. just power the relay with any 12v line available. wire it up like so.

since this is a negative trigger lock.

85 - DPU (driver pri unlock) wire from alarm or rs (-)
86 - constant 12v fused @ 5 amps to protect relay
87 - GROUND

CUT THE WIRE THAT CONNECTS SWITCH TO THE LOCK ACTUATOR. connect one end to each terminal
87a - wire that shows ground when switch @ door is pressed (switch side)
30 - lock motor wire (actuator or lock side)

this way you can still get priority and still control that with the door switches.

Follow the diagram given to you ahaha ! cheers

forgot to mention, usually i will place the relay higher up from the door to prevent moisture and i look for an existing bungle of wires and rip tie to down to make sure its solid and in place.

Thank You!!!

I'll post back as soon as I get everything wired and to let you know how it went.

Scott

Got the door panel apart, removed the molex and routed the Blue wire from the alarm through the molex and into the door. This took most of the day.

I got the wires hooked up but the drivers door will not unlock when I turn off the alarm. All of the doors lock when I turn on the alarm and all of the doors unlock when I turn off the alarm by pressing twice on the remote off button.

The Hanes manual shows the BLACK/ Red and Pink wires going to the driver's door actuator. These wires where found in the Door Lock Module plug.

These are the voltage measurements from the BLACK/ Red and Pink wires at the Door Lock Module before I made any connections:

            Neutral Position     Lock      Unlock
BLACK/ Red   0V    5.8V      0V
Pink        4.8V 0V        4.8V

Here is how the relay is hooked up:

85 - Blue wire from alarm door lock bundle
86 - 12v fused @ 15 amps. I am using the White wire from the Door Lock Module
87 - GROUND
87a - The BLACK/ Red wire coming from the Door Lock Module (shows 0V when you move the door switch to the unlock position).
30 - The BLACK/ Red wire going to the actuator.

Since the driver's side actuator does not unlock when I turn off the alarm, could I have the 87a and 30 switched or should I use the Pink wire?

Thanks!!
Scott

Scott,

What you actually have there are 2 wires peculiar to Hondas. They switch the power locks when the driver's lock is manually moved up and down; however neither one is what you need to connect to in order to have 2-stage unlocking.

I don't have the exact color of the driver's unlock motor wire; perhaps someone can post it who's got access to technical info at the moment.(I do know the later models were yellow or YELLOW /GREEN).

You can find that wire(it should be in the rubber boot full of wires that goes into the door) by using your meter; it will show 12V when pressing the switch to "unlock" and 0V otherwise. Once you've got the suspected wire, cut it. This should result in the driver's door no longer locking or unlocking with the switch, and all other doors continuing to work.

Also to elaborate on what tedmond's said - you'll be using the wire from your alarm that's simply marked "(-) unlock" in order to activate this relay. The "2nd unlock" wire will go to the "orange (-) unlock DKP gray plug" on the car.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hi!

Thank you for the information. I checked the wires again at the factory door lock module and found a Yellow/Red wire that has 12V when in "unlock", 0V in "neutral" and 1.1V in "lock". There is also a WHITE/ Red wire at the module that has the opposite measurements, 1.1V = "unlock", 0V = "neutral" and 12V = "lock". These two wires are also heaver gauge than the others that go to the actuator. I cut the Yellow/Red wire and all of the door locks would not work, so that one can't be it. I have attached the wiring diagram for 2 Stage Door Locks from the instruction manual:

posted_image

I have the relay wired as shown and also tried 87 to Ground with no luck. No other wire I found at the factory module has 12V in "unlock" and 0V in "lock". Not really sure what else to try. Any suggestons???

Scott

ok lemme try, i've never done priority locking on this vehicle, but i've done other hondas, if you take the actuator wire from the control module it won't work, the only wires bein attached there are the lock, and second unlock trigger wires, then take the unlock wire from the alarm into the driver door panel, there are normally five wires leading to the actuator, two being larger gauge than the other three, those two will be the lock/unlock motor wires, cut the unlock wire, and connect as you have the relay above, except ground terminal 87a, if you have central lockin you'll have to disable this also, the other three wires, one should be black, the other two are the central lock trigger wires, just cut them and isolate them, hope i can help.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

More info to consider:

I'm looking at a Haynes manual for the '90-'93 Accord which also lists the unlock motor as being yellow/red. This shows no separate control, even with keyless entry.

If that's the case for yours as well, you'll be able to connect to yellow/red for priority unlocking. However, you'll have to cut and connect to that wire at some point between the driver's door and the splice with the wire to the other doors. The easiest place to do this would be in the rubber boot going into the driver's door, or between there and the fusebox/junction block where the wires from the driver's door plug in to (if they in fact do this, again I've only worked on later model Accords).

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hi!

Thank you for the info. The wire setup you described appears just like mine. I am not sure what central locking is but this is how the door locks work on my car (stock).....all of the doors either lock or unlock with the exception that unlocking the driver's door, with the key from the outside, does not unlock the other doors. Using the key on the passenger side will unlock all of the doors.

I put the wires back together at the door lock module. Here is a pic of the wires going to the driver's door actuator. The two thicker wires have the same voltages as from the module. It's a little hard to see the colors of the wires, but they are just as you indicated.

posted_image

Per your previous posts, are these the connections to the relay?

86 = +12V (White wire at module)

87 = +12V (White wire at module)

85 = alarm (-) trigger (Blue wire from alarm)

87A = Ground

30 = Yellow/Red (cut at door molex or rubber boot or before fuse box and connect door side to relay)

Also cut the two signal wires at the location shown in the picture (going to the actuator)?

Do I just tape the other end of the cut Yellow/Red wire or does this get connected to something?

I hope I understood you correctly and I am sorry if I missed anything.

Your help is greatly appreciated!!

Scott

smorton, you're right on all but two things in your most recent post.

1. 87a will go to the other side of the cut yellow/red wire, not to ground.

2. The signal wires do not need to be cut - I believe the previous poster was under the assumption that your manual lock rod, when moved to the "unlock" position, would then cause the power locks to unlock the other doors. This isn't the case(assuming your car is like other Hondas I've done where manually moving the driver's doorlock will lock, but not unlock, the rest of the doors).

You can and probably should reconnect those signal wires.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

OK, I think I got it.

86 = +12V (White wire at module)

87 = +12V (White wire at module)

85 = alarm (-) trigger (Blue wire from alarm)

87A = Yellow/Red (cut at door molex and connect car side to relay)

30 = Yellow/Red (cut at door molex and connect door side to relay)

And I will not cut any signal wires. I will cut only the Yellow/Red wire at the door molex. I plan on taking the molex apart and cutting the wire "on the inside of the door" part of the molex. Since I already ran the alarm (-) signal wire through the molex, I am now very familar with it's removal (here's my trick: remove the door stay - the piece that goes from the door to the car and keeps the car door from opening any farther. Then the door can swing back far enough to easily get to the molex.)

Tomorrow, I will post back with the results.

Thank you!!

Scott

sorry for the mistake guys, but like i said i've never done priority locking or any type of locking in that particular vehicle as a matter of fact, i'm from the carribean so my honda accords may differ a little to your models, but i think i did pretty good on the advice, for someone who never worked on yor model, don't ya think chris.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

t&t tech, you were right on, assuming that your Caribbean Accords are anything like the UK cars with central locking that Howie II always complains about, or like my GTO's nightmare power locks that I've mentioned in several threads.

Though I'm really not sure where you're getting that 87a of the relay should go to ground - this would render the factory lock switching unable to ever operate the driver's doorlock.

Also, tedmond's post was mistaken in saying that the actuators would be ground switched(since the lock switch/key cylinder wires were). U.S. car doorlock actuators are almost universally rest-at-ground systems which switch one wire to 12V when locking/unlocking.

Additionally, if chriswallace187 could make or scan images with a modicum of skill, he wouldn't have to type so dang much and might end up confusing people a bit less.

One last thing to elaborate - please don't think I'm saying anything about anyone personally who's posted a fact wrong. Everyone, myself included, has done it from time to time.

I only start calling people idiots when (like happened a few months ago, Tedmond may remember) they say that I'm a moron and the 12volt should ban me, all because they didn't use enough punctuation to make it clear whether they were asking a question and making a statement(and I asked them which it was).

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

i remeber something along those lines. its not your fault ppl cant type. but sorry about the misleading information. trying to refresh my memory on these things.

It's all good ted...I did an '08 Accord a few weeks ago that refreshed my memory that every time I do an Accord with OEM security I ought to be selling my cust. an RS with keyless and using both an XK05 and XK01.

That is, since Honda's engineers have included transponder keys for 10 years and it hasn't occurred to them "Hey, maybe we could have the ignition coupled with a valid transponder code disarm the alarm like every other manufacturer does!"

Also now that I typed this I realize the '08-up Accord uses an XK07 for locks/alarm, not an XK01.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hi!

I am back from work and got looking around for that Yellow/Red wire on the inside of the car. I am not really fond of using the Yellow/Red wire at the molex (on the inside of the door), so I started looking around the fuse box and found a Yellow/Red wire with the same voltages as in the door. I also found a +12V wire next to it (Blue). I can not tell for sure if this location will work. I can not completely trace the wire back to the door and want to be sure before I cut this wire. Has anyone used this location for cutting the Yellow/Red wire for priority unlock? I also do not know if the Blue wire I found (+12V) is a constant +12V or not. I would prefer to keep the connections and relay inside the car where they are better protected from the elements.

posted_image

.I am also trying to document everything I do here so that it may help others with the same year and make car. Please forgive me if I seem to repeat some information or ask twice.

Thanks!!

Scott

Scott,

The easiest way to verify would be to unplug that connector and operate the passenger door lock switch. If all locks except the driver's door work, that's the yellow/red you need to cut and wire into.

Also as far as the blue wire goes - I can't think of any reason that that a plug with the wires going to the driver's door would have constant power. They didn't start using door modules on the Accord until the '98 redesign, the power lock switch is negative, and the power windows/mirrors are ignition switched.

I would suggest sticking with that original white wire for your constant power.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

i was mistaken about the relay part and groundin pin 87, my bad,

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

No problem. Don't worry about it.

I got the door locks working! I was worried about cutting another wire just to check it, so I spent some time figuring out how to take just one wire out of those connectors. Once I figured this out, I pulled out the Yellow/Red wire going to the door actuator (the connector with the 5 wires) and Bingo! The driver's door actuator did not work when all the others did. I used this wire (going to the actuator) and soldered everything up to the relay. Thank you for your help in getting this figured out. This has been a great learning experience and makes me appreciate what you do, even more. Now on to wire the trunk release.

Here's some pics:

Yellow/Red wire soldered to extension that goes to relay pin 30.

posted_image

Relay location.

posted_image

Driver's door with finished connections.

posted_image

Sorry the pics are not that great and the 50K file size forum limit doesn't help. But I hope you get the general idea. Here the final relay connections.

86 = +12V (White wire at module)

87 = +12V (White wire at module)

85 = alarm (-) trigger (Blue wire from alarm)

87A = Yellow/Red (cut at door connector that leads AWAY from the actuator)

30 = Yellow/Red (cut at door connector that leads TO the actuator)

I have the plastic removed from the door because the next step, after I get the alarm finished, is to do some soundproofing.

Thank you again!

Scott